It’s Open! Malibu Farm Newport Beach Defines California Coastal Cuisine
(Gerry Furth-Sides) Private-chef-turned-restaurateur Helene Henderson’Malibu Farm in Newport Beach is officially open! White-washed and sunny as the original in Malibu, a brick sidewalk leads the easy path to the indoor-outdoor restaurant, ice cream shop and store. It fits so snugly into a newly remodeled, carefully curated Lido Village unit it feels as though it was always there. The ocean air a few yards away takes your breath away a little bit, heady in its concept because, strange as it seems for coastal Southern California, great dining al fresco like this is still a rarity. //www.malibu-farm.com/newport-beach/
After waiting for months during construction delays, even though their phone was installed after our brunch visit, we took a chance on this soft opening day. So did a SRO crowd, evident in a line snaking around the front until the closing. Trays and dishes were practically flying through the air at the laid back eatery. Yet every single guest, along with the staff, looked as happy as we felt.
Fitting right in with the Newport Beach crowd, three cards of drink menus compared with one for food. Healthy, non-alcoholic “shots” of turmeric plus the more usual brunch goblets or pitchers of sangrias and mimosas were expected. The original cocktails, all deserving of one category list name: “Posh Slosh,” were a pleasant surprise. Natasha (below) serves the Smoke (alone worth a visit) of mezcal, shishito chipotle agave, fresh lime juice and chipotle sea salt.
Chef Henderson’s mantra originates in her local and organic approach, “Eat the real thing or don’t eat at all,” evident in her simple yet stylish menu offering fresh, health-conscious options. It’s easy to rave about Malibu Farms Cafe cuisine if your taste runs to straightforward, lush farm-fresh ingredients, artfully displayed. Critics who are not fans note, “too simple” and the concept “too precious”. For us three, this visit became a highlight of the summer. We loved all the dishes, and each had a different favorite.
Dishes meant to share include the Burrata Salad with seasonal fruit (peaches here), arugula, fresh figs and candied pecans, laced with a maple balsamic vinaigrette. Lively Avocado Huarache arrives on a long rectangular platter. Jalapeño ricotta spread, malibu honey and a lemon vinaigrette top a flatbread, crunchy enough to provide texture but not brittle enough to break in your hand. For vegetarians there is also a Cauliflower Crust Pizza.
In chef Henderson’s own words, “The ‘Lasagna’ is a spaghetti squash lasagna – so there is no actual pasta in this dish. It is made with the strands of the squash, which resemble spaghetti. After cooking the squash it is tossed with lemon dressing, and then assembled like a traditional lasagna, layered with a fresh made tomato sauce and a gluten free spinach cream bechamel and mozzarella cheese. Then everything is stuffed back into the shell of the squash and is served this way.”
The secret of the grass-fed grilled Burger inside a billowy whole wheat bun lined with arugula, is fermented and grilled onions, and decadent cheese. The refined broccoli mashed potatoes add textures and taste.