Best of Los Angeles

Honey Bear Daisy Cafe Blooms with Best of East and West Coast

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Editors Note:  THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED as of 2017

About the only true thing about Honey Bear Daisy’s homey “cute” name is that the place is friendly.  Otherwise the refined American regional, rustic dishes are layered with international flavors, and the airy, soaring space overlooking the ocean is as spiffy as can be.
Intense, internationally experienced, Executive Chef-owner John Schenk, is the driving force behind HB Daisy.  It is the culmination of his diverse culinary background put to best use; Chef Schenk’s seasonings alone command enormous respect.  His journey took him from his hometown of Buffalo, then back and forth between NY and San Francisco at the height of each city’s heady pioneering, innovative days in the ’80’s, with stints in between to Africa and Las Vegas.
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Colorfully painted counters hold an array of baked goods and packaged foods.  Refrigerated foods and drinks wait behind glass sliding doors on one wall.

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The HB Daisy is ingeniously designed so that you can order at the counter with your food prepared in the kitchen OR you can choose from gloriously prepared food on platters inside the glass cases in front of you.  The dishes looked so good is was almost impossible to choose!  Before we knew it, we had nibbled almost ALL of the snappy house-made sample potato chips at the counter while studying the menu.

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Again, wonderful, well thought-out design shows in the side space because a “rounded feel” comes with the banquette seating, with comfy plastic chairs at each table.  Note the timeless, marble tile on the floor. So it is perfect for a leisurely meal or a quick one.  It is truly a combination of the best of east and west coast.

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Chef Schenk  talked us into the Turkey Cubano as the best we would ever eat.  The chef with a self-assured, rugged demeanor that only comes from experience and expert bears such a resemblance to Chef Robert Irvine.  You cannot say, “no” to him.

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We’re glad we did.  He was  right!  “French’s mustard” supposedly is the key ingredient that makes this sandwich work – and the housemade pickles-  but oh-so-thinly sliced turkey was meltingly tender and flavorful.  The fresh bread was just crusty enough on the outside.  We forgot our disappointment that it was not pressed.

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The dressing on the salmon was paprika – not one of my favorites.  But combining it here with cinnamon and other spices now puts it on the top of my list.  Two side dishes come with each entree.  Here they are broccoli and divine, butter, silky squash.  The sample of ubiquitous (though well massaged here for tenderness) kale salad was not unique.

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The Falafel Waffle served with a frisee salad was dry; we were encouraged to use the yogurt dressing on it.

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French Toast arrived as three discs made with (Rockenwagner) brioche that lacked the expected pillowy texture, and with authentic maple syrup.  My dining companion ate every bite.

 

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The Turkey Meatloaf with jalapeño had a delightful kick to it. This is a  dish to be ordered another time.   The ribs in the counter could be added to this list.

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Matcha Tea shortbread appealingly stacked in packages.  The good: generous, delightful samples and the bad: The cookies have just enough bite and sweetness to them so that they are hard to stop eating.

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Breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner all have extraordinary choices. Every dish is familiar but elevated to its best version.  The service is welcoming, courteous and intelligent.  Parking on the street and 90 minutes free underground (totally different than north of Pico).

The couple  next to us from the court house said they ate there every day for two weeks — if I were closer, I would be there too! This is easily solved with the take-away options for so many of the menu items.

Chef John Schenk was born in 1957 in the city of Buffalo, NY, US John’s father, a native of Galveston, a small town in Texas, was his first teacher in the culinary arts, with food filled with deep, resonating southern flavors.   From then on he paid attention not only to how food tastes interplay but how all the senses are affected.

The long road to Honey Bear Daisy was filled with vital connections at every stage.  When John started his career in the ’80s in San Francisco at Patty Underman’s popular Hayes Street Grill, he became acquainted with the likes of legendary Mediterranean food expert, Paula Wolfert, and Barbara Tropp, the maven of Chinese food.  We only found out when he laughingly told us he learned how to cook fish.  While cooking at Paula Wolfert’s home, he “mistakingly took the fish off the grill after a few minutes.  It was the hit of the party.

image1Afterward came trips to France and Kenya and then a stint in 1987 at the outlandishly trendy Gotham Bar and Grill in Manhattan with celebrity chef, Alfred Portale.  The Monkey Bar followed, which earned him notice in the pages of Food & Wine as “one of the 10 best chefs in America.”

Every food writer and fan remembers when the dark, clubby Gotham Bar and Grill arrived in Santa Monica (north of the freeway) to great fanfare and it was the talk of the town – for a few months before it disappeared.  At the time, al fresco dining was just becoming popular. Almost reading my mind, and possibly because of his San Francisco job experience, Chef John announced, “you can’t just come out here from New York and expect to succeed with east coast ideas.”

 The New-York Times gave his restaurant work a rating of “Star” and  “The Miracle of the year, or the most rapid transformation of the restaurant in 1992 “. A menu of this institution, which developed the John Schenk, the newspaper said the words “almost all of his dishes taste just detonate.”  Two years later, in 1997, John opened his first successful restaurant Clementine) in Greenwich Village, and he was off and running.
John SchenkArmed with the knowledge of restaurant organization and imaginative, practical food back of the house, he moved on to multiple unit restaurant, and subsequently earned public recognition and financial success as Corporate Executive Chef with the corporation of the Strip House – a network of snack bars and restaurants located in New York, New Jersey, Florida, Las Vegas and Texas.

(www.honeybeardaisy.com), Honey Bear Daisy, 1705 Ocean Avenue (at Olympic), (424) 229-9669.

Odysseo Cavalia Stars Return to Irvine, California

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) When the stars of Odysseo Cavalia, the horses themselves, were last in town, we interviewed these extraordinary creatures about their diet, which they told us about and also how well they are treated.  

The startling bright white tents are back on the field next to the 405 in Orange Country, signaling something very special.  And special it is indeed:  Odysseo has come back to town.

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Imagined by Normand Latourelle, one of the co-founders of Cirque du Soleil, the show is a celebration of horse and man. A show unlike any other, Odysseo stars 65 horses and 48 riders, acrobats, aerialists, dancers and musician.  9b336a0b-a452-43cc-b5d3-19156c50338eThe  $30 million extravaganza is double the size of Cavalia’s eponymous creation, which enjoyed a successful Irvine run in 2007.  Odysseo’s  epic and soulful experience has astonishing l1.5 million audience members and wowed critics across North America.

arabians_bravas_pearlThe horses are the heart and soul of every Odysseo performances. These magnificent animals play in complicity and with freedom, in a symbiotic and respectful relationship with the riders, acrobats, and aerialists, charming and fascinating everyone who has the chance to witness this moving artistic and emotive partnership.

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The liberty number features purebred Arabian horses directed only by the soft murmurs of their trainer, and the fabulous caravan act that comprises people and horses too numerous to count.

When they last visited close to a year ago, we “interviewed” them about their diet.

All three horses are saying they “they love being together and part of this family.  …They are very happy and they love positive feedback…they get down time as well.  Their performances are traded out with other horses so they get play time and down time.

2016-02-06 12.11.37When we talked to the show management, they agreed.  “The well-being of the horses is the primary concern of Cavalia and they show this off during the show, where they are so pleased to express their natural tendency to play. A team of 20 people, including a stable manager, two veterinary technicians, a blacksmith and several grooms, takes care of the horses’ well-being. Together they provide a balanced and personalized diet, a training program, care for their hooves, etc. Every day horses get their share of pampering, including a shower, grooming, massage, outings to the paddocks and workshops with their riders.2016-02-06 12.11.20

“The horses eat eight meals daily — a diet of Timothy hay five times and Purina grains three times per day. On Sundays, they receive special treats including apples, carrots, bananas and pears. Depending on a horse’s role in the show, their diet may be modified by one of the three technicians responsible for feeding them. Some horses receive oats instead of grain or have supplements added to their diet.

The Cavalia Odysseo show is performed Under the White Big Top, 16576Laguna Canyon Road, Irvine, California, 92603.

For details and ticket information, please see  //www.cavalia.net/en/

Acrobats present an amazing mix of force and sensitivity, interacting with the spellbound audience, to the chorus of  live musicians.   Our favorite was majestic life-size merry-go-around featuring much of the cast and set of Odysseo.  For others, it was the dexterity of the African acrobats, the enchanting sound of the Kora, or sets that captured the sport of “favorite of the show.” 2016-02-06-12-21-15-1

The mindboggling theatrical effects are as spectacular as they are numerous: a state-of-the-art video screen three times the size of the world’s largest cinema screens, a three-story mountain for dazzling perspectives, and a real lake made of 40,000 gallons of recycled water which magically appears for a splashing finale.

The layers of mesmerizing decor make the audience part of the action while the gigantic stage takes everyone’s breath away.   Odysseo’s technological and scenographical effects create places no one has ever seen before; places where one can feel the deep connection between horse and man.

The sumptuous Odysseo takes the audience into a magical world where human and horse live in harmony for the pleasure and delight of all.Beginning in a misty, enchanted forest where horses graze and frolic under a sky of rolling clouds and a setting sun, Odysseo takes the audience on a fantastical journey to some of nature’s greatest wonders, from the Mongolian steppes to Monument Valley, from the African savannah to Nordic glaciers, from the Sahara to Easter Island, and even to a lunar landscape, illuminated by shooting stars and brilliant nebulas.

The  impressive list of superlatives about Odysseo include: the world’s largest touring production; the biggest touring tent on Earth – the surface covered by the White Big Top is 68,000 square feet, equal to an NFL football field; the biggest stage – 17,500 square feet, larger than the Honda Center ice rink in Anaheim; the most breathtaking visual effects; and the greatest number of horses at liberty.

Since its Montreal world premiere in 2011, the Odysseo cast has already mesmerized more than 1.5 million spectators in Canada, the United States, and Mexico.

TICKETS – * A gift-giving season special discount of 10% on all ticket categories is offered through December 24.* Tickets are priced from $29.50 to $144.50 + applicable taxes and fees.

For a memorable evening, the Rendez-Vous package offers the best seats in the house, exquisite buffet-dining before the show, open bar, desserts during intermission and an exclusive visit of the stables after the show. This unique VIP experience takes place in a tent alongside the White Big Top. The Rendez-Vous package prices range from $149.50 to $269.50 + applicable taxes and fees. Special pricing and packages also available for groups, children (2-12), juniors (13-17) and seniors (65+).

Local Chef Peppe Miele Inspires “Best of” 800 Degree Pizzas

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Common knowledge that the new 800 Degrees Pizza in Playa Vista follows in the footsteps of its enormously popular first Los Angeles  location.  But few know that it’s authentic Neapolitan-style pizzeria” recipe began with work by local chef Peppe Miele.

Peppe Miele is the President of VPN Americas, the American delegation of Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana.    In 1992, he opened the original Antica Pizzeria (I worked with him on his former white tablecloth restaurant, LA TRATTORIA) was part of the team in later years).   Antica Pizzeria was the first restaurant in the US certified by the AVPN.

After he closed his restaurant in 2011, he dedicated his time to the promotion of the Neapolitan pizza across America, first opening the Accademia della Pizza Napoletana in Marina del Rey (CA) and later, founding Napoletana Consulting, the most accredited consulting company for Neapolitan style pizzeria in USA.

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The 800 degree company  boast is not quite accurate that “the first location opened in Westwood Village to much fanfare and quickly developed a large and devoted following.”   It was more like a startling horde of followers acting as though pizza had arrived in America for the first time – the buzz and lines out through the door lasted for months after the opening (and remember, this is cafeteria-style performance cooking with one-minute pizzas.)  It was crazy, and the fan who persuaded me to go was an Italian chef who loved it.

And the craziest thing about is is the lesson that through high-concept branding (pie baked in 90 seconds) and sheer size 800 Degrees has indeed set itself apart.  Miele had a successful restaurant until recently in the Marina when the rent skyrocketed, but his table service,  long menu that included pastas, fish and meat dishes somehow were not enough to create the stampede for his authentic, Old World pizzas with hand-stretched dough and premium-quality cheeses, produce and charcuterie are also prepared in plain sight.img_4513800 Degrees prides itself on  in a polished and elegant “date worthy” atmosphere.  A spacious 3,800 square feet, the pizzeria features an outdoor patio and showcases an interior design with a dramatic black and white color palette and traditionally-styled wood booths, Carrera marble, intricate tile work and statement chandeliers.

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And, as my Italian- American colleague pointed out, “the price-point and the perfection of value are the appeal, along with the guest’s choice of top-quality, inexpensive toppings  as the pie is prepared in right in front him/her.”

img_4536In a place of honor that captures the eye as soon as you walk into the front door, the  authentic double oven made by the renowned Mario Acunto company in Naples, Italy is the required domed wood-burning oven, which burns at about 900°F.  Neapolitan pizza is cooked fast and hot in a domed wood-burning oven, which burns at about 900°F.   The high heat leaves characteristic blisters of char on the bottom of the crust.img_4531

Oh, that oven.  The 800 Degrees specially designed wood-fired stone hearth ovens burn almond wood with temperatures reaching 800 degrees Fahrenheit at the oven base and 1200 degrees Fahrenheit at the roof so that each pie bakes to perfection in less than 90 seconds.

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Chef Anthony Carron, formerly of the Michael Mina Group heads up the operation.   “The new community at Playa Vista has the ideal mix of residential combined with bustling business nearby, including a number of top tech firms.”

img_4545For this reason, the Playa Vista location  exclusively features a selection of Neapolitan panozzo sandwiches made on pizza-dough bread, stuffed with artisanal ingredients and wood oven-baked until crisp. 800 Degrees Pizza also offers a selection of fresh, made-to-order salads, a variety of Hot and Cold bites, a Burrata menu and a locally-churned artisanal gelato.

A  selection of craft beers and wine, including eight beers on tap.

800 Degrees locations are open seven days a week with many restaurants open until 2 a.m. For more information, please visit 800degreespizza.com.

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About 800 Degrees Pizza is an authentic Neapolitan-style pizzeria with the Association Verace Pizza Napoletana seal.  This ensures serving top-quality, gourmet wood- fired pizza with an Italian soul and “American heart” 800 Degrees was founded in January 2012 by Chef Anthony Carron, with  additional locations In addition to its Los Angeles restaurants, 800 Degrees operates locations in Las Vegas, Tokyo, Dubai, Santa Monica, LAX Airport, Downtown Los Angeles, and Hollywood.

Chef Anthony Carron strives to honor the heritage of Old World Italian tradition, in which the integrity of ingredients is paramount. They have earned the Authentic Seal of Approval for fresh, local ingredients along with premium cured meats and flour imported from Italy, and the oven as described above.

“We provide this and other with the correct information — how to make the product in the correct way, including the equipment and the ingredients,” Miele says.

Acceptable ingredients (not necessarily a specific brand0 includes fresh , water-packed, cheese and not mozzarella that comes in a brick.img_4559

The standard test is the Margarita, named for the queen it honored in the late 18th Century and designed in the color of the Italian flag.

For the sauce, San Marzano tomatoes, grown in volcanic soil in Italy, are preferred, though not essential. It’s the canning process that matters the most, says Miele.“Italians have a process of canning that’s different than Americans,” he says. “It looks different in the juice, like pulp and juice together.    “It has to be the quality that matches our requirements,” Miele says. “If you can find good flour in America and good tomatoes in America, there’s nothing we have against that.”

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The pepper spread is so smooth with such a kick that customers begged to have them at home.  They now set in a display on the counter in in their glass jars to pick up.

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The crust, a subject about which Italians could and have written vast treatises, is where the VPN really drills down specifics.  When we did events featuring the top three pie makers in Los Angeles, much of the presentation was on “crust.” Unknown-3 Unknown This included  Peppe Miele (then of Antica Pizzeria) , the venerated Tonino Morra (shown above) whose family owned Da’Pasquale and current Tonino’s).

Unknown-2Ed LaDou (who created the pizza for Spago and for California Pizza Kitchen as well as his own CAIOTI in Studio City.img_4548

“When it comes to equipment, it actually makes everything happen,” Miele says with authority.

One of the many letters of the Neapolitan pizza law is that a pizzaiolo must make the dough from a type of very fine flour, which gives the pizza a texture that can’t be replicated with other flours.  “It has to do with the protein inside of the flour, according to the experts. “ You can’t imitate the glutinous structure in real Neapolitan flour, according to Chef Peppe.  That extra fermentation not only adds structure to the crust, but also a yeasty complexity that underdeveloped dough just can’t touch.

Only about 60 pizzerias in the U.S. bear the the Association Verace Pizza Napoletana  or VPN seal, not including multiple branches of a single restaurant.

800 Degree Pizza in New Playa Vista Location

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The new 800-Degrees Neapolitan Pizzeria is the latest restaurant addition to the Playa Vista neighborhood of Los Angeles at 12751 West Millennium Drive at the Runway Development.  Known for their authentic (guild approved actually) Neapolitan-style wood-fired pizza and top-quality, gourmet side dishes, 800 Degrees lives up to their  slogan having ” an Italian soul and American heart.”

As a “front of the house” girl myself,  they “had me” after someone  picked up for phone and then patiently walked me through the directions from the parking lot.  The genuinely friendly service extended throughout our entire visit.  The staff is clearly happy to be here.

img_4513Since its debut in 2012 in Los Angeles, 800 Degrees has been wildly popular (see related article) as much for their polished and elegant “date worthy” and actually “old world” atmosphere that somehow encompasses the entire room as their authentic, Old World pizzas with hand-stretched dough and premium-quality cheeses, produce and charcuterie.

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The new Playa Vista location  exclusively features a selection of Neapolitan panozzo sandwiches made on pizza-dough bread, stuffed with artisanal ingredients and wood oven-baked (with almond wood!) until crisp. 800 Degrees Pizza also offers a selection of fresh, made-to-order salads, a variety of Hot and Cold bites, a Burrata menu and a locally-churned artisanal gelato.

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When you enter, the entire wall to the east is the cafeteria style performance kitchen where you place your order,  and can see all the fixings as you pass by each section.

The SALAD station comes first and the dishes are substantial and generously portioned as they are strong in straightforward ingredients that are the best to be found locally and in Italy.  The Chopped Salad above holds assorted vegetables, cheese and meats in an oregano vinaigrette, and is offered in two sizes ($7 / $10).  The dish was quite nice but the leftover we took home was exceptionally satisfying after the dressing seeped into the ingredients.

We would try the Gorgonzola ($6/$9) with butter lettuce, candied walnuts and dried cranberries.  Other choices include the Greek, Green with Parmigiana Reggiani, lemon and olive oil and a Caesar along with the trendy Baby Kale ($7/$10 made more interested with dried figs, goat cheese, pine nuts, balsamic and olive oil.

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Next come the CoLD BITES.  The Burrata & Beets ($8) stars creamy burrata (from a local producer) with roasted beets, balsamic, arugula and warm bread.

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The caprese ($8) features the house burrata with cherry tomatoes, pesto and warm bread — crusty on the outside and chewy to the bite with the special touch of the 800-degree oven.

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Pizzas are hand thrown and you see every step of the process as you move through the line. img_4515

  1. You CHOOSE A BASE that number three.  First is the classic Margherita ($8.95) with crushed tomato, fresh mozzarella, Parmigiana reggiano, olive oil and basil.
  2. SELECT ADD ONS ($1 from a long and tempting list and A maximum 2-3 per pie are suggested.    PROTEINS (such as sausage, pepperoni, anchovies, smoked bacon, egg, both vegan and beef meatballs – bacon marmalade at $3) , VEGETABLES (such as sweet corn, peppadew peppers, sun-dried tomatoes, roasted pineapple, butternut squash, raw red or cartelized onions) or CHEESES (feta, smoked provolone, Daiya vegan, fontina or truffle porino at $3).   Substitute imported mozzarella di Bufala is $5 extra.  img_4559

The classic Margherita that started it all with the Queen Margherita’s birthday and chefs who wanted the colors of the Italian flag on the pie. It is the standard by which all pies are judged.

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The Bianca (white with cheeses) with mushrooms and onions added. .
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Here roasted pineapple and chicken add to the fresh mozzarella.
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HOT BITES include meatballs ($7), Broccolini ($6), Baked Goat cheese ($9), Truffle Cheese Bread ($12) and Spicy Feta Garli Gread ($7).

A  selection of craft beers and wine, including eight beers on tap.

800 Degrees locations are open seven days a week with many restaurants open until 2 a.m. For more information, please visit 800degreespizza.com

“The new community at Playa Vista has the ideal mix of residential combined with bustling business nearby, including a number of top tech firms,” said founder, Chef Anthony Carron, formerly of the Michael Mina Group.   The new location is the 16th outlet for the acclaimed international brand, and the seventh in Los Angeles.

800 Degrees was founded in January 2012 by Chef Anthony Carron, with In addition to its Los Angeles restaurants, 800 Degrees operates locations in Las Vegas, Tokyo, Dubai, Santa Monica, LAX Airport, Downtown Los Angeles, and Hollywood.

Best Espuña Chorizo Recipe: Add Not One Thing

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As most of the top chefs in the world will tell you, when you are cooking with superb products, the key is to “do as little as you can to let them shine through.”

bodego-usa-tapas-essentialsEspuña products prove this as we learned firsthand.  Our box arrived and when we opened it, the products each wrapped in brown butcher paper and tied with string, we felt as though we were on “Chopped” and ready to go.  Here is why: New to the United States, they are the best commercial product out there on the market comparable to the reliableColumbus Italian.

Esteve Espuña, a third generation charcutier, introduces Espuña,cured meat products to the U.S. through The Charcuterie Shack.  This online destination features some of the world’s best cured meat products including Spanish chorizo and serrano ham, Italian finocchiona and more.

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The company policy explains that “Our sets are seasonal, we build them based on both seasonal availability and our own quality check — we eat it first– it our motto.   For that reason we apologize in advance if some of our products become unavailable over the year, we only sell the best products at their peak time.”

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As the grandson of one of Spain’s premier cured meat producers, Esteve also shares tips and insight on how to make true Spanish-style chorizo at home.
The story begins in a small Catalan region in Spain, with a long-standing history of producing some of the region’s best dry-cured pork products. Known for combining traditional practices with the region’s finest ingredients, La Garrotxa’s charcuterists are considered among the best in the world.

th_f05At a young age, our founder, Esteve Espuña, realized that he too shared this passion of producing dry- cured meats in the traditional way, and wanted to stake his place among the legends in La Garrotxa. He soon embarked on a journey to learn everything he could about the traditional dry-curing process.

Esteve began to handcraft sausages in small batches at his home in La Garrotxa, while also working with experienced craftsmen throughout the region to further his knowledge of the traditional dry- curing process. Overtime, he expanded his range of experience with a variety of handcrafted dry- cured sausages, learned the best spices and flavors to include, and went from being a beginner sausage maker to an expert.

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A salad prepared with España chorizo, grapes, croutons, greens and radiccio , roasted brussel sprouts, purple grapes, grape seed oil and balsamic vinegar, Spanish cheese

In 1947, with one employee by his side, Esteve ventured into business for himself and opened a small workshop in la Vall de Bianya. It was there where he began to develop his own unique recipes for handcrafted and authentic Spanish dry-cured sausages and chorizos. And with that Espuña was born.

Under Esteve’s watchful eye the company expanded significantly, and in 1964 the facility was moved to Olot, a larger neighboring town. Espuña’s headquarters remain in this facility today.

In 1975, Esteve’s son, Xavier, took over the company and made sure to maintain his father’s tradition of handcrafting Spanish charcuterie. Under Xavier Espuña’s leadership, the company grew significantly as he focused on launching new Spanish specialties and expanding distribution of Espuña’s product line to countries all over the world. It was during Xavier’s tenure that dry-cured Serrano Ham – a customer favorite – was added to the product line.

img_3839In 2014, a third generation began working to craft Spanish charcuterie in the Espuña tradition: Xavier’s son Esteve. Esteve grew up listening to his father’s charcuterie stories and is dedicated to continuing his family’s heritage of producing Espuña’s world-class line of dry-cured meats, charcuterie, and tapas.

How is this being done? The facility in Utrillas, Teruel Spain is USDA approved to export our handcrafted products — including the finest Serrano Ham — to the United States. The crafted traditional, dry-cured handcrafted sausages using  time-tested, authentic recipes are now being produced in the United States in the same way as the company has done for  over 65 years in Spain.

OUR PROCESS

The finest Spanish dry-cured Serrano Ham
How is Serrano Ham made ?
Spain has numerous kinds of Serrano Ham. Each region produces its own variety and in turn each producer tries to di erentiate themselves. Espuña’s Serrano Ham taste profile is closer to the Italian Prosciutto, less salty and less rancid than the common Serrano Ham.
Espuña is located in an area with a long tradition in cured products. To ensure the best quality product, we keep our curing process simple:

We source fresh hams from farms close to our facility in Olot
Place in curing salts
Air cure for a period of 9- to 15-months, depending on the product
When curing is done, we package the whole Serrano Ham pieces
We send the whole pieces of Serrano Ham to Utrillas where they are deboned and molded into blocks
Finally, it is sliced, packaged and ready to enjoy!

All Eyes on the Best Whole Mediterranean Fish in LA

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) AroLatin in South Pasadena offers a bright, most citrusy version of whole fish, accompanied by lime and peppers, which helped earn the  destination restaurant its title.  The colors just jump off the plate.  The flavors dance long after the meal in memory.

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If the fish looks so happy it’s because the three-year-old Arolatin is the “baby” of El Salvadoran wife, Candy Garcia Raina.
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Two other choices are on the new menu. The first is a Branzino a la parilla, marinated whole grilled fresh branzino (sea bass) , served with  mixed vegetables on yellow pepper sauce.a specialty of the house featured in the LA TIMES.

img_3886New Executive Chef Conrad’s  tender Achiote Snapper is marinated and served on a bed of mole verde topped with peach chutney and sautéed vegetables.

unspecified-2Here, dramatic Besugo, grilled Black Sea Bream is accompanied by summer squash and green papaya escabeche (photo by acuna-hansen) in the hands of Filipino Chef Jeff Lustre at Demitasse Roastery & Kitchen in Hollywood.

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The best kept secret of Aroma Cafe on the westside is their “off the menu” whole fish.  Served over a bed of roasted vegetables and onions – both coated with olive oil to be mopped up with their irresistible pocket bread baked on site.  A squirt of fresh lemon provides the acid contrast.

We only discovered this treasure at the cozy little Balkan restaurant because the inside and outside window tables are separated only by glass, the tables practically touching each other – and oddly reflecting all four diners.  One evening my Greek friend,  Annetta Kapon,  and I simultaneously spotted the owner and friend dining on the other side of the glass.  We kept looking down at our empty table because in the reflection it looked like we had the fish!  And then we got one.  The catch is courtesy of the owner’s fisherman friend ($20 for a portion that serves two amply).  You have to call in to see if it has been delivered, usually just after the week-end.  Within two weeks, Eva the server would answer the phone, ask how I was doing, and give a fish report without me asking.

Aroma Cafe, Overland, 2530 Overland Ave, Los Angeles, CA  90064, (310.836.2919),

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Annetta decided not to wait for the Aroma Cafe delivery.  She purchased White Trout (salmon) from Eilat market ($10), oven- roasted it with vegetables and onions, salt and pepper, then served it with lemon for a wonderful rendition of this dish, popular in Greece.

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This past week Annetta served the oven-roasted White Trout (salmon) with roasted zucchini, broccoli, a dash of salt and pepper.  img_4131

 

img_4132She  served it with a silky butternut squash and snap peas, a take-off of a trendy restaurant dish she tried the week prior.

Maybe what’s so appealing for us  are the ever-present French Fries that accompany just about every Greek dish, plus British version fish and chips.  So whole fish leaves out the double dose of “fried-fried” texture plus the double dose of soft texture  of the fish and the potatoes.

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Not one but three dramatic presentations of whole fish are on the menu at Marino Ristorante in Hollywood (blackened Cajun style, baked in salt or grilled).  Whole fish  was already a signature for marino ristorante when it opened 33 years ago – after all,  “marino” translated into the sea.  Mr. Marino, as everyone called him, leaned in and and asked me in his sandpaper voice when I first met him, “what do you think was the first thing I did when I arrived in L.A.?  I went to see what they had in the fish market downtown.”  He became a pre-dawn fixture there from then on.

Served table side, his son, Mario Marino has been adept at deboning or “filleting” the fish since he was a teen-ager. Sautéed spinach and a lemon are on the dish.

marino ristorante, 6001 Melrose Avenue, Hollywood, CA (90038) (www.marinorestaurant.net), (323. 466.8812).c

000061108_lWhat started this all was trying to be chic at Chinois in Santa Monica and the headline-grabbing ginger whole fish since it opened decades ago– especially seated at the back bar and watching it be prepared.

Chinois, 2709 Main St, Santa Monica, CA 90405Los Angeles / Santa Monica(310) 392-3037

img_4136A decade later Haifa Restaurant in the Pico-Robertson area became our  go-to place for whole fish, actually one third the Chinois price. Sofi of  Sofi Restaurant  and I would fight over who would get the head – and the eyes, which are supposed to make you smarter!  A cautionary note:  once new owners took over, the fish was not the same at all.

 

Celestino Pasadena Upholds Royal Family Pedigree

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img_3463(Gerry Furth-Sides) Pasta is the star of the Drago family restaurants.  And there are as many of them as brothers, even more these days, serving classic Sicilian and other Italian regional dishes with a sure hand.

celestino-dragoThe legendary oldest brother Celestino (pictured above at a charity event honoring him), inspired the Pasadena restaurant of the same name, one that translates into a  gold standard restaurant since Celestino first opened on Beverly Drive a quarter century ago.  In fact, the inspired, cheery chef is now “Cavaliere Celestino” since the Italian government knighted him a couple of years ago

We have been dreaming about the Pappardelle on Fabiano e Morelle (wide Fettuccine with Pheasant and Morel Mushrooms) on the seasonal Holiday Mushroom & Truffle Menu menu at Celestino in Pasadena’s tony south Lake district  for almost a year now.  It did not disappoint  in taste, texture and complexity.   And it is only one of the three sections to try of Morel Mushrooms, Porcini Mushrooms and Fresh Truffles from Italy.

unknownThe sauce teased every bit of flavor from the bird and perfectly complemented the fanastical mushrooms capped with the distinctive honeycomb appearance of ridges and pits.  They are impossible to cultivate and prized so highly they influence enthusiasts into a madcap hunt for them during the season, no pun intended.  And these are the best, from Italy!

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An open kitchen (rather than a showy bar) hints that cooking is key here.  At the same time it easily blends into the warm glow of the dining room, inviting and with enough pin lights for visibility.  It also seems to add a note of warmth and inclusivity of cook and customer, and the happy faces in the kitchen don’t belie this.

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It’s almost impossible to decide whether the service or the food deserves more accolades but we started with the food so let’s go with it.

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Be careful what you ask for here.   I merely mentioned the heels of the bread and got a basketful. Without asking for it.  It is impossible to eat just one:  Drago bakery that also wholesales to restaurants is the very best in town.   Their pretzel burger bun stands alone among all others and we miss LA Farm even more just for it.

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The beautiful intense deep red ROSSO di Montepulciano from the Poggio Golo winery in Tuscany was just the medium weight wine to pair with the rich pasta and the rabbit dishes, fruity and veinous.  Known to be food-friendly and practically priced, the glorious tall German wine glasses (that looked better than they photographed) added to its allure.  Interestingly the grapes for this ROSSO de Montepulciano from the municipality of the same name in the province of Siena differs from Montepulciano wine from grapes associated most often with Abruzzo and grown all over Central Italy.

img_3461The Zuppa del Giorno (soup of the Day) was pumpkin.  And pumpkin it was, with only a bit of butter added to the smooth, silky puree.  Mario told us that they rarely used broth so that the true flavor shines through of the vegetable.  A smiling swoop of olive oil and a drizzle of Creme Fraiche tops the dish.

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A whimsical presentation of Coniglio al Forno con Salsa di Olive Nere (Roast Rabbit with Black Olive Sauce) with baby potato, carrot, a teardrop tomato and spinach was light yet substantial.

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Mario brought out the famous Nonino family Moscato grappa, teasing to take the bottle when I loved the taste so much.  Originally done to simply use the grape leftovers from the winemaking process,  grappa is made by distilling the skins, seeds, pulp and stems, known as pomace.  It is usually sharp but here the sharpness is only the intriguing tart citrus spice because the addition of the moscato pomace lends an aromatic, soft, sensuality to the grappa.    The perfect ending to a perfect evening.img_3472

 

Profiteroles and Panna Cotta ended the meal.

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The very clever, and very delicious Panna Cotta (“cooked cream” in Italian) dessert which is made with sweetened ream thickened with gelatin and molded, here  had a citrusy fruit gel in the center of each circle instead of the usual berries or caramel or chocolate sauce.  It is fascinating that while panna cotta is thought of as a traditional Piedmontese dessert from the north of Italy, it was not mentioned Italian cookbooks before the 1960’s.

img_3449Calogero Drago (shown above right with head waiter Mario, and below) also keeps a sure hand on the front of the house.  The friendly Mario (left) only looks serious … although he is serious about his position at Celestino for 15 years… and actually began his career with Chef Celestino at the original Beverly Hills location.ndae8mryaoldhdxzcctwrdbpidjbb76ezhvkqvvlikyCalogero  hosts the sprawling set of white tablecloth dining rooms and spacious,  welcoming veranda on Lake Street as easily and personally as if it would be a tiny room, chatting up the customers and directing the staff in English and Italian.   (photo above and portrait below are courtesy  Celestino Restaurant)chef-calagero-drago-celestino-ristorante-npanzanella

Calogero Drago celebrates 15 years on Lake street and is the only Drago in Pasadena.  The crazy friendly and slightly frenetic  Il Pastaio perks up Beverly Hills and Drago Centro is a major downtown LA attraction.

Celestino Ristorante & Bar also has a very limited amount of the incredibly rare White Truffle.  Those “in the know” know to ask their server for the daily white-truffle specials.

Celestino Ristorante is open for lunch week-days  from 11:00 am to 2:30 pm.  Dinner is served 5:30 pm to 10:30 pm Monday through Thursday, 5:30 pm to 11:00 pm on Friday, 5:00 pm to 11:00 pm on Saturday and 5:00 pm to 10:30 pm on Sunday.

The Holiday Mushroom & Truffle Menu is available through the end of December 2016. For information or reservations, please visit www.CelestinoPasadena.com or call Celestino Ristorante directly at please call 626.795.4006.

New Fall (Spring in Brazil) Menu at Fogo de Chão

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IMG_0898As if the Market Table choices were not difficult enough to resist at the  Fogo de Chão churrascaria partychefs have just added brand new fall menu dishes to the array (spring on this southern continent!)(//fogodechao.com)

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Each dish, such as the textured Pear & Endive Salad, highlights the rich tradition of centuries-old Brazilian culture and complement the steakhouse’s variety of fire-roasted meats, such as the popular Brazilian picanha, tender lamb chops, and filet mignon.   Fresh, seasonal pears join julienned purple endive, crumbled bleu cheese and candied bacon with pear vinaigrette.

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The room in the evening as as warm, inviting and even brighter than we remembered it as lunchtime – and all the guests are ready to party.  You can feel the buzz as soon as you walk in.  We talked to three guys having a good time at the table next to us.  They appeared to be athletes form the mid-west.  And they were: tourists from midwestern England!

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Blackberry Azedo (Portuguese for “sour”) – In this perky cocktail, fresh blackberries are muddled with mint and shaken with Hendrick’s Gin, Crème de Cassis (black currant liqueur), and a house-made lime sour.  Fogo makes this drink international with the famous Hendrick’s produced in Scotland, known for its addition of bulgarian rose and cucumber to the traditional juniper infusion.  It is tart but not sour at all.

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Whisky Jam Sour – Fogo’s new take on the classic whiskey sour includes premium Monkey Shoulder Blended Scotch Whisky shaken with raspberry jam, orange bitters, and a house-made lemon sour.  It brings a refreshing balanced contrast between sweet and tart.

An updated  wine list features more than 55 South American labels each hand-selected to perfectly complement the numerous Brazilian specialties only found at Fogo de Chão.   We tried one of the fruity, dry and welcome Malbec vintages sourced from renowned Argentinian producers and one of the rich Chilean Cabernet Sauvignons.

Fogo de Chão’s other new autumn dishes include:

fogo_fall_roasted_butternut_squash_saladRoasted Butternut Squash Salad – Butternut squash, a winter staple in Brazil, is roasted with cinnamon and honey and then tossed with American cranberries andGreek feta.

 

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Butternut & Sweet Potato Soup – Creamy roasted butternut squash is blended with sweet potatoes and winter spices that works as a starter for any meal.

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Caution: We were determined to do our best to limit the southern Brazilian side dishes — and failed.  There are just too many tempting selections on the table.  I have not used my mom’s favorite phrase when we went to a cafeteria together in decades, “your eyes are bigger than your stomach.”  Manager Leo and our servers just laughed.   They are quite used to this.

IMG_0905We were better mannered with the the pão de queijo (warm cheese bread), meaning that the table finished one basket only.
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The classic Feijoada dish (black bean stew with rice, fresh orange and yuca flour), which can be a meal in itself – and is for most every Saturday in Brazil.

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The green signal for “more” or “red” for stop.

IMG_0927Just when you think you’re balancing out the Market Table with the beef, along comes crispy hot polenta, and caramelized bananas  served family style on the table.

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Fogo de Chão,  internationally famous Brazilian steakhouse, or churrascaria, for over 36 years specializes in in fire-roasting high-quality meats utilizing the centuries-old Southern Brazilian cooking technique of churrasco.

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The unusual and  wonderful peppers shown above were about the only dish a bit out of reach on the  Market Table feast that hadn’t been dipped into on the table when we went around.

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We “exercised” before the very last course with a very short  march into the kitchen hidden next to the enormous wine racks, where we were privileged to see the fiery ovens.

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Rafi (below) our server took great care of us — enticing us at the end of the meal with dessert, tres leches (three-milk cake).

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Guests can also choose between lighter seafood selections, or enjoy the gourmet Market Table only option at lunchtime for $15, and add individual meats priced individually.

For more information, visit //fogodechao.com

Korean Father-Son Perfect Japanese Sushi at KURA

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IMG_9076(Roberta Deen and Gerry Furth-Sides) Virtually  “hidden in broad daylight” in a sprawling Sunset Boulevard strip mall, the spacious, subdued interior of Kura Sushi Restaurant becomes the realm of a sophisticated Korean father-son team (Sunny and Daniel) offering the finest of seasonal and omakase dinners prepared in true traditional Japanese style.  Its name is accurate:  In Japan the “kura” was historically a village storehouse holding precious heirlooms and provisions to support the local community.  IMG_9080

We were served the Kaiseki, a time-honored, very classic, formally organized Japanese meal with a set course of menu dishes.  The dishes are prepared with the five basic cooking methods: raw, steamed, simmer, fried, grilled. It also refers to the elaborate collection of chef skills and techniques that go into the preparation.

The thoughtful, series of small-plate summer  omakase (oh-ma-kha-say) or chef’s choice  arrives in the traditional manner of light to dense fish, as well as  a progression in the manner of cooking, under the sure hand of Executive Chef Daniel Son.  Chef Son does show his Korean influence in bolder and often dazzling presentations.  We were especially lucky to be at Kura on a Thursday, when Chef Son receives from the famed Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo a “mystery box” of seasonal fish and seafood, usually wild, to challenge him.

A small glass of Dassai 50 Sake smoothed out all frustrated feelings about the blazing heat and traffic outdoors.  We already were impressed by Chef Son’s Corn Soup Recipe and background when we introduced him to LocalFoodEater this past spring.  //localfoodeater.com/kura-chefs-favorite-japanese-summer-corn-recipe/)

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First to arrive was a small porcelain bowl decorated with a tangle of summer flowers.  This traditional  first course to introduce the meal, Chowwon Mushi, is usually served hot, this one touched with snow crab and egg custard and carrots in a delicate yet rich dashi.

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At first glance, it is looks to be a tomato broth but underneath the golden-tinged film is another layer to be explored.

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Once stirred, the slightly chewy texture of the snow crab, the bite of carrot and the silky egg custard in the gossamer dashi broth combine into a heavenly nectar fit for the Gods.  With all due respect and apologies, “Chef Daniel  had us” with this first course.

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While we were still trying to catch out breath, the Kyushu Sashimi Flying Fish from Japan placed in front us that Chef Daniel had been working on behind the counter took it away again. Perched on a shredded daikon radish nest, the ponzu, scallion and ginger provided the exact amount of sweet, tart and texture to enhance and balance the fish.

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“Summertime is the season of the flying fish,” Chef Daniel reported.  “It is especially prized because of its roe.  The box arriving from the famous Tsukjii Fish Market in Tokyo specializes in fish for Edomae. This at one time referred to fish caught in Tokyo Bay and now includes surrounding waters from the southernmost island of Kyushu to Hokkaido – plus the best in the world that is practically attainable.

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The “behind-the-scene” props that held the fish aloft added to the fun and “insider” feeling. It is fitting that Chef Daniel, who started working at the restaurant when he was 15, has experience in the world’s top kitchens from the venerated Spago (under Chef Tenzu) to one Michelin star, Sushi Yoshizumi under Master Akira Yoshizumi, and Noma (rated best in the world). He shared, “a lot of preparation goes on for a single night.  It’s like being a part of a creative Cirque du Soleil performance where you prepare and are in sync – and the reward is in the reaction of the people you are serving.”

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The cloud-like delicacy of Hotardo Ika (baby squid) and cubed Monk fish Liver in a sauce of yuzu (citrus) and ponzu is belied by its pedestrian, brownish color.  Poached, then cooled down and flambeed with sake, ginger is added to the monk fish liver along with soy sauce and kombu.  The cleanness, the softness, the unique pairing in this initial course define everything embodied in the Kaiseki style.  “and I was born to preserve the Kaiseki style,” Executive Chef, Daniel Son, tells us as he works his art.

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Chef Daniel puts the finishing touch on Nigari Sushi (with rice) which is presented next in the progression of light to dense.  Nigari referred to “hand-pressed sushi” presented on an oblong mound of sushi rice.

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First, the  leanest, pale white Sweet Lip  Emperor Fish  is embellished only with lemon juice and Himalayan Pink Salt.  Also known as the Sweetlip Swooze, this fish ranging in lively  red to light grey colors, lives in reefs and are prized for their lovely taste.

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Chef Daniel adds a touch of  Oroshi Ponzu, ponzu with a bit of  horseradish, to the Japanese Green Fish that pairs with it.  Chef Daniel told us that the very small portion of Tokyo-style rice,  a very sweet Osaka rice best balances out the flavors of the fish.  Osaka cuisine is known for being light and the rice for enhancing, rather than interfering, with the individual flavors of the fish.

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A bit meatier, a bit firmer and a bit fattier and served with lemon and Himalayan Pink salt is “Bar-Tailed Flathead” or Magochi, paired with Madai, Japanese Sea Bream, here served with a touch of lime and Himalayan Pink Salt.  It is properly prepared with Sudashi, a rare citrus fruit.

img_9120The effervescent, intelligent server/manager, Annie, turns out to be Chef Daniel’s sister!  She presents the next course, a step up in a rich and fattier fish, with a touch stronger flavor as well.

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Inada (Young Yellowtail); Konpachi, brings with it a subtle but surprisingly different flavor and texture; and Bari, an Australian mature Yellowtail, is here served with Wasabi and a house-made soy sauce, which Daniel prepares with sake.

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Deeper in color, the Norwegian Salmon Belly lends a soft, satiny, stronger flavor. It is garnished simply with ground toasted sesame seed.  Shiroito, the Ocean trout paired with it, is dressed with Kombu, a refreshing white sea kelp with a flavor reminiscent of the ocean.

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To enhance the progression of the fish, from raw to cooked,  roasted and seared Katsuo (Skip Jack Tuna), is paired with the deeply colored Toro, medium fatty tuna, that is seared to tenderize it. Toro is a huge fish with the most belly tender for sashimi.

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I had mentioned how much I was intrigued with Hokkaido and Chef Daniel beamed when as he presented a Hokkaido Scallop from this rugged, northernmost island of Japan, renowned for its wild fish and seafood.  He enhanced it only with pickled daikon red radish and seared sesame Nori. 

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Chef Daniel was quick to let us know that in addition to the Kaiseki concept, “we have rolls and sashimi, too!”  to prove it, he brought out a crab, cucumber and Japanese mayo wrapped in Nori as the last though of the meal before dessert.

 

img_9149Dessert was a meal unto itself as well – and shows the best of Daniel’s  playful Korean influence, along with his work at world famous restaurant. Chef Daniel has taken the street food, Taiyaki, the little red bean paste and custard-filled fish batter mold cookies.  The chef  added to it house made Black Sesame ice cream with a black sesame crumble.  A whimsical abundance of riches after a spectacular meal.

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Colorful rows of chopsticks on a divided wall shelf welcome KURA “regulars” into the restaurant with a friendly-community manner.  The chopsticks are used to eat sashimi and not the nigiri sushi we were privileged to enjoy, which are always eaten with your fingers even in the most formal of settings.

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Embracing both family and community, KURA has established itself as a “Purveyer of Fine Sushi and Japanese Cuisine” since it opened 15 years ago in a Sunset Boulevard strip mall at Crescent Heights in West Hollywood.  “Audaciously refreshing” describes the experience best.

Kura – www.kura-sushi.com
8162 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, CA  90046 (323) 656-6347

Meat and SO Much More Star at Fogo de Chão’s Brazilian Steakhouse

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event-3316067The biggest surprise about our meal at Fogo de Chão, (“fire on the ground”in Portuguese),the world’s leading Brazilian steakhouse/churrascaria, were the superb side dishes that stood up and sometimes above the Brazilian-born gaucho chefs’ authentic, superb grilled meats – from beef filet mignon to Brazil’s signature piranha.

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The experience is as straightforward as a gaucho campfire only magnified a thousand times and done in the most tongue-in-cheek, theatrical manner.
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Yes, the show is all there with gaucho’s bearing filets and steaks of beef, lamb chops, shrimp and seafood carving off the exact slice you choose, rare, medium or well-done. A small plate and a pair of tongs at every place setting is there to nap the sliced off meat from the skewer when the gaucho slices it off for you.
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The fun of the experience is simply placing your cardboard disc as a sign to the passing gauchos on the table as they pass by with skewers.  The green disc signifies  “yes” (sim, for favor) to have them stop by and red for “no Thanks (obrigado).” The steady offer for more food is one of the churrascaria.

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What can you say about cheese dinner rolls?  Baskets of Brazilian yucca-flour cheese puffs, pão de queijo, put mini-popovers in mind with their paper-crisp exterior and spongy interior and are as addictive.  We are paleos who adore beef, shrimp, lamb chops and every kind of beef.  We could have made a meal of these freshly baked little beauties, we stopped wondering whether it was the buttery, puff pastry texture or something else instead in order to go on with the meal.

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We could also have made a meal of the national dish of Brazil, at the Feijoada Bar where half-pans are replenished filled with warm Black Bean Steak Sausage and Farofa (Roasted Yucca Flour with Bacon) and “dirty rice” of rice with beans and special seasonings.  But, oh those seasonings.   This dish is a ritual every Saturday for all Brazilians. IMG_0927

Caramelized bananas, hot, warm cheese polenta, and garlic- mashed potatoes are also places on each table in the dining room.
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Fresh lemonade and the Brazilian national drink start off a meal although there is a long wine list. Fogo de Chão is the only restaurant brand in the Americas to have at least one level one sommelier in each restaurant and one of the largest lists of South American wines.  Caipirinha is usually the order of the day, the national drink of a lime juice-infused cocktail prepared with a sugar cane liquor, cachaça.
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This is a salad plate from the buffet table and a fraction of what is available, all made from farm-fresh ingredients and seasoned perfectly.  Again, yes, we could have made an entire meal of the salads – perfect for vegetarians.

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The Fogo de Chão experience begins as you enter the magnificent restaurant facade with soaring ceilings inside and host Dan to welcome you.  A smiling valet gave us the option of parking our own car that us happy. It was the beginning of hospitality that lasted through the meal.  It is a “show” with a warm spot for its audience.

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Inside Manager Leo, Leonardo Bauer (above) and Host Dan (below) took over the hospitality inside.

IMG_0941Fogo de Chão is a leading Brazilian steakhouse, or churrascaria, which has specialized for more than 36 years in fire-roasting high-quality meats utilizing the centuries-old Southern Brazilian cooking technique of churrasco.

 The company was founded in 1979 in Porto Alegre, Brazil, and expanded into the U.S. in 1997.  There are currently 42 locations throughout Brazil, the United States, and Mexico For more information, visitFogo.com.   “The Gaucho Way,”  video shot through the eyes of real Fogo de Chão Brazilian gauchos  explores the restaurant’s deep cultural roots in Southern Brazil.

FOGO DE CHÃO –  133 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills 90211 (310) 289-7755