Happy Brand New National Catering Day! Ethnic from Ancient to Contemporary

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Catering has a rich history, dating back to the 4th millennium BC in China. Later, Ancient Greeks made catering a trade by offering services at their inns and hostels which lasted into the Roman Empire. Then, centuries, catering was primarily in the form of feasts and banquets for Kings and Noblemen.

Catering in America dates back all the way to our country’s beginning. In 1778 a ball in Philadelphia, catered by Caesar Cranshell, was the first major catering event in the United States. As it evolved from households who could afford it, think Downtown Abbey, into a commercial business, the one constant was the commitment to deliver the highest quality food and services as agrees upon with the host.

A huge thank you to Food Service Direct who has has partnered with National Today to mark May 24 on the calendar as National Caterers Appreciation Day. 

By 1820, catering became a respectable and profitable business. It was mainly founded by African Americans. This is not surprising in terms of understanding how to please clients, but in the business opportunities afforded this group. However, in the early years of catering many caterers were waiters and other restaurant staff.

And in the 1840’s, Robert Bogle is known as the “Originator of Catering”, he made it possible for the industry to personalize what they wanted catering to be. Many catering businesses began to partner and combine with their restaurants.

Even by the mid-twentieth century, catered events tended to center only in hotels and in the homes of the well to do. The brilliant, whimsical Ludwig Bemelman’s described hotel catering in HOTEL BEMELMANS. Anthony Bourdain loved it so much he republished it.

Bemelman’s wrote in the chapter, “If You’re Not a Fool,” The most difficult part of the hotel business is the proper management of its banquet department. A restaurant is a song compared with it….. But a banquet department is an ever-changing business… The host will forget all that has been good about it and mention only the bad…. Yet there are a thousand things to go wrong… All this work requires eight hours a day of solid thinking, and as yet only the preparations have to me made. Then comes the conduct of the parties themselves.” How true.

By the 1970’s more women starting to enter the workforce. This included catering out of their homes. This cottage industry grew into Full-Service Catering companies as they started to legitimize their business practices and embrace new styles of cooking.

The 1980’s turned into the decade of excess. Catering companies not only provided special occasion food for parties, but they could create sophisticated table décor and lavish flower and room decorations.  Serving table could actually be real sandboxes or salt blocks .  After-dinner entertainment could be personalized fireworks or circus performers.  Event planners coordinated parties for clients from two to 2000.  I worked with Along Came Mary, Inc, whose quarter million dollar party at Sony Studios was a completely imported New Orleans Mardi Gras.

Let me introduce master caterer, Roberta Deen, opening chef of Along Came Mary,Inc,;Capers Catering Company owner, preferred caterer of Bon Appetit. 

Roberta brought to her clients boldly flavored, authentic ethnic dishes. No internet. Here is her English tea party and arroncini. Her Moroccan bastilla was also. Barbra agreed).

No financial holds barred, fullservice catering companies of the time special occasion party food, created lavish flower arrangements, table and themed room decor in homes and created movie premieres at the Motion Picture Academy as extravagant as the film themselves.

When the 1990’s began, most restaurants at the time considered caterers inferior and competitive at the time.  However, after restaurants took a reeling blow to business when the government, in an attempt to raise taxes, ruled that luncheons, specifically cocktails, were no longer tax-deductible.  

Once restaurants realized they had another revenue stream right in house, many restaurants added“Catering” departments” to their business models to enhance their brand.

Chef-owner Ciro Marino and other ethnic restaurants, however, has offered catering since the 1960’s with gold old- fashioned style and hospitality. He catered to celebrities, but stuck to the dress rules. It is legendary that after he sent Sono Bono away because he didn’t want to wear a jacket, the singer went home and wrote, “I’ve Got You, Babe.”

Today son’s Sal, chef, and Mario, host operate the restaurant. They have been in the restaurant since they were kids. It feels like every meal is catered b because you can get off-the-menu dishes and a special table every time you go there.

Appetizers, décor, bartenders, and servers are some of what may be included in social event catering packages. And they change from party to party. These days added to this is a long list of a client and guest dietary needs, allergens, preferences and cultural beliefsl.

One experienced, dedicated professional who has learned the business from a restaurant and private party point of view is acclaimed Cynthia Mamukari who owns Taste and Company. It defines this classic full-service catering tradition. I’ve known perfectionist Cynthia since she was Executive Chef at wildly popular, cosmopolitan Joe Allen’s and Orso Restaurants (I loved) in the 90’s, and she lives it.

You know every single detail will be done just right, the ingredients are the finest and it will be delicious with Taste and Company.

The surprise is how much fun she makes a party for every guest- long-time or just started staffer. That’s creative, over achiever, chef Derek with her at the end of the evening (and 12th of a 16-hour stint).  

During the 2020′s Ethnic food continues to take front stage. This includes includes the communal feel. At this joyous 16th birthday party by Banana Leaf, for luminescent Neha Sambangi, the only formal element were the fashions. Event Planners here were mom,Satya, and friends, shown here, who seamlessly coordinated dance rehearsals, games and decor. 

Everyone was made to feel welcome and happy. Guests could eat whenever they liked at a generous buffet with labeled dishes from Banana Leaf Restaurant. Then Neha, followed by the Sambangi family and friends performed before everyone got up to dance and played games.  How wonderful a contemporary take on both the formal and casual elements of catering.