Mastermind Chef Danny Elmaleh’s Moroccan-Japanese Heritage

(photo courtesy of sbe) Second generation Chef Danny Elmaleh,

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Culinary mastermind, Chef Danny Elmaleh, shines with his award-winning sharable middle eastern plates at the third award-winning  Cleo location in Los Angeles, by sbe.  Every refined Japanese-Moroccan dish makes a statement, yet feels effortless and satisfying.

Elmaleh’s interest in cross-cultural cuisine was first inspired by his experience growing up with a Moroccan father and Japanese mother. He trained at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America in New York and began his career at Jean Moulin in Japan. He went on to work in the kitchens of Ristorante Giannino in Milan and Melisse and Lemon Moon in Los Angeles. In 2006, Elmaleh opened his own restaurant, Celadon, and was dubbed a Rising Star Chef by StarChefs.com the following year. At Celadon, he met Katsuya Uechi and their relationship led him to his current role at sbe.

(clockwise starting at 1) Laffa bread, Babaganoush, lavash slabs and tuna tartare, shaved brussels sprouts, grilled octopus).

Chef Elmaleh’s interest in cross-cultural cuisine was first inspired by his experience growing up with a Moroccan father and Japanese mother.

The chef’s delicate Japanese hand combined with hearty middle eastern flavors made SBE restaurant fans of us in one meal. Chef Elmaleh details how this works when he does a new menu, “The new dishes on this menu, from our duck matzo ball soup to our meatball tagine (served only at night) are directly inspired by my life, my heritage and the rich flavors of the Mediterranean and the Middle East. We’ve seen a great response from our restaurants where the new menu is live.”

Surprising far east-middle east fusion of ethereal shaved celery on the Grilled Octopus with smoked paprika, lebaheh, grilled baby potato. ($16)

A Chef Elmaleh’s childhood favorite,that he cooked in his father’s Haifa restaurant, for example,  is the stand-out Duck Matzo Ball Soup with fresh pasta, confit duck, consommé broth, fresh herbs and lime ($9).

Duck Matzo Ball Soup with fresh pasta, confit duck, consommé broth, a favorite from Danny’s family restaurant in Haifa, Israel.  Below, fresh herbs and lime for personal adds to the soup. ($14)

We were told that the food is the neighborhood customer draw in the 6,000 sq. foot Cleo, with posh middle eastern decor, even with a bespoke cocktail bar ($15),  and a vertical, compact wine list.

So this is a gutsy move for a hotel restaurant, usually aiming its cuisine at a common denominator crowd.  Katsuya, the jam-packed-at- all- hours, only non-sbe version outside of Studio City and Encino is on the next block.

The gleaming Cleo kitchen viewed from the pass through.  (below) Middle eastern spices on the wall surround the kitchen passthrough.

Could it only have been a decade ago that Micah Wexler’s similar small plate Mediterranean restaurant, the chic Mezze, failed.

Elmaleh’s work also honors the best of his associations with Los Angeles masters, French Josiah Citrin and Japanese Katsuya Uechi. (see below).  Chef Danny worked in Josiah  Citrin’s venerated Melisse and Lemon Moon in Los Angeles.  In 2006, Elmaleh opened his own highly acclaimed restaurant, Celadon.  He met Katsuya Uechi there and their relationship led him to his current role at sbe.

Master of the French Technique, French-American Chef Josiah Citrin

Katsuya Uechi of Katsuya fame. Katsuya is so popular there are packages restaurant, two blocks away from each other.

Cleo is a major piece of CEO Daniel del Olmo’s international strategy as new CEO of Disruptive Restaurant Group, a subsidiary of sbe. His plan is to plant and grow both upscale brands like Katsuya and Cleo, and their casual Umami  Burger chain (currently licensing 74 restaurants and 42 lounges).  Chef Elmaleh, in fact,  was in the middle east at a business meeting the day we visited Cleo.

//(www.sbe.com) Cleo Third Street, 8384 W. 3rd Street, Los Angeles, CA  90048, (323) 579-1600.  L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, 424-888-7818.