Executive Chef Danny Elmaleh Archives

Chef Danny Elmaleh’s International Flair at Johnny’s Pastrami Adams

August 7, 2020 Comments Off

Second Generation Chef Danny Elmaleh behind the stove at Johnny’s Pastrami on Adams Boulevard, just east of Crenshaw.

(Gerry Furth-Sides) You might find Second Generation, new Chef-owner Danny Elmaleh behind the stove at Johnny’s Pastrami, the historic pastrami stand on Adams Boulevard, just east of Crenshaw. He re-opened this summer with the takeaway stand and outdoor seating areas in what looks to be a former parking lot.

His food is just superb and straightforward and filled with bold international flavors. Chef Danny Elmaleh’s half pastrami sandwich, slaw and pickle makes a full meal from Johnny’s Pastrami Adams. There is not a lot to say about Chef Elmaleh’s straightforward pastrami “burnt ends” except that they are succulent, perfectly seasoned and lush.

Chef Danny Elmaleh’s half pastrami sandwich, slaw and pickle that made a full meal from Johnny’s Pastrami Adams.

Not a lot to say about Chef Elmaleh’s straightforward pastrami “burnt ends” except that they are succulent, perfectly seasoned and lush.

Is is like the Johnny Pastrami’s that was there before (like the one on Sepulveda at Washington Boulevard)? No. We love those places about once a year or less because it is so salty one sandwich is good for about eight glasses of water intake.

The only straightforward part of Chef Elmalah’s story is that like more and more other high -end restaurant chefs, Chef Elmalah, turned his hand from white tablecloth to more homey fare. Other than that, during his stay at CLEO, he was involved withs be restaurants all over the world with three in Los Angeles, one of the three usually closed for “remodeling” or just plain closed.

Phone numbers, hours and menus seem to be in permanent flux. (in the case of Johnny Pastrami the GOOGLE MAP still says it is permanently closed. When we asked about this on Instagram, the answer was a good-natured “we haven’t gotten around to changing this yet.”)

This is also the case with the chef’s family’s cafe, Mizlala, in Sherman Oaks, which his wife manages, and then a smaller, even more casual Mizlala on Adams Street that is more patio than restaurant with the cafeteria style format ringing the open kitchen and branches so low outside you have to duck with your tray to avoid them. No one seems to mind.

Johnny’s Pastrami Adams, view of the take-out and sit-in-the-lot from the street

Condiments and water on the counter. This view of the fenced in dining area on the side of the building.

Lots of dining space for social distancing at Johnny Pastrami Adams

A bar and indoor seating area are in the works by property designer, Matt Winter of M. Winter Designs.

Pastrami ends from Johnny’s Pastrami Adams with mustard and pickle – good for two meals with coleslaw and yam fries at home

The S’More Dessert at Johnny Pastrami Adams

The menu at “Johnny’s” Pastrami on Adams

Elmaleh’s work honors the best of his associations with Los Angeles masters, French Josiah Citrin and Japanese Katsuya Uechi.

Chef Elmaleh’s interest in cross-cultural cuisine was first inspired by his experience growing up with a Moroccan father and Japanese mother. The chef’s delicate Japanese hand combined with hearty middle eastern flavors made SBE restaurant fans of us in one meal.

Chef Elmaleh trained at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America in New York and began his career at Jean Moulin in Japan, then worked in the kitchens of Ristorante Giannino in Milan. The classics served Chef Elmaleh well in his first sbe stint in their flashy, two-story, shooting star popular Mercato di Vetro, defunct after two years. His memorable bone marrow with oxtail marmalade spread was so lush I could not eat another for a year.

Johnny’s Pastrami. 4331 W. Adams Blvd., Los Angeles.

The Brunch Table is Now Set at Cleo Restaurant!

October 25, 2018 Comments Off

Typically quirky, classy Third Street: These ladies laughed that it was “a total coincidence they dressed alike.”

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Brunch is now being served at Cleo on Third Street. And Chef Danny Elmaleh’s menu boasts all the energy, fun and chic design of the popular walking street. There is always something going on. The morning we went, light and refreshing Ketel One Botanicals were being featured. And so was crystal clear-Badoit water.

Adding a European flair, Ketel One Botanicals are made at the historic Nolet Distillery in the Netherlands. That’s Michael Durovsik, hands-on VP in charge of Operations for the Disruptive Restaurant Group, a division of SBE,

We were treated to crystal clear Badoit water for brunch

Inventive, masterful Japanese-Moroccan star Chef Danny Elmaleh makes brilliant menus appear effortless. Just as impressive, the kitchen prepares them as intended on a consistent basis. Managers Theodora and Barbie round out the terrific staff. This is why CLEO remains our choice for any meal.

Cleo suggests beginning brunch with the trio of mezze, small plates, to share at table. The dishes reflect Chef Elmaleh’s middle eastern and Asian culinary background, with his touch of bold flavors and using a refined technique. They include Hummus, Babaganoush and Lebaneh, served with a piping hot Laffa Taboon bread right out of a special separate oven.

Texture makes the difference in Chef Elmaleh’s masabacha version of hummus. Considered to the most authentic, the masabacha version is chunkier and more rustic than the usual creamier hummus one. The kitchen leaves the chickpeas whole instead of grinding them to a paste. Cumin, lemon juice, parsley, minced garlic and tahini are then mixed into the paste.

Described as having the taste and texture somewhere between Indian naan and pita bread, but with a better flavor and chew, Laffa Taboon bread or Lafah/Lafa is a Middle Eastern flatbread baked in a grilling oven called a Taboon.

Laffa Taboon bread or Lafah/Lafa is a Middle Eastern flatbread. In Israel it is also called láfa or Iraqi pita.

The Watermelon and Feta Salad small plate is also filled with layers of flavor and substance. Mint, feta cheese and both shaved cucumber and radishes add a festive element and holiday colors.

A Watermelon and Feta Salad at Cleo Third Street

Main dishes reflect the international background of the chef. Red Shakshouka features spiced tomato sauce, longanisa sausage made in house, egg, feta and cilantro. The “spiced” tomato sauce remains refined and filled with flavor and heat, rather than tasting assaultive and peppery.

Red Shakshouka at Cleo Restaurant

Not just toast but brioche toast

Chef Elmaleh’s spin on Eggs Benedict is elevating. The whimsical Avocado Toast Benedict is right in synch with the current madness for avocado toast. Smoked Salmon Benedict substitutes smoked salmon for Canadian bacon with the same saltiness. A crispy potato cake adds texture (along with a little surprise) and replaces the usual English Muffin. Spinach and hollandaise completes the dish.

The food so refined and the desserts so week-end holiday extraordinary that we we had no problem enjoying both. And they are international. A “donut tree” reminiscent of a pastry ball croquenbouche features donuts more like Austro-Hungarian “fonk” than the the French cream puff version. They are light, airy and delicious. Madelaines fulfill the French component. A moist, light molten chocolate cake is decidedly American. Jellied candies, pate de fruit, and blackberries cover an angelic panna cota are joined by a mini chocolate cake with soft dark chocolate center. The middle eastern Turkish baklava is the least satisfying. While not excessively sweet it is also so dense it is hard.

(Photo courtesy CLEO sbe restaurant)

The present moon sugar cookie combines the best of a butter cookie and a sugar cookie. It is officially “butter.” The crescent shape, like the baklava, was popular in the Turkish cuisine.

The chef’s food is as startling as ever for being fulfilling without being too filling. And a walk down Third Street is just outside.

(www.sbe.com) Cleo Third Street, 8384 W. 3rd Street, Los Angeles, CA 90048, (323) 579-1600. Cleo, L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, 424-888-7818.

Mimosas are always on the brunch menu at Cleo

The burger is a Wagyu Cali burger, two patties, cheddar, bacon, avocado and egg

Moroccan -Japanese, French-Trained Chef Danny Elmaleh

July 24, 2018 Comments Off

Executive Danny Elmaleh’s food is perfect for both the spiffy, high-end Cleo international sbe restaurants, including new establishments in the Bahamas and in Kuwait and in a more casual atmosphere, such as Mizlala. His intriguing, bold menus feature sharing plates that also work alone to beautifully combine for a meal of veggies and protein; kebabs; tangines, and desserts.

Congenial Chef Danny was born and raised in Haifa, Israel. Hs is of Moroccan descent on his father’s side and Japanese on his mother’s side. At the age of 10, the family moved to Kobe, Japan (his dad is of Moroccan descent; his mom is Japanese). There, Simon Emaleh was chef-owner of the town’s first Moroccan restaurant in 1985.

It was the the time of Japanese high rollers in the 1980s and early ’90s. Adventuresome Japanese diners were seeking out authentic experiences So the Kobe-based Moroccan restaurant proved to be a hit as soon as it opened, serving classic dishes and dressing the waitstaff in traditional Moroccan garb.

It took the Great Hanchin earthquake that destroyed most of Kobe in 1995 to force Elmaleh out of business, and move to the U.S. Synchronistically, the same scenario was going on in LA at the time, which had four thriving Moroccan restaurants with entertainment in the 80’s. That number has now dwindled down from lack of interest to Koutoubia in West L.A.

Meanwhile, Chef Danny earned his degree as a classically trained chef from the Culinary Institute of America in 1995. He rounded out his training at Club Med in Israel, followed by work on an Israeli cruise line. The chef became fluent in Hebrew, Arabic, Japanese and French.

When Simon moved to California, he opened a more modest restaurant in the Plaza d’ Oro mall in Encino, where Danny and his brother also worked. It was here that Danny’s interest took root in his Moroccan heritage. Simon’s Cafe moved to Sepulveda in Sherman Oaks café in 2004, continuing to be a success for an additional ten years.

When Simon retired a few years ago, Danny took over and updated the menu. His own friendly wife, Justine is a proprietor. Chef Danny revamped the menu and changed the name to Mizlala. In Hebrew, the name translates to “snack bar.” However, it comes from a word meaning “to eat a lot,” or maybe “to overeat”. But the dishes on this menu are so light and filled with bold flavors, you can indeed eat a lot without overeating.

Crispy Artichoke Hummus with Salsa verde, greek yogurt on the new Cleo menu

Mizlala Signature Five Olive Relish Hummus with oregano, vin rouge vinegar, marinated peppers

Some of the dishes overlap Cleo and Mizlala, although with variations. The twist on a twist on brussel sprouts and fried chicken are two of them.

Hazelnuts, fresno chilies, and particularly the orange and sherry makes the shaved Brussel Sprouts dance

Moroccan Fried Chicken, prepared with apricot mustard, harissa aioli, spiced duck fat and served with dill chips.

Elmaleh’s work honors the best of his associations with Los Angeles masters, French Josiah Citrin and Japanese. Additionally, he put in considerable time in upscale kitchens such as Ristorante Giannino in Milan and Cleo in Hollywood.

Chef Josiah Citrin

Japanese Chef, Katsuya Uechi of the famed Katsuya Sushi restaurants.

We asked the chef what his favorite dishes were growing up. His answer,”My Moroccan grandmother would make cous cous from scratch, amongst other specialty dishes as I grew up in Israel. It was always a special family gathering to enjoy “meme’s” (grandma) cooking.

A Chef Elmaleh childhood favorite that he cooked in his father’s Haifa restaurant is the stand-out Duck Matzo Ball Soup at Cleo with fresh pasta, confit duck, consommé broth, fresh herbs and lime ($9).

We were most interested in the chef’s process about how he develop his menus, specifically at Cleo. The dishes are all so interesting but have a light universal appeal.

Danny reported that to him, ” Inspiration comes from all around. It could be an ingredient, a flavor, an idea, a color etc etc that would inspire me to create a dish.

“Once we get an idea for the dish we refine the idea and combinations of flavors to be exciting and delicious,” he added. The dishes we create are based of flavor and taste first and everything else second. Which helps us get a more universal appeal,” he agreed.

“The audience is always looking for something new and exciting to try. They want to be dazzled by new flavor combinations and experience what they haven’t before.”

www.sbe.com Cleo Third Street, 8384 W. 3rd Street, Los Angeles, CA 90048, (323) 579-1600.

Homey Mizlala, on a strip mall at the Ventura (north) exit of the 405, has a bit of flair that helps improve the realization of Greek-style Skillet Haloumi, (Saganaki in Greek), fired up with brandy flame plus honey, chimichurri, walnuts and orange.

Skillet Haloumi, a Mediterranean fusion dish

Mizlala, 4515 Spulveda, sherman Oaks, 91403, (818) 7836698.

Five New “Must-Try” Japanese-Moroccan Gems at Cleo Restaurant

July 22, 2018 Comments Off

The inventive, masterful Executive Chef Danny Elmalah who makes brilliant menus appear effortless

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Just when it feels like you’ve had the full array of Chef Danny Elmaleh’s updated fusion classics at Cleo by sbe and at his family restaurant, Mizlala, the Japanese-Moroccan star creates a new “must-try” summer menu. Each one is exceptional, and there is a chef’s signature MENU FOR THE TABLE ($65 per person) that includes 7 small plates, two entrees, and a dessert sampler).

Links to our interview with the chef and our article on CLEO is below. Our five-to try and why:

Patio tables fill up with destination and local diners on a summer evening at Cleo by sbe

“Cigars” are a North-African classic with Moroccan food being slightly sweeter than the cuisines of Tunisia. Chef Danny rolls stick up minced spiced beef into his exquisite filo- like breik pastry and cool it down with lebaneh.

An updated Moroccan classic: Spicy “Cigars” at Cleo by sbe

Chef Danny adds shreds of artichoke, greens and Greek yogurt to his “bowl” of hummus in the Crispy artichoke Hummus. It is as though this is how the dish should always have been served.

Crispy Artichoke Hummus at CLEO by sbe

Sumac, tahini and a smoky flavor from being cooked over a flame make the new Babaganoush special. Pickled cucumbers and dill are the secrets to Cucumber Yogurt. Sheep’s milk, the spice, za’atar, and sheep’s milk feta make the Lebaneh unique.

Lebnah & Feta; Babaganoush; Cucumber Yogurt

Hearty, tender meat and seafood Kebabs, served with perfectly spiced Moroccan harissa and house-pickled vegetables (in the dishes at the top) are offered on the menu as a choice of three. Each choice makes

Marinated Skirt Steak features evoo, onions, and cilantro. Grilled Lamb Kefta adds rosemary, garlic oil, parsley, and onions. Garlic oil, lemon juice, cilantro, and onions bring out the full flavor in Spicy Charmoula Shrimp. Chili and garlic gives new meaning to the classic filet in Peppered Filet Mignon

Choice of three kabobs at CLEO by sbe

Curried cashews, currants, and vadouvan add a new Indian twist to trendy roasted cauliflower in Chef Danny’s Madras Curried Cauliflower. And one extra to our five is the delicate Falafel that is unique because of the added tahini, tabouleh, beet-pickled fennel.

Madras Curried Cauliflower at Cleo by sbe

Falafel with tahini, tabouleh, beet-pickled fennel at CLEO by sbe

A gentleman in a suit moved through the room, making sure service was seamless for our very large group. He also helped us pick out a Cherry Pie Pinot Noir (2016), the perfect pairing wine to the bring out elements in a menu with both seafood and meats. We were surprised to learn that Michael Durovski was the VP in charge of Operations for the Disruptive Restaurant Group, a division of SBE, and not surprised to understand why the kitchen runs beautifully even when the executive chef is not in it, as when we first visited.

Cherry Pie Pinot Noir (2016) was the perfect pairing wine to the menu with seafood and meats

www.sbe.com Cleo Third Street, 8384 W. 3rd Street, Los Angeles, CA 90048, (323) 579-1600. Cleo, L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, 424-888-7818.

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Chef Danny Elmaleh, sbe’s East-West Mastermind

March 27, 2018 Comments Off

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Culinary mastermind, Chef Danny Elmaleh, shines with his award-winning sharable middle eastern plates at the third award-winning Cleo location in Los Angeles, by sbe. Every refined Japanese-Moroccan dish makes a statement, yet feels effortless and satisfying. Even his older, original menu items, such as the shaved brussels sprouts, have staying, if not star, power from the Hollywood and the DTLA location at LA Live.

(photo courtesy of sbe) Second generation Chef Danny Elmaleh, Moroccan and Japanese.

Elmaleh’s work honors the best of his associations with Los Angeles masters, French Josiah Citrin and Japanese Katsuya Uechi. (see below). The Cleo menu categorizes the cuisine into small plates, kebabs, tangines, “from the land” and “from the sea”, desserts. We were told that the food is the neighborhood customer draw in the 6,000 sq. foot Cleo, with posh middle eastern decor, even with a bespoke cocktail bar ($15), and a vertical, compact wine list.

Executive Chef Danny Elmaleh explained his menu officially, “The new dishes on this menu, from our duck matzo ball soup to our meatball tagine (served only at night) are directly inspired by my life, my heritage and the rich flavors of the Mediterranean and the Middle East. We’ve seen a great response from our restaurants where the new menu is live.”

One outstanding Chef Elmaleh’s childhood favorite that he cooked in his father’s Haifa restaurant is the stand-out Duck Matzo Ball Soup with fresh pasta, confit duck, consommé broth, fresh herbs and lime ($9).

Duck Matzo Ball Soup with fresh pasta, confit duck, consommé broth, a favorite from Danny’s family restaurant in Haifa, Israel. Below, fresh herbs and lime for personal adds to the soup. ($14)

Surprising fusion of ethereal shaved celery on the Grilled Octopus with smoked paprika, lebaheh, grilled baby potato. ($16)

But it is still a gutsy move for a hotel restaurant, usually aiming its cuisine at a common denominator crowd. Katsuya, the jam-packed-at- all- hours, only non-sbe version outside of Studio City and Encino is on the next block. We remember similar smaller bottles on the wall of Mezze, Micah Wexler’s chic, short-lived, very similar concept place before he switched to deli, and designer Jimmy Galanos on opening night despairing the idea.

The gleaming Cleo kitchen viewed from the pass through. (below) Middle eastern spices on the wall surrounding the kitchen passthrough.

How it came about: Chef Danny worked in Josiah Citrin’s venerated Melisse and Lemon Moon in Los Angeles. In 2006, Elmaleh opened his own highly acclaimed restaurant, Celadon. He met Katsuya Uechi there and their relationship led him to his current role at sbe.

Master of the French Technique, French-American Chef Josiah Citrin

Katsuya Uechi of Katsuya fame. Katsuya is so popular there are packages restaurant, two blocks away from each other.

Cleo is a major piece of CEO Daniel del Olmo’s international strategy as new CEO of Disruptive Restaurant Group, a subsidiary of sbe. His plan is to plant and grow both upscale brands like Katsuya and Cleo, and their casual Umami Burger chain (currently licensing 74 restaurants and 42 lounges). Chef Elmaleh, in fact, was in the middle east at a business meeting the day we visited Cleo.

Cleo Third Street, 8384 W. 3rd Street, Los Angeles, CA 90048, (323) 579-1600. L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, 424-888-7818.

Chef Danny Elmaleh’s Japanese-Moroccan Family Favorites Reign at Gutsy Cleo (patra)

March 24, 2018 Comments Off

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Culinary mastermind, Chef Danny Elmaleh, shines with his award-winning sharable middle eastern plates at the third award-winning Cleo location in Los Angeles, by sbe. Every refined Japanese-Moroccan dish makes a statement, yet feels effortless and satisfying. Even his older, original menu items, such as the shaved brussels sprouts, have stayed, if not a star, power from the Hollywood and the LA Live location in DTLA.

(photo courtesy of sbe) Second generation Chef Danny Elmaleh, Moroccan and Japanese.

Elmaleh’s work honors the best of his associations with Los Angeles masters, French Josiah Citrin and Japanese Katsuya Uechi. (chef spotlight profile bio). The Cleo menu categorizes the cuisine into small plates, kebabs, tangines, “from the land” and “from the sea”, desserts. We were told that the food is the neighborhood customer draw in the 6,000 sq. foot Cleo, with the posh middle eastern decor, even with a snazzy bespoke cocktail bar ($15), and a vertical, wine list. After all the place is named after the sultry Cleopatra.

Our favorite bites: Cleo’s Garlic Shrimp on a bed of gigante bean purée infused with white wine and preserved lemon ($34). The cushiony, gigantes (“giant” in Greek) are a dream, pureed. “Plaki” is a popular ingredient in Greek cooking but usually blanketed in a tomato-based sauce.

Cleo’s Garlic Shrimp on a bed of gigante bean purée infused with white wine and preserved lemon.

Surprising fusion of ethereal shaved celery on the Grilled Octopus with smoked paprika, lebaheh, grilled baby potato. ($16)

Dining as performance: The Harissa Tuna Tartare with avocado, orange, olive tapenade and lavash slabs to DIY ($14) starts as a deconstructed dish mixed together by the server.

The Grilled Octopus above and below

A long list of stand-alone shareable, and compatible “miza” or small plates ($9-10). No combination platters of the hummus, feta & Lebanahen, Babaganoush, Greek Salad, Freekeh Salad here. The laffa bread, with its puffed up pita look, (upper right corner) scoops up every bit of the delectable sauces.

(clockwise starting at 1) Laffa bread, Babaganoush, lavash slabs and tuna tartare, shaved brussels sprouts, grilled octopus).

Textured Babaganoush (smoked eggplant and tahini) with a ribbon of sumac through it.

A Chef Elmaleh’s childhood favorite that he cooked in his father’s Haifa restaurant is the stand-out Duck Matzo Ball Soup with fresh pasta, confit duck, consommé broth, fresh herbs and lime ($9).

Duck Matzo Ball Soup with fresh pasta, confit duck, consommé broth, a favorite from Danny’s family restaurant in Haifa, Israel. Below, fresh herbs and lime for personal add to the soup. ($14)

Lamb kofta kebabs folded into the addictive laffa bread ($9)

For chocolate lovers: Flourless dark chocolate lava cake, roasted banana, salted caramel ice cream and petite hazelnut meringues

Not as successful is the sort of deconstructed Moussaka, and a lackluster Spanakopita ($9). We love minced food, especially a French-Canadian tourtiere, but here the flavors and the textures are muted and muddled.

Moroccan Saffron Grilled Chicken Tagine ($24)with preserved lemon, almond, olives, roasted tomato, saffron on a bed of rice, a sweeter than its Tunisian counterpart.

The gleaming Cleo kitchen viewed from the pass through. (below) Middle Eastern spices on the wall surrounding the kitchen passthrough.

(www.sbe.com) Cleo Third Street, 8384 W. 3rd Street, Los Angeles, CA 90048, (323) 579-1600. Cleo, L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, 424-888-7818.

Executive Chef Danny Elmaleh

Chef Danny Elmaleh’s International Flair at Johnny’s Pastrami Adams

The Brunch Table is Now Set at Cleo Restaurant!

Moroccan -Japanese, French-Trained Chef Danny Elmaleh

Five New “Must-Try” Japanese-Moroccan Gems at Cleo Restaurant

Chef Danny Elmaleh, sbe’s East-West Mastermind

Chef Danny Elmaleh’s Japanese-Moroccan Family Favorites Reign at Gutsy Cleo (patra)

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