Pinot Grigio’s Stars at the “2019 Simply Italian Great Wines” U.S. Tour

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Italians are intense about their wines.  At the 2019 Simply Italian Great Wines U.S. Tour that recently whooshed through town last month, we were at the first seminar bright and early, eager to learn more about Pinot Grigio as a wine we already love and respect. Yet proud seminar leader first quizzed us to be absolutely certain we would never think of it as “neutral,” a description  apparently not  very ceremoniously pinned onto it by restaurants.

The day for trade and the media was sponsored by the new Consorzio Tutela Vini D.O.C. delle Venezie, representing an appellation formed in 2017. It is the largest in Italy.  Back-to-back seminars, crammed with information and tastings by producers who had flown over from Italy,  literally filled almost every hour in alternate rooms so that one could be set up while the other was filled.  It proved a contrast to the more leisurely day-long experience with Spanish wines and a food tasting to split the day,

Laura Donadoni, was lead speaker,  with Nazareno Vicenzi of the Consorzio.    In typical Italian fashion, Signora Donadoni apologized many times for her flawless English and lyrical accent.

And it was worth it!  Delle Venezie,the biggest Pinot Grigio producing area in Italy and the world, has the perfect climate for it. It incorporates three territories, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Trentino and Veneto, located between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea.   Consorzio rules include limiting production to improve quality. The wines must be 85% Pinot Grigio, with the remaining 15 % composed of approved non-aromatic grapes.

The Italian style of Pinot Grigio is high in acidity and minerality but lower in tropical fruit. “The level of acidity and freshness set it apart,” Signora Donadoni.  Prices for the dewy, crisp Pinot Grigios also make it very affordable for everyday and party drinking.

The Pinot Grigio grape thrives in a cool, temperate climate and not in hot areas, so wines produced in warm areas are not typical, Donadoni said.   This is why Italian wines are so alive and fresh French Pinot Grigio, ,we know as Pinot Gris, is harvested later.   Many, including myself, find them not as lively and learned at the seminar that this is because they are more similar to a Chardonnay.

Italy grows the most Pinot Grigio in the world (43%) followed by the United States (15%). The USA is also the largest export market for Italian Pinot Grigio (37%). The wine is so popular that it is grown almost everywhere, even in the small country of  Moldavia (4%).

Kris Pinot Grigio delle Venezie D.O.C. 2018, from Kris Winery, producer of quality Pinot Grigio since 1993. Veneto fruit provides the delicate floral notes and the classic almond finish so typical of this region. Grapes sourced from the southwest-facing slopes of the village of Montagna in Alto Adige receive ample sun and contribute ripe yet fresh citrus and pear fruit.  The wine is dry, with a citrusy nose and bright acidity. It aged several months in stainless steel before bottling.

Voga Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie D.O.C. 2018 produced byEnoitalia S.P.A., the largest privately owned winery in Italy. It’s delicate in the mouth and with hints of ripe peaches, apples and vegetables. Serve it with pasta, white meat and fresh cheeses.

Ai Palazzi Dorsoduro Pinot Grigio delle Venezie D.O.C. 2018,from Masottina winery. The wine was  fermented with select yeasts in steel tanks for 6 months, followed by 3 months in the bottle. It’s complex, with layers of flavor, and can go with richer foods.

Kroger Pinot Grigio delle Venezie D.O.C. 2018, from Cantina di La-Vis e Valle di Cembra, S.C.A. Grown by a cooperative in the Adige Valley, it’s made from 100% Pinot Grigio. The production is small, just 8,000 bottles a year.

Cadis Pinot Grigio delle Venezie D.O.C. 2018, a more ripe style of wine from a hillside vineyard. Nice with risotto, grilled fish and sushi. The winery, Cantina di Soave S.A.C., was founded in 1898.

Ecco Domani Pinot Grigio delle Venezie D.O.C.2018, a delicate wine more on the floral side, good to serve with lighter dishes including fish, eggs, pasta with vegetables and white meats. This wine blends in 5% Chardonnay. The winery is Nosio S.P.A.

Villa San Martino Pinot Grigio delle Venezie D.O.C. 2018, from the winery Cantina di Bertiolo S.P.A. As you taste it, think of grapefruit, white peaches and aromatic herbs. It’s a good choice for Asian dishes.

Pinot Grigio delle Venezie D.O.C. 2018, from Bidoli winery. This wine has a delicate pinkish color and the tactile sensation of a rosé wine. It can accompany pizza and other tomato dishes that don’t usually go with white wines.