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Over the Top Preux & Proper Executive Chef Sammy Mansour & The Colonel

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) In every picture taken of him, Chef Sammy Monsour, seems to look different.  I’m talking about photos years and also weeks apart.  Just look at the three below.  His own current bio stays the same and focuses on his southern background, Lebanese heritage, CIA training and sustainability advocacy.   But the story here is really about how well a second generation immigrant chef moving to LA will do when LA has not only always been riveted on celebrity.

We did not even recognize him from the Cochon 555 era picture – but we loved the sausage!

Chef Sammy has great “bad boy” stories from his Lebanese father’s kitchen  “joint” his father (with a parent being one of 15 children, like my mom), and his raucous southern upbringing that contrasted to the French technique in culinary school that laid his professional groundwork (his dad in a resigned manner offered to send Sammy to culinary school instead of steering him into the family business because he recognized his son’s calling).  The stories hint at how this cmulti-talented, storytelling, third generation eccentric creates a dazzling array of dishes that often baffle the critics and please us diners enormously. I know I’m in good hands when a chef leads me to the dishes he is most proud of on the menu. “I’m a talker,” he shrugs.  Each dish has a story, and we are ready to listen.  For a sample, please see //behindthepass.com/2013/05/17/201337samuel-monsour-of-jmcurley-in-boston/

 

Chef Sammy Monsour, winner of Guy’s Grocery Games and $20,000! (photo courtesy of Food Network)

It is so telling of the  whole of the Preux & Proper story here is more than the sum of its parts.  In this day when certain restaurants have no phone number (!) and others have only email or messaging alternatives, at the southern Preux & Proper, there is a friendly voice at the other end, and it may just be one of the two partners.  The partnership and the customer appreciation is key.

It really was like being in a movie to be hosted by what turned out to be the famous partner owner and chef at a “down-home”party at Preux & Proper

Preux & Proper, in fact, found its way after owner-founder Joshua Kopel  partnered up with Executive Chef Sammy Monsour.  As wickedly handsome as any riverboat gambler on the silver screen, just as charming but much better-intentioned, owner-founder Joshua Kopel “hails from humble beginnings” in Baton Rouge, LA. and at a successful point in his hospitality career, decided to bring a little bit of The South to Southern California.  And he has always been a determined sort.

In 2010 he opened Five0Four, a New Orleans style bar, in Hollywood. Four years later, Kopel broadened his focus to The South as a whole, and opened up Preux & Proper in The Fashion District’s newly vacant flat-iron building.  After a dismal beginning, Kopel was ready call it quits.

Then, according to the story, in walks Sammy Monsour, a third generation chef who grew up with roots in his father’s kitchen, considered a “neighborhood joint” in Chapel Hill, NC and by then was a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America. Chef Sammy by then was also a “big deal.”  He had recently left the hit restaurant  JM Curley Boston, weather being a big factor he told the press.  It was not an LA kind of place.   Included in  the USA TODAY top ten Boston places the review read:  “When a restaurant lists their rules and those rules include, ‘the customer is NOT always right, and don’t be a douchbag’, you know you’re in a true Boston spot.

Kopel and Monsour hit it off instantly. Monsour’s new refined menu reflected his classical training at the CIA, his Lebanese ancestry, and his Southern roots. Monsour became Chef/ Partner of Preux & Proper and South City Fried Chicken down the block.  And soon the acknowledgment and acclaim from James Beard Foundation and the American Culinary Federation, as well as national guidebooks – and a exhalted spot in the Cochon 555 competition.

So, while the image changes,  Chef Sammy’s current bio remains the same in his own words.  “Sammy resides in Los Angeles where he is the Executive Chef / Co-Owner of Preux & Proper and South City Fried Chicken.   Sammy’s advocacy toward sustainability has positioned him as the LA Locals Leader for Chefs Collaborative and member of Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Blue Ribbon Task Force. The two advocate for the Southern ideals of working with love, care and integrity, this includes sourcing from farmers and ranchers who do the same.  His passion for sustainability, application of modern technique and devotion to cooking with soul are staples throughout his interpretation of regional Southern cuisine.   //www.southcityfriedchicken.com

Sammy has also appeared on Viceland’s The Untitled Action Bronson Show, Travel Channel’s Food Paradise and been the victor on several of Food Network’s popular reality cooking shows, including Alton Brown’s Cutthroat Kitchen.  And he won $20,000 on guy Fieri’s Grocery Games.

 

Executive Chef Art Gonzalez at Panxa Cocina +Roe

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Like most “converts”, California native Art Gonzales, who grew up in Cerritos, goes the extra distance to share his passion for southwestern cooking he formally learned in Santa Fe, New Mexico.   And it was in New Mexico where he also first encountered the hatch chile roasting inside a barrel roaster at a farmer’s market.  It was the moment of enlightenment.

It came when he was in his late 20’s,  first embarking on his chosen career of firefighter at age 18, and then falling in love with cooking once he began preparing dinner for the firehouse, he fell in love with cooking. Following an injury eight years late, he tried his hand in the He tried out restaurant industry at our favorite, Spaghettini, and Mahé in Seal Beach, CA.

He soon relocated to New Mexico, working for the high pressure Hyatt New Mexico under chef Hans Seblin, picking up a distinct if subtle Asian flair, and moved on to higher and more relaxed ground in Santa Fe at the famed Geronimo, where he was mentored by James Beard Award-winning chef Eric Distefano in French technique in the kitchen and European front of the house skills.   He had such a close working relationship with Distefano that he worked with him on a special project outside of Phoenix at the in Boulders Resort.  Chef Art returned to Santa Fe to work in local boutique resorts with Chef John Cox until opportunities in the newly burgeoning Southern California restaurant scene beckoned, and he landed at McKenna’s in Long Beach.

Gonzalez and longtime girlfriend Vanessa Auclair, operations manager for Roe and Panxa, debuted Roe Fish Market in 2012, (closed for between 2015 and 2016) and Panxa Cocina, which opened in 2014 in Belmont Heights.  And the story continues to unfold with Gonzalez sharing his passion and knowledge of refined Modern Southwestern cuisine and culture.  It is about  the first southern western restaurant since John Sedlar’s St. Estephe decades ago.

The affable chef’s heritage of Oaxacan, Mexican and German comes through in his attention to detail and his warm hospitable personality.   He is becoming a hero to the Long Beach culinary scene, and rightfully so. I would drive to Panxa Cocina anytime, and have already promised my food writers friends to bring them, too.  Of this past season (and perhaps year), he stands out (along with Sammy Monsour of Preux & Proper, South City Fried Chicken, and Executive Farmer, Nate Pietsos)

Gonzales looks back with pleasure at the years he spent cooking in Santa Fe, New Mexico and returns regularly for menu inspiration and renewal, “for its farmers markets, Spanish influences, and small-town sensibilities”.  New Mexico is like that — I always wished I could bottle the air.

Patterned  after the rustic cooking of the region, diverse Southwestern cuisine is known for its diversity and fusion of recipes.  It’s heritage is regarded as the Spanish colonial settlers, cowboys, Native Americans and Mexicans over the centuries.  Similar in many ways to Mexican cuisine, it involved larger cuts of beef – and pork, and less use of offals.

Chili reigns supreme, and the official “state question” is “Red or green?”, referring to a diner’s preference to color of chilies.  However, in the internationally renowned chile city of Hatch, only green chiles are grown – and labeled carefully from the time they are harvested.

It is so odd that “Southwestern Cuisine” is never confused with that of the most southwestern states of all.  New Mexico claims it as pure Southwestern, Texas cooks up a Tex-Mex version and Arizona’s style is often called Sonoran, since the desert claims a third of the state.

I sat at legendary Mark Miller’s Coyoto Cafe counter trading stories with the chefs.   He cooked with Edwardo Rodriquez, who today is co-owner of Coyote Cafe.

Back at his own critically acclaimed, popular restaurant, Panxa Cocina, Gonzalez shines a spotlight on Modern Southwestern cuisine and some of it’s most fundamental ingredients of blue corn, hatch chiles and tequila. Chef Art’s restaurant itself has become an homage to New Mexic0 and southwestern cuisine, reflected in the striking organic decor filled custom Southwestern art and artifacts.

The Chile Pepper Institute is the only international, non-profit organization dedicated entirely to the education and research related to chile peppers.  Established in 1992, builds on the chile pepper research started in 1888 by notable horticulturalist, Dr. Fabian Garcia (the father of the U.S. Mexican food industry) when he began to standardize chile pepper varieties. Dr. Garcia developed the New Mexico pod type, and since then, New Mexico State University has had the longest continuous program of chile improvement in the world with chile breeders developing cultivars for flavor, heat, and culinary needs.

The New Mexican-type chile is an important ingredient in the food industry. Each year the Institute cultivates the world’s only Chile Pepper Teaching Garden, with more than 150 unique and popular varieties at the Fabian Garcia Science Center. It is a living classroom where students, researchers, and the public learn about the science, history, and versatility of chile pepper varieties.

The Chile Pepper Institute also hosts an annual conference dedicated to educate growers, manufacturers, and the general public on the progress on chile pepper research. At the Institute visitors discover chile research posters, chile pepper books, art, and hundreds of high-demand and hard-to-find chile pepper seed varieties. All the best is NuMex.

“We are honored to be able to partner with New Mexico State University’s Chile Pepper Institute and Dr. Bosland to celebrate an ingredient that I have been enamored with for my entire career. We hope that guests will have a newfound love for Hatch chiles after celebrating with us all month long here at Panxa Cocina,” said Chef Arthur Gonzalez.

For more information on New Mexico State University’s Chile Pepper Institute please visit //cpi.nmsu.edu, or follow the Chile Pepper Institute on Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter.

 

Second Generation Bone Kettle Co-Owner-Executive Chef Erwin Tjahyadi

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Bone Kettle is the product of a transformative journey of self-discovery and the revisiting of enriching flavors from one’s youth. A graduate of Le Cordon Bleu in Pasadena, Co-Owner and Executive Chef Erwin Tjahyadi began his professional career with an apprenticeship under the prolific Wolfgang Puck. Chef Tjahyadi subsequently studied closely with Chef Trey Foshee at San Diego’s prestigious George’s at the Cove before completing a stint as lead cook at Hotel Bel-Air.

During the height of the recession, Chef Tjahyadi co-created and launched the acclaimed, Komodo, a mobile food concept that turned into a rising empire by delivering gourmet cuisine to consumers on the go.

At this time, Chef Tjahyadi realized that in order to continue moving towards a successful future, he had to familiarize himself with his past. After a twenty-year absence, Chef Tjahyadi returned to Southeast Asia, undertaking a quest to replenish his palate and soul.

Chef Tjahyadi’s sabbatical transported him to fond childhood memories, reconnecting him to the initial spark that ignited his life-long love of cooking. Joined by his father in their native Indonesia, Chef Tjahyadi meticulously explored the vibrant flavors and aromas that constitute East Java’s dynamic cuisine.

Invigorated, he returned to the United States fueled by a newfound zest for creating innovative cuisine and thus Bone Kettle was born as the vehicle through which to bring his love of unique flavors to the people of Los Angeles. Adapting heirloom recipes from his mother and grandmother, Chef Tjahyadi infuses the old with the new. Bone Kettle’s all new Summer Dining Menu combines bright, local California ingredients with classical Asian cooking techniques. “I want our guests to step out of their comfort zone and be transported to Southeast Asia so they can experience an authentically new version of comfort food,” says Chef Tjahyadi.

Bone Kettle Co-Owner and Operating Manager Eric Tjahyadi described it as, “We are creating an authentic, artistic interpretation of what Erwin fell in love with in Indonesia,” “The food is his artwork; Bone Kettle is his canvas.”

The focal point of Bone Kettle’s kitchen is undoubtedly the Bone Broth. Well-balanced, the signature Bone Broth is created by using time-honored cooking techniques and fresh ingredients reflective of Southeast Asian traditions. Consisting of typically undervalued parts of the cow, filtered water, onions, garlic, ginger, and an exclusive Bone Kettle mix of dried spices, the broth cooks for 36 hours.

 

“Consuming bone broth in Indonesia was a profoundly cathartic experience,” says Chef Tjahyadi. “It spoke to me, and I knew straight away bone broth was going to be the foundation of Bone Kettle.” Deemed the ultimate superfood, Bone Broth has been praised for its restorative properties, chief among them, collagen, which promotes radiant skin, shiny hair, and strong nails. Studies have also shown that glycine, an essential amino acid found in Bone Broth, improves sleep and memory, while chondroitin sulfate, found in beef cartilage, prevents osteoarthritis and protects joints. Gelatin from the cow’s joints help to seal up holes in intestines, while phosphorus, magnesium, and calcium extracted during the boiling process are the essential building blocks for healthy bones.

Complex in flavor and nutrients, the signature Bone Kettle Bone Broth is incorporated in many of its dishes, but most successfully showcased in Noodles & Broth, where each bowl is served with artisanal ramen noodles, heirloom carrots, red onions, Thai basil, and cilantro. Protein choices include Prime Top Sirloin,Prime Fatty Brisket, St. Helen’s Braised Oxtails and Ginger Seared Chicken. Alternatively, vegans and guests desiring to minimize their meat intake can savor the Crispy Tempeh with shiitake mushrooms and seasonal vegetables, served with a vegan broth.

Chef Ray Garcia

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As a native Angeleno, Ray Garcia draws his culinary inspiration from the city’s rich culture, Southern California’s produce, and his classic training. As chef/owner of Broken Spanish and BS Taqueria (both opened in 2015), he incorporates all of these things cooking bright, bold, and ingredient-driven food that expresses a Mexican-American narrative.

As industrious as entrepreneur as he is chef, Garcia has a built a business empire on consulting and Garcia Hospitality, which promises to  “bring operational experience ranging from luxury hotels and fine-dining restaurants to fast-casual eateries and stadium concessions.”  //chefraygarcia.com His eponymous line of spices, for example, is at Williams-Sonoma store.

 

Chef Garcia’s latest venture is teaming up with Tecate Beer for their large, which features a BBQ in the back.

The chef and his team and both restaurants have received national recognition and overwhelming hometown support as a part of the international level focus and praise that Los Angeles has recently earned.   Most notably, he was recognized by Esquire magazine as Chef of the Year.

Garcia originally set out to become a lawyer. However, after graduating from UCLA with degrees in political science and business economics, then took a different turn in his career path by enrolling at the California School of Culinary Arts.

His first job was at the Peninsula Beverly Hills, a five-star and five-diamond hotel with a revered fine dining program. He would further his training with and seek mentorship from chefs like Douglas Keane of Cyrus. During this time, he became known for his restraint in technique and a deep respect for the integrity of his ingredients.

Young Chef Garcia’s skills earned him a six-year tenure at FIG Restaurant at the landmark Fairmont Miramar Hotel in Santa Monica.  Chef Garcia was allowed to completely revamp the classic menu into one of small plates with an ethnic influence.

Garcia has been consistently recognized for philosophies on environmental stewardship, and commitment to responsible farming and food production. He was honored with StarChefs “Rising Star” Award for Sustainability in 2010.

In 2014, Ray took home the title of “King of Porc” at Cochon 555, an event celebrating the heritage breed pig.

2014 Champion Chef Ray Garcia at Couchon 555 in 2015

Influential Los Angeles Times writer, Jon Gold, described him as, “If you could design a perfect chef for Los Angeles, he might seem a lot like Ray Garcia, an Eastside guy who seems to spend almost as much time proselytizing for healthful eating in local schools as he does in the kitchen. Garcia’s menu manages to be satisfying to both the transgressive big-meat guys and the Gaia-conscious vegans; the carb-lovers and the gluten-free.”

Broken Spanish is Garcia’s flagship where he translates a robust menu, showcasing preparations rooted in long-established traditions refined with a modern sensibility. Since it opened in June of 2015, Broken Spanish has earned countless accolades and recognition as one of the best new restaurants of the year by Esquire, USA Today, LA Weekly, Los Angeles Times and Los Angeles Magazine.

The critical success of BS Taqueria, considered the little sister to Broken Spanish, underscores Garcia’s contribution to a burgeoning dining scene in Los Angeles.

The taqueria has given him the opportunity to elevate Mexican cuisine, reinforcing the idea that ethnic food should not be relegate to a particular price bracket. Garcia hopes to usher in a new understanding and appreciation for Mexican food with quality sourcing and precise cooking.

Chef Sesur Lee, from Hong Kong to International fame

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Susur Lee was born in Hong Kong, the youngest of six children. He served his culinary apprenticeship at Hong Kong’s renowned Peninsula Hotel and after immigrating to Canada in 1978, he returned to work his way to executive chef status at a number of restaurants.  Along the way he developed the flair for being an entrepreneur. His eclectic culinary style is described as, “fusion cuisine.” His signature dish is “Singapore Slaw”, his take on a Lo Hei salad, which is traditionally eaten during the Chinese New Year.

Susur was a finalist in the second season of the Bravo TV show Top Chef: Masters, finishing in a tie for second. He was the second Canadian chef  to appear on the Food Network’s Iron Chef America.

Susur’s illustrious career includes being a chef at numerous Toronto dining establishments, judging culinary events, appearing on many food and wine television shows and owning/managing popular restaurants in Canada, United States and Singapore through his Susur Lee Restaurant Group.  Lotus, his first restaurant, opened in Toronto in 1987. He currently owns and manages

Chef Zipora Einav Brings Israeli Energy to Comfort Food

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Zipora has traveled the world for years sharing her talent for cooking, love of music, and passion for life.  She has enjoyed a distinguished career as a private chef and in Michelin star restaurants, including the legendary Ritz-Paris.   The high-energy chef has also prepared  meals in family kitchens and to the tables of some of Hollywood’s biggest celebrities,  Her clients have included Mariah Carey, Pierce Brosnan, Bob and Dolores Hope, Aaron Spelling, Donovan McNabb and a few more she will not mention, who were “picky eaters.”

Chef Zipora Einav (//chefzipora.com/) was raised in Netanyahu, Israel and served in the Israeli military before becoming a U.S. citizen in 1995.

Known affectionately as “Zippy”, Chef Zipora has compiled her most famous dishes and stories from her incredible life into her book,  Recipe for a Delicious Life. It is the first book to include interactive technology, allowing readers to download a smart phone app to make the pages of the book come alive with music and personal experiences from Chef Zipora’s life.  The anecdotes and adventures while traveling the world as a private chef cover decades.  The collection of recipes features the most popular ones with Chef Zipora’s celebrity clients, including Mariah Carey’s and Pierce Brosnan.

Chef Zipora learned early on that celebrities can afford the best ingredients and also require healthy, delicious meals that afford them the highest energy.   All of the knowledge and know-how that went into developing meals for them, went into Recipe for a Delicious Life.  This includes Chef Zipora’s unique perspective includes  playing music in the background of the kitchen to enhance a creative, restive atmosphere.  She insists that we enjoy the process of preparing the food that we cook.   She even produced a classic music CD, Music for a Delicious Life, to accompany her book. It features techno-classical music arranged by movie and television score composer Neil Argo.

Einav founded her company, Chef Zipora Enterprise – Comfort Food in Harmony with Your Health™ – to improve people’s lives by empowering them to eat well and embrace a healthy lifestyle. The company achieves this through its food, music products, books and edutainment programs. 

 

Vietnamese Celebrity Chef Kimmy Tang

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She is, as my mother would say, as “big as a minute” but her energy fills a room. So Chef Kimmy Tang, owner-chef of Bistro Mon Ami always “had me” just with her radiant smile and bear hug.  But that would downplay her exquisite Asian Fusion Vietnamese-centric menu with a French and California influence, and most recently a Romanian twist.

 

In fact Bistro Mon Ami is names after her favorite restaurant there.  And now, Pasadena diners can  judge for themselves how they feel about Kimmy’s  refined comfort food dishes.

Photo courtesy of Chef Kimmy Tang

Where Tang’s more formal, former Michelia restaurant in Beverly Hills epitomized French-colonial formal dining with savory Chinese and Vietnamese dishes, her more casual 9021Pho Restaurant concept in the heart of Beverly Hills (the former Papa Jakes location) appealed to customers more in the mood for take out and delivery.

.Kimmy’s glorious energy feels as though it is infused into the food and homey service.  Selections ($8.95) are hearty and generous enough to serve two, and she offers her customers a Chef’s Tasting Table menu for $55 that changes weekly.  Dining groups, one a table of eight young ladies, are offered original dinner menus for their regular get togethers.  To ensure that the dishes are never repeated for this or other guests, Chef Kimmy keeps a notebook to insure this, a la N/NAKA.

Chef Kimmy’s family is Chinese but she was born and raised in Saigon. After a harrowing family story of escape and relocation to California after Saigon fell, Chef Tang first followed her artistic bent in the fashion world, then became widely considered a pioneering visionary in the Asian food market with her formal but pleasing Michelia restaurant just outside of Beverly Hills.

In 2008 Kimmy packed up Michelia and set out to explore the world.  She revisited her birthplace, Vietnam, and Europe. It was in Romania that Chef Tang became a culinary consultant for the largest film studio, and a very popular local TV cooking show host.

It was as a volunteer in the Romanian orphanages that ignited in Chef Kimmy a heartfelt desire to help children. Kimmy currently aids Romanian orphan immigrants and sells the artwork of Children’s Hospital patients on  her restaurant walls  to benefit the Healing Arts Reaching Kids (H.A.R.K.) program of Children’s Hospital Los Angeles.

These days, Chef Kimmy opens her doors to all student interns and works with them on both how a dish tastes but how the flavors are layered to make it taste a certain way.  This and being involved in many community food events continues Chef Kimmy’s personal goal to “make a deposit in the universal bank of good.”