Farmhouse Builds “Field of Dreams” Must-Try Restaurant
(Gerry Furth-Sides) The FARMHOUSE boasts an Executive Farmer, Nathan Peitso in a partnering with remarkable Australian-bred Chef Craig Hopson to make farm-fresh ingredients into such instant classics. I have already been recommending everyone I know to this “new and improved” shopping center restaurant incarnation, the last of a merry-go-round of places on this corner.
But never in my wildest dreams did I image that FARMHOUSE Farmers Lunch could replace the void that Dominick’s Sunday dinners left on my culinary dream list. And they did (my dining partner just confirmed that the food is even better here). All except for our valet parker friend who made every visit memorable before you walked in the door.
Better than Dominick’s, the FARMHOUSE Farmers Lunch is available daily week-days so you can try every single appealing dish on Chef Hobson’s evolving seasonal menu. Executive Farmer, Nathan, works directly with his family and the regions top farmers to grow, harvest and create his “seed-to-plate” cuisine and showcase six ingredients each month. The current menu highlights eggplant, tomato, peppers, corn, and melons. All grain dishes are prepared from heirloom wheat from Nathan’s family farm.
Step into the door near the massive center’s corner and it feels as though you are actually in a big, beautiful farmhouse. FARMHOUSE, day or night, feels country fresh because of the whitewashed interior, high peaked ceilings; rustic common tables and the soft lighting shaded by wicker baskets. I am transported back to the gentleman’s Three Brother Farm of my uncles’ outside of Ann Arbor, missing only the smell of citronella candles. In fact, it seems like you are right outside of a field because of the innovative, subtle window lighting on a wall that actually leads to the parking area. This is the work of designer Olya Volkova and founder Laurent Halasz.
It is so opposite of its popular predecessor we frequented often, the deep and dark Grand Lux (operated by the Cheesecake Factory.) This time around, though, ingredients are sourced directly from the field as chosen by Chef Nathan rather than a long commissary menu with hopefully something for everyone.
Listing the dishes on the two-course Farmer Lunch ($18) best shows what’s in store. We added the generously portioned roasted vegetable side ($4!).
The Corn Soup is substantially studded with crunchy solid crab fritters; crisped basil and fresh-off-the-cobb corn. It is reminiscent of the wildly popular Upper West’s Corn Soup with black bean falafel and sumac oil swirl we never thought would see an equal.
Steak Salad (add $2) with fingerlings, is beautiful, naturally complemented by the tang of endive, radicchio, and blue cheese dressing. The portion is just right for this rich dish.
At FARMHOUSE, Executive Farmer Nathan Peitso works directly with his family farm and the region’s top farmers to grow, harvest, and create seasonal and vibrant dishes. Grains from his family farm just taste different.
The Mushroom & Leek Pizza proves this as a light summer starter. The toppings are sourced from Fat Uncle & Kenter Canyon Farms. The pizza goes well with a medium-bodied Chardonnay so FARMHOUSE carefully pairs it with an Iron Horse Chardonnay “Green Valley of Russian River Valley” Sonoma County 2013.
“Silky” best describes the Peach & Burrata. Legendary Piero Selvaggio of Valentino Restaurant just mentioned on a panel this week that until recently burrata had to be imported from Italy. He now marvels at the local product here. This
Chef Craig makes The Zucchini Soup with a squirt of lemon, feta, and basil, more interesting by adding pepitas for texture and a pop.
Fruit from Regier farm starts in the Warm Peach Clafoutis and plate of Cherry, Pluot & Apricot Sorbet. Pluots and apricots accompany the sorbet for a touch of whimsy that completes the dish.
FARMHOUSE, 8500 Beverly Boulevard, Unit 113, Los Angeles, CA 90048, (310) 818-4925. For more information and current menus, please see. //www.farmhousela.com. Parking upstairs over the restaurant is simple and inexpensive. Valet parking in the evening ($8).