Startling Ethnic-Inspired Commerson Defines the New California Coastal

(Gerry Furth-Sides) The international-goes-California Coastal news about Commerson restaurant is that while it is inexplicably named after a French explorer, brilliant young Hong Kong owner, Raymond Eng, happily encourages new Executive Chef Sal Garcia to add his own inspired ethnic touches to a superb menu of appealing gourmet classics he honed at Wolfgang Puck catering.  Meanwhile, new Manager Brandon grew up in Simi Valley.

We have our ten-point checklist of a must-try (and go back) restaurant and the two marks that Commerson doesn’t hit are being taken care of now (soften the room’s look and sound  with plants, maybe a rug).  That’s the kind of on-site owner management you can expect from Raymond Eng.    Add unexpected genuine hospitality to the food and come up with a memorable dining experience that instills  lingering good feelings.  So don’t miss this hidden treasure practically slid under a brand new loft high-rise in the midst of the Metro Purple Line Extension construction that we’ve driven right by so many times.

Check: Dishes that jump out at you on the menu:  We started our Commersion experience with brunch, not a meal we often do, turn out to have so many choices that also work for any meal it was a challenge to choose.  Prices are relatively high but portions are very generous to make up for this.  Brunch on the weekend with bottomless Bellinis and mimosas along with one food item from the menu for $35 per person.

French Toast ($15) is prepared with the rich flavors of honey chestnuts, crusoe rum butter, chantilly cream, with vanilla-poached pears on the plate. Let’s analysis these waffles, so satisfying they will convert a paleo like me to carbs seduced already by the ingredients that make it up.

The CRUSOE rum is in the butter!  Inspired by the legendary Robinson Crusoe “a first class environmentalist, ” We start with CRUSOE organic rum is a locally produced modern take on a classic spirit made from organic, fair trade sugarcane which has developed flavor and aroma at its own pace, not hurried along by chemicals.  ThisCRUSOE spiced process elevates an already great tasting rum that helps keep land and water clean, far above the typical vanilla + sugar profile of ordinary spiced rums in a bubble of spices “cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, clove, vanilla” coupled with orange zest and molasses. For every bottle of CRUSOE sold, non-profit partner,  CHARITY:WATER, provides one month of clean water for people in need around the world by building and maintaining wells.

Two sunny side up eggs smile up from Pork Belly Toast ($16) piquillo peppers, cherry tomatoes, confit fennel (!), laced together with tomato marmalade.

Chef Garcia’s signature Chilaquiles ($17), crispy, tangy, spicy and creamy all at the same time,  feature housemade chilaquiles, guajillo chiles, quest fresco, red onion, cilantro, guacamole and two fried eggs, as tasty as it is colorful.  It is a dish that allows the chef’s Oaxacan background to shine with housemade Chilaquiles—strips or pieces of corn tortillas fried and topped with (tomatillo-based) salsa, cheese, cream, and sliced raw onion— that transform into gourmet the dish’s humble origins are as a creative morning-after use for stale tortillas.

Commerson  is the sort of place where conversations lead to discoveries, and one of them was Chef Garcia, who hails from the “heart of Mezcal” country, Oaxaca, sharing his “tobala”treasure of Mezcal Ojo de Agua with us.  Enthusiastic manager, Brandon, promised he would let us know when a shipment of special mezcals arrived and it is now.

Our well-informed server, Harper, was delighted to help with the  eclectic, reasonably priced wine list. We started off with a The gin and tonic on tap, made with house-made tonic, juniper berries, citrus peels, rose blossoms and soda water, as much of a middle-eastern and spanish inspired pick-me-up on a rainy winter day as it would  refreshing and ideal drink when it’s hot outside.   Harper chose a pleasing Ferraton Per & fils Samorens Cotes du Rhone  ($14) from France to pair with our strong meat and bacon  dishes.

Pastry chef Elizabeth Sencion’s adds her  homemade Creamy, rich Creamcheese ice cream to the strawberry shortcake.   A banana bread pudding is also offered at brunch

Happy hour, Tuesday through Sunday from 5 to 7 p.m., Commerson offers discounts on food and beverages. Fresh oysters are $8 for 5. Other options include a fried chicken sandwich, grass-fed cheeseburger, spaghetti bolognese for $8 and a Denver cut Australian wagyu for $15.

Who would think that this cavernous space with such a muscular feel with white walls, blonde wood simple chairs  and metal tables would encourage such happy dining.  The room when we were there was filled with groups of ladies, couples, single customers at the bar and families with children of all ages. Apparently penlights and flickering votive candles on the tables are enough to add a touch of romance even to Valentine’s Day or the Oscars coming up.

Nancy Silverton’s Campanile began the LaBrea a generation ago, long replaced with the booming Republique.   Commerson Restaurant book-ends the neighborhood trendy, boutique-filled long street.  788 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, (323)813-3000.