A Wily (Sam) Fox Captures WEHO with The Henry

(Gerry Furth-Sides) The Henry is known for being one of the “best neighborhood restaurants” in Phoenix.   “Neighborhood” also fits creator Sam Fox’s shiny, big 100,000 sq.ft (!) newest incarnation if you think of chic West Hollywood “neighborhood” as “neighborhood”.   The remodel of the huge space took years to complete with a beckoning wrap-around veranda,  as visible to drivers passing by as the Ivy Porch across the way.

The enormous Fox Concepts restaurant looks to become a premier player, if not a destination dining choice, in the leafy section of Robertson Boulevard where Cecconi’s and Lisa Vanderpump rule along with the Ivy.  You don’t see cooks there in a high energy, gleaming performance kitchen with lots of dramatic company in lively servers and runners striding back and forth through three levels of seating.  Even the bartenders are in on the action.

The custom-made lining the front window features a carefully curated wine list, craft beers, homemade sodas and tonics and a bevy of signature cocktails.  The second generation restaurant owner, the Fox, hails from the Tucson desert so naturally, a signature margarita comes first.  Casamigos Blanco shines through in The Almost Naked Margarita with lime, Cointreau, passoã liqueur and bar spoon honey.

Cocktails are international as well.  Jane’s Aperol Spritz and the Classic Boulevardier are joined by versions of a Moscow Mule and Southern bourbon.  The  Fig & Ginger Mule on the left is prepared with hangar one vodka, figenza fig vodka, lime, and pomegranate.  On the right is a Southern City Mischief with brown-butter washed Bulleit bourbon, house marmalade and pressed orange.

Ethnic touches punctuate the menu, explained as “eclectic American,” with an emphasis on chopped salads, rotisserie items plus upscale bistro steaks and fish.  The Spring Vegetable Crudité appetizer features a star of fresh local vegetables topped with whipped tahini and orange Aleppo pepper vinaigrette

If you missed a buzz-worthy item among the appetizers, never fear.  It may just be in an entree you fancy.  Ora King Salmon features the striped Chioggia Beet along with toasted grains with sprigs of Sausalito springs cress and macron almond pesto.  The beets can also be ordered as a side or an appetizer.

Short Rib is given the Asian treatment in translucent Short Rib Potstickers with toasted sesame and mizuna ponzu.   The entree version has more of an English and Italian flair in the Short Rib & English Pea Ravioli with horseradish cream, arugula, parmigiana reggiano (below).

Middle Eastern flavors are subtle in this Grilled Halloumi salad with cauliflower, cucumber, heirloom tomato, dried olive, pickled pepper, chickpea, and tahini, dressed with an oregano vinaigrette.

American classics like steaks, seafood, and sandwiches also receive a little bit of the ethnic touch in Jidori (Japanese) Half Chicken with umami sauce and charred lemon.  The Rotisserie French Dip gets Swiss Emmental cheese (which actually means Swiss cheese), horseradish aioli, charred onion, and jus.

Desserts are sophisticated presentations of homey, comfort food treats, like Peanut Butter Moelleux (chocolate cake, salted peanut, caramel, peanut butter gelato) and Vegan Coconut & Pineapple Trifle.  I really want the All-Clad little pot!

A gourmet coffee menu and fresh-pressed juice bar, along with a great cocktail bar, and the second bar underneath a TV screen on one wall,  synch up perfectly to the chic WeHo area.  The banquettes lining the wall transform the center dining area into theatre again.

The servers were eager to tell their story of Fox Concepts going back a few years.  But the story goes much farther back that for me as it turns out.  “Oh my,” as my stepmother would say.   I thought the name sounded familiar.  After my parents retired to Tucson,  I visited regularly when I was on TV tours.  Sam Fox’s WILDFLOWER restaurant was just opening the last time I was there — billed as the “new, hot” place to go.  The perky wildflower logo alone was a draw.  We, of course, went – with NBC-TV (4) show host, Lupita Murillo.  We loved the upbeat welcoming, casual feel.  And I’m happy to say, we had the same happy feeling here at The Henry, too.

The Henry Restaurant, 120 N Robertson Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048, (424) 204-1595, open 11:30 – 10 PM //thehenryrestaurant.com

To Read about Sam Fox, please see:

//bloguettes.com/sam-fox-genius-behind-fox-restaurant-concepts/