Italian Wines of Marche Face-off with Russia

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Savor  Italy came to town on a recent wintry, rainy day, bringing with it the essence of this favored country through an in-depth introduction to the “hidden gem of Central Italy,” Le Marche, and the new “food and wine gateway,” Lombardy.  Both boast sophisticated Central and Northern Italian wineries.  The region of Le Marche on the eastern side of the Apennines “spine”, faces straight into the cold Russian winds, which catapults excellent white wines into superb ones.

And the day-long seminar series was only half of the event.  Mountains of sumptuous food and wine samplings, abuzz with Italian representatives eager to explain their wares,  filled an entire other room.  We writers always lament that products we write about are not available to our readers.  In this case, Italy sent company owners to make the connections to make that happen.

Well respected, world ambassador and expert teacher, Laura Donadoni, deftly conducted the hour-long seminars and reintroduced us to the sumptuous land of Marche, known as The Hidden Gem of Central Italy with a focus on Velenosi Winery.

Laura is one of the few Vinitaly International Italian Wine Ambassadors, a certified wine educator, and wine taster; a certified Italian and Spanish Wine Specialist; and a member of the Los Angeles Wine Writers Association.  Visuals documented the care and detail going into every product, starting with lovely photos of the vineyards down to the topography of the area and what felt like every square acre. (see below)

Wines of Marche are unique.  This eastern Italian region sits between the Apennine Mountains and the Adriatic Sea.  Italians know it for the off-the-beaten-track holiday retreat of Riviera del Conero, a holiday spot with sandy coves, limestone cliffs and medieval villages.

The much cooler, windy regional climate makes it perfect to make white wine. The Apennines divide Italy into different climates, those of the sunny Mediterranean and those are cooled by the mountain range.   The region of Le Marche, which faces right into the cold Russian winds, makes it better for white wines than it is for reds.

Verdicchio was our favorite.  It is an old and familiar grape in central Italy, especially from the eastern region of Le Marche and its winemaking district called the Castelli di Jesi named after the ancient tribe, Jesi who lived on protective hilltop towns known as “Castelli”.

The grapes of lower yield – always known to gift vintners with more intense flavor- have always been of the highest quality.  What had changed is the lower yields in the vineyard and more careful construction of the wine in the winery. The wines have earned Italy’s  DOC (denominazione di origine controllata), its legal designation of higher quality wines, or even higher.

Straw colored transparent Verdicchio Classico is our first representative of the region which is the primary grower of the Verdicchio grape (derived from the word, Verde, for its slightly yellow/green color).  

In addition to producing still wines, Verdicchio grapes make tingly sparkling wine and a fascinating straw wine.  Vernaccia is a white wine grape with a wonderfully a slightly tannic, chalky finish due of its finely etched acidity.  Vernaccia boasts the aromas and flavors of pears and yellow apples and the prized Italian white wine end-note of bitter almond.

Full and intense Venenosi Vernaccia de serraetrona gleams with a Ruby red bouquet and clear notes of red berries.  Lively and with a nice body, it pairs well with savory and musty cheese, such as goat cheese or ‘formaggio di fossa, and of course is excellent with meats and soft salami in particular.

Laura is one of the few Vinitaly International Italian Wine Ambassadors, a certified wine educator, and wine taster; a certified Italian and Spanish Wine Specialist; and a member of the Los Angeles Wine Writers Association.  Visuals documented the care and detail going into every product, starting with lovely photos of the vineyards down to the topography of the area and what felt like every square acre. (see below)

Donadoni, not surprisingly, recently became  U.S. Brand Ambassador for Franciacorta, Italy’s most prestigious sparkling wine region and an honorable Knight of the Order of the Truffle and the Wines of Alba, a prestigious historic order of ambassadors of authentic Piedmont typical products and wines in the world.

An entire other room jam-packed with tables laden with products and wines.  ELEVEN TWELVE presented Sapori Italiani pasta, in an array of shapes and colors, so authentic that no one at the table spoke English.

 

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