Chef Danny Elmaleh’s International Flair at Johnny’s Pastrami Adams

(Gerry Furth-Sides) You might find Second Generation, new Chef-owner Danny Elmaleh behind the stove at Johnny’s Pastrami, the historic pastrami stand on Adams Boulevard, just east of Crenshaw.  He re-opened this summer with the takeaway stand and outdoor seating areas in what looks to be a former parking lot.

His food is just superb and straightforward and filled with bold international flavors. Chef Danny Elmaleh’s half pastrami sandwich, slaw and pickle makes a full meal from Johnny’s Pastrami Adams.  There is not a lot to say about Chef Elmaleh’s straightforward pastrami “burnt ends” except that they are succulent, perfectly seasoned and lush.

Is is like the Johnny Pastrami’s that was there before (like the one on Sepulveda at Washington Boulevard)?  No.  We love those places about once a year or less because it is so salty one sandwich is good for about eight glasses of water intake.

The only straightforward part of Chef Elmalah’s story is that like  more and more other high -end restaurant chefs, Chef Elmalah,  turned his hand from white tablecloth to more homey fare.  Other than that, during his stay at CLEO, he was involved withs be restaurants all over the world with three in Los Angeles, one of the three usually closed for “remodeling” or just plain closed.

Phone numbers, hours and menus seem to be in permanent flux.   (in the case of Johnny Pastrami the GOOGLE MAP still says it is permanently closed. When we asked about this on Instagram, the answer was a good-natured “we haven’t gotten around to changing this yet.”)

This is also the case with the chef’s family’s cafe, Mizlala, in Sherman Oaks, which his wife manages, and then a smaller, even more casual Mizlala on Adams Street that is more patio than restaurant with the cafeteria style format ringing the open kitchen and branches so low outside you have to duck with your tray to avoid them.  No one seems to mind.

A bar and indoor seating area are in the works by property designer, Matt Winter of M. Winter Designs.

Elmaleh’s work honors the best of his associations with Los Angeles masters, French Josiah Citrin and Japanese Katsuya Uechi.

Chef Elmaleh’s interest in cross-cultural cuisine was first inspired by his experience growing up with a Moroccan father and Japanese mother.  The chef’s delicate Japanese hand combined with hearty middle eastern flavors made SBE restaurant fans of us in one meal.

Chef Elmaleh trained at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America in New York and began his career at Jean Moulin in Japan, then worked in the kitchens of Ristorante Giannino in Milan.  The classics served Chef Elmaleh well in his first sbe stint in their flashy, two-story, shooting star popular Mercato di Vetro, defunct after two years.  His memorable bone marrow with oxtail marmalade spread was so lush I could not eat another for a year.

Johnny’s Pastrami. 4331 W. Adams Blvd., Los Angeles.