Must-Try (Mexican-inspired) the NIXON CHOPS & WHISKEY in Whittier

(Gerry Furth-Sides) When I was invited to Whittier’s Uptown Whittier restaurant District, billed as the “new foodie hub of Southern California,” I was skeptical until I saw the name of Mexican-Japanese American Katsuji Tanabe as executive chef of the NIXON CHOPS & WHISKEY.  The service, food and atmosphere all add up to a rich, memorable dining experience much more than the sum of its parts. Note:  My respected friend Merrill Shindler’s opening menu account was very different.

Previously restless and pretty much unappreciated for his novel Mexi-Kosher kitsch niche he created in Los Angeles almost a decade ago, ambitious Chef Tanabe has since earned a name for himself on national TV.   It’s fitting that he has now found an appreciative home in Whittier, even if to keep up his national presence he is not always in it.  His presence is still felt the moment you walk in the door and see his portrait and chef coats.  Now that’s more like it.

Chef Katsuji Tanabe has partnered with Whittier based Inspired Dining Group, who transformed the long-running Seta restaurant in Uptown Whittier into a classic neighborhood steakhouse albeit “with a slight Mexican accent,” as it says in the notes, beautifully integrating “a few culinary flourishes from his travels around the globe”.  The small-squarish restaurant corner dining room has a bar taking up back back, but it all works somehow, with with the buzz of guests of all ages wafting through the air an hour after it opens for dinner.  Down a corridor, two more bar areas open to the street, with such a pleasant air that guests in them invited us to join them.

The old-fashioned oversized menu with a modern, clean format is divided into categories.  We  were offered a dish of each — all served with genuine, warm care and consideration — and such a sense of fun.  A set of impressive steak knives takes center stage although we had so many extraordinary melt-in-your mouth meat dishes we never used them!  

Mezcal is a specialty and after makking our usual inquiry about tobala mezcal and engaging manager Lucy smiled conspiratorially – “ah, I see you know your mezcal.  Silver?”  She brought out a bottle of one of her, and now my, favorites among the 200 whiskeys in the house, a SILVER MEZCAL ARTESANAL, the best.  The agave type is a special San Dionisio Ocotepec blend of Tobala and Espadin, matured seven to ten years, from Oaxaca.  Distilled twice in copper column, it is close to 42% alcohol by volume and has a smokey finish to the notes of grilled pineapple, papaya and mango with lingering floral notes to the taste.

 

Even in this new era of artisanal cocktails, Greg stands out.  Drinks include The WHISKEY SOUR features Egg White to round out the edges of the Whiskey, Simple Syrup and Fresh Lemon.  The LAST WORD features a springy Gin, Green Chartreuse, Luxard Maraschino Liqueur and Fresh Lime.

We could happily have chosen every dish on the menu and so picked the most unusual dishes — we loved each and recommend every one of them that did not exactly make a “balanced” meal.  And with all of the food, really portioned for 3-4 rather than the two indicated, we were still satisfied without feeling stuffed.

From the CHILLED section: Tongue & Kamapachi Ceviche with Avocado, Pickled Tongue, Smokey Chipotle Broth.  A surprising, seamless fit.

Ironically, much as Chef Tanabe made his mark with kosher, pork stars here along with beef.  While we were waiting for two spectacular pork dishes, a server carved an Iberico ham in the middle of the room.   Shavings gaily passed along to curious guests proved it as the world’s best.

“The best bacon I’ve ever had” Bacon, according to my dining companion, a noted catering chef and former Bon Appetit staffer.  Key is the Maple Date “jam” and jolt of fermented, spicy veggies that dot the plate.

Lucy brings out the head-turner (no pun intended) Confit Half Pig Head for Two, which arrives intact at the table for presentation.  The Head is taken back to the kitchen to be shaved up and crisped in the oven.

What is with the tortillas that come back with the classic pickled vegetables and Chimichurri accompaniments?  They are crisp, yet buttery as brioche.  True, even the next day.

From the LAND section:  Ponzu Fried Chicken with Serranos, Habaneros, Lime and Cucumber peek out from under a mass of dill and mint with an added pop of fermented veggies alongside.

Quirky, novelty dishes arrive in the COMFORT category sides, including Loaded Mash (potatoes with Bacon, Cotija, Sour Cream) and Fried Rice (chorizo, Diner, Scrambled Egg).  SEAFOOD ENTREES, a steakhouse must, include Mexicanized Broiled Lobster with Chipotle butter, Ayocotoe Beans.   Outrageous crowd pleaser desserts  include Rainbow Tres Leches with Sweet Tears of Joy Ice Cream (commercial candy bits) and a KFC Bananas “on fire” with Bourbon and Brown sugar Caramel, Cinnamon Ice Cream.

Next time we’ll make a day of it.

Located in the Uptown Whittier Restaurant District
13033 Philadelphia St., Whittier, CA. 90601, Phone:   562-698-3355

Hours: Sunday Brunch:  11:00-3:00
Dinner:  Tuesday – Thursday:  4:00 pm – 10:00 pm; Friday & Saturday:  4:00 pm – 11:00 pm; Sunday:  5:00 pm – 10:00 pm
Happy Hour:  4:00 – 7:00
El Speakeasy:  Tuesday & Thursday:  5:00 pm – 10:00 pm, extended to 2:00 am on Friday & Saturday: