Commerson Restaurant

New (Original) French Commerson

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Now is the time to visit Commerson, open for indoor and outdoor dining. Usually fully booked on week-ends, we were delighted to be welcomed by the original executive chef who created the menu concept, Executive Chef Sascha Lyon, and his wife who designed the muscular restaurant interior.

It took a glass of wine to choose our dishes. The wine: a Happy Hour Special 2019 Proverb Pinot Noir from the Central Coast, a choice that took us through a meal of seafood and beef.

The friendly, light 2019 Proverb Pinot Noir

The best of French bistro fare and fresh tastes and ingredients started with Seafood ceviche with special Kumiai oysters from Baja.

Executive Chef Sascha bringing out Seafood ceviche with special Kumiai oysters from Baja at COMMERSON Restaurant

The Garnish Olives alone reflect Chef Sascha’s mastery of complex ingredients were prepared with a variety of Glossy picholine, Castelvetrano, Kalamata, Capers, Cornichons AND Nicoise. olives The rich combination was dressed with a blend of garlic, tomato confit, an oil blend, rosemary, thyme, bay leaves, cumin seeds, fennel seeds, coriander seeds, star anise and cinnamon stick.

The Garnish Olives by Chef Sascha at COMMERSON Restaurant

The perfectly prepared, wood, grilled Creekstone Farms hangar “Bar Steak” followed – known to be “the steak challenge. It arrived with a pile of crisped garlic fried and herb butter. Flank steak is one of the healthiest beef cuts. Ounce for ounce, the very lean, very flavorful flank steak cut has fewer calories and more protein than a ribeye or porterhouse. The trick that Chef Lyon has mastered with this very lean cut is not to overcook it and know how to slice it (across the grain).

Creekstone Farms hangar “Bar Steak” at COMMERSON Restaurant

A slightly lighter dish was the sublimely wood-grilled, dry-aged, Half-pound burger layered with grand pasando, aioli, mizuna and caramelized onion. The chef sources all his ingredients carefully, also using his own firsthand experience with farm to table cooking practices.

Half-pound burger at Commerson Restaurant

Commerson restaurant was named after a French explorer by the husband-wife team to honor the original French cuisine. Their partner remains the young, tech genius, Raymond Eng from Hong Kong.

Commerson’s outdoor dining at the hub of busy LaBrea and Wilshire close to LACMA

Add unexpected genuine hospitality to the food and come up with a memorable dining experience that instills lingering good feelings.  So don’t miss this hidden treasure practically slid under a brand new loft high-rise in the midst of the Metro Purple Line Extension construction that we’ve driven right by so many times.

Hands on, brilliant owner Raymond Eng comes from a tech background.

Other dish options include a Garlic Shrimp Caesar with all-natural bacon for $12; a Grilled Paillard ofChicken with frisbee and upland watercress dressed in a mustard vinaigrette, confit of tomatoes, jus natural and grand pasando, and a Bar Steak we ordered for $24.

State of the art ovens at Commerson Restaurant

Who would think that this cavernous space with such a muscular feel with white walls, blonde wood simple chairs  and metal tables would encourage such happy dining.  The room when we were there was filled with groups of ladies, couples, single customers at the bar and families with children of all ages.

The crowd at Commerson Restaurant
Safe dining practices at Commerson.

Nancy Silverton and Mark Peel’s Campanile revived the La Brea Street restaurant row a generation ago, long replaced with the booming Republique.   Commerson Restaurant book-ends the neighborhoo’s trendy, boutique-filled long street.  788 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, (323)813-3000.

Salud! Commerson’s Mezcal “alcohol actual querida” Menu

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Chef Sal Garcia’s Ceviche, the perfect match to mezcal, with red snapper, pico de gallo, avocado, cholla (cactus), radish and plantain chips

“The Last Word” cocktail with Union mezcal taking the place of gin

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Commerson  is the sort of place where even the simplest of conversations lead to discoveries. One of them, on our first visit for brunch, was with Chef Garcia. A little bit shy at first, we learned that his hometown is Oaxaca,  the “heart of mezcal” country (among the three most famous regional exports including hand-carved animals).  Within minutes, he shared his treasured “Tobala” Mezcal Ojo de Agua with us.  Tobala’s flavor differs from maguey Espadin (sword) or maguey Azul (blue).  When manager Brandon Bernstein joined in, the conversation took a turn about the start of a Commerson mezcal bar program. This is major news at a time when even the finest Mexican restaurants often offer only one mezcal. See  the new bar menu below.  It especially interests anyone like me, who loves esoteric grappa, retsina and the “wilder” types of drinks despite the fact that is not harsh or rough.

Chef Sal Garcia shared  his treasured “Tobala” Mezcal Ojo de Agua from his hometown in the “heart of mezcal” country.

New Executive Chef Sal Garcia at Commerson Restaurant

Enthusiastic manager, Brandon, promised he would let us know when a shipment of special mezcals arrived.  It arrived!  Dedicated to creating a standout mezcal program, Brandon’s plan is to always stock 15 varietals, from entry level to advanced, with an informational booklet to go along with it. Mezcals from the states of San Luis Potosí and Guerrero and from Mazatlán in the state of Sinaloa will join those from the more familiar Oaxacan origin.

Manager Brandon Bernstein who masterminded the new Commerson mezcal program

We were honored to try a few of the mezcals from the new menu, along with matching dishes.  The mezcals ranged from $50 to $100 a bottle, which gives an idea of the quality.

The special spices that line the rim of mezcal cocktails

Chef Sal Garcia shared  his treasured “Tobala” Mezcal Ojo de Agua from his hometown in the “heart of mezcal” country.

Chef Sal Garcia shared  his treasured “Tobala” Mezcal Ojo de Agua from his hometown in the “heart of mezcal” country.

Chef Sal Garcia shared  his treasured “Tobala” Mezcal Ojo de Agua from his hometown in the “heart of mezcal” country.

Because lighter tepehuaje and sabino wood is used, Mezcal Metiche has a distinct, less smoky flavor. Metiche is also more rare because it is made from the wild Salmiana Agave that has to be cultivated in extremely dry climates. The plant has to be nearly 15 years old before it can be harvested. This mezcal is finished off in adobe ovens instead of clay earthen ovens, which influences it to be spicier than most. It has a vegetal flavor and scent.

Bozal is a treat not often found even in Spanish bars.  The espadín agave, known as the genetic mother of the Blue Weber Agave, is used to produce tequila, and is also the predominant agave used in mezcal production.  Espadin from San Luis Del Rio in Oaxaca, is traditionally made using a Chilean tahona (a stone mill) pulled by a horse to grind the agave.  Unique in itself, the characteristics of this particular agave showcase the aromas of wet earth, a rich smokiness on the mid-palate, and a finish reminiscent of wild flowers.

BOZAL, with aromas of wet earth, a rich smokiness on the mid-palate, and wild flower finish

Seared scallops complemented by celery root puree, golden raisins, spinach and saba, the elegant match to BOZAL

Special, special El Pintor is produced in the town of Yautepec in Oaxaca.  This ensemble of espadin agaves and wild cuishe (known to be one of the most physically distinct species of its kind) is cooked in a traditional earth pit, naturally fermented using the yeast that the air brings in to the palenque, mashed in a tahona, then distilled twice in a artisan copper still. The profile taste mimics the aroma of where the agaves were born.

El Pintor, produced in the town of Yautepec in Oaxaca, is an ensemble of espadin agaves and wild cuishe.

Burgundy-braised short rib over a yukon gold potato puree, swiss chard and a horseradish gremolata pairs beautiful with the El Pintor

Baked Alaska!  Surprisingly deep and still light enough to finish the perfect mezcal pairing meal

But wait, there is more:  Seleccion 1146 is a lighter mezcal that is heavenly on its own and also when served with a dessert. Fifth-generation Master Distiller and agave cultivator, Enrique Fonseca, who has one of the largest holdings of agave in Jalisco’s Highland, is responsible for 1146. Pure agave aromas of bright citrus, pepper and salinity lean into a creamy mouthful of vanilla, baking spices and toast that comes from a combination of aging the spirit in both French and American oak.

Architectural “Chocolate on Chocolate” to finish a Mezcal pairing meal

Heavenly Selection 1146 polishes off a mezcal pairing meal

Mezcal has become the darling of the tequila world, because growth and popularity has slowly been leading to the rise of quality and to high-end, premium mezcal being imported.  According to the Distilled Spirits Council, sales of Mexico’s “other” agave-based spirit has grown from less than 50,000 cases a decade ago to more than 350,000 cases this year.  Commerson is outstanding in its program, which rivals Mezcal Bars in the city.

Getting ready for the new mezcal program

But how is mezcal different from tequila?  Tequila can only be made using blue weber agave grown in specific regions of the Mexican states of Jalisco and other bordering states including Guanajuato, Michoacán, Nayarit, and Tamaulipas. Mezcal, on the other hand, can be made with any agave grown in the Mexican states of Oaxaca, Durango, Guanajuato, Guerrero, San Luis Potosí, Tamaulipas, Zacatecas, Michoacan, and Puebla. And, like tequila, the designation, “mezcal,” once a reference to any spirit distilled from fermented agave, is now a product officially controlled by its denomination of origin.   Fascinating fact:  Although most mezcal is made using industrial tools and methods, much of it is also made using stone-lined earthen ovens, stone mills pulled by horses, open-air wooden fermenters and wood-fired copper pot stills.

Commerson’s outdoor dining at the hub of busy La Brea and Wilshire close to LACMA

Happy hour, Tuesday through Sunday from 5 to 7 p.m. Discounts on food and beverages. Eight dollars buys you fresh oysters (5); a fried chicken sandwich; a grass-fed cheeseburger or spaghetti bolognese. A Denver-cut Australian wagyu is $15.

The friendly bar that lines an entire wall at Commerson Restaurant

Enthusiastic Manager Brandon Bernstein and Chef Sal Garcia at Commerson Restaurant

The new bar menu at COMMERSon

For a more detailed version of how mezcal because the darling of the spirits world, please see //www.forbes.com/sites/richardnalley/2013/03/28/the-eye-mezcal-hold-the-worm/#59bc42eb78b2

Commerson Restaurant, with the quirky name of a French explorers,  bookends one end of the the trendy, boutique-filled La Brea Street, and is on a corner near the Metro line.  788 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, (323)813-3000.

Startling Ethnic-Inspired Commerson Defines the New California Coastal

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Commerson’s outdoor dining at the hub of busy LaBrea and Wilshire close to LACMA

(Gerry Furth-Sides) The international-goes-California Coastal news about Commerson restaurant is that while it is inexplicably named after a French explorer, brilliant young Hong Kong owner, Raymond Eng, happily encourages new Executive Chef Sal Garcia to add his own inspired ethnic touches to a superb menu of appealing gourmet classics he honed at Wolfgang Puck catering.  Meanwhile, new Manager Brandon grew up in Simi Valley.

New Executive Chef Sal Garcia at Commerson Restaurant

We have our ten-point checklist of a must-try (and go back) restaurant and the two marks that Commerson doesn’t hit are being taken care of now (soften the room’s look and sound  with plants, maybe a rug).  That’s the kind of on-site owner management you can expect from Raymond Eng.    Add unexpected genuine hospitality to the food and come up with a memorable dining experience that instills  lingering good feelings.  So don’t miss this hidden treasure practically slid under a brand new loft high-rise in the midst of the Metro Purple Line Extension construction that we’ve driven right by so many times.

Check: Dishes that jump out at you on the menu:  We started our Commersion experience with brunch, not a meal we often do, turn out to have so many choices that also work for any meal it was a challenge to choose.  Prices are relatively high but portions are very generous to make up for this.  Brunch on the weekend with bottomless Bellinis and mimosas along with one food item from the menu for $35 per person.

The friendly bar that lines an entire wall at Commerson Restaurant

French Toast ($15) is prepared with the rich flavors of honey chestnuts, crusoe rum butter, chantilly cream, with vanilla-poached pears on the plate. Let’s analysis these waffles, so satisfying they will convert a paleo like me to carbs seduced already by the ingredients that make it up.

Commersion Restaurant  crispy, airy waffles with CRUSOE butter, real maple syrup

The CRUSOE rum is in the butter!  Inspired by the legendary Robinson Crusoe “a first class environmentalist, ” We start with CRUSOE organic rum is a locally produced modern take on a classic spirit made from organic, fair trade sugarcane which has developed flavor and aroma at its own pace, not hurried along by chemicals.  ThisCRUSOE spiced process elevates an already great tasting rum that helps keep land and water clean, far above the typical vanilla + sugar profile of ordinary spiced rums in a bubble of spices “cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, clove, vanilla” coupled with orange zest and molasses. For every bottle of CRUSOE sold, non-profit partner,  CHARITY:WATER, provides one month of clean water for people in need around the world by building and maintaining wells.

Two sunny side up eggs smile up from Pork Belly Toast ($16) piquillo peppers, cherry tomatoes, confit fennel (!), laced together with tomato marmalade.

Pork Belly Toast ($16) at Commerson Restaurant

Wild Pacific Shrimp & Chorizo Burger ($17) with avocado, pepper jack, alfalfa sprouts, Indian sambal

Chef Garcia’s signature Chilaquiles ($17), crispy, tangy, spicy and creamy all at the same time,  feature housemade chilaquiles, guajillo chiles, quest fresco, red onion, cilantro, guacamole and two fried eggs, as tasty as it is colorful.  It is a dish that allows the chef’s Oaxacan background to shine with housemade Chilaquiles—strips or pieces of corn tortillas fried and topped with (tomatillo-based) salsa, cheese, cream, and sliced raw onion— that transform into gourmet the dish’s humble origins are as a creative morning-after use for stale tortillas.

Chef Garcia’s  Chilaquiles at Commerson

Commerson  is the sort of place where conversations lead to discoveries, and one of them was Chef Garcia, who hails from the “heart of Mezcal” country, Oaxaca, sharing his “tobala”treasure of Mezcal Ojo de Agua with us.  Enthusiastic manager, Brandon, promised he would let us know when a shipment of special mezcals arrived and it is now.

Chef Sal Garcia is from the “heart of Mezcal” country, sharing his “tobala”treasure of Mezcal Ojo de Agua with us.

Enthusiastic Manager Brandon Bernstein and Chef Sal Garcia at Commerson Restaurant

Brilliant owner Raymond Eng comes from a tech background – this is as still as he gets, usually helping customers. We thought he was a young runner!

Our well-informed server, Harper, was delighted to help with the  eclectic, reasonably priced wine list. We started off with a The gin and tonic on tap, made with house-made tonic, juniper berries, citrus peels, rose blossoms and soda water, as much of a middle-eastern and spanish inspired pick-me-up on a rainy winter day as it would  refreshing and ideal drink when it’s hot outside.   Harper chose a pleasing Ferraton Per & fils Samorens Cotes du Rhone  ($14) from France to pair with our strong meat and bacon  dishes.

Harper, our topnotch server with seemingly effortless, top service

Pastry chef Elizabeth Sencion’s adds her  homemade Creamy, rich Creamcheese ice cream to the strawberry shortcake.   A banana bread pudding is also offered at brunch

Pastry chef Elizabeth Sencion’s adds her  homemade Creamcheese ice cream

Happy hour, Tuesday through Sunday from 5 to 7 p.m., Commerson offers discounts on food and beverages. Fresh oysters are $8 for 5. Other options include a fried chicken sandwich, grass-fed cheeseburger, spaghetti bolognese for $8 and a Denver cut Australian wagyu for $15.

State of the art ovens at Commerson Restaurant

Who would think that this cavernous space with such a muscular feel with white walls, blonde wood simple chairs  and metal tables would encourage such happy dining.  The room when we were there was filled with groups of ladies, couples, single customers at the bar and families with children of all ages. Apparently penlights and flickering votive candles on the tables are enough to add a touch of romance even to Valentine’s Day or the Oscars coming up.

Happy single, couple, family and groups at Commerson Restaurant.

Nancy Silverton’s Campanile began the LaBrea a generation ago, long replaced with the booming Republique.   Commerson Restaurant book-ends the neighborhood trendy, boutique-filled long street.  788 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles, (323)813-3000.

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