Lum-Ka-Naad’s Sublime Off-the-Menu Dishes

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Lum-Ka-Naad, fittingly translates into “delicious,” a popular expression to honor cooks in Northern Thailand. It’s no surprise that despite their out-of-the way Northridge location husband and wife team, owner Alex and chef Ooi Sonbalee celebrate the restaurant’s 19th anniversary this year, and the fourth anniversary of their newer Encino location.

Inviting, softly lit Lum-Ka-Naad never has empty seats even between meals. A lovingly researched menu (160 items!) of affordable, shareable items is organized into categories by the type of dish and region – Alex hails from famous Chiang Mai in the upper north or Lanna Thai, and Ooi from Krabiin the south.

Ironically, Alex totally honored us with an off-the-menu feast. When we arrived, the menu ticket was already in the kitchen and vibrant Duck Penang Curry soon on the counter. Each glorious dish had one of my favorite ingredients.

Very special Duck Panang Curry arrived next. It is unusual because Asian versions of duck usually brings to mind “Peking Duck.” And it is also a more intense, richer, sweeter and thicker version of Red Curry, but more mellow and less “hot.” This is because of the coconut milk, plus the roasted ground peanuts in the sauce, making it a bit nuttier. In it, along with namesake curry paste, galangal, lemon grass, shallots, chili, garlic, shrimp paste, and, of course, the duck!

Fried Frog Legs with Thai Black Pepper, rarely seen on menus these days and one of our favorites. The crispy, seasoned perfectly prepared are the focus of this dish. Frog legs are usually served in Kang Kai, a roasted sticky-rice based soup.

Chef Ooi’s Fish in the Jungle matched its “wild”name. In it, seabream was combined with mung beans, fish sauce and chili with mint. The picture says it all.

Spicy Pork with Sator Beans take on the classic flavors of black pepper, garlic and shallots, and also turmeric, which makes it stand out. As in all Thai dishes, the sweet-salty balance alone makes it addictive.

Nam Kao Todd, a dish of crunchy rice and sour pork sausage, is special because the sausage is made in-house. It is a customer favorite listed at number 10 on the menu reads: “Crunchy rice salad tossed with sour pork sausage (Nam), roasted peanuts, shredded ginger, shallots and green onion, cilantro in a lime dressing.”

When the restaurant opened, the name drew quizzical looks to non-Thais. Today Lum-Ka-Naad is on everyone’s top ten Thai restaurant lists, even in its out of the way address. Why this Northridge location?  “It was the least expensive,” laughs Alex, always forthcoming.

From the first time I met Alex on assignment, I was impressed by this candor, even more by his resilience and sense of humor in telling the story about his extraordinary life and career. localfoodeater.com/lum-ka-naad-deliciousin-any-language-now/.

The story took Alex a child growing up in such harsh conditions that his mom sent him out to forage for food in the forest, to his extraordinary student and professional journalism career both in Thailand, and in California, where he founded and operated a Thai-based newspaper in both San Francisco and Los Angeles. I was so honored to meet his parents when they visited the US one year.

The well-trained and intelligent serving staff includes former fellow journalists like Apfel. She started as a server, became manager of the original location and then the Encino Lum-Ka-Naad and, Alex laughs, is now a restaurant owner herself! Even Ooi was a fellow journalist.

Alex has always been a man on a mission to introduce authentic regional cuisine, that “not even Bangkok cooks know how to prepare,” he says with his frequent chuckle. He and the well-trained, friendly staff take joy in introducing new dishes to diners.  I was so pleased to share them here with fellow writers and foodies, Faye and Yakir Levy and Cary Huynh.

For more on the story, please read food reporter Linda Burum’s wonderful detailed account: //www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-2010-aug-05-la-fo-find-20100805-story.html

Lum-Ka-Naad 8910 Reseda Blvd., Northridge, CA 91324 (818) 882-3028 Lum-Ka-Naad 17644 Ventura Blvd., Encino, CA 91316 (818) 616-2338

www.lumkanaadthai.com