Best of Los Angeles

Authentic New IzakayaSLOWfish Adds Asian-Fusion Allure

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IZAKAYA SLOW FISH(Roberta Deen and staff) American versions of Izakayas have  been popular in America for years, sushi usually being the draw, with several in Los Angeles fully booked for their entire 24-hour daily runs.   Owner John Lee recently introduced a more classic version at Izakaya by Slow Fish in West Hollywood.   His executive chef, Hyunchang Han, trained in Tokyo to learn the Japanese version of dishes, and in New York to master current, popular American trends.  Chef Han and his crew strut their stuff in the compact performance kitchen along one side wall fronted by a specially built grill.   Below is a photo by Yakir Levy.

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Chef Steve is there to also oversee the preparation. ChefAnd all lined up on the serving board is an array of their work, still smoking.

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Because this izakaya is in Los Angeles, Lee and Han added Asian-Fusion, plus Korean and California -inspired dishes to familiarize patrons with the concept gradually.  Lee understood that more than simply “a tavern that serves small plates,” a true “izakaya”  as “a fun hangout for unwinding, relaxing and sharing” calls not only for “gastropub food with owner and chef pride of fare,” but an appealing menu to the wide range of diners.  In this place guests are seated at the long, colorful banquette-style tables or on the snug outside deck of the set back free-standing little building.

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The Izakaya menu of simple comfort dishes aims for perfect bites of savory and umami.   Izakaya by Slowfish features the most updated classic  bites that go well with the soft drinks, beers, wines and Sake on the menu.   Special Soju cocktails are also offered.

IMG_7789Infused sous are, in fact,  a specialty of the house.  Apple, grapefruit and hot pepper lemon are the three current flavors.  Fruits infuse the alcohol for well over a month in bottles that decorate Izakaya’s shelves overlooking the dining room.  The more they sit to infuse the more flavorful they become, so patrons are encouraged to keep trying them for up to six months regularly to taste the difference after the first bottles are opened.

Edamame  in a blistered pod arrives at the table in a most startlingly beautiful makeover with smoked and grilled  green soybeans cradled in a corn husk (left)

IMG_7728Corn on the Cob is grilled, sprinkled with Parmesan cheese and paprika powder for a smoky flavor that has become a classic Latin take on an American picnic favorite. Slowfish Fries are wedge-cut and delicately sprinkled with rosemary andserved with a trio of dipping sauces: spicy mayo, ketchup and bacon-mustard sauce. (Shown below)

IMG_7749IMG_7735Taco Yaki, a favorite ball-shaped Japanese snack made of a wheat flour-based batter is cooked in a special takoyaki pan. Tucked inside is tender, chopped octopus, tempura batter bits, pickled ginger and green onion.

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House Fish Cake (shown below) are balls filled with delicate ground white fish with calamari – not on the menu yet.

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MEAT SECTION choices radiate with Korean influence.  The Galbi Skewers, marinated beef galbi and rice cake on a skewer with grilled veggies tops the list. The presentation of  sticky rice lollipops almost steals the show.  In Korea they are served as street food and children’s snacks, sprinkled with sugar.IMG_7754

 

The Rib Eye Steak is dressed with balsamic sauce, along with red and green peppers. IMG_7764

 Jeon, the classic pancakes, are a “must” on any Izakaya menu. Jeon is also popular in Korean cuisine with many versions of the past developed for royal court cuisine.

IMG_7770An assortment platter with one each of shiitake, seafood, pork and hot pepper offers a preview selection. Another version is the Chopped Shrimp, Hot Peppers and Ground Beef filled Pancakes in the form of seared patties, similar to crab cakes.

Chicken Karagae, the famous Japanese-style fried chicken is lightly coated in a subtle batter.

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Also known as Champon, Nagasaki noodles from the region of the same name, are considered a favorite “comfort food.” Inspired by Chinese cuisine, the dish is considered both Japanese and Chinese. Ramen noodles made especially for champon are boiled right in the soup so the flavor seeps through them as they cook.

One reason to visit is the Seafood Yakiudon, fat little noodles stir-fried with shrimp, calamari and scallop in a rich, rich sauce with just enough to coat it and have some at the bottom. The rice paper bowl is edible. IMG_7778

Kimchi Fried Brown Rice is pan-fried and topped with pork slices and a quail egg. IMG_7767Garlic Seafood Rice speaks an international language of pan-fried rice with garlic, shrimp, mussels, calamari, scallions, leeks and asparagus – with a buzz of .

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Salads have an American and European influence. A Mango Salad is rich with fruit, mixed greens, beets and teardrop tomatoes, topped with sweet potato and a beet tempura “frisee”  – coated lightly with a textured sesame dressing.

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Korean influence in the high-style sushi means bigger, bolder creations in the SPECIAL ROLLS section, rather than  those found in more delicate Japanese creations.  The same type of complex design is in place with sideview as complex as a roadmap.   A burning salt mound creates a fiery sensation for the Dragon Roll of crabmeat, avocado, tempura shrimp, eel and eel sauce.A burning salt mound creates a fiery sensation for the Dragon Roll of crabmeat, avocado, tempura shrimp, eel and eel sauce.

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The Dragon itself sports jagged scales of taro paper. The gallery of SPECIAL ROLLS marching across snowy white platters deserve notice, each one with a different set of textures.

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IMG_7780This high regard for sushi and sashimi comes as no surprise.  Chef Sean An’s fish and seafood creations at the two original Slow Fish locations on the Miracle Mile and in Huntington Beach, inspired by the slow food movement, are acclaimed for freshness and sustainability.

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Kevin Kang’s sophisticated festive atmosphere celebrates the concept of Izakaya by Slowfish.  The designer’s muscular, organic WEHO exterior features bold wood and metal lines accented in red and chocolate colors.  The low slung, inviting interior looks out onto a snug patio in front.  Cheery, pop-art, painted cushions on the bench seats throughout the room and on wall hangings bring a sunny California feel. The Korean symbol framed under glass on one wall translates into “strength.” Whimsical Asian paintings enliven other walls.

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Customers can order at the counter near the door for quick service. Manager Iren Kim and her crew are there to welcome and host guests.IMG_6896 (1)

Opening Specials and dishes are being offered now.

Izakaya By Slowfish, 8267 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood, CA, 90046 (323) 745-0533. //izakayaslowfish.com/.

Anar Indian Restaurant: Food Guided by The Heart

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(By Adréana Robbins) Anar reminds me of the quaint local canteens and hidden taverns I discovered living in Paris and Southern France. My parents and I felt most fortunate when we stumbled upon family-run bistros, offering the most inventive French Provençal, or Moroccan, or Vietnamese cuisine. Often a secret ingredient to a restaurant’s success was the talented couple behind it.

IMG_7264Sometimes the wife slaved away in the kitchen, other times the husband, and soon enough we became part of their family dynamic, feeling always welcomed like a long, lost relative. Anar has the same intimate feel and personal touch, as if you’re dining in someone’s private home.

Anar’s décor is tasteful with bright Indian tablecloths and fine art; a recent fresh coat of red-brick and mustard-yellow paint adds a festive touch to the dining room. Booths line the walls, which are perfect for romantic dinners, or a feeling of privacy. Large parties can easily be accommodated. IMG_7269

Our epicurean group sat at a comfortable, ample-sized wooden table. Being a guest, at a tasting lunch, I cannot comment on the service; however, since one of the dedicated owners is almost always present, I imagine the staff to be gracious with every client.

Second-generation restaurateur, Amir, and his wife, Janet, are involved in every aspect of the family business. Janet, with her El Salvadorian roots, and Amir, whose parents emigrated from Bangladesh, are the most hospitable pair. “I put love into my food and that makes all the difference,” says Amir. The restaurateur grew up in his father’s kitchen and began cooking at the age of 18. Amir’s father owns Anarkali, a popular Los Angeles Indian restaurant—open since 1983.

Staying true to Amir’s southern Bangladeshi roots, Anar offers a wide variety of seafood along with more standard northern Indian meat dishes. Meals often begin with the ubiquitous  Paneer and Onion Pakuras that are dipped in curry powder, turmeric, and deep fried in chickpea flour to give them their deep color and crunch. IMG_7203The Vegetable Samosas are stuffed with sweet, curried peas and potatoes. Each appetizer comes with a grouping of condiments: Chat Masala Onion Chutney, Mango Chutney, Raita and Cilantro Chutney.

IMG_7191The beef, lamb and chicken Tikkas have just the right touch of smoky char from being cooked in a tandoori oven.

Combination plates are popular and served in  generous portions. The platter comes with an accompaniment of traditional white basmati (to IMG_7243balance out the flavors).They have my favorite Saag Paneer; Anar’s spinach tastes exceptionally fresh without being overly salted.  Aloo Gobi, perfectly seasoned cauliflower and potatoes, and a standout Chicken Tikka Masala; the velvety texture and aromatic spices of Anar’s Masala is hands-down the best I’ve ever tasted. IMG_7214In addition, Anar makes their own paneer—a guarantee the cheese will always taste fresh, even after being cooked with onions and spices. Other dishes to try include Lamb Rogin Josh, sweet and succulent IMG_7240chunks of tender meat in a rich tomato sauce; Mixed Tandoori Grill, a generous serving of the appetizer version with bigger pieces of grilled chicken, beef and lamb. And for those who are especially hungry, the Chicken Biryani is hearty and flavorful: sautéed with onions, peas, turmeric and a touch of gheeIMG_7247
Fish lovers will appreciate the tender Salmon Tikka: boneless filets, marinated in yogurt, herbs and spices; it is one of the most popular on the menu. Shellfish aficionados should indulge in the plump Curried Mussels Masala, better quality and size (which matters in this case) than Bouchon Bistro in Beverly Hills. (Sorry, Thomas Keller, but Anar packs bigger muscles!) Prepared in the popular and fragrant Tikka Masala sauce, the blend of cinnamon, cardamom, Garam Masala, cream and sugar, allow the juicy muscles to melt in your mouth.

Ordering is simple from the well thought-out menu at Anar. However, the staff is more than pleased to add their special recommendations for the asking.  Since I adore seafood, Amir brought these dishes for my liking.  Every meal preference and spice level can be accommodated for the asking, too. Most of the dishes we had were mildly spiced, but we tasted one amped-up and chili-infused Vegan Tofu Masala, which would satisfy those with piquant cravings.

For beverages, the Nimbu Pani: fresh squeezed limes with ginger and mint is ultra refreshing.  Anar also makes a spiced Iced Black Tea, but neither of the drinks were my favorite. IMG_7228However, the third drink I tasted was the homemade freshly made Mango Lassi. And this drink took me back to a memory of swimming and sunbathing and waterskiing at a tropical lake near Acapulco, Mexico. It was as if I had just taken a bite out of a tree picked mango, juice dripping down my face, hot sun warming my skin, the young man beside me, tanned and ripped . . . well, I won’t go there, but it’s understandable why the drink is so popular, with its perfect balance of fruity sweetness and tartness from the plain yogurt. The drink is so popular that Anar gives it special attention for takeout orders.

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To guarantee freshness, like a private Beverly Hills juice club, the restaurant gives out plastic labeled bottles exclusively prepared for the mango creation. I took a bottle home and had a second Mango Lassi for dinner; it tasted just as delicious.

On that sweet and generous note, Janet takes pride in creating all of Anar’s desserts. IMG_7255She makes the not-to-be-missed Kulfi (Indian ice-cream) in chocolate, pistachio, coconut and mango. The chocolate is an Indian restaurant novelty, inspired by her Latin heritage and passion for chocolate. Indian cooks add rose water and cardamom pods to their desserts; Central American dessert makers add cinnamon only. Janet knows how to work with both flavors, making her creations exceptional and unique. Other more traditional treats include Gulab Jamun, soft milk balls soaked in syrup and rosewater, and Kheer, Indian rice pudding fragrant with cardamom and cinnamon.IMG_7254

Discovering new dishes and restaurants is a great perk of food writing; I’m especially grateful to have been introduced to Anar. The restaurant is proof that Los Angeles shopping arcades now hold some of the city’s best dining establishments. Even so, I’m embarrassed to say that I’ve lived in the Hollywood area for over eight years, have probably driven past the restaurant over a thousand times, and never noticed it. Tucked away in a congested strip mall on Cahuenga and Yucca, just south of Franklin, Anar can easily be missed. But what it lacks in glitz and glamor, it makes up for with its food and ample free parking. It’s also an ideal locale for pre or post theatre or concert dining. The Pantages and The Hollywood Bowl are in walking distance, and so is Sunset and Vine. Still, you must remember that you’re in the heart of Hollywood, so don’t let the busy liquor store nearby, or the strung-out rock-n-rollers, ambling about outdoors, or the lost and frazzled tourists—dissuade you from entering Anar—it’s a hidden treasure.

Moreover, I’m a huge fan of Indian culture and cuisine. And every opportunity I can, I like to read literature about India. One of my recent favorites is Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts, who wrote: “The simple and astonishing truth about India and Indian people is that when you go there, and deal with them, your heart guides you more wisely than your head . . .” So let Anar take you to the tastes of India—where you can be certain—the food the will feed your heart and soul.

Anar Restaurant, 1807 N. Cahuenga Blvd Los Angeles, CA, 90028 (323) 466-0422.
www.anarla.com

(Editor’s Note) Anar is part of the historic Anarkali Restaurant dynasty in Los Angeles, whose Chicken Tikka Masala and Mango Lassi  have become the benchmark for these ubiquitous dishes.   choudhurySecond generation Anar owners add to their legacy by bottling their fresh drinks to keep the taste pure ever since they became the the area’s new take-out sensation.

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Syrian SUCRE Sweets Parisian Ice Cream & Bakeshop

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2016-03-08 16.18.37 (1)SUCRE Sweets Parisian Ice Cream & Bakeshop with its treasures of Syrian-influenced pastries sits demurely through the archway from Souk Shawarma, it’s savory “big brother” next door.  And well it should — owner-pastry chef, Lauren is the younger sister of chef-owner, Andrew Faour, who partners with Chef Matt Carpenter in the venture.

The bold red walls of Souk,  photo mural with scenes of a middle eastern market (“souk”in Arabic) and the fiery horizontal shawarma grill give way to a sparkling white gem of a bakery and ice cream counter.

And there your eye falls on what appear to be familiar middle eastern sweets – an assortment of French macaron, Kataifi Greek pastry, cookies, Baklava, Madeleines and ice cream.  Your eye does not know where to look first!  Rows of packaged, high quality, classic candy bars and tins of candy stand behind There are rose water Madeleines.  The brownies are in the shape of petalled flowers and are infused with cardamom and pistachios.

The Kataifi is made with thin strands of the classic angel hair pasta- like dough that when rolled up resembles shredded wheat.

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But this “Kataifi” has the name tag Knaffe.  And instead of the treat being soaked in a sweet syrup, it has a cream center and shavings of pistachio uts on top!2016-03-08 16.24.09

2016-03-08 15.53.58The coconut macaroon is chocolate covered.  The ice cream is rose water flavor.

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And the shortbread pressed cookie is a Ma’amoul.  These cookies, popular in Levantine cuisine and in the Gulf countries, can be in the shape of balls or domed or flat cookies.  This pressed one was made in a wooden mold is especially pretty and enticing.  Ma’amoul with date fillings are called menenas, but this one is filled with a fig preserve!

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Each one was so unique and delicious the two of us dining ordered an assorted box to go.  Chef Lauren carefully placed the Kataifi in a separate fold-over plastic, with a very small plastic container of syrup.   I presented mine to a discerning Greek art professor who was speechless when she opened the box.  They are deserving of the term, “Parisian,” delicate, subtle and rich.  The love that goes into them is also very much apparent.  Brava, Lauren.

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SUCRE Sweets Parisian Ice Cream & Bakeshop, 1111 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 104, Los Angeles, CA  90017 (213-935-8559. Monday-Friday, 11 AM -9 PM, Saturday, 11 AM – 6PM.

Syrian Savories at New Souk Shawarma in LA

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2016-03-08 14.03.31(Gerry Furth-Sides) “Souk” (market in Arabic) is an intriguing enough name to draw restaurant.  What brings people back to the recently opened Souk Shawarma Cafe is the soul-filled food of chef partners (Syrian-American ) Andrew Faour and (Jamaican-American) Matt Carpenter.

Souk stands as the only U.S. restaurant where you can find wood burning shawarma over a horizontal rotisserie offering seven different kinds of shawarma including chicken, duck, beef, lamb, soujouk and merguez, as well as a vegan soy protein.  The partners patterned the authentic Middle Eastern cafe  on the casual strolling market.  They recently added to their evolving menu a house-made Aleppo-style and a Merguez Moroccan-style lamb sausage.

“Both Matthew and I each travelled all around the world, bringing back experiences with spices and pairings with us,” reports Chef Andrew.  “These new sausages combine our own visions with traditional preparations.”

The pair first joined forces to create the wildly popular Momed Mediterranean menu for Alex Sarkissian in Beverly Hills.  They then became owners of the own restaurant, The Pub at Chino Hills.  

They became a marketing force there, There they learned how to make unusual global fare appealing to a suburban crowd by making familiar ingredients more prominent in their menu descriptions, and by including lots of fun American fare (think, duck fat drizzled freshly popped corn).(//localfoodeater.com/secret-global-menu-pub-chino-hills/).  The lesson at Souk Shawarma is make their highest quality ingredients  affordable with counter ordering and self-serve side dishes in containers.

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Andrew and Matt describe  Souk Shawarma as being “100%  chef-driven
concept, our brain-child of two chefs who have spent their time on the line, in the trenches, working the typical chef 8-day work week with 18+ hour days.  It is the type of restaurant concept serving the type of food that we want to eat after a long shift.  It is the ‘perfect little concept’ that we always wanted to have.  It is our ‘taco truck,’ and has our heart and soul in every detail, every aspect, every recipe — with every detail pondered over.”

2016-03-08 14.20.26This time around Andrew’s Syrian background comes to the fore.  The “secret force” for the shawarma is a horizontal rotisserie grill which keeps moisture in the meat as it is being basted in its own juices while being cooked.  Chef Matt is happy because he gets to “play” with his favorite ingredient, duck, which stars on the grill menu along with beef, lamb and chicken.

Chef Roberta Deen, Capers Catering Owner and former Bon Appetit Magazine recipe tester, and I  were silent as we relished a sampling of the wraps and side dishes.   Each one was filled with vibrant, perfectly balanced flavors and the characteristic unexpected pop of the spices and herbs that Chef Andrew and Chef Matt became known for at their previous venues. 2016-03-08 14.04.04 The food lived up to the mission statement on the wall of SPICE, FIRE and SOUL.  Laughed Matt, “we honor traditions and we do this by infusing a new take on the familiar dishes and flavors of the middle east here.”

The descriptions alone are mouth-watering.  All natural Duck Shawarma ($9.99 for a wrap and $2 extra for a plate with salad), mixed with all natural hormone free turkey is marinated in Souk’s signature wet marinade and served with piquillo peppers, fig spread, oven-blistered tomatoes, house-made garlic sauce and Souk mix.  Laughs Chef Matt, “we have to mix it with turkey or we’d have a $30 wrap here.”  The duck leg and thigh are used for a more hearty dark meat flavor, and the fig chutney adds to the richness.

The Souk Mix is red onions, herb salad & sumac — an oil with a definitely addicting taste.  Uncommonly used except as a sprinkle on some Middle eastern and Ethiopian dishes,  it is a welcome addition here.

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The new House- Made Aleppo- Style Sausage is a Middle Eastern- style sausage made in-house with all natural, hormone free ground chuck and pork shoulder (the only pork product on the menu).  The wrap is served with oven-blistered tomatoes, Souk mix, muhammara spread (red pepper and walnut), Urfa chili, pickled carrots and roasted bell peppers.  ($7.99 wrap and $2 extra for a plate with salad).

2016-03-08 14.55.33Moroccan- style lamb  headlines the new  Merquez Shawarma, a spicy sausage made in-house with ground Halal lamb, spices and herbs, served with roasted onions, peppers, tomatoes, piquillo sauce and Souk mix.  ($7.99 in a wrap and $2 extra for a plate with salad).  Unlike most sausage, the Merguez Moroccan-style does not use a casing but is instead free-formed on skewers and directly cooked over the open flame.2016-03-08 15.10.44
The Halal beef Soujouk Sausage is served with roasted onions, piquillo peppers, house-made garlic sauce, oven-blistered tomatoes and Souk mix. ($9.99 in a wrap and $2 extra for a plate with salad).

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For the “Non-Carnivore” there is a chickpeas and fava beans falafel, crispy-on-the-outside and tender in the middle,seasoned with Souk’s signature blend of herbs and spices, served with green tahini sauce, pickled turnips, oven blistered tomatoes, mixed greens and Souk mix.  (The Wrap is $7.49 and the plate $2 more).  Shown at right is the Popcorn Falafel ($4.99), served with green tahini sauce and pickled turnips for a glorious burst of color on the plate.

Andrew’s words describe the idea behind the small, casual dining room as “Soul of the Souk.” The Arabic souk” is filled with “row after row of merchants and vendors lining the streets.  The sights and smells of toasting nuts, dried chilies, succulent eggplant, fresh herbs, spices of every color and texture you can imagine forming perfect, vibrant pyramids along the way.  The produce from the farmer, the lamb and chicken from the butchers are all on display.

2016-03-08 14.17.13 The sounds of the men and women bartering as small children dart between the stalls, laughing and playing.

“The intention of Souk Shawarma  is a journey home for those with childhood memories laced with family trips down to the souk.  You eagerly await the meat as it is shaved and layered into piping hot pita bread, topped with chopped salad, tahini, fries (The generous portion of Za’Tar Fries or French Fries at $3.99 with enough to share for 3-4 people, shown above , are prepared with Za ‘Tar and garlic sauce for dipping. Souk Fries or French Fries at $7.99 are topped with beef shawarma, feta cheese, harissa, green onions and pickles– a nod to the American bar crowd.  It is the perfect balance of timeless tradition and modern fare for those experiencing the flavor of the Middle East for the first time.  Andrew’s was to create just a small window into the vast culture and the flavorful cuisine of the region.

Andrew Faour, who grew up in an Arab household, where “delicious food was always cooking in the house” realized his passion for food even as a youngster – though never expected to go into such an uncertain and grueling business as the food industry.  So, after earning a business degree from Azusa Pacific University, he added a degree from the Le Cordon Bleu in Hollywood.  There he met teacher Mathew Carpenter.   Several years later, the two teamed up, witih Matthew as his co-owner and co-chef, to “create their dream culinary experience.” They utilized Matthew’s culinary expertise with Andrews business savvy to recreate a classic British gastropub with imaginative fine dining and high-end craft beers, wines and spirits at practical prices.

2016-03-08 14.31.53At Souk Shawarma, prices in the neighborhood just outside gentrified downtown Los Angeles are made possible with counter ordering and many of the side dishes packaged in a refrigerated self-serve  “Grab and Go Case,”  such as the Spicy Eggplant shown at left.

There is also a Vegan Shawarma made with non-GMO soy protein, seasoned with Souk’s signature blend of herbs and spices, tahini sauce, oven blistered tomatoes and Souk mix.

Also in the “Grab and Go Case” is a Greek Salad and a fashionable Spinach and Kale Salad (each $7.99)  with a middle eastern touch of medjool dates plus a walnut and herb dressing.  The Fattoush Salad has the characteristic snap of  middle eastern fare byway of breakfast radishes, cucumbers, bell peppers, green onions, crispy pita in a on a bed of mixed greens.

My Greek art professor friends tried Souk Shawarma on a Saturday evening.  Her comment: “I had Greek salad. We loved the food, didn’t like the plastic containers and the oil in the dressing was frozen from the fridge. They close too early but I understand they are not in a crowded area.”

What made up for this, and what tempted the group in the first place were the bakery goods next door Oh.  Through an archway from the rich clay and red-walled room of savories is Andrew’s sister Lauren’s sparkling white bakery of delicate, rich sweets.2016-03-08 14.37.04

Souk Shawarma, 1111 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 104, Los Angeles, CA  90017 (213-935-8373. Monday-Friday, 11 AM -9 PM, Saturday, 11 AM – 7 PM.  www.soukshawarma.com.  Follow Souk Shawarma on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

Baja Streetfare Inspires SOL COCINA

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Sol Cocina decor – a darkened oasis in the midst of the noonday desert heat

(Gerry Furth-Sides)  The best indication of SOL COCINA’s  personality  was already seen on opening nights when the restaurant pulled out all the stops  — like offering a tray of tequila drinks as a guests greeting even before they stepped in the door.  The third location of this Arizona based company offers a posh bathing hole in a specially build complex of restaurants and amidst massive new housing to highly paid, high tech staffers working at new neighborhood start ups.  The concept paid off in a short time with these staffers headed to Sol Cocina for happy hour and staying the evening!

Even the menu is bound in rich, Mexican leather

Spunky, Executive Chef and partner in the SOL COCINA Playa Vista group, Deborah Schneider’s Baja cuisine makes a statement because is rooted in authentic flavors from her extensive research and work in the kitchen, and updated to include local, fresh ingredients. partner in the restaurant group, author of six Mexican cookbooks.  Chef de Cuisine, Tia Baker oversees the kitchen here.

Sol Chef Tia Baker

Sol Cocina’s Chef de Cuisine, Tia Baker

SOL COCINA’s Playa Vista boasts of a “naturally wonderful” naked guacamole” and a list of Margarita’s as long as your arm.  There is something to please every taste.  The jalapeño/cucumber margarita is spicy.   Bubbles and Berries, composed of muddled strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, lime juice and agave with tequila, Cointreau and a splash of sparkling white wine is, of course, fruit forward and sweet.

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The Chile frozen margarita, with a chile and salt rim stars at Sol Cocina

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The expansive restaurant has the room to make a mind-boggling array of ingredients to their make-your-own guacamole bar, including the unexpected to add to avocado, such as nopales, chile-dusted dried mango, pineapple, chipotle shrimp,  raspberries and blackberries and pineapple.

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naked guacamole at SOL COCINA

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An outside window counter is perfect to set up the naked guacamole bar at SOL COCINA

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The inside view of the outside window counter

As a paleo, it was thrilling to discover that SOL COCINA Playa Vista’s  barbarcoa in in a class of its own.

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And being a Baja style restaurant there are many seafood choices on the menu, including stunning seafood samplers, whole (!) fish, oysters, crab, shrimp, ceviche and more.

 

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(photo courtesy of Sol Cocina)

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Desserts are rich and often chocolaty such as the  dark chocolate banana bread pudding and flan. Along with the friendly service and elegant interior that seems to go on forever and grant everyone their own space, the festive desserts make Sol Cocina perfect to celebrate special occasions.

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Friendliness is key at Sol Cocina

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The private room at Sol Cocina sets the tone for the most formal of parties

Sol Cocina Playa Vista,  12775 W Millennium Dr., Los Angeles, CA 90094. Tel: (424) 289-0066.

Brand New Masters of Taste Features Global Cuisine

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Birch Chef, Brendon Collins

(Gerry Furth-Sides) When people ask me for favorite restaurants of mine to try I recommend going to an events and try a lot at one time!  For everyone looking to sample a number of gourmet global dishes from a variety of   unique restaurants in the Pasadena area, as well as new restaurants to Los Angeles,  Masters of Taste, presents a new, outdoor, luxury festival on Sunday, April 3rd, 2016 from 3:00 pm to 7:00 pm on the field of the Historic Pasadena Rose Bowl.  

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Masters of Taste brings L.A.’s Top Master Tastemakers together for one afternoon to celebrate all realms of taste.  Culinary Masters and restaurants number 40, along with an array of signature sweets prepared by L.A.’s finest Sweet Masters.  Signature handcrafted cocktails and tastings from over 25 Beverage Masters include cocktail bars, wineries, local craft breweries, pressed juices and hand roasted coffee.  Lifestyle activations, live entertainment add to the day.  Approximately 2,500 influential food and beverage enthusiasts from throughout the Greater Los Angeles area purchased tickets.

Just seeing the light in the eye of Chef Calagero Drago of the family Drago family (here looking like a member of Andy Garcia’s family) and specifically of Drago Ristorante & Panzanella,  is proof of the high calibre and excitement of the event. Chef Calagero Drago, Celestino ristorante &nPanzanella

The hit of the recent spring Food Fare was a Drago family recipe for mushroom soup with truffles.  Their pasta dishes make a paleo love a complete meal of carbs.

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Chefs include the former  “bad boy” of offals Brendan Collins, formerly of Waterloo & City, currently  of Birch Restaurant.  Executive Chef Collins who has always delighted with something special at food events is now even more of an attraction as an elder statesman of the Los Angeles culinary world with two successful restaurants.Chef Brendan Collins, Birch

Collins has worked closely with Inothetke’s Executive Chef-owner Carolos Tomazos, which opened early this year and is a rare restaurant offering Greek gourmet cuisine.  Tomazos himself has an impressive track record of helping extraordinary restaurants achieve their success, including Thomas Keller’s Per Se in New York.  (You can read about Inothetke at://localfoodeater.com/inotheke-modern-greek-cuisine-comes-to-santa-monica, and at http:localfoodeater.com/inothetke.)

IMG_4800SOL COCINA Playa Vista adds the dishes of Chef de Cuisine, Tia Baker.  This new restaurant pulled out all the stops at its opening — with a tray of tequila drinks greeting guests even before they stepped in the door.  (Read about SOL at: //localfoodeater.com/baja-streetfare-inspires-sol-cocina)Sol Chef Tia Baker

unspecified-5Toca Maderas Chef Raymond Alvarez (see below) will provide the impetus and the complement to SOL as the second Latin restaurant.

Toca Maders Chef Raymond Alvarez

The beneficiary of Masters of Taste will be Union Station Homeless Services, a 501(c)3 nonprofit organization committed to helping homeless men, women and children rebuild their lives. Headquartered in Pasadena, the agency is the San Gabriel Valley’s largest social service agency assisting homeless and very low-income adults and families through an array of services including street outreach, meals, shelter, housing, case management and career development. Since 1973, Union Station Homeless Services has helped thousands of people who were once homeless and without hope. 100% of the proceeds from this year’s event will go directly to Union Station Homeless Services.

Ticket Information:  Masters of Taste will take place on Sunday, April 3rd, 2016. A VIP Power Hour will be held from 3:00 pm to 4:00 pm and General Admission will be from 4:00 pm to 7:00 pm. For more information on Masters of Taste or to book your tickets directly, please visit www.MastersofTasteLA.com/Tickets.  A full list of Masters of Taste participants is also on the website.

Photo Credit:  Courtesy of the Historic Pasadena Rose Bowl

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Ten Best European Desserts Go Mainstream in LA

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12Jun01-163(Gerry Furth-Sides) Ten to try European desserts either on the way to becoming American mainstream or there already are a welcome addition to the “usual suspects” stuck on too many restaurant menus.  Even if you are not a dessert lover, these might change your mind; they did change mine.

Canales at Proof, Atwater; Bouchon, Got Kosher?Bakery sometimes.

I have tried them all over the city, and these are the best. A more objective authority than I, French Tart, described them at “magical French bakery confections, little fluted cakes with a rich rum and vanilla interior enclosed by a thin caramelized shell. The brilliant recipe was developed long ago by an anonymous Bordeaux cook…. then subjected to 300 years of refinements. Glossy and dark brown, almost black at first sight, bittersweet at first bite, thecrunchy burnt sugar canale-shell makes an exquisite contract to the smooth, sweet filling. One day they may rival crème brulee.” They are baked in special, difficult to find, tin-lined copper molds. Fact: They sell out at Proof by 10 AM and usually at Bouchon by noon. They are popular at laduree and Pierre Herme in Paris. In Gironde, a southern region of French, alone consumed over 4.5 million canals annually as long ago as 1992.

Olive oil cake at Saddlepeak Lodge and Dominick’s

This textured, light cake has a hint of orange and the cornmeal that is made of gives it a slightly crunchy texture. The olive oil makes it moist without being greasy.   The pastry chef at Saddlepeak serves it with drops of lemon curd, buttermilk ice cream and fresh strawberry slices.

(www.saddlepeaklodge.com), (www.dominick’s.com)

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Marino ristorante Ricotta Cheesecake

The Ricotta cheesecake looks “sorta” like the NY version but it is made in-house from a family recipe with freshly made ricotta, that lends it a more rustic and substantial feel, and dotted with dried citrus fruit.   It has two pages on Google devoted to it. Enough said.

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Traditional Moroccan Almond Macaron at Got Kosher? Bakery

They look like a winsome, round, cracked piece of clay. They are just big enough for one or two bites, almost stepping in for one layer of the Marjolaine with the snap and the uniquely satisfying taste of almond paste, just enough of the chewy quality of a cookie and the zing of a hint of lemon.

Chef Josette’s Mini Pastries at Normandie Bakery

Chef Josette intensifies flavors by reducing the size of pastries, including Opera Cake with its hint of coffee; Fresh Fruit tarts, German Cake, Chocolate Mousse Cake and cream puffs.    (www.chefjosette.net)

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Pastry Plate by special order– Modo Mio in Pacific Palisades

The Sweet Nuns’ stacked ream puffs are known as “religieuses.” The bakery’s original, classic num version are endearing tiny French pastries made of “chous” filled with custard-like cream. They can also be ordered in the shape of little birds and angels. Sweet NunsThis is a family affair Veronique, a pastry chef from Paris just happens to be the owner’s wife and by special order, she will prepare her specialties that taste like they come from the heart. In her words,” I just love to go into the kitchen and bake and bake and bake.”ModoMio30th-LR-9808-WM

(modomiocucinarustica.com), (//www.thesweetnuns.com)

Tres Leches Cake, AROLatin, South Pasadena, and Border Grill, Santa Monica

Another wife that loves to bake in home for the restaurant is at AroLatin in South Pasadena. Her Pan Tres Leches reflects her central American background, and it is moist, substantial and light (Three milks bread) is a sponge cake soaked in three kinds of milk: evaporated, condensed and heavy cream.   Mary Sue Milliken, whose heart remains true to her first love of being a pastry chef, has just done a new and springy individual, round version that is served with fruit.

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Vanilla Bean Trio of Triangle Scones at Starbucks

Corporate tried to take them off the menu but popular demand brings them back. The actual specs of bean in the vanilla glaze was what first attracted me to them in the first place, the refined, slightly sweet bisquity texture under the delicate gaze keeps me coming back.   My family friends’ 10 year old, I recently learned, loves them too and the three are perfect to share with one for me!

(www.starbucks.com)

Hot Fudge Sundae at The Ivy, La Scala, and Norm’s:  We bill this under “Americana” and because it comes as a surprise both at white tablecloth restaurants, The IvyLa Scala and Dominick’s – where price of a generous sundae is as  as surprisingly low as at Norm’s. The sundaes have real hot fudge, real whipped cream and superb ice cream (the Ivy adds a second choice of butterscotch in small pitchers on the platter plus marconda almonds and lets you “do it yourself” with three scoops of different housemade icecreams.   Norms serves a “schooner” that is as tall as you are and the hot fudge is real hot fudge.

Lemon Hazelnut Torte at The Annenberg Beach House, Il Form

The Torte is a pared down, more elegant California version of the Marjolaine, which has for me every single ingredient makes a cake perfect: layers of crunchy praline,  ground nuts and marshmallowy meringue with the added surprise of citrus.  How can you not love anything so labor intensive and difficult as its small layers with fillings of praline, buttercream, vanilla-rum buttercream and chocolate buttercream. The Lemon Hazelnut has instead lemon curd and buttercream, the better to contrast flavors as well as textures, my dear.  

I rode my bike six miles to and from the Rose Café to eat one of these beauties at least once a week or more,, and years before the pastry chef changed the shape from a cake wedge to the lovely singular, circular one. This chef worked under the incomparable Amy Pressman, Nancy Silverton’s colleague who was to be her partner at Short Order Restaurant. These are arguably the two most original and best pastry chefs to come out of Los Angeles.

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Mount Blanc and Almond Covered Cherry at Susina Bakery

Another single bite as satisfying as a big piece of Susina’s gorgeous cake, pie or pastry. The Mount Blanc is a third of a cigar shaped butter cookie, half covered in chocolate and almonds. The Almond Covered Cherry has a hint of liquor.

Global Cuisine for a Global Cause at PPLA Food Fare 2016

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) The Inimitable Chef Celestine Drago’s wide smile (above) says it all about the event of the season, Planned Parenthood Food Fare,  now over a quarter century running.  And so does the playful grin of another regular icon, Chef Mary Sue Milliken of Border Grill (below). Chef Celestin0 was an honoree of the event recently, and Mary Sue and partner Susan Feniger were two of the first honorees a few years ago.  It’s been a joy both to help and enjoy supporting this great health/educational organization since I first did a Newsweek TV broadcast at the Sherman Oaks clinic!
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A variety of Global cuisine is part of the eclectic food station presentations at Planned Parenthood Food Fare, March 3,  2016. Over 100 chefs, restaurants and caterers serve dishes that cover European and  Asian comfort and fusion foods from appetizers to desserts plus gourmet dishes they prepare uniquely for  Food Fare. (below is Mario Marino, a 6th year participant, with the restaurant’s signature cheesecake)

2013-11-25 20.04.03The event is top notch because it is produced by the PPLA Guild, a group of ladies that spends the entire year preparing for it.  It is so much fun to see the third generation of “helpers” just as excited as their moms and grandmas.

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Planned Parenthood Food Fare is returning to Santa Monica’s Barker Hangar on Thursday, March 3, 2016. Some of last year’s favorite returning participants include Tatami Sushi, Momed, Angelini Osteria, Lucques, Il Piccolo Verde, Porta Via, Ayara Thai Cuisine, Marino Ristorante.  New restaurants include Mayura Restaurant, considered to be among one of the top 100 restaurants of all cuisines in Los Angeles.  An Catering by Crustacean will also participate.  Cappuccino Man and Kikori Whiskey will pour, along with other  coffee, wine, beer and spirits purveyors.

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More tempting than any high end boutique are the clothing and gift vendors at one end of the hall.  These days items that are not food-related are also shown.

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This is the perfect way to visit old restaurant friends and meet new ones in one day.  For example, Mayura restaurant is superb way to be introduced to a regional Indian food from the Kerela area.

IMG_2639Venice Boulevard in West Los Angeles, with its many blocks dotted with Indian restaurants, sweet and spice shops and even a major temple, has evolved into a “Little India” second only to Artesia. And Mayura Indian Restaurant has become the official star of the show, in part due to the blessing of a prominent LA Times writer’s top 100 list.

Welcome to your new savory bakery with dough starring in half the menu sections.  Perfect and unique dosas, uthappam, idly, naan, kulcha, parathas, porotta, poori, chapatti and roti, every one of which will make anyone forget the word, paleo. The treats are stuffed with or served with chutneys, veggies, potato, tamarind instead of more butter and jam.

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There are close to 20 Dosas, paper-thin crepes made of fermented rice and lentil batter, grilled to a crispy gold and prepared with an abundance of ghee.  To give an idea of how thin the dosa dough among their list of 22, the crepes are accurately labeled “paper.” (filled crepe like) Spring dosas are filled with carrot, pea, potato and other veggies.  The piped mashed potatoes may seem like too much “frosting on a starch cake,” but they to go together perfectly with the dosa.

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For a complete list of participating restaurants, beverage purveyors and vendors, and ticket, please visit www.pplafoodfare.com.  Tickets can also be purchased by calling (213) 284-3300. Advance purchase tickets for Food Fare 2015 are $150 for the daytime session (11:00 AM – 2:00 PM) and $250 for the evening session (6:30 PM – 9:30 PM). PPLA Food Fare 2016 will take place on Thursday, March 3, 2016 at Barker Hangar located at 3021 Airport Ave, Santa Monica, CA 90405. Sponsorship packages are available. For more information, please visit www.pplafoodfare.com.

About Food Fare & Planned Parenthood Los Angeles Guild
Food Fare began in 1979 with a cooking demonstration by Julia Child and has grown over the last 37 years to become one of Los Angeles’ oldest and most celebrated food events. An annual event, Food Fare is highly anticipated by food lovers, PPLA supporters and the general public as an opportunity to sample the best food and drinks LA has to offer. Food Fare is hosted by the Planned Parenthood Los Angeles Guild, a group of over 170 women dedicated to providing financial and volunteer support for PPLA.

About Planned Parenthood Los Angeles
PPLA’s 20 health centers throughout Los Angeles County provide care to nearly 150,000 women, men, and teens each year. Over 93% of the care PPLA provides is preventative, including life-saving cancer screenings, birth control, annual exams, and STD testing and treatment.  PPLA’s education and community outreach programs reach nearly 60,000 women, men and teens in Los Angeles County each year.

An American LOTERIA!GRILL! Grill Mexican Paradise

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2016-02-12 19.17.02-1Devoted American chef, Jimmy Shaw, continues to popularize his own version of Mexican cuisine at the jam-packed Loteria! Grill restaurant on the Third Street Promenade.   You don’t know where to look first in the open air cantina designed by Richard Altuna. Floor to ceiling back-lit cubicles filled with shiny bottles on a mustard color wall, angling back into squares of paintings on a tomato background; a life-size portrait of a Loteria playing card next to it and signature lotería cards playfully placed throughout the room that features a dining room and a full bar.

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The extraordinarily friendly staff is also professional and trained(they answer the phone when you phone the restaurant; rare these days!) And it is a family and kid-friendly dining place, where the noise level isn’t affected too much anyway. We were invited into the back area, where it looks as if you are in a forest if you look out this rear window. Shaw and his designer actually planted the greens behind the restaurant. The illusion of the forest is because the another row of greens lines the Millkin Institute across the alley. And you see a gallery of art if your eye falls third long wall filled with boxed artwork.

Not much of a chance you’ll look at anything but the cooks when a performance kitchen lines the other long wall and it is quite a performance. This is especially true when jovial Chef Jimmy is at the stove.

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Chef Jimmy Shaw himself brought out Lotería’s chicharrón de queso to the front dining room. This is a showstopper dish. If Sammy had stayed in the kitchen, she would have seen a cook spread out shredded cheeses on a grill to form a crisp circle. Once it is cooked, it is folded into a cone and served with tortillas and salsa verde. It almost looks like a roughhouse version of an Southern indian dosa.

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While waiting for dinner, we had the Guacamole Y Totopos, the freshest guacamole and crispy house-made chips. Among the starters are enough choices to please any number of kids in a family at just the right size.

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Not exactly known as “kid’s stuff,” but loved by kids anyway is the shrimp cocktail or Coctel De Camaron. In this version, the shrimp is served Acpulco-Style, in a Tomato and Orange Salsa with chopped tomato, onion, cucumber and avocado.

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We also were able to experience the “specials of the specials” and what makes The Third Street Promenade Loteria so special. The most popular “specials” from the other locations.   Fish ranks high on the list. For example, we tried the moist Huachinango A La VeraCruzana, a Pan-seared Red Snapper in Tomato, Onion,. Olive and Caper Sauce with Black Beans, White Rice and Plantains. Shrimp is a choice for this dish, instead of fish. We also tried the Sea Bass Al Morita, a pan-seared Sea Bass in Smoky and very Spicy Chile Morita Sauce with spinach and white rice. Excellent. Fish dishes include halibut or sea bass in morita sauce, mahi mahi in chipotle sauce.

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Next time we’re having the mouth watering Lengua De Res en Salsa Verde, Braised Beef Tongue, stewed in Tomatillo sauce with Avocado, White Rice and Black Beans, and the Carnitas En Salsa Morita, the Pork Carnitas Michoacan-style, in a very spicy chile Morita Sauce, served with Avocado, onion and cilantro white rice and black beans.

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And this doesn’t even include the long lists of tacos, enchiladas and specialty plates!   And the Vegetable, pork, beef and chicken dishes!  And tequilas and mescals!

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Loteria turns out to be a Mexican game very much like bingo. Playing cards with colorful images are used instead of tokens. The game is played by people of all ages.  Shaw commissioned a Oaxacan artist to do the artwork Alebrijes is the name of the folk art figures.

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1251 3rd Street Promenade, Santa Monica, CA 90401. www.loteriagrill.com, 310.393.2700.

Inotheke Refines Cypriot Greek Home Cooking

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Ask almost any Greek where to find the Greek cuisine, and they will almost invariable answer, “at home.”  Carlos Tomazos is no exception although he prefers to share what he – or his mother when he was growing up on the island of Cyprus – prepared at home in his new contemporary, casual restaurant, Inotheke, in Santa Monica, now open for lunch (see //localfoodeater.com/inotheke-modern-greek-cuisine-comes-to-santa-monica).

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Hints of the Mediterranean Island, Cyprus, (Tomazos’ homeland) shine through each dish with bright olive oils, global spices and fresh herbs.  Inotheke menu dishes are meant for sharing. “I learned from the best, from my mother, laughs Tomazos. She also cooked at some of the finest resorts in the area.  But this is the kind of food that I would want to eat in my own home,” he laughs.  They are served on wonderful, homey enamel dishes, white rimmed blue, the colors of the Greek flag, with a cloth napkin matching to add a little bit of a plus feel.

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The Inotheke menu includes crisp salads; succulent meats and intricate seafood offerings plus updated traditional Greek dishes, shown above in a photo by Acura-Hansen.

IMG_4801The traditional  Greek Salad is an excellent introduction to a cook’s hand.  My Greek foodie dining companion, and art professor, was more than pleased to see a full piece of cheese atop the Tomato, cucumber, Onion and Olives, even more so when it arrived in the shape of a rectangle.  “You see in Greece there is such scarcity that restaurants much present a full piece to fulfill the size requirements,” she chuckled.  “Of course you crumble it up after it is served.

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A natural cornerstone of Cyprus cooking, seafood at Inotheke  shines through in dishes such as the Pickled Octopus with mushrooms, celery and coriander, so tender and so filled with contrasting flavors and textures it immediately a favorite way to prepare octopus.  In fact, at first we thought that the octopus was marinated because it was so smooth, without the usual tartness of vinegar.  We learned the octopus was indeed pickled in white wine with fennel, bay leaves added to the coriander.

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Fresh vegetables and earthy legumes star in many of the Inotheke plates, prepared with aromatic herbs and freshly ground spices,  Fava Dip Bottarga, a long-time Greek-specialty-influenced dish made with caviar roe that has become a mainstream specialty.  Here the spread is served with yellow split peas, thyme and scallions.  Dense, light Ciabatta bread sits atop the spread and soaks in the flavors of the spread.

IMG_4813Moussaka is listed a Chick Pea “Moussaka” for the health-conscious vegetarians in the area.  Ask for the Classic Moussaka and it contained the ground beef, Eggplant, Zucchini and “Béchamel” in quotes because it is made with egg yolks instead of the more usual flour.  It also sits on a bed of Tzatziki (yogurt-Cucumber Salad).  It is served with a side salad, rich in color and feel with red onions, radicchio, with celery providing a crunch.

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We also had a play on the famous lemon soup, Lamb & Artichoke “Avgolemono.”  Made with Fennel, Carrots and Dill, proved to be both refreshing with creamy substantance, possibly the favorite of any artichoke dish I’ve ever eaten.  And the bit of leftovers turned out to be even more when the flavors settled in even more.  It seems that Lamb with artichokes (with dill) is a very popular dish in Greece, going in another sharper route with finely chopped white onion and ground white pepper.

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Desserts rotate almost daily with Galactoboureko, Karidopita and Baklava on the list, which was offered today.  It was, to my Greek companion, happily prepared in the classic Greek style, studded abundantly  with walnuts.

EQR5NV9RIw4DCyO3-tJNuJ-z7Inrwe1PLnVLUq1tL14,pDsCQjwLfN50aaxOatmZQlOdjRu_zmVemi18H_NW6mwThe name Inotheke, translates to “wine case,” and  Tomazos will offer over 20 varietals by the glass, including whites like the Robert Cantin, “Les Pier Blancs,” Sancerre from France, and reds like the Salentein Reserve Malbec from Argentina, and a Wine List of with over 60 eclectic selections by the bottle, along with four rotating draft beers and 12 bottled beers.


Tomazos career prepared him well for his current position of representing Greek cuisine (see

 Inotheke is open daily for Lunch from 11:30 am to 3:00 pm and for Dinner from 5:30 pm to 10:00 pm. For more information or reservations, please visit www.inotheke.com or call Inotheke directly at 310.458.3366.