Bone marrow

Global Comfort Food Elevates Clubby Wolfsglen

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Restaurants as beloved gathering places once defined neighborhoods, like the Raincheck and Rainbow in West Hollywood. Wolfsglen, blocks from UCLA, is reviving this trend in the once vibrant Westwood.

Once home to the beloved Moustache Cafe, and a walk away from Alice’s Restaurant and Tannino’s, Wolfsglen is historic in another way. Its name honors former state senator and pioneer rancher, John Wolfskill, who played a prominent role in the development of Westwood Village.

Wolgsglen’s own blend and the elevated old-fashioned it inspired

Easing into the bottom floor of a historic two-story building developed in the 1930s, Wolfsglen spreads out over two storefronts, one for events and one with a bar and loft for private private parties. Soaring open beam ceilings, an organic feel with planters dividing the seating areas and al fresco dining lend a feeling of endless space.

Wolfsglen’s comfy, spiffy bar and dining room area with floor to ceiling windows

Chef Fidel Guzman offers an elevated global comfort food seasonal menu from a large, bustling kitchen. The seasonal menu starts with fresh ingredients with pasta and breads made in-house. So we weren’t surprised to learn that Chef Guzman’s pedigree includes in-depth experience with two of our favorite chefs: Hugo Molina at Parkway Grill and Danny Elmaleh of Mediterranean-inspired Mizlala, Cleo and international Disruptive Restaurant Group portfolio..

Chef Elmaleh’s influence was first apparent in the Bone Marrow & Wagyu Pastrami. Grain mustard threaded its way through capers, shallots and mushrooms. An adventuresome yet precise presentation, bursting with flavor and texture, all offset with the homemade sourdough bread served with it.

Wolfsglen Executive Chef Fidel Guzman presents Bone Marrow & Wagyu Pastrami

The middle eastern influenced Falafel, Brown Butter Labneh and the Hummus with chili crisps grabbed our attention on the menu. Each of the classics has a twist to update them, such as the brown butter and the chili crisps. These are happily offered at lunch and dinner.

Burrata with grilled and flambé peaches, Esquites, Mushroom Arancini, Shrimp Toast, Steak Tartare and  Shawarma are offered at dinnertime and are next on our list!

Wolfsglen’s crispy, moist and airy Arancini, rice and truffle balls

Labneh is already a richer version of the richest yogurt. Wolfsglen’s Brown Butter Labneh dotted with feta cheese served with warm housemade pita or GF crudités adds honey to the mix and is an inspired match to the warm pita made in-house.

Wolfslen’s Brown Butter Labneh dotted with feta cheese, served with warm pita made in-house or GF crudités

It would be impossible to choose between Chef Guzman’s Brown Butter Labneh and Hummus with chili crisps and the best olive oil so we ordered both. And both of Chef Guzman’s inspired dishes are generous enough for sharing as an appetizer to to accompany drinks.

Wolfslen’s Hummus with chili crisps, olive oil served with warm pita made in-house
Executive Chef Danny Elmaleh, inspiration to Wolfsglen Executive Chef, Fidel Guzman

Chef Guzman’s Bolognese mafaldine is braised for seven hours.  This pasta is known for its wide ribbon shape with ruffled edges, and is made of talian imported durum wheat semolina, pasteurized eggs. Mafaldine, so the story goes, originated in Naples in the early 20th century. Its name honors Princess Mafalda of Savoy. (So these fancy ribbons are also called “little queens.”

Handmade Pastas are chosen and handled with care and heart. Other pasta dishes at Wolfsglen include Rigatoni Diavola and Cacio e Pepe.

Mafaldine or “little queens” pasta at Wolfsglen, Westwood

Entrées almost to an item include one intriguing twist so that you want to try them all. For example, the Pan Roasted Pork Chop has a togarashi-whiskey glaze. Steak Frites is dressed up with an in-house beef jus. Roast Chicken features aji verde and pea tendrils, Seared Salmon has a unique pineapple ginger glaze and miso potato purée. Seared Striped Bass arrives in its bed of coconut broth. Cauliflower Steak is elevated and transformed into a tempting global dish with curry and raisin chutney.

The Wolfsalen Burger layered with candied bacon and arugula with spicy aioli and perfect shoestring potatoes, skin on, needs only its picture to win over a diner. And when you ask for rare medium, you get rare medium. See the photo below.

The Wolfsalen Burger, layered with candied bacon and arugula, with spicy aioli, arugula
The Wolfsalen Burger, Westwood, where medium rare is medium rare to perfection

 “Our goal is to welcome destination diners while we make this a neighborhood place for regulars, says Samuel Espinoza, General Manager. Espinoza uses all of his background experience in both restaurants and entertainment to make this happen.

Wolfsglen, Westwood “had me” at grappa that pulled out instantly when I asked

“We have music to suit every age taste, live entertainment plus a new sports viewing opportunity for Monday night football and , a lively bar and the best food,” he continued. ” Guests of any age feel welcome here. This goes from from families to college kids, 40 year olds on a date or after a date, and an older crowd that comes in earlier for lunch or dinner.

Wolfsglen’s bar program, originally created by Fernanda Hay, and now overseen by Bar Manager Edward Ruiz, offers a diverse range of perfectly balanced and playful cocktails and signature creations 

Wolfsglen’s far ranging and creative bar program, overseen by Bar Manager Edward Ruiz, features lots of mezcal!
Signature cocktails star in Wolfsglen’s far ranging and creative bar program

The restaurant and entertainment spot is “the brainchild” of new hospitality team CFO Mark Garcia, Director of Operations Fernanda Hay, General Manager Sammy Espinoza, Chef Fidel Guzman, Sous Chef & Pastry Chef Moriah Castañeda, and Bar Manager Edward Ruiz.

Wolfsglen adds up to more than the sum of all its many parts that include history, culture, and cuisine, just as Westwood’s most popular places have in the past.  We wish them all the luck in reviving Westwood, and we’ll be back!

Manager Samuel Espinoza and Wolfsglen CFO Mark Garcia, Director of Operations

Wolfsglen, 1071 Glendon Ave., L.A. 90024. For more information about Wolfsglen, hours and special events about Wolfsglen or to make reservations, call 310.208.1071 directly or visit www.Wolfsglen.com.

If You Know Gado Gado & Krupuk, You Know BONE KETTLE

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(Roberta Deen, Gerry Furth-Sides; individually credited Bone Kettle photos) Bone Kettle dots the north end of charming Raymond Street’s restaurant row in Pasadena.  It finds its heart and warmth in the Tjahyadi family team that runs the kitchen and front of the house. Tjahyadi brothers, Manager Eric and Executive Chef Erwin, creators of Bone Kettle, are widely acclaimed for their wildly successful fusion/fast/casual Komodo concept conceived during the 2009 recession. The Komodos are tiny box spaces packed with food-to-go customers and minimal seating.

The Raymond Street space is warm and inviting, feeling as though it interacts with the walking street outside. Only a full wall of window separates diners at a common table that fronts the bar on one side from the active street scene. Banquette seating tables on the other side are punctuated by a window seat filled with plants.  A dynamic mural, bamboo-like paneling and intimate individual booth seating beckons from the back room. The lingering redolence of the simmering broth in the eponymous kettle wafts throughout.

The focal point of Bone Kettle’s kitchen is undoubtedly the signature Bone Broth. The well-balanced soup is created by using time-honored cooking techniques and fresh ingredients reflective of Southeast Asian traditions. Consisting of typically undervalued cuts of beef, filtered water, onions, garlic, ginger, and an exclusive Bone Kettle mix of dried spices, the broth cooks for 36 hours.

A bed of Prime Top Sirloin and Bone Kettle Noodles ready for the Broth to be poured over it

The bowls are brought to the table with a layered mountain of ramen noodles (your choice of prime top sirloin, chicken breast, brisket, oxtail or tempeh) and micro greens. Steaming hot, mild, unfiltered broth is then poured over the ingredients tableside.  A “bowl” and a small plate or two make for a hearty, healthy meal.

Broth is then poured over the ingredients tableside by first generation Tjahyadi restaurant owner and dad at Bone Kettle.

The menu provides an approachable introduction to exotic Indonesian cuisine. One look at the menu shows such key Indonesian dishes as Gado Gado & Krupuk.  While the ingredients in Southeast Asian cooking are familiar (ginger, garlic, beef and chicken) the combinations are distinctly different.  Chef Erwin updates the heirloom recipes of his family with fresh California ingredients and French techniques. His emphasis is on small plates, which are hearty and shareable. The evening began with a toast of signature Dragonfruit Lychee Lemonade, as pretty to look as it is tasty to sip.

Dragonfruit Lychee Lemonade

We sampled a tasting menu of Oxtail Dumplings filled with finely shredded oxtail meat, seasonal mushrooms and leeks with a San Bai Su sauce; Spicy Papaya Salad featuring julienne green papaya, mangoes, tomatoes, chili, cilantro, chopped peanuts and tender shrimp; Chicken Wings, citrus-brined, free range, battered and fried with grilled lime; Fried Oxtail Tips sauced with lime juice, fresh herbs, Thai chili, star anise and ginger with tiny crisp chips made from baby fingerling potatoes; and last, a generous plate of Bone Marrow features two  “canoes” of the roasted marrow, grilled baguette and a salad of red endive, frisse, mizuna, and apples with rhubarb dressing which tames the richness of the marrow.

Bone Kettle Spicy Papaya Salad

Bone Kettle’s Fried Oxtail Tips

Bone Kettle ChickenWings

The truly lovely, well thought-out design of Bone Kettle matches the integrity of old classic Pasadena craftsmanship. Soft lighting, blonde bamboo and black lacquer elements plus the combination of bar and common table seating, pretty banquettes and individual booths are all crowd pleasers.  This was evident as we watched the restaurant enthusiastically fill on a bitter cold, mid-week night.

The common table and bar (Photo courtesy of Bone Kettle)

The dynamic mural painted by a family friend

Group seating in the back room

Brothers and partners Eric Tjahyadi and Executive Chef Erwin Tjahyadi  created Bone Kettle as a love letter to the flavors and peoples of Southeast Asian after the Executive Chef Erwin took a transformative journey home to reacquaint himself with the enriching flavors of his youth. For the story of this adventure, please see.//localfoodeater.com/chefspotlight/bone-kettle-co-owner-and-executive-chef-erwin-tjahyadi/

Chef Tjahyadi

(A hint of “white tablecloth” days to come at the first LUCKY RICE Asian Food Event)

Chef’s Specialties include Garlic Steak Nasi Goreng (short rib, fried rice, eggs, chicharron gremolata, Nam Pla), Maryland Blue Crab Fried Rice, and Singaporean Chili Lobster.

Desserts provide an exotic finish.  On the list are a Trio of Crème Brulee (Pandan, Durian and Ube); Cassava Cake with Avocado Ice Cream; Black Rice Pudding with sweet corn and coconut and a rotating selection of Southeast Asian Ice Creams.

Beers, Sakes and Wines are offered as well as non-alcoholic Blood Orange Fresca, Mango Mimosa, and Guava Prosecco.

BONE KETTLE, 67 North Raymond Avenue, Pasadena, CA 91103, 626.795.5702.  For details or reservations, please visit www.BoneKettle.com.

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