Five Must-Haves and Why at new GRAND Bawarchi in Woodland Hills

(Gerry Furth-Sides) It almost goes without saying that when Indians frequent an Indian place, as at the new Woodland Hills Grand Bawarchi, you know the crowds are there for authentic, consistent cuisine. And this is so true.

The four family/friend owners’  already achieved their goal: to “create an initial sense of home away from home,  the warmest hospitality.  Then add to that, the smile on any Indian filmgoers faces at the name, “Bararchi ” on the caricature sign.  The name may formally translate to “Chef”, but to Indians, it refers to a very famous, lively 1972 Bollywood film.

Hospitality makes it worth the trek to the Woodland Hills eatery from any area to this modest cafe that looks to have been a fast service, drive-through at one time.  Once inside (and there is a free parking lot), the big-energy welcome, colorful decor is in direct proportion to the small size.

Executive Chef Amarpal Sabherwal laughed at me, nothing I liked his dish garnishes so much (I do).  That’s because the restaurant, well known in the Indian community, does an enormous amount of high-end catering. Actually, this is the GRAND Bawarchi, the major eatery of a multi-unit location company  It compares to Bob Spivak’s high-end Beverly Hills Grill on the Alley, and the more casual Daily Grill menus.

(1) Beverages head the must-have list are the Beverages, refreshing after any drive.  Even the Bawarchi Mango Lassi is different.  Here salt and Masala (mix) spices are added to a fresh Mango/Salt/Masala Lassi.  Nimbu Pani is also freshly squeezed, with salted lemon/lime citrus juice.  The very special Falooda features milk, rose syrup, chia seeds and ice cream – so rich you could have it as a dessert shake –  if not for the rare desserts here.

(2 and on up to 18) are the Biryanis on the daily menu.  Centuries-old Biryani has been making its journey from Persia and on through India. Tasty as all the northern versions are, somehow the Hyderabadi Biryani became most famous.

Biryani became as exalted a dish in this area after Emperor Aurangzeb appointed Niza-Ul-Mulk as the new ruler of Hyderabad as it was when it was first popped up and was developed in Persia, It is believed that the new ruler’s chefs created close 50 different versions that used fish, shrimp, quail, deer, and even hare meat. The aromatic saffron is the star of this dish.  You can catch a whiff of it as the dish comes to the table.

“Dum” is the keyword.  Chef carefully lays strips of bread dough tightly seal the lids on massive cooking pots.  This unhurried method makes it “special.”  The low and slow cooking allows the juices and spices to mingle in his flavorful—and all-vegetarian—curries, dals, and masalas.

(3) Chicken Roast Biryani is one must-have special. It’s the chef’s updated own version of the Hyderabadi version,  The chicken is extra crispy because it is first cooked with rice and vegetables, then it is taken out and coated with a rice flour and cornstarch batter and fried until crisp. Being the highlight, it has adorned the rice instead of being mixed in as usual.

 

Nizam Handi Veg and Chicken Majestic (below flanking Special dum chicken Biryani.  Nizam Handi Veggies include steamed, mixed vegetables, including eggplant simmered in spicy, creamy barwachi special sauce.  Chicken Majestic is marinated, boneless, spiced and then cooked with Biwarchi spices.

Biwarchi Special Congora Chicken dum Biryani are must-tries.  And so are the Biwarchi Special  Goat Dum Biryani and the  Thalappakatti Goat.

(4) Bawarchi Special Majestic Corn, kennel corn battered and fried, then tossed in a special sauce reflects the lively quality of the chef’s creations.  Cornstarch makes it especially silky.  Executive Chef Amarpal Sabherwal has created catering menus for 20 years and he knows that a crisp texture, as well as deep taste, satisfies diners.

Andhra Stuffed Mirchi is chili peppers battered with spiced flour and fried for a crunch in a bed of onions and lime, graced with pretty little carrot “flowers”.

 

For a twist on the commonplace Paneer (cheese) Tikka, try the Paneer Edina Tikka or the Bawarchi Paneer Tikka, which is marinated cottage cheer and cooked in a clay oven for a very different texture.

It’s not surprising if you cannot make up your mind so there are “Frankie” choices of menu combinations for $10.   You can probably eat at Bawarchi for a month without repeating a meal!

 

(5)  Dessert unique to Bawarchi is their Special Double Ka Metha. Fried toast flavored with milk, sugar and rose syrup is served with a nut topping.

One or more of the three partners, or the Executive Chef, are on site when you visit – a key to a successful operation.  And the owners are in the import-export spice business so you know that everything is fresh, fresh, fresh.

Grand Bawarchi, 7257 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Canoga Park, CA 91303. (818) 340-7500.