Gerry Furth-Sides

The Astonishing Astana Ballet Opens Window to Kazakhstan Cuisine

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(Gerry Furth-Sides, photo courtesy of the Astana Ballet TheatreThe Astana Ballet Theater has toured all over the world with performances in almost every major city, and recently premiered on the West Coast.

Astana Ballet Theater is named after the country’s capital city.  It reflects the described as having building that “rise up implausibly from the flat plains of oil-rich Kazakhstan to form a city stuck between a Soviet past and an aspirational present.  Founded in 2012 on the initiative of the Head of State Nursultan Nazarbayev, the first performance of the Theater took place in July 2013.  Audiences fell in love immediately. Today the team’s thousands of fans can be found not only in Kazakhstan, but also abroad.  The unique multi-genre repertoire of the Theater is constantly replenished with international masterpieces and national classics, plus original choreographic performances.  For more information and to book tickets please visit: //astanaballetusatour.com

Our invite was enticing: “Given little is known about Kazakhstan, the dance group is a marvelous window into the culture and arts of this country.” It turned out that, especially after the magnificent dance performance and interesting audience, we were  ready to know more.

For example,  what would we be eating if we were to be in Kazakhstan dining before a performance?  Foods for high energy and a lot of movement  – unlike the “calorie crazy” with anything starchy former Cirque du Soleil troupe’s former diet and their much more trendy, vegetarian based current one.

Kazakh cuisine is traditionally is focused on mutton (sheep) and horse meat, plus milk products. For hundreds of years, Kazakhs were herders who raised fat-tailed sheep, Bactrian camels, and horses, relying on these animals for transportation, clothing, and food.  The nomadic way of list has influenced cooking techniques and major ingredients, with one outstanding one being preservation that include salting and drying meat, along with a preference for sour milk.   Meat in various forms, and primarily boiled, then served in large pieces, is traditional.  Kazakhs cared so much for their horses, especially for horses which they intended to slaughter, they are known to keep them apart from other animals and feed them so much they had difficulty moving—keeping them separate from other animals and feeding them so much that they often became so fat they had difficulty moving.

(photo courtesy of e-history. kz)

Checking through lists it seems that most agree on these top ten.  All reflect the nomadic lifestyle and the requirement of food for a lot of energy because of the climate.  Meat is dominant; vegetarianism just about non-existent.  Some dishes may appear extraordinary or even strange, but everything is worth trying at least once.

1. Beshbarmak: The national dish consists of boiled horse meat or mutton with large noodles and onions. Traditionally beshbarmak is served on a common platter and eaten with fingers  and the name translates to “five fingers”).   Similar to Indian custom, the family and guests sit on the floor around a low-lying table called dastarkhan.

Kazy   The meat of this traditional sausage made from the rib meat of horses is stuffed inside the animal’s intestines and then usually dried or smoked before it is boiled for consumption. Kazy is an important part of any celebratory meal.

Kuyrdak Kuyrdak is a national dish made from cow’s, horse’s or sheep’s chopped heart, liver, kidneys boiled in oil, and served with onion and pepper.

Sorpa Sorpa is a traditional hot broth usually drunk after eating beshbarmak.   This is often served with Kurt, a type of cheese made from dehydrated sour cream by forming small balls and letting it dry. Kurt was historically useful for long treks on horseback across the steppe.

Airan is an almost liquid yogurt prepared from fermented cow’s milk.

Known for it’s delicious flavor,  Kumysa dairy product made from mare’s milk often fermented in big skin bags for as many as several days has alcohol content. Shubat Shubat is camel’s milk made in the same way as kumys, and both are known to have wonderful health properties.

Baursaks, the popularKazakh national dish for celebratory occasions made from spherical or triangular pieces of dough and fried in oil can be prepared sweet or not. Sometimes it is described as a type of Asian doughnuts.  The smell of the oil and the frying baursak floats high into the sky so that your dead loved ones can feed on the aroma and enjoy them with you. Shelpek Shelpek is a flat cake made in the same way as baursaks.

Though a flowy back curtain is the entire set on tour, compared to the state of the art technical one in Kazakhstan, it shows off the bold, fluid virtuosity of the dancers.  It is all the more remarkable that the females modern ballet dancers are often on point as naturally as if they were barefoot .

The program  of classic and modern dance, with original compositions by renowned choreographers, includes Astana Ballet’s  newest presentation: MASTERPIECES. 

The heart-stopping The Heritage of the Great Steppe Kazakh folk dance, full of thunderous music and pounding artistic imagery is alone worth the price of admission (see below).  A more regal, earthy segment is danced by female dancers (above).  

Three neoclassical one-act ballets hold two inspired pieces by Brazilian choreographer Ricardo Amarante: Love Fear Loss, a ballet set to songs by that focuses on Edith Piaf’s remarkable life story; and A Fuego Lento, a ballet that uses the rhythms of a Samba and Tango to tell a passionate story about the flush of first love.  The unique, often extreme undulating movements of the dancers that seem to be a signature of this tour, compared to the much more rigid, straight lines of the tango dance make for an exhilarating experience!

The final one-act , Love’s Lost Idols, is by the renowned New York-based choreographer Nicolo Fonte, who lived up to his reputation of having a “daring and original approach to dance”

The CleverOne™ (Board): The Perfect, Original Gift

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The C!everOne after being “oiled”

(Gerry Furth-Sides) You almost have to see and feel the Nflex from CleverOne  to understand how what it is and how it works.  It is pliable and light and much thinner than a substantial cutting board.  The underside is non-slip even on a granite counter.  Not only that, but you can flip it over and use the silicone as a trivet for hot pans.  It is ideal for cooking ethnic food, which often requires extensive vegetable and meat chopping, and is served in the form of a stew or casserole.

The flip side of the C!everOne becomes a trivet

The newNflex from CleverOne™  was designed to eliminate the problems of raditional wooden cutting boards, which of course   lack flexibility. They’re hard to fit into your sink. When it comes to washing wood cutting boards, they’re unwieldy. They take up counter and storage space. And they lack pourability.

 

Flexible hardwood.   WoodNflex fuses real, hardwood veneers in maple, oak and walnut with a food-grade silicone backing to create a beautiful, flexible, stable cutting surface.  WoodNflex is the world’s first hardwood cutting surface that’s flexible, making it easy to carry and pour chopped items so it hs portability. It is available in both Walnut and Oak hardwood species.

It is super-easy easy to wash because it is flexible and light, bending to fit easily into a sink for easier scrubbing and sanitizing. It must be treated before using the first time with standard linseed oil or mineral oil, as you would a traditional cutting board, to keep the hardwood surface ready to chop.  We used olive oil, and it worked just fine.

Small footprint. At just over 1/8” thick and flexible, it stores easily, and doesn’t have to live on your countertop, like some massive hardwood boards. It can tuck away neatly into your cabinets.  The Hybrid design ofwoodNflex fuses hardwood veneer with food-grade silicone. This protects your countertop and provides a sanitary, non-slip cutting surface. Chop space. woodNflex is available in two sizes, including 11” x 14” and 14” x 18”, allowing plenty of room for simple or more complex meal preparation.

The company started “in the kitchen” with CleanCutting Sheets, with disposable bamboo cutting sheets. This helped minimize cross-contamination  eliminated the  spread of bacteria in the kitchen because after meat or veggies were cut, germs were “tossed out” with the sheet. Because they’re steam-pressed, highly renewable, biodegradable bamboo, they’re guiltlessly disposable.

Dedicated to developing innovative new products to make every area of home life safer, simpler and cleaner, CleanCutting Sheets and woodNflex are just the start of CleverOne™ Brands,output.  For more information on products, please visit  CleanCutting Sheets & woodNflex.

Another light, (shatterproof) gift for the spirit lover “who has everything” is the Shaker33 Cocktail Shaker. (MSRP $39.95) available at Shaker33.com. 

It is made of lightweight acrylic and shatterproof BPA-free Tritan™ plastic.  The  24 oz. large format easily takes care of mixing large cocktail batches at once.  The Shaker 33 is leak-proof and top rack dishwasher safe.  An easy-to-open, lockable lid with a Dual Flow strainer allows for a slow or quick pour. And the feature for low condensation- chills drinks eliminates any cold feeling on your hands while its non-slip character allows one-handed mixing capability.  

Lebanese-Armenian Family Inspires Bok Bok Chicken

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Bok Bok Chicken creator Jacob Tchamanian

Bok Bok Chicken inspires this from the media

(Gerry Furth-Sides) It is really hard for me to hold back from effusive praise for this restaurant that combines Next Generation authentic ethnic food with American technology to serve it up quickly and affordably – in the most warm, inviting setting.  Especially when it is a rare find these days.

Step inside family-owned and operated, Bok Bok Chicken and you instantly feel at home even in the stark minimalist decor of a casual counter service eatery with a huge video of the menu on one wall that explains the menu before you order.   The space itself puts you in a good mood: earth tones and brick;  ceiling pin lights and wall-size windows, with a woodsy mix of low and high tables and banquettes , and a long performance kitchen area complete with rotisserie lend the double storefront restaurant a cheery spaciousness.

The first thing you see from the door is a smiling face at Bok Bok Chicken

 Gregarious, high-energy Bok Bok Chicken creator Jacob Tchamanian is as pleased with his wife’s inspiration for the eatery as he is proud of the process he developed to serve her superb home cooking in short-order fashion.   While the middle eastern/Mediterranean concept has been the rage in Los Angeles for the past few years, Bok Bok takes it to a new level by prepping the food in their own private commissaries, both in Las Vegas and now Southern California, to fresh-casual fare in what they call, ” a comfortable farmhouse setting.”  The only strange part is the meaning of the Bok Bok name?  Ask Jacob and he laughs, “what sound does a chicken make?”

The wall with a video of a rotating menu, complete with visual and a description in the order line at Bok Bok Chicken

Recipes, from the rotisserie chicken to beef shawerma, are prepared from family recipes that have been tested and adjusted for the large numbers.  Jacob, who has a vast knowledge of the cuisine from his far flung cultural heritage in Lebanon, Turkey and Israel,  happily shares his own favorites. He likes to say, “It took hundreds of years to perfect the home cooked version, but only three to build a commissary to prep the food and send it out to be cooked and served at family-focused, Bok Bok Chicken.” A wildly successful businessman in his own right, Bok Bok is a labor of love for him.  “Look at me now,” he points out.  “Today I came fin or a couple of hours and I’ve already been here six!”

Bok Bok Chicken is the perfect dining place to go solo, paired, friends or family. Soft drinks are “do-it-yourself at a counter

Family Meal Fresh Sides make a meal in themselves, such as: hummusfattoush salad (chopped salad with watercress, mint, green onion, tomato, cucumber, bell pepper, pita chips and house dressing), quinoa eech (quinoa, tomato, onion, parsley and spices), batata salad (potato, green onion, parsley, lemon juice, olive oil and spices), tabbouleh salad (minced parsley, green onion, tomato, cracked wheat, lemon juice, olive oil and spice), mutabbal (eggplant, tahini and garlic) and a regal rice pilaf.

A colorful array of Bok Bok Chicken small plates

Bok Bok Chicken founder, Jacob Tchamanian, takes care in every detail

Cheese Boreg, fried dough filled with cheeses, green onion, parsley and spices is a favorite snack or starter.  The name is “Boreg” refers to the layers of dough, thicker than the layered versions in order to fry them.  Hearty soups, lentil and chicken noodle, are slow-cooked for hours at the commissary.

Bok Bok’s Cheese Boreg, fried dough filled with cheeses, green onion, parsley and spices

Big Plates Shawerma Plate ($12) are cooked in front of your eyes, the beef stacked in vertical flame-broilers after being marinated for 18 hours.  Rice pilaf, roasted tomato, piaz, fattoush and tahini plates not for the faint of heart.  We made three meals of one. The Rice Pilaf made a rice-eater out of me.

Shawerma Plate ($12) at Bok Bok Chicken

Macob’s idea of a “sample” and made a quinoa eater out of me (quinoa at 9 o’clock with tomato; tabouleh, babaganouce and batata.

The Bok Bok Chicken Plate ($12) is a meal of  half a Rotisserie Chicken, Rice Pilaf, hummus and fattoush.  The chicken is cooked on the rotisserie to allow the flavor seep into the juices.   Chickens are cage-free, hormone-free, antibiotic-free and never frozen.

The Bok Bok Chicken Plate ($12)

The Bok Bok big plates also make terrific pita sandwiches

Large slabs of Baklava make a satisfying but not overly sweet ending to a meal.
“That’s because I don’t add extra sweetness with honey as most do,” Jacob explained.  The same is true of Gatnaboor or Rice Pudding made with cinnamon and rose water.  When I protested to Jacob and pointed to my hips to show where the desserts ended up, he laughed and said, “that’s what we call a low-fat diet!”

Beautifully balanced not-too-sweet Baklava at Bok Bok Chicken

To view the full menu, visit bokbokchicken.com.

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA LOCATIONS:
Bok Bok Chicken – Culver City, 4114 Sepulveda Blvd., Ste. E, Culver City 90230 Opens Oct. 21
Bok Bok Chicken – Downtown Los Angeles, 108 West 2nd St., Los Angeles 90012 Now Open 
Bok Bok Chicken – Eagle Rock, 2146 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock 90041 Now Open 
Bok Bok Chicken Venice Beach and Century City in progress

For more information, visit BokBokChicken.com or connect socially on Instagram @EatBokBok

What Fuels the Astana Ballet of the Republic of Kazakhstan’s LA Performance November 22

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(Gerry Furth-Sides, photo courtesy of the Astana Ballet Theatre) Astana Ballet Theatre Group, one of the top performance theater companies of the Republic of Kazakhstan will premiere on the West Coast, featuring a world class and diverse repertoire.  Though a flowy back curtain is the entire set on tour, compared to the state of the art technical one in Kazakhstan, it shows off the bold, fluid virtuosity of the dancers.  It is all the more remarkable that the females modern ballet dancers are often on point as naturally as if they were barefoot .

The program  includes classic and modern dance as well as original compositions by renowned choreographers, including Astana Ballet’s  newest presentation: MASTERPIECES. The Astana Ballet Theater has toured all over the world with performances in Paris, Beijing, Vienna, Budapest, Tokyo, Brussels and last year’s performance at the Lincoln Center in New York City. 

The heart-stopping The Heritage of the Great Steppe Kazakh folk dance, full of thunderous music and pounding artistic imagery is alone worth the price of admission (see below).  A more regal, earthy segment is danced by female dancers (above).  

Also will be three neoclassical one-act ballets, which include two pieces by Brazilian choreographer Ricardo Amarante: Love Fear Loss, a ballet set to songs by Edith Piaf that focuses on Piaf’s remarkable life story; and A Fuego Lento, a ballet that uses the rhythms of a Samba and Tango to tell a passionate story about the flush of first love.  The very different, often extreme undulating movements of the dancers that seem to be a signature of this tour, compared to the much more rigid, straight lines of the tango dance make for an exhilarating experience!

The final one-act , Love’s Lost Idols, is by the renowned New York-based choreographer Nicolo Fonte, who is known for his daring and original approach to dance.

Astana Ballet Theater is named after the country’s capital city.  It reflects the described as having building that “rise up implausibly from the flat plains of oil-rich Kazakhstan to form a city stuck between a Soviet past and an aspirational present.  Founded in 2012 on the initiative of the Head of State Nursultan Nazarbayev, the first performance of the Theater took place in July 2013.  Audiences fell in love immediately. Today the team’s thousands of fans can be found not only in Kazakhstan, but also abroad.

The unique multi-genre repertoire of the Theater is constantly replenished with masterpieces of world and national classics, original choreographic performances. The main stage on which the company perfoms is “THE ASTANA BALLET THEATER”, which opened in December 2016.

The latest technologies of mobile and lifting-lowering mechanics are used for scene transformation. The lighting complex includes traditional theatrical devices and systems, as well as the latest innovative developments in this field. The possibilities of the scene of “Astana Ballet” Theater open up space for embodiment of the most daring and original ideas for producers and stage designers. For more information and to book tickets to the CA West Coast tour please visit: //astanaballetusatour.com

For the first time EVER, the esteemed company will be making their West Coast debut in California with their first tour stop hitting  San Francisco before traveling to Los Angeles and San Diego/Escondido.  For tickets, see:  www.EventTicketBoss.com.  Astana Ballet’s west coast performances took place San Francisco at the Herbst Theater, in San Diego at the Spreckels Theatre,  at the California Center for the Arts in Escondido and plus Los Angeles performance on Nov. 22 at the Saban Theater. All performances start at 7:30 p.m.

Given little is known about Kazakhstan, the dance group is a marvelous window into the culture and arts of this country.

And what would we be eating if we were to be in Kazakhstan dining before a performance?  Foods for high energy and a lot of movement  – unlike the “calorie crazy” with anything starchy former Cirque du Soleil troupe’s former diet and their much more trendy, vegetarian based current one.

Kazakh cuisine is traditionally is focused on mutton (sheep) and horse meat, plus milk products. For hundreds of years, Kazakhs were herders who raised fat-tailed sheep, Bactrian camels, and horses, relying on these animals for transportation, clothing, and food.  The nomadic way of list has influenced cooking techniques and major ingredients, with one outstanding one being preservation that include salting and drying meat, along with a preference for sour milk.   Meat in various forms, and primarily boiled, then served in large pieces, is traditional.  Kazakhs cared so much for their horses, especially for horses which they intended to slaughter, they are known to keep them apart from other animals and feed them so much they had difficulty moving—keeping them separate from other animals and feeding them so much that they often became so fat they had difficulty moving.

(photo courtesy of e-history. kz)

Checking through lists it seems that most agree on these top ten.  All reflect the nomadic lifestyle and the requirement of food for a lot of energy because of the climate.  Meat is dominant; vegetarianism just about non-existent.  Some dishes may appear extraordinary or even strange, but everything is worth trying at least once.

1. Beshbarmak: The national dish consists of boiled horse meat or mutton with large noodles and onions. Traditionally beshbarmak is served on a common platter and eaten with fingers  and the name translates to “five fingers”).   Similar to Indian custom, the family and guests sit on the floor around a low-lying table called dastarkhan.

2. Kazy   The meat of this traditional sausage made from the rib meat of horses is stuffed inside the animal’s intestines and then usually dried or smoked before it is boiled for consumption. Kazy is an important part of any celebratory meal.

3. Kuyrdak Kuyrdak is a national dish made from cow’s, horse’s or sheep’s chopped heart, liver, kidneys boiled in oil, and served with onion and pepper.

4. Sorpa Sorpa is a traditional hot broth usually drunk after eating beshbarmak.   This is often served with Kurt, a type of cheese made from dehydrated sour cream by forming small balls and letting it dry. Kurt was historically useful for long treks on horseback across the steppe.

Airan is an almost liquid yogurt prepared from fermented cow’s milk.

Known for it’s delicious flavor,  Kumysa dairy product made from mare’s milk often fermented in big skin bags for as many as several days has alcohol content. Shubat Shubat is camel’s milk made in the same way as kumys, and both are known to have wonderful health properties.

Baursaks, the popularKazakh national dish for celebratory occasions made from spherical or triangular pieces of dough and fried in oil can be prepared sweet or not. Sometimes it is described as a type of Asian doughnuts.  The smell of the oil and the frying baursak floats high into the sky so that your dead loved ones can feed on the aroma and enjoy them with you. Shelpek Shelpek is a flat cake made in the same way as baursaks.

Los Angeles Restaurants Feature International Thanksgivings

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Los Angeles restaurants serving ethnic and regional menus this year offer a variety of truly splendid and festive menus.  These are three exceptional one Le Petit Paris LA’s Thanksgiving Menu will offer options such as Scallops, Crab Cakes, Stuffed Turkey Medallions, Vegan Pie, Smoked Pork Ham, Pecan Pie, and Pumpkin Choux and will be available from 10:30 AM to 10 PM on Thursday, November 28th. The cost is $65 for adults and $25 for children under ten. 

Le Petit Paris in DTLA serving Thanksgiving

The glorious restaurant, owned by French restaurateurs David and Fanny Rolland, is in the historic El Dorado building and features multiple skylights, a mezzanine level, a lounge, chandeliers, and much more.

Le Petit Paris, 418 / 420 S Spring Street, Los Angeles, CA 90013, (213) 217 4445.  For details please check info@lepetitparisla.com

Le Petit Paris in DTLA

Old Town Pasadena’s  Mi Piace offers a big Italian family feast with a menu by Executive Chef Gil Saulnier available from 12:00 noon to 11:00 pm featuring traditional, and exotic savory specials.  The Roasted Bone Marrow served with Cowboy bacon shallot jam and toasted ciabatta is an excellent example. The dramatic Seafood Platter to share features a half-dozen Fanny Bay oysters, Alaskan crab leg, lobster tail, and jumbo shrimp, served with mignonette, cocktail sauce, tartar sauce, and fresh lemon.

The dramatic Seafood Platter at Mi Piace ((Photo Credit:  acuna-hansen)

Much more Italian in nature is the  Mediterranean Oratta which is  a grilled herb-stuffed whole sustainable Sea Bass, tomatoes, capers, kalamata olives, radicchio, and arugula salad; the Slow Braised Lamb Shank prepared Mediterranean style and accompanied with braised vegetables and baby white potatoes, or the decadent Maine Lobster & Mussel Spaghetti served with a whole fresh Maine lobster, New Zealand green-lipped mussels, San Marzano tomatoes, orange zest, and lobster broth saffron sauce. And of course there is the Entrées start with the Traditional Oven Roasted Turkey – a plate full of roasted organic turkey, mashed potatoes, haricot vert, yams, cranberry sauce, Italian sausage, porcini mushrooms, signature chestnut stuffing, and house-made corn bread.

Mi Piace’s award-winning wines pair beautifully with the dishes.  Begin the party with one of Mi Piace’s New Fall Cocktails such as the Holy Grail comprised of Evan Williams Black Label Bourbon, Moscatel Pisco, egg whites, bee pollen, ginger, and lemon juice.

The Mi Piace Feast, Holy Grail, Lobster & Mussels, Mediterranean Orrata, The Italian Job (Photo Credit:  acuna-hansen)

 Mi Piace will be open from 8:00 am to 11:00 pm for breakfast, lunch and dinner service  with a special Thanksgiving Dinner Menu from 12:00 noon to 11:00 pm. 25 East Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena, CA 91105; 626.795.3131; www.MiPiace.com

The Holy Grail at Mi Piace (Photo Credit:  acuna-hansen)

The Raymond 1886 welcomes family and friends into their Historic Craftsman Cottage in Pasadena with new Executive Chef Jason Francisco’s very special regional Thanksgiving Menu. Starter’s include the Creamy Butternut Squash Soup with crème fraiche and crispy sage, or the Apple Gorgonzola Salad filled with apples, gorgonzola, red onions, candied pecans, crispy bacon, and bibb lettuce in a golden balsamic vinaigrette. A more exotic dish is the  Braised Venison Wellington served in a puff pastry with shaved asparagus and a pomegranate reduction, or the vegan Cauliflower Steak served with spaghetti squash Aglio e Olio, brussels sprout leaves, and pumpkin seed pesto. Mary’s Turkey Breast accompanied with a rosemary chestnut stuffing, old fashioned gravy, and cranberry licorice sauce offers a more traditional plate.

The patio at The Raymond (Photo Credit:  acuna-hansen)

The Raymond (Photo Credit:  acuna-hansen)

Complimentary Traditional Sides  include Chef Francisco’s Smoked Gouda Mashed Potatoes, Crispy Brussels Sprouts, Garlic Herb Potatoes, Roasted Heirloom Carrots and Creamed Corn.

Pastry Chef Mignon Jones’ Desserts offer a choice of Pumpkin Cheesecake with pumpkin seed brittle, or  Apple Pie served with cinnamon crisps.

The Raymond 1886 will offer Thanksgiving at The Raymond for $85.00 (per adult) and $42 (children ages 12 and under) from noon to 7 PM.  1250 South Fair Oaks Avenue, Pasadena, CA 91105; 626.441.3136; www.TheRaymond.com  

New BAKER’S PASSPORT COOKBOOK Tells An international Story

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Sharing a meal is the best way to become acquainted with a new culture.  Anthony Bourdain made this popular idea visible to an entire new generation by way of his tv show.  And baked goods being everyone’s favorite all over the world strengthens this idea even more.  Think delicate French crepes or South Indian masala dosas, which are only two of the versions of one famous  dessert with versions all over the world.

In her new cookbook, A Baker’s Passport (Amazon/2019), Susie shares over 200 technique-driven recipes culled from her global travels and her award-winning blog, Food Market Gypsy, designed to inspire home cooks as well as experienced chefs.

Baker Susie’s Mise en place – we were reminded of Baker Alex Peño telling us that what he valued most from culinary school was organization

“Susie” is the name used in movies Acclaimed food writer, pastry chef and educator, Susie Norris, adds to the “baked” concept  “everything that comes out of the oven: soufflés, meat and poultry, cakes, sweet and savory pies, breads, and of course cookies.”  This translates into home-baked meals and mood-lifting sweets from around the world.

One of our favorite baked dishes with a twist: potato crisps with dill sauce

Toward her goal in A Baker’s Passport of “bringing the joy of regional baking home,” Chef Norris tries to  teach techniques for each classic baked dish,  and introduce the cook to unique heirloom recipes, and the context of their origins.  A Baker’s Passport presents recipes with easy-to-follow steps and measurements.  This is

Beef Wellington, Black Forrest Cake , Cranberry Loaf, Gourgeres, Macarons, New England Turkey Dinner, Oyster Stuffing, Popovers, Prime Rib Roast, Shaker Lemon Pie, Speculoos, Sticky Toffee Pudding with Whiskey Sauce, Sweet Potatoes with Agave & Pecan Crust and  Yule Log (Boche de Noel) are a few of the highlights 

“I’m a lifelong, culinary road-tripper,” explains Norris. “This book visits beautiful countries with artisan baking traditions.  By exploring recipes in their regions, we help keep those traditions alive and relevant.” For example, Grissini (bread sticks) ,” the little sticks of Turin” in A Baker’s Passport were so much a favorite of Napoleon that he championed construction of a railway line from the base of the Italian Alps to Paris. There is an introductory note that it takes a little longer for this dough to rise, and a serving note that they can be wrapped with prosciutto and served with melon.

Grissini (bread sticks) ,” the little sticks of Turin” in A Baker’s Passport by Susie Norris.

A Baker’s Passport Party Menu  By Susie Norris 

  • Rice Balls (Arancini)
  • Breadsticks (Grissini)
  • Potato Crisps with Dill Sauce
  • Vegetable Quiche
  • Chicken Blanc with Chardonnay

Chicken Blanc with Chardonnay with thyme, Tarragon and Melissa’s Perfect Sweet Onion from A Baker’s Passport

A plate from the sample party menu in A Baker’s Passport by Susie Norris

 Coconut Caramel Girl Scout Cookies 

Yule Log Cake (Buche de Noel)    

 Cranberry Pecan Loaf 

One wonderful recipe that represents Susie Norris is her French Chocolate Pots de Crème

Chocolate Pots de Crème FROM Chantilly, FRANCE

Yield: 4–6 servings

Level: Medium

This is the quintessence of the simple and important French dessert. As chocolate slowly swept through the European aristocracy in the 1700s, elegant pots of cream—some for drinking, some for holding little dessert custards —became a feature of a well-laid table, along with English silver and thin Chinese plates. Today, you can find antique sets of these lidded vessels in vintage shops or from fine porcelain purveyors. The favorite filling, a dark chocolate baked custard, became part of classic French cuisine. Today, chefs serve it in individual ramekins for dessert. Who doesn’t become child-like and content at the sight of your very own little dish of smooth, chilled, dark chocolate custard? It’s topped with a dollop of Chantilly Cream, created in the aristocratic town of Chantilly.

Equipment: medium bowl, small saucepan, ramekins or 1 (9-inch) cake pan, deep baking dish

Time: 1 hour (plus 2 hours for chilling)

For the Pots de Crème:

Ingredients

  • 4 ounces dark chocolate, melted
  • 1 egg
  • 2 egg yolks
  • ¼ cup (2 ounces) granulated sugar
  • 1 cup (8 ounces) whole milk
  • ½ cup (4 ounces) heavy cream
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 teaspoon salt

For the Chantilly Cream:

Ingredients

  • 1 cup (8 ounces) heavy cream
  • 3 tablespoons powdered sugar, sifted
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla extract
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • Preheat the oven to 300°F.

Place the melted chocolate in a medium bowl, then add the egg, egg yolks, and sugar and whisk together; set aside.

In a small saucepan, heat the milk, cream, vanilla, and salt together over medium heat and bring to a simmer (also known as “scalding”) with bubbles along the edges of the liquid. Pour a small amount (about ½ cup) into the chocolate mixture and stir. Continue to add the milk mixture slowly to the chocolate mixture, stirring constantly until all of the milk mixture is incorporated.

Using a ladle or large spoon, divide the batter into 4–6 (3-inch-wide) ramekins. Place the ramekins in a deep baking dish filled with 2 inches of water. Bake for about 30–35 minutes until the sides of the custard are firm and the interiors are slightly fluid in the center.

Remove the ramekins from the water bath and cool completely. Refrigerate at least 2 hours.

Meanwhile, prepare the Chantilly Cream. Combine the cream, powdered sugar, vanilla extract, and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Beat to full volume, about 2–3 minutes.

Top the custards with Chantilly Cream. Serve on a plate with cookies and berries.

Pinot Grigio’s Stars at the “2019 Simply Italian Great Wines” U.S. Tour

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Italians are intense about their wines.  At the 2019 Simply Italian Great Wines U.S. Tour that recently whooshed through town last month, we were at the first seminar bright and early, eager to learn more about Pinot Grigio as a wine we already love and respect. Yet proud seminar leader first quizzed us to be absolutely certain we would never think of it as “neutral,” a description  apparently not  very ceremoniously pinned onto it by restaurants.

Setting up samplings for the trade in the outdoor SLS patio

The day for trade and the media was sponsored by the new Consorzio Tutela Vini D.O.C. delle Venezie, representing an appellation formed in 2017. It is the largest in Italy.  Back-to-back seminars, crammed with information and tastings by producers who had flown over from Italy,  literally filled almost every hour in alternate rooms so that one could be set up while the other was filled.  It proved a contrast to the more leisurely day-long experience with Spanish wines and a food tasting to split the day,

A copy of the back-to-back seminars

Laura Donadoni, was lead speaker,  with Nazareno Vicenzi of the Consorzio.    In typical Italian fashion, Signora Donadoni apologized many times for her flawless English and lyrical accent.

Nazareno Vicenzi of the Consorzio.

And it was worth it!  Delle Venezie,the biggest Pinot Grigio producing area in Italy and the world, has the perfect climate for it. It incorporates three territories, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Trentino and Veneto, located between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea.   Consorzio rules include limiting production to improve quality. The wines must be 85% Pinot Grigio, with the remaining 15 % composed of approved non-aromatic grapes.

Bottles are carefully labeled for each seminar tasting

The Italian style of Pinot Grigio is high in acidity and minerality but lower in tropical fruit. “The level of acidity and freshness set it apart,” Signora Donadoni.  Prices for the dewy, crisp Pinot Grigios also make it very affordable for everyday and party drinking.

The Pinot Grigio grape thrives in a cool, temperate climate and not in hot areas, so wines produced in warm areas are not typical, Donadoni said.   This is why Italian wines are so alive and fresh French Pinot Grigio, ,we know as Pinot Gris, is harvested later.   Many, including myself, find them not as lively and learned at the seminar that this is because they are more similar to a Chardonnay.

Italy grows the most Pinot Grigio in the world (43%) followed by the United States (15%). The USA is also the largest export market for Italian Pinot Grigio (37%). The wine is so popular that it is grown almost everywhere, even in the small country of  Moldavia (4%).

Kris Pinot Grigio delle Venezie D.O.C. 2018, from Kris Winery, producer of quality Pinot Grigio since 1993. Veneto fruit provides the delicate floral notes and the classic almond finish so typical of this region. Grapes sourced from the southwest-facing slopes of the village of Montagna in Alto Adige receive ample sun and contribute ripe yet fresh citrus and pear fruit.  The wine is dry, with a citrusy nose and bright acidity. It aged several months in stainless steel before bottling.

Voga Pinot Grigio Delle Venezie D.O.C. 2018 produced byEnoitalia S.P.A., the largest privately owned winery in Italy. It’s delicate in the mouth and with hints of ripe peaches, apples and vegetables. Serve it with pasta, white meat and fresh cheeses.

Ai Palazzi Dorsoduro Pinot Grigio delle Venezie D.O.C. 2018,from Masottina winery. The wine was  fermented with select yeasts in steel tanks for 6 months, followed by 3 months in the bottle. It’s complex, with layers of flavor, and can go with richer foods.

Kroger Pinot Grigio delle Venezie D.O.C. 2018, from Cantina di La-Vis e Valle di Cembra, S.C.A. Grown by a cooperative in the Adige Valley, it’s made from 100% Pinot Grigio. The production is small, just 8,000 bottles a year.

Cadis Pinot Grigio delle Venezie D.O.C. 2018, a more ripe style of wine from a hillside vineyard. Nice with risotto, grilled fish and sushi. The winery, Cantina di Soave S.A.C., was founded in 1898.

Ecco Domani Pinot Grigio delle Venezie D.O.C.2018, a delicate wine more on the floral side, good to serve with lighter dishes including fish, eggs, pasta with vegetables and white meats. This wine blends in 5% Chardonnay. The winery is Nosio S.P.A.

Villa San Martino Pinot Grigio delle Venezie D.O.C. 2018, from the winery Cantina di Bertiolo S.P.A. As you taste it, think of grapefruit, white peaches and aromatic herbs. It’s a good choice for Asian dishes.

Pinot Grigio delle Venezie D.O.C. 2018, from Bidoli winery. This wine has a delicate pinkish color and the tactile sensation of a rosé wine. It can accompany pizza and other tomato dishes that don’t usually go with white wines.

Historic Dewey’s Moravian Cookies New Regional Americana Flavors

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DEWEY’S southern Bakery opened and in operation since 1930

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Moravian spice cookies made by Dewey’s Bakery are as rich in taste as they are in history.  “The creators of the cookies learned that by rolling the dough until it was whisper-thin and baking it slowly, they could create a cookie with a light, crisp texture and capture the intense flavors,” we are told by the bakery when asked their secret.  The best of precise German technique and under-rated creative Czech baking went into this creation.  This is because Czech bakers incorporated all the richness of the best of Europe as pulled together by the Austo-Hungarian Empire.  Historically during the early part of the twentieth century, Moravians, a subgroup of Czechs living Moravia which was an area in eastern Czechoslavakia of about 15,000 square mile, also been home of a large German-speaking population until 1945.

Still crackly to the bite, the current machine-made larger cookies still hold the very essence of distilled spices and molasses prepared from a special blend.

Dewey’s cookies are perfect for the most refined coffee or tea party or as a snack with milk

While the spice recipe is the most traditional and well-known of the Moravian cookies, other versions have appeared over the years, including Sugar, Lemon Bar, Chocolate Chip, Birthday Cake (with sprinkles!) and Banana Pudding, which are available nation wide at stores like Walmart and Safeway (For locations, please see //www.deweys.com .  We were treated to a sneak peek of the new flavors now available online, and in stores in early 2020:  Triple chocolate Brownie, Old Fashioned Glazed Doughnut and Cinnamon Bun.  Caution:  The lemon bar and “doughnut shop” cookies can become addictive because of their tantalizing “bar” and “doughnut” textures rarely found in a cookie, to say nothing of their clear, delectable taste.

Related to German Lebkuchen, the original recipes go all the way back to the 18th century  Rolled paper thin, the original Moravian cookie earned a reputation as the “World’s Thinnest Cookie,” pretty much possible only when hand-rolled.  The cookie classic first appeared in the Colonial American communities of the Moravian Church centuries ago.

Dewey’s Bakery announces itself in the enticing mailing box. Open it and brown raffia surrounds each package which is designed to ensure whole, broken cookies.

Each bag holds a smaller, waxed bag with a tray of six cookies inside

The cookie is especially popular around, and usually associated with, Christmas in communities with a strong Moravian background such as Winston-Salem, North Carolina and Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, which still maintain the two largest Moravian communities in the United States.  The tradition was for prominent homes in the community to hosted open houses and display elaborate Nativity scenes and offer cookies to guests. These scenes were often built around large tree stumps found in the woods near the town.

The newest addition to the Dewey’s Bakery line is the Triple Chocolate Brownie Cookie

The spice cookie was central to almost every special occasion, but many families also made a sugar cookie.  Made  with butter it was flavored heavily with nutmeg.  Traditions that were handed down from generation to generation began when families making their own cookie cutters to pass along. The shapes were primarily farm animals, as part of the Nativity tradition. Families often had a few cookie cutters which were large and intricate and took real skill to cut out and bake.

Although there are a few bakeries that still roll and cut the cookies by hand, some now use a mechanized process for making the cookies in order to meet the demand, which does not allow for as thin a cookie.  Today the “wow” tasty new flavors, along with the original ones, keep the cookie in demand.

International Flavors in the New Raymond AND Raymond 1886 Menus

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) It’s easy to miss the sudden driveway turnoff when you’re driving to the Raymond Restaurant and 1886 Bar.  And it’s easy to miss this extraordinary, low key historic restaurant that is actually the former caretaker’s home of the famous hotel.  Care is given to thoughtful, seasonally changing menus, which currently feature impeccable international flavors and wild international cocktails. Chef Jason Francisco brings with him all the flavors and feeling of his native Hawaii and experience at top restaurants.  For the history of the hotel, please see //www.theraymond.com/history/

Owner Leslie Levy and approachable Chef Jason Francisco. who even told how our favorite dishes were created

Owner Levy’s attention to detail shows even in the luxurious grey linen napkins, a story in and of themselves, and known to naturally fold over silverware and stay on the lap.

The Raymond Restaurant in Pasadena has been a top favorite or our’s through the years , and currently its intriguing international flavors.  The Raymond is as well known for their spirits as their food.  We looked over the new menu while savoring the Château Tournefeuille 2016 Lalande de Pomerol, recommended by the server.   This wine is rich and concentrated, with the dark-fruit of Merlot dominant.  Licorice and dark-chocolate and black flavors make it friendly and a natural choice for pairings with robust vegetable and meat dishes that included pork.

We “fell in love at first sight’ with chef Jason Francisco’s  exquisite Beet Salad in the SOMETHING GREEN section of the menu.  There is the option to add Chicken Breast ($6), Grilled Mahi  or Hanger Steak  ($10) to each salad for a complete meal.  The “green” in this dish is the micro arugula roasted beets, yellow beet puree and beet dust.  A ball of goat cheese rolled pistachio, plus a whimsical little chunk of honeycomb complete the plate.

We tend to think of beets as “American” and yet they are actually very European in “roots” and use.

The Beet Salad on the lunch menu of THE RAYMOND 1886

From the SOMETHING ELSE menu section, a Canadian Snow Crab ($18) inside its banana leave case is more of a mousse than a crab “cake”.  We could have polished off thetextured remoulade on its own, for Chef Jason’s inventive, mouth-watering use of international ingredients.  This included Dijon mustard, turmeric, masala, capers and golden beet. The crab was a mousse instead of an expected “cake.”

Canadian Snow Crab with a world-class internationally seasoned remoulade at  THE RAYMOND 1886

in the SOMETHING ELSE section, a beautifully plated French Steak Frite ($29) features a half-pound of Aspen Ridge beer in a hangar steak.  The garlic fries are so subtly seasoned with garlic and so perfectly prepared by par-boiling before a quick-fry that we almost finished all of them (and they were on another dish, too!  We recommend ordering the steak with a salad as a choice).

Steak Frite at THE RAYMOND 1886

The modest Ms. Jones Buttercake ($8) by Pastry Chef, Mignon Jones is a gem: moist, dense and yet light.􏰊􏰌􏰎􏰒􏰍􏰐􏰆 􏰎􏰙􏰙􏰏􏰐􏰒􏰋 􏰑􏰕􏰔􏰔􏰎􏰗 It is a delightful ending to any meal, with roasted apples, cinnamon anglaise, pomegranate gel and toasted almonds.

The Raymond and Raymond 1886 indoors is the perfect place for any festive occasion and to show off the best of LA to visitors. We always linger to the very end of service

Complementing the new international fall menu, new Head Barman Jesus Gomez, introduces a new “Around the World” 2019 Fall Cocktail Menu features eleven cocktails inspired by the bountiful spirits and liqueurs found all over the world.  Gomez worked at 1886 directly under friend and mentor Peter Lloyd Jones.

Gomez honors Cuba as the first of a variety of Latin stops with his  luxurious Hotel Plaza, cocktail: white rum, Carpano Antica, dry vermouth, grenadine syrup, lime juice, Peychaud’s Bitters, and egg white. Puerto Rico naturally features, rum, Bacardi 8, in the El Cid, tied in with banana liqueur, Angostura Bitters, and orange zest.  The Argentinan honoree,  Pablito, prepared with Amass Gin, Camus Cognac, dry vermouth, Lillet Blanc, Anisette, and lemon zest.  The Mexican La Catrina, features Vida Mezcal, Velvet Falernum, house-made strawberry shrub, lime and pineapple juice.  Nathan Baker created the Peruvian  Puku Puku  made with Pisco, house-made tarragon syrup, lemon juice, strawberry, egg white, and Amargo Bitters.   Spain is honored with head barman Jesus GomezAlejandro, made with 7 Leguas Reposado, Punt e Mes, Mr. Black Cold Brew Coffee Liqueur, Licor 43, and cream.

Austria is honored with the  Emilia Romagna created by Luis Nava featuring Rittenhouse Rye, Nocino Walnut Liqueur, Brizard Cacao Liqueur, and heavy cream.  Andrew Cowan’s French-inspired Fall in Normandy features Applejack, Camus Cognac, house-made spiced apple syrup, hot water, lemon zest, and dehydrated pears.

Abby Peoples’ nod to Africa, the Amelonado, features Bourbon, Brizard Cacao Liqueur, St. Vincent Tamarind Syrup, and hot water.

Daily Happy Hour Cocktails, offered Tuesday -Friday, 4 to 6 PM, include a Medicina Latina, comprised of tequila, ginger-honey, lime, and a mezcal spritz.  This was on the very first bar menu in 2010!

We just could not leave out a mention of the Hollywood-inspired Don Lockwood, named for  Gene Kelly’s character in Singin’ in the Rain, featuring bourbon, scotch, maple, and bitters. A Cuba Libre made with rum, Mexican Cola, and a lime wedge honors Havana.

A new Happy Hour Bar Bites Menu also features such international dishes as the Asian DIY Fish Tacos featuring miso marinated Hamachi collar, dashi crispy tortillas, peach and green apple kimchi. It would pair well with barman Miguel Perez’s homage to Japan: Bokken, comprised of Akashi, Drambuie Liqueur, house-made blueberry syrup, and lemon juice.

For more information about hours or reservations, please visit www.TheRaymond.com  or call The Raymond 1886 directly at 626.441.3136.

101 North Eatery & Bar Brings New International Flavors to Historic California Road

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(Gerry Furth-Sides, restaurant photos courtesy of 101 North Eatery & Bar)  Tucked right into the history highway outside of Westlake Village, and just off the Lindero Canyon exit, at 101 North Eatery & Bar, the welcome is professional and warm from the first phone call.  Stellar service matches the  globally-inspired, commanding dishes arriving from the kitchen.   Heaters are on the patio to enjoy the early evening view of the surrounding canyons (see above).  Indoor seating is also ample, with wide open spaces and more private nooks.

Kim of “Latin Asian” toasts 101 North Eatery & Bar and Lucas for our great view outside

The expansive northern canyon view at 101 North Eatery & Bar

101 North Eatery & Bar includes ample seating in a wide open, airy dining room and more intimate, private sections

Out favorite “must-have” dish is Chef Anthony Alaimo’s Saltspring Island Mussels & Spicy Nduja sausage, with wedges of grilled ciabatta ($19)   The welcome heat of the Nduja sausage and seasonings is startling and yet natural to give umami definition to the subtle flavor and texture of plentiful plump, succulent mussels.

Must-have: Mussels & Nduja Saltspring Island Mussels, spicy nduja sausage, grilled ciabatta $19 at 101 North Eatery & Bar

A closer look at the spicy nduja sausage and large, plump Saltspring Island Mussels Mussels at 101 North Eatery & Bar

Spanish Octopus, another original seafood dish, starts with grilled octopus and corona beans with aji amarillo ($19).  The variety of textures, flavors and colors are unexpected and again, so natural.  Iberico Ham & Bacalao (aged iberico ham, salt cod croquette, castelvetrano olives ($14) brings authentic flavors of Spain to another dish that features ingredients from land and sea.

Colorful and beautifully balanced Spanish Octopus at 101 North Eatery & Bar

Chef Anthony includes his version of trendy roasted cauliflower with Wood Roasted Cauliflower with Calabrian Chili and honey Labneh ($14) for vegetarians and paleos.

Wood Roasted Cauliflower with Calabrian Chili and honey Labneh ($14) at 101 North Eatery & Bar

In the entreé section, the refined yet hearty Cumin Rubbed Lamb Rack​ served with smoked eggplant, fregola pasta and cucumber mint tzatziki sauce is definitely of world class.  Highly praised as well is the Mediterranean Sea Bass ​with roasted Babé Farms cauliflower, pine nuts and a green romesco sauce.  Steak and pasta entrees, wood-fired pizzas and artisan salads complete the list.

at 101 North Eatery & Bar

Desserts include classics prepared with a twist, such as the brûlée.  As far as this writer is concerned, the abundance of coffee, more coffee, hazelnut and pistachios in any  list ranks high.  And ask for ice cream only, and you got it!   Now we will try the Bomboloni with hazelnut gelato and vanilla sugar next time!  Vegan Coconut Crèm brûlée with coconut milk, lime, pineapple and toasted pistachio is a dish also appreciated by non-vegans.

Vegan Coconut Crèm brûlée at 101 North Eatery & Bar – bruleed inside instead of outside on top!

Bomboloni with hazelnut gelato and vanilla sugar at 101 North Eatery & Bar

For location, hours and menu details, please see  (//www.101northeateryandbar.com)

The lush bar at 101 North Eatery & Bar deserves its own story.   The specially drinks this season features our favorite tequila and mezcal, and the happy hour specials deserve special mention.  Bottomless Mimosas at Sunday Brunch, Happy Hour specials and Tipsy Tuesday show the attention given this section!  The Spirit of Oaxaca is prepared with mezcal, freshly squeezed lemon, tartlet pear and sage. Going West (below) is rich with whiskey, mezcal, taverna amaro and orange essence.

The wall length bar 101 North Eatery & Bar

Our favorites, tequila and mezcal, are featured in many of this season’s cocktails

Chef Anthony Alaimo’s background makes his outstanding skill with international flavors understandable.  Not only has he filled the 101 Eatery kitchen with local talents, but the restaurant works with local farmers and growers to support other local businesses and their surrounding community.

A native New Yorker, Chef Anthony has cooked in numerous award-winning restaurants all over the world, including Europe, Asia and the United States. Anthony  found his calling at a young age when he began working after school in Italian restaurants throughout New York city and then up the Atlantic coast, adding to his knowledge of working with local ingredients in the bustling seafood industry of New England.  It was a career-defining time as the chef was mentored in the art of blending unique seasonal ingredients and traditional Italian flavors.

Chef Anthony’s   culinary ambitions brought him into many notable kitchens throughout the United States and Europe, which ultimately led him to the Bellagio in Las Vegas where he went on to work at legendary restaurant Le Cirque with Sirio Miccioni’s team. Resort mogul Steve Wynn and the Wynn Resorts organization later presented Anthony with an opportunity to create an Italian restaurant in Macau, China where he then spent nine years as the Chef De Cuisine. During his tenure at Il Teatro at Wynn Macau, he and his team earned the most prestigious hallmark of a young chef’s career: a Michelin star in addition to multiple Forbes 5 star designations. His travels throughout Asia and abroad have finally brought him back to Los Angeles where he is able to share these experiences and his passion through his menu.

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