Five New “Must-Try” Japanese-Moroccan Gems at Cleo Restaurant
(Gerry Furth-Sides) Just when it feels like you’ve had the full array of Chef Danny Elmaleh’s updated fusion classics at Cleo by sbe and at his family restaurant, Mizlala, the Japanese-Moroccan star creates a new “must-try” summer menu. Each one is exceptional, and there is a chef’s signature MENU FOR THE TABLE ($65 per person) that includes 7 small plates, two entrees, and a dessert sampler).
Links to our interview with the chef and our article on CLEO is below. Our five-to try and why:
“Cigars” are a North-African classic with Moroccan food being slightly sweeter than the cuisines of Tunisia. Chef Danny rolls stick up minced spiced beef into his exquisite filo- like breik pastry and cool it down with lebaneh.
Chef Danny adds shreds of artichoke, greens and Greek yogurt to his “bowl” of hummus in the Crispy artichoke Hummus. It is as though this is how the dish should always have been served.
Sumac, tahini and a smoky flavor from being cooked over a flame make the new Babaganoush special. Pickled cucumbers and dill are the secrets to Cucumber Yogurt. Sheep’s milk, the spice, za’atar, and sheep’s milk feta make the Lebaneh unique.
Hearty, tender meat and seafood Kebabs, served with perfectly spiced Moroccan harissa and house-pickled vegetables (in the dishes at the top) are offered on the menu as a choice of three. Each choice makes
Marinated Skirt Steak features evoo, onions, and cilantro. Grilled Lamb Kefta adds rosemary, garlic oil, parsley, and onions. Garlic oil, lemon juice, cilantro, and onions bring out the full flavor in Spicy Charmoula Shrimp. Chili and garlic gives new meaning to the classic filet in Peppered Filet Mignon
Curried cashews, currants, and vadouvan add a new Indian twist to trendy roasted cauliflower in Chef Danny’s Madras Curried Cauliflower. And one extra to our five is the delicate Falafel that is unique because of the added tahini, tabouleh, beet-pickled fennel.
A gentleman in a suit moved through the room, making sure service was seamless for our very large group. He also helped us pick out a Cherry Pie Pinot Noir (2016), the perfect pairing wine to the bring out elements in a menu with both seafood and meats. We were surprised to learn that Michael Durovski was the VP in charge of Operations for the Disruptive Restaurant Group, a division of SBE, and not surprised to understand why the kitchen runs beautifully even when the executive chef is not in it, as when we first visited.
www.sbe.com Cleo Third Street, 8384 W. 3rd Street, Los Angeles, CA 90048, (323) 579-1600. Cleo, L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, 424-888-7818.