Canadian Ice Wine – Still Only North of the Border
(Gerry Furth-Sides) If absinthe makes the heart grow fonder, so Ice Wine makes it grow warm. And as both of these treasured spirits are introduced in local stores and bars locally, they are all the more prized.
Sophisticated Toronto is still known for its Stratford Shakespeare festival, its treasure trove of multi-cultural cuisines, and the Toronto Maple Leafs, but its local, fine wineries, are also earning a reputation as big as Niagara Falls for icewine. (//winesofontario.org) While Canada and Germany are the world’s largest producers of ice wines (75 percent of the ice wine in Canada coming from Ontario), local Inniskillin is the major producer that put it on the international map.
So what is icewine (in German, Eiswein)? The type of dessert wine is produced from grapes harvested frozen while still on the vine. And only healthy grapes keep in good shape until harvest, which in extreme cases can occur after the New Year in Canada. Unlike most other wine-producing regions, Canada, particularly the Niagara Peninsula consistently undergoes freezing in winter and has become the world’s largest ice wine producer
The sugars and other dissolved solids do not freeze, but the water does, allowing a more concentrated grape “must” to be pressed from the frozen grapes. In Canada, as in Austria and Germany, grapes must freeze naturally to be called icewine, outlawing the mechanical freezing method known as cryoextraction.
Natural ice wines require a specific hard freeze point to occur about several months following normal harvest. The tricky part is that if a freeze does not come quickly enough, the grapes may rot and the crop will be lost. If the freeze is too severe, no juice can be extracted. If the grapes are too hard it can break the pneumatic press. And alas, the longer the harvest is delayed, the more fruit will be lost to wild animals and dropped fruit. Since the fruit must be pressed while still frozen, pickers work in freezing night or early morning temperatures, and cellar workers press grapes in unheated spaces.
The high sugar level in the mustleads to a slower-than-normal fermentation (months compares to the usual days or weeks) using special strains of yeast.
But the resulting more concentrated wine has a refreshing sweetness balanced by high acidity, a tingly, wintry taste. Because of the relatively small amounts of wine able to be produced due to the labor-intensive and risky production process, ice wines can be expensive and are usually sold in half-bottles of 375 ml or even 200ml.
Frozen grapes were used to make wine as far back as ancient Roman times, according to Pliny the Elder (AD 23 – 79). Apparently this wasn’t a big success because the next post-Roman mention didn’t occur until 1830 when commercial production began in Rheinhessen, Germany. Even that was accidental. The story goes that during a harsh winter, some wine-growers left grapes on the vine for use as animal fodder. . When it was noticed that these grapes yielded very sweet must, they were pressed and presto! Ice wine
Fast forward to 1960 when the pneumatic bladder (looking just like it sounds it might) press was invented, making production practical. Next came electrical lighting driven by portable generators to assist harvest in the cold hours of morning darkness before the grapes thaw, and plastic films used for “packaging” the vines to protect them from birds until a frost.
In 1975 Inniskillin Wines founders, Karl Kaiser, a studious, Austrian-born chemist, and Donald Ziraldo, a young Italian Canadian agriculture graduate incorporated and were granted the first winery license in Ontario, Canada since prohibition. www.inniskillin.com.
By 1984, Kaiser produced his first Icewine to first national and then international fanfare, with participation is highly esteemed wine shows such as Vinexpo and Vinitaly, and placement in the finest venues around the world. Inniskillin Icewine even found its way to the cellars of the Imperial Palace of Japan. In 1991 came the international breakthrough when Inniskillin’s Vidal Icewine won a Grand Prix d’Honneur at Vinexpo in Bordeaux for its “astounding luscious freshness.”
Inniskillin also first produced the first commercial charmat method (without using carbonation) sparkling ice wine in 1998, soon internationally acclaimed, in response to a a challenge by Canadian wine writer, Konrad Ejbich, who in 1988 accidently produced a sparkling icewine in his home cellar.
Ziraldo, a one-man worldwide campaigner for the excellence of Canadian Wines, was founding chair of the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) and introduced the VQA system of ratings to the industry in 1989 with strict standards – all of which apply to Inniskillin ice wine.
You Stink – and I Love You Moldy Cheese
(Gerry Furth-Sides) While the idea of mold on most types of food is not a pleasing one, the story about mold on more complex cheeses can help change your mind, including those with wonderfully wrinkly rinds such as the one below. A perfect introduction or introduction to new international cheese choices for Moldy Cheese Day on October 9.
Langres: Pasteurized cow’s milk, traditional rennet, aged 5 weeks- Tribalat Germain- Langres de Champenois region of France
Receives washings of marc de Champagne during its ripening period of 15-21 days. The rind is colored with annatto. It features a curdy and slightly springy texture with smooth, subtle flavors, and a long finish.
Pairs with: Laetitia Brut Rosé and or Chamisal Vineyards Rosé and Peloton Cellars Pinot and 2015 Grenache
Shropshire Blue: Pasteurized cow’s milk, traditional rennet- Neal’s Yard Dairy-Colston Bassett and District Dairy, Colston Bassett, Nottinghamshire, England
In short, this cheese is an orange Stilton tinted orange with annatto. Made at the Coslton Bassett Dairy. As Colston Bassett are some of the last Stilton-makers to hand ladle the curd of their cheese from the vats to the draining tables where it acidifies over & they also do the same thing for their Shropshire Blue.
Creamy, savory cheese with a slight yeasty bite from the blueing.
Pairs with Chamisal Vineyards Estate Chardonnay 2014, Edna Valley
Soumaintrain: Pasteurized cow, traditional rennet, washed-rind with Marc de Bourgogne, aged about 2 months- Berthaut- Soumaintrain (province of Yvonne), Burgundy France, northwest of Dijon
A farmhouse washed-rinded cheese with a very soft, buttery interior. Cheeses are soft and allowed to drain naturally during production. Soumaintrain is only washed with brine (salted water) which gives the rind a white to orange coloration. It is naturally wrinkled and lightly floral. This cheese has a smooth consistency is soft to the touch, and its flavor is typical of cheeses from the region: quite strong and sweet in the mouth. The Its flavor is reminiscent of heavy cream with a delightful tang. Won the Gold Medal in Paris in 2013.
Pairs with Cambria Estate Wines 2015 Seeds of Empowerment Chardonnay and Peacock Cellars 2014 Viognier Paso Robles
For detailed information about which cheeses are best and healthy, consult an expert. Beautiful ways of arranging platters and pairing cheeses are also available at these shops, such as Fromagerie Sophie: www.fromageriesophie.com.
According to Sophie: Some molds have a peppery taste. Others have an intense flavor that includes a bit of bitterness. That bitterness enhances the fruity characteristics of the wine. Once your mouth is covered by the cheese and the flavors have bloomed, you then take a sip of the wine. The wine washes away some of the cheese and mold, reducing those favors to something not so strong. Then the wine’s flavors slowly overtake the peppery and bitter flavors. During this flavor transition, your palette is pleased by the introduction of the sweet and fruity flavors from the wine.
The Devil Made Me Do It! Happy Deviled Egg Day Nov 2
(Gerry Furth-Sides, photos courtesy of Hungry Fan and Chef-author Jenn Segal) Loving bacon and eggs since childhood I have always stood behind, and eaten whole eggs, because they are just so satisfying. (My hunter cat, Jeremiah Johnson prefers this protein as well). On one recommended longtime regime, by a psychic-nutritionist no less, I eat an egg every other day, scrambled or omelette or soft-hard boiled. But I never thought of them as party food.
As I learned once I left home, “deviled” made eggs party food. And it started a long long time ago. The dish’s origin can be seen in recipes for boiled, seasoned eggs as far back as a commonly served first course in ancient Rome, later becoming popular across Europe and in North America. However, the first known print reference to “deviled” appeared in 1786. It was in the 19th century that eggs came to be prepared with mustard, pepper or other ingredients stuffed in the yolk cavity – and came to be known as stuffed, salad or dressed eggs in the south.
Eggs have always played a significant part of every holiday table a symbol of new life, fertility and rebirth, from the spring passover and easter, to the equally ancient Iranian spring equinox custom of decorating eggs on Nowruz, the Iranian New Year.
Deviled eggs, spiked with an ingredient that provides heat, seemed to have earned their name a generation ago in the strongest sense of the term when medical researchers warned that “evil cholesterol in the yolk,” would provoke dire circumstances. Although it spawned an egg white industry, today that has become a mere blip in culinary history.
Hungry Fan’s Daina Falk notes that deviled eggs have now become a sport fan favorite, too. //www.hungryfan.com Falk suggests adding different ethnic spices, seasonings or ingredients is an easy way to put an international spin on the dish, from Avocado and peppers for a Mexican dish, to paprika and diced Hungarian salami for an eastern European one.
Roasted Red Pepper Deviled Eggs with a Mediterranean Flair
By Diana Falk for Hungry Fan
Ingredients:
- 12 eggs
- 3 teaspoons Roasted Red Pepper Hummus
- ¼ cup mayonnaise
- ¼ small red onion, diced
- Jalapeño, diced and to taste
- Salt and pepper to taste
- Garnish:
- Paprika
- Bacon bits
- Pickled red pepper (storebought)
- Cilantro or flat leaf parsley
Directions:
- Place eggs in a wide saucepan. Fill the saucepan with water until the eggs are submerged and bring the water to a boil for 10 minutes.
- Remove the eggs from the pot and transfer them to the refrigerator or a bowl of ice water. Let them cool for about half an hour.
- Remove the shells from each of the eggs. Then slice eggs in half lengthwise.
- Scoop the yolk from each egg and place them all in a bowl.
- Combine the egg yolks with the hummus, mayonnaise, salt, pepper, red onion and jalapeño.
- Put one scoop of the yolk mixture back into each of the cooked eggs. Serve at room temperature, topped with a sprinkle of paprika, a small pinch of bacon bits, pickled red pepper and cilantro or parsley.
Personal Creations Catering Company created a step-by-step basic recipe of how to make a dozen of these creamy, party eggs that is on their website. The directions are the same as for the Hungry Fan version with the following filling ingredients for the dozen eggs above.
Ingredients for filling
- 3 tsp. Dijon mustard
- ¼ cup mayonnaise
- 3 tsp. sweet relish
- Salt and pepper to taste
- Paprika for topping
//localfoodeater.com/french-influence-in-jenn-segals-the-once-upon-a-chef-cookbook/
One of our favorite chefs, Jenn Segal of Once upon a Chef book fame, shared this recipe with a Latin twist to it. Jenn notes that, “Deviled eggs are named such because the mix-ins are often spicy or hot, so these orange-hued beauties spiked with Sriracha make perfect sense.”
To begin, place the eggs in a medium saucepan and fill the pan with enough water so that it covers the eggs by about an inch. Bring to a boil over high heat, then remove the pan from the heat, cover, and let stand for 10 minutes. Place the hard-boiled eggs in a bowl of cold water (or same saucepan) to cool.
Tap each egg on the counter to crack the shell all over, then peel under cold running water. (Gerry note: Rolling them between your hands loosens the shell)
Slice the eggs in half lengthwise, remove the yolks, and place them in the bowl of a mini food processor. Arrange the whites on a serving platter, gently wiping them clean if necessary. To the yolks, add the mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon of the Sriracha, the mustard, the Worcestershire sauce, the salt, the black pepper, and the sugar.
Process until smooth. (If you don’t have a small food processor, pass the yolks through a sieve before combining them with the other ingredients for easier blending without lumps. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Fill a piping bag fitted with an open-star or large plain tip with the yolk mixture. (Alternatively, fill a sealable plastic bag with the yolk mixture, and use your hand to push the mixture to one corner of the bag. Snip off the tip of the bag corner, opening up a 1/4–in hole.) Pipe the yolk mixture evenly into the egg white halves. (Or, simply spoon the yolk mixture into the egg whites for a casual version.)
Sprinkle with paprika and chives, and serve.
For other places to eat deviled eggs out, please check //la.eater.com/maps/best-deviled-eggs-los-angeles
LA First! Martha Stewart WINE & FOOD EXPERIENCE December 1
(Gerry Furth-Sides) Martha Stewart is coming to town with her curated culinary experience for one day. The Grand Tasting spotlights tastings along with a schedule of wine and beverage seminars and cooking demonstrations. The iconic culinary expert will be doing a “Meet & Greet” plus a cooking demonstration on the Culinary Stage located within the Grand Tasting for all guests, as will other event chefs.//wineandfood.usatoday.com/losangeles
Martha Stewart Wine & Food Experience presented by USA TODAY takes place on December 1, 2018, 1:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. (VIP ticketholders have early entry) at the LA Center Studios, 450 S. Bixel St., Los Angeles, CA 90017. This spacious, easily accessible venue is just outside of DTLA.
Restaurants include some of our ethnic favorites, such as: Border Grill Modern Mexican overseen by the iconic Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger.
Long-time key ambassadors of Mexican food and two of the most beloved chefs in Los Angeles history, affectionately known as the “The Two Hot Tamales,” are owner-founder-chefs of Border Grill in Los Angeles and Las Vegas. Among the most popular figures in the entire food industry, they are known for their enthusiasm and promotion of their own Mexican chefs.
Fig & Olive is rarely seen at events and one of our favorites:
//localfoodeater.com/fig-olives-new-world-whole-branzino-feast/
Otium’s Chef Tim Hollingsworth is worth a trip downtown anytime. He is a neighbor of the Center Sound Stage so this is special.
Hamasaku’s casual seafood izakaya and sushi offshoot, Umi by Hamasaku in El Segundo comes from partners Jesse Duron, chef Yoya Takahashi and Hamasaku owner, Michael Ovitz. You can count on Japanese-American Chef Takahashi to be in his usual party mode, serving refined, rich sushi.
Other savory Southern California Wine & Food Experience restaurants include: 1212 Santa Monica; 71 Above (featured in VIP Lounge); Air Food; Cal Mare; CAVA; Chateau Hanare; Bäco Mercat; Bar Amá; C.J. Boyd’s Fried Chicken; CUT Beverly Hills; Dama; Free Play; Gwen and Maude by Curtis Stone; Herringbone Santa Monica; Hock + Hoof; Lovely Eats; Makani; Miro; Mrs. fish; Mrs McCartney’s Teas; Noree Thai on Beverly; Orsa & Winston; P.Y.T.; Sotto; The Bazaar by José Andrés; The Restaurant by MBH; Urban Press Winery Restaurant (featured in VIP Lounge)
The Martha Stewart Experience serves as the official event entry and features a tented entrance with a “Celebrating with Martha” theme showcasing Martha-designed products.
We cannot wait to meet her although Martha Stewart is no stranger to Los Angeles. She put Quelaguetza Mexican Restaurant on the map when she featured them but once on her TV Show. These days her shows are strictly focused on teaching, her passion, formatted to be collected into entire courses. We learn from every lesson and we love her for it (Ina Garten and Lydia Bastianich are about the only other teachers).
But wait, there is so much more to Martha, the other “Leo” culinary legend along with Julia Child. We love Martha for naming , without hesitation, Millet’s “The Gleaners”her favorite artwork during an NPR interview, and for hesitating for an entire TV commercial before answering student Q and A that she wanted to be remembered most after she passed away, “as a teacher.”
Admittedly, we were baffled by Martha’s first (insanely highly anticipated!) TV Show when she offhandedly described how to set your Thanksgiving table mix and match style- ,using as an example her own 15 sets of China! But the teaching and entertaining Martha won our hearts. We laughed to watch her carry out a DIY lamp project with tools and materials costing twice the price of a new lamp or repair. We rolled our eyes at every male TV talk show host’s infantile behavior she has had to put up with over the years. We wanted Oprah to be quiet and let Martha finish those hospital corners on a sheet. We laughed with her attempting so hard not to compete with her own mom, or with the Lobel’s owner-butchers. We followed the drama and cheered during her literal trials and tribulations in a spectacular career. And, happy she is on top, we are more careful with our own cooking and food presentation.
VIP LOUNGE: In addition, during this event the #LAWFE VIP Lounge is presented byInside Access from Chase. VIP ticketholders have access featuring special wines, food, private facilities and early entry to the Grand Tasting at 12pm.
TICKETS
Tickets at //wineandfood.usatoday.com/losangeles/ticket-packages/
- Grand Tasting. $85 in advance. 1pm entry
- VIP Grand Tasting. $120 in advance. 12pm entry
- Meet Martha. $250 SOLD OUT. Featuring a private seminar with Martha and a meet & greet. Includes all benefits of VIP ticket.
*Event tickets at gate are $100 Grand Tasting; $135 VIP
BENEFICIARY
Portion of proceeds benefits Ovarian Cancer Society
SPONSORS
Martha Stewart Wine & Food Experience in Los Angeles is presented by USA TODAY. The event is sponsored by Inside Access from Chase; as well as Grocery Outlet, Grateful & Co., Thermador/ Universal Kitchen Appliance, Rums of Puerto Rico, Lifeway Foods and Barilla.
About USA TODAY NETWORK. USA TODAY NETWORK, part of Gannett Co, Inc. (NYSE: GCI), is the largest local-to-national media organization in the country, powered by our award-winning newsrooms and marketing solutions business. For more information, visit www.Gannett.com
About Martha Stewart. Martha Stewart is an Emmy Award-winning television show host, entrepreneur, bestselling author of 90 books, and America’s most trusted lifestyle expert and teacher reaching 100 million consumers monthly across media and merchandising platforms. Visit MarthaStewart.com and SequentialBrandsGroup.com
About R Entertainment. R Entertainment is an experiential marketing and business development company, producing 200 dates a year, such as the USA TODAY NETWORK Wine & Food Experience, Kentucky Derby Fillies & Lilies Party, Final Four Sponsors Ball, National Taco Tour, Super Bowl events, PGA Waste Management Phoenix Open, Arizona Diamondbacks Evening on the Diamond, The Good Life Festivals by Shea Homes, among others. R Entertainment also books concert entertainment nationwide. Visit www.R-Entertainment.com
Unrivaled Gran Hotel Hospitality & New Lunch Menu at BOA STEAKHOUSE
(Gerry Furth-Sides) A few years back, I dashed into BOA STEAKHOUSE Santa Monica for meter change during the insane lunch hour traffic. The hostess herself ran back to her own purse for the quarters, and I have been telling this story ever since. BOA STEAKHOUSE bills itself as having “unrivaled hospitality”, along with its fine steaks and award-winning wine list. I couldn’t put it better. The genuinely warm, informative service seems to be as vertical as their towering wine wall. It is European-class service in a clubby, fun atmosphere meaning the diner is made to feel like a valued guest with every choice a perfect one. And the staff all appears to be happy they are there and you are there, too.
Boa Mixology is becoming as legendary as their extensive, distinguished wine list. We tried the Fires and Smoke with El Silence Espadin Mezcal, Pineapple, Pink Peppercorn, Honey, Lime and Firewater Bitters. It is NOT for the faint of heart or palate. Pink peppercorns drive a burning spice stake stake through the smokey mezcal. A tantalizing Smoke Show with Wild turkey Longbranch Bourbon and Maple Syrup also caught our attention, representative of the drinks designed to complement the hearty food.
In addition to the long list of steak dishes for which they are reknowned, new on the BOA STEAKHOUSE menu are Indian summer appetizers. Holding on to the idea of beef are Meatballs made with American wagyu, pomodoro sauce and served with grilled ciabatta. Wagyu cattle have higher levels of intra-muscular fat or marbling but the meat texture is finer, resulting in a more intense flavor with a rich mouth feel usually associated with the a high proportion of marbled saturated fat in other American beef. The difference is that the healthier Wagyu beef has higher levels of levels of unsaturated fats.
Manager Charles Hueston’s suggestion making a meal of the Italian meatballs and delicate Chop-Chop salad with artichoke, salami, chickpea, olive, tomato, pepperonchini, toasted pine nut and aged provolone cheese is perfect.
Server Brandon brings out a Classic Caesar Salad that pairs well with the Hot Smoked Salmon with dill whipped cream to spread on grilled ciabatta.
Green Eggs & Ham with pesto deviled eggs and crispy prosciutto – makes a terrific, conversation-starter bar dish. And the last new appetizer, Lobster Tots, sits atop truffle brown butter aioli. Dotted with Lobster, the potato tater tots (hash browns) are exactly what we remembered from home.
Ah, steak is still the star. We loved the new BOA concept of a PLATE with diner’s preference of protein (chicken, Skuna Bay Salmon, 6oz. filet mignon or 7 oz. New York steak, and choice of two sides. Smashed Broccoli is our new favorite vegetable, and little is added to the broccoli, which needs nothing more!
Manager Charles Hueston poured us a deep ruby-red Pine Ridge Cab from the Napa Valley, representative of the statement-making wines that pair well with grilled beef. The dark berries and touches of cinnamon and nutmeg layer on the palate with cassis and spice, and linger afterward in a sweet, polished note.
The Dessert menu is interesting. Even the classics are given a twist. We haven’t seen Baked Alaska on the menu since the old Jean Francois Metigner days with this French classic carried over from L’Orangerie. The BOA STEAKHOUSE version features Devil’s Food instead of sponge cake, Vanilla Ice Cream instead of Neapolitan, and strawberries which are macerated. Server Brian flambeed it tableside.. well, sort of. When we asked how many people ordered the dessert, he laughed, “every time they see one being served to someone else!”
Even with a reputation for the finest quality food and service, BOA STEAKHOUSE offers a significant Happy Hour, seasonal menus and new dishes regularly.
BOA STEAKHOUSE, 101 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica, CA 90401 (310) 899-4466. For details, special events and hours, please see //www.innovativedining.com
Hippocrates Precious Tears: Chios “Mastiha” Comes to America
(Gerry Furth-Sides, Greek photos courtesy of The Chios Mastiha Growers Association). Whenever anyone, including me, thought of “mastiha” in the past, chewing gum came to mind. Its a different story these days since “Healthy” is the new mantra for food and drink these days, and whatever items can make up a cocktail is the best. Not only does ancient Mastiha fit easily into both categories, it reigns supreme.
So these days, the famous chewing gum export is also in the form, mastic distillate or mastic oil flavors a variety of products. The sap from the trees not available anywhere in the world other than from 24 villages on the the huge, magnificent island of Chios, home to shipping magnates such as the Onassis.
Kleos Mastiha liqueur cocktail calls for vodka, muddled blackberries and mint (also used as a garnish) and lemon. It is as refreshing as the island scene below. The crystal clear Kleos Mastiha liqueur has a sweet aroma even when served cold and the very slightest of hint of herbal influence.
Mastic has been harvested for at least 2,500 years since Greek Antiquity. The first mention of actual mastic ‘tears’ was by Hippocrates, who used mastic for the prevention of digestive problems, colds and as a breath freshener. It has been proven to have healing properties, such as being an antioxidant; anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial.
Mastiha is a “breath of herbal fresh air” to a number of dishes. Here is it a topping for smoked salmon. It adds a subtle flavor without adding saltiness. Here is mastiha is added to baby carrots, tofu and Tuscan Kale Salad tossed with Mastiha Oil & Lemon, quinoa, faro, currants and sunflower seeds. Mastiha Honey-glazed Baby Carrots with Coriander and poppy seeds; Grilled Tofu marinated with mastiha Adobo and served with Shitake Mushroom, Edamame, dressed in a Mastiha Honey-Chili Vinaigrette.
A refreshing appetizer perfect with cocktails is the Mastiha Liqueur-cured Salmon with Juniper & Rosemary, Lime Crema, and Baby Arugula on a brioche point.
Chios Mastiha is also perfect in desserts, such as Chocolate Pot au Creme tartlets with Chios Mastiha whipped cream and candied orange. And it is also used in the locum jellied candy.
Terroir and microclimate: The island of Chios is long and narrow, with high forested mountains in its northern section that retain moisture and temper the northerly winds. That’s why the southern, hillier part acquires a distinctive climate that is mild in the winter and very dry in the summer. The hot, arid summers in the Mastiho-horia allow the mastiha to dry and harden–the most crucial part of the harvest. On the down side, rain can wash away an entire harvest, and the trees cannot tolerate frost.
The tree ONLY grows in the southern part of the island in 24 villages known as the mastiho-horia (mastiha-producing villages), hence recognized by the EU, as a P.D.O. (Protected Designation of Origin) ingredient since 1997. For information about the association, please see://www.previous-drops.eu.
Mastiha was as valuable a commodity as diamonds so that Chios was protected regardless of who “conqueror” of Greece at any time (either the Genovese or the Turks). Systematic cultivation and organized commercialization were passed down from generation to generation from ancient greek times dating back to 450 BC to modern times. The Union of Chian Mastiha Producers (known today as Chios Gum Mastic Growers Association) was founded in 1938 as a compulsory collective ” for the purpose of protecting the mastiha of Chios.
For information about the product and recipes, please see: www.previous-drops.eu.
Alicia Maher’s Family Recipes in “Delicious El Salvador” Cook Book
Alicia Maher has been teaching classes in traditional, Salvadoran home cooking and street food for close to thirty years whenever she can. She has tried to give a research background for them whenever possible.
She is the author In her cookbook, Alicia offers 75 recipes, these dishes have been passed down from generation to generation. The book contains close to 100 photos and features each dish. Most photos were shot on location, in El Salvador.
Alicia self-published both the English Delicious El Salvador (Pacific Apicius, 2nd edition, November 15, 2017, $29.99), and the Spanish edition, El Salvador, Sabores Deliciosos (Pacific Apicius, November 15, 2017, $29.99). She often talks about the trials and tribulations about mailing books, including how they get lost in big batches at times.
El Salvador food is all about soups with lots of vegetables, meats stews with vegetables and herbs, fruits drinks, seafood, desserts like mango in almíbar, according to Alicia. These ingredients are available at many major supermarkets and local Latin markets. Alicia tries to convey her own techniques to make the dishes easy to make. She starts most with onions, tomato and peppers – making it the perfect book for anyone who likes this combination.
Popular dishes are included in the book, from pupusas, quesadilla, Christmas turkey and torrejas, to everyday meat stews, chicken soups, shrimps with garlic, rice, re-fried beans, pork chops with onions, green beans and eggs, summer squash in a cream sauce with vanilla custard for dessert
Alicia Maher was born and raised in Santa Ana, El Salvador. Her book was a semi-finalist, category translation, in the 2018 Gourmand awards. Alicia’s mission is to preserve, rescue and document authentic Salvadoran recipes for her children, future generations, and food lovers everywhere.
Alicia has also gotten her recipes on CNN Latino, MundoFox, Esmitv, The Latin Kitchen, Los Angeles Magazine, La Opinion, EFE, El Tiempo Latino, El Salvador.com, Cook’s Cook Magazine, Amy Riolo Blog, Spicy Peach Blog, and much more. Alicia was El Salvador’s Culinary Ambassador by UCLA Magazine, Revista Ella from El Salvador, and Sercano TV. She has taught Salvadoran cooking classes at Whole Foods, Surfas Culinary District, Latin Food Fest, and on live TV in Viva La Mañana, a morning show in El Salvador. Alicia was a contributor to The Immigrant Cookbook: Recipes That Make America Great, from Interlink Publishing. She lives in Los Angeles with her husband Joseph and three sons. Her husband’s family owned Victor Benes bakeries in Gelsons, and his father was a famous whiskey spokesperson.
The Brunch Table is Now Set at Cleo Restaurant!
(Gerry Furth-Sides) Brunch is now being served at Cleo on Third Street. And Chef Danny Elmaleh’s menu boasts all the energy, fun and chic design of the popular walking street. There is always something going on. The morning we went, light and refreshing Ketel One Botanicals were being featured. And so was crystal clear-Badoit water.
Inventive, masterful Japanese-Moroccan star Chef Danny Elmaleh makes brilliant menus appear effortless. Just as impressive, the kitchen prepares them as intended on a consistent basis. Managers Theodora and Barbie round out the terrific staff. This is why CLEO remains our choice for any meal.
Cleo suggests beginning brunch with the trio of mezze, small plates, to share at table. The dishes reflect Chef Elmaleh’s middle eastern and Asian culinary background, with his touch of bold flavors and using a refined technique. They include Hummus, Babaganoush and Lebaneh, served with a piping hot Laffa Taboon bread right out of a special separate oven.
Texture makes the difference in Chef Elmaleh’s masabacha version of hummus. Considered to the most authentic, the masabacha version is chunkier and more rustic than the usual creamier hummus one. The kitchen leaves the chickpeas whole instead of grinding them to a paste. Cumin, lemon juice, parsley, minced garlic and tahini are then mixed into the paste.
Described as having the taste and texture somewhere between Indian naan and pita bread, but with a better flavor and chew, Laffa Taboon bread or Lafah/Lafa is a Middle Eastern flatbread baked in a grilling oven called a Taboon.
The Watermelon and Feta Salad small plate is also filled with layers of flavor and substance. Mint, feta cheese and both shaved cucumber and radishes add a festive element and holiday colors.
Main dishes reflect the international background of the chef. Red Shakshouka features spiced tomato sauce, longanisa sausage made in house, egg, feta and cilantro. The “spiced” tomato sauce remains refined and filled with flavor and heat, rather than tasting assaultive and peppery.
Chef Elmaleh’s spin on Eggs Benedict is elevating. The whimsical Avocado Toast Benedict is right in synch with the current madness for avocado toast. Smoked Salmon Benedict substitutes smoked salmon for Canadian bacon with the same saltiness. A crispy potato cake adds texture (along with a little surprise) and replaces the usual English Muffin. Spinach and hollandaise completes the dish.
The food so refined and the desserts so week-end holiday extraordinary that we we had no problem enjoying both. And they are international. A “donut tree” reminiscent of a pastry ball croquenbouche features donuts more like Austro-Hungarian “fonk” than the the French cream puff version. They are light, airy and delicious. Madelaines fulfill the French component. A moist, light molten chocolate cake is decidedly American. Jellied candies, pate de fruit, and blackberries cover an angelic panna cota are joined by a mini chocolate cake with soft dark chocolate center. The middle eastern Turkish baklava is the least satisfying. While not excessively sweet it is also so dense it is hard.
The chef’s food is as startling as ever for being fulfilling without being too filling. And a walk down Third Street is just outside.
(www.sbe.com) Cleo Third Street, 8384 W. 3rd Street, Los Angeles, CA 90048, (323) 579-1600. Cleo, L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, 424-888-7818.
East-West Fusian at Four Hands Dinners, Nov 5 and 6 at Landmark Mandarin Oriental
The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong’s Michelin-starred Culinary Director, Chef Richard Ekkebus is delighted to announce that Amber’s next exclusive Four Hands Dinners on the 5th and 6th November 2018 feature a fabulous collaboration with Italian chef Luca Fantin of Il Ristorante — Luca Fantin, situated in the Bvlgari Ginza Tower, Tokyo.
The hotel restaurant is already famous for its cutting-edge food and service, and is as much of an attraction to locals as it is to visitors. In the hospitality world, this is rare.
The inspired two-night culinary exchange builds upon a recent prestigious collaborative dinner in Tokyo. Once again it will transcend cultural borders with two acclaimed international chefs cooking in Asian capitals using French and Italian techniques, and remarkable Japanese ingredients.
“Expect something completely adventurous, unexpected and a truly unique dining experience to savour in every way,” says Richard Ekkebus. “Our menu will feature both classic dishes and new creations that reflect elements of our individual personalities – a case of when two is definitely better than one.”
Friends of Amber’s memorable dinners have previously featured a veritable who’s who of culinary masters including Chilean chef Rodolfo Guzmán, Singapore’s André Chiang, legendary Spanish master Ferran Adrià, Australian chef Dan Hunter, celebrated Japanese chef Kenichiro Yamauchi and Mingoo Kang from Korea.
Chef Fantin, who was nominated ‘Best Italian Chef in The World’ by Italian culinary guide Identità Golose in 2014, has been based in Tokyo since 2009, when he was 29. He interprets his own sophisticated contemporary version of traditional Italian cuisine by elaborating top-quality Japanese local raw materials in season with refined techniques and creativity. Fantin is inspired by the four seasons and his culinary philosophy is research, consistency, passion and love.
Amber is ranked 7 on the 2018 list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. Il Ristorante ranks at number 28 and is one of only 11 listed restaurants from Japan and the only one led by a non-Japanese chef.
At this exclusive two-night only collaborative dinner (HKD2,688 per person), the two chefs will join forces to create a glorious gastronomic experience with their delectable and inspirational dishes that include favourites such as savoury passion fruit macaron with oyster, greek yoghurt and wakame dust, cold spaghetti monograno felicetti with sea urchin, and white alba truffles shaved over a celeriac ‘millefeuille’, granny smith gel celeriac mousseline and emulsion.
A 8-glass wine pairing tasting menu(HKD1,588 per person) is also available, with cocktails and wines chosen to match each course by our head sommelier John Chan.
Advance booking is required. For information and reservations, please contact Amber at phone: +852 2132 0066 or email: lmhkg-amber@mohg.com
Note: prices are subject to 10% service charge and no corkage will be permitted at this very special culinary event.