Global Comfort Food Elevates Clubby Wolfsglen

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Restaurants as beloved gathering places once defined neighborhoods, like the Raincheck and Rainbow in West Hollywood. Wolfsglen, blocks from UCLA, is reviving this trend in the once vibrant Westwood.

Once home to the beloved Moustache Cafe, and a walk away from Alice’s Restaurant and Tannino’s, Wolfsglen is historic in another way. Its name honors former state senator and pioneer rancher, John Wolfskill, who played a prominent role in the development of Westwood Village.

Easing into the bottom floor of a historic two-story building developed in the 1930s, Wolfsglen spreads out over two storefronts, one for events and one with a bar and loft for private private parties. Soaring open beam ceilings, an organic feel with planters dividing the seating areas and al fresco dining lend a feeling of endless space.

Chef Fidel Guzman offers an elevated global comfort food seasonal menu from a large, bustling kitchen. The seasonal menu starts with fresh ingredients with pasta and breads made in-house. So we weren’t surprised to learn that Chef Guzman’s pedigree includes in-depth experience with two of our favorite chefs: Hugo Molina at Parkway Grill and Danny Elmaleh of Mediterranean-inspired Mizlala, Cleo and international Disruptive Restaurant Group portfolio..

Chef Elmaleh’s influence was first apparent in the Bone Marrow & Wagyu Pastrami. Grain mustard threaded its way through capers, shallots and mushrooms. An adventuresome yet precise presentation, bursting with flavor and texture, all offset with the homemade sourdough bread served with it.

The middle eastern influenced Falafel, Brown Butter Labneh and the Hummus with chili crisps grabbed our attention on the menu. Each of the classics has a twist to update them, such as the brown butter and the chili crisps. These are happily offered at lunch and dinner.

Burrata with grilled and flambé peaches, Esquites, Mushroom Arancini, Shrimp Toast, Steak Tartare and  Shawarma are offered at dinnertime and are next on our list!

Labneh is already a richer version of the richest yogurt. Wolfsglen’s Brown Butter Labneh dotted with feta cheese served with warm housemade pita or GF crudités adds honey to the mix and is an inspired match to the warm pita made in-house.

It would be impossible to choose between Chef Guzman’s Brown Butter Labneh and Hummus with chili crisps and the best olive oil so we ordered both. And both of Chef Guzman’s inspired dishes are generous enough for sharing as an appetizer to to accompany drinks.

Chef Guzman’s Bolognese mafaldine is braised for seven hours.  This pasta is known for its wide ribbon shape with ruffled edges, and is made of talian imported durum wheat semolina, pasteurized eggs. Mafaldine, so the story goes, originated in Naples in the early 20th century. Its name honors Princess Mafalda of Savoy. (So these fancy ribbons are also called “little queens.”

Handmade Pastas are chosen and handled with care and heart. Other pasta dishes at Wolfsglen include Rigatoni Diavola and Cacio e Pepe.

Entrées almost to an item include one intriguing twist so that you want to try them all. For example, the Pan Roasted Pork Chop has a togarashi-whiskey glaze. Steak Frites is dressed up with an in-house beef jus. Roast Chicken features aji verde and pea tendrils, Seared Salmon has a unique pineapple ginger glaze and miso potato purée. Seared Striped Bass arrives in its bed of coconut broth. Cauliflower Steak is elevated and transformed into a tempting global dish with curry and raisin chutney.

The Wolfsalen Burger layered with candied bacon and arugula with spicy aioli and perfect shoestring potatoes, skin on, needs only its picture to win over a diner. And when you ask for rare medium, you get rare medium. See the photo below.

 “Our goal is to welcome destination diners while we make this a neighborhood place for regulars, says Samuel Espinoza, General Manager. Espinoza uses all of his background experience in both restaurants and entertainment to make this happen.

“We have music to suit every age taste, live entertainment plus a new sports viewing opportunity for Monday night football and , a lively bar and the best food,” he continued. ” Guests of any age feel welcome here. This goes from from families to college kids, 40 year olds on a date or after a date, and an older crowd that comes in earlier for lunch or dinner.

Wolfsglen’s bar program, originally created by Fernanda Hay, and now overseen by Bar Manager Edward Ruiz, offers a diverse range of perfectly balanced and playful cocktails and signature creations 

The restaurant and entertainment spot is “the brainchild” of new hospitality team CFO Mark Garcia, Director of Operations Fernanda Hay, General Manager Sammy Espinoza, Chef Fidel Guzman, Sous Chef & Pastry Chef Moriah Castañeda, and Bar Manager Edward Ruiz.

Wolfsglen adds up to more than the sum of all its many parts that include history, culture, and cuisine, just as Westwood’s most popular places have in the past.  We wish them all the luck in reviving Westwood, and we’ll be back!

Wolfsglen, 1071 Glendon Ave., L.A. 90024. For more information about Wolfsglen, hours and special events about Wolfsglen or to make reservations, call 310.208.1071 directly or visit www.Wolfsglen.com.