Gerry Furth-Sides

Best Bites A-Z at Westside LA’s “Little India” Gem

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Insiders know that the city’s finest Indian eateries, A-Z,  can be found in a one-mile”block of stars” celebrated for authentic regional Indian food (Venice Boulevard at Motor in Culver City).   An entire weekend of eating can be had from “A” –Annapurna (vegetarian) and their new sibling restaurant,  Abhiruchi Grill (meat added to a vegetarian menu) – to “Z” for Zafran Pot, with Mayura snacks in between.

Stores and ethnic institutions featuring Indian sweets and products down the street to the east, with Middle Eastern markets within walking distance to burn off the calories in between meals and take-home goods.

Abhiruchi Grill, the newest “kid on the block” rightfully boasts “Authentic Indian Restaurant” on their sign, rare in LA. Their name very accurately translates into “delicious.”  Try the Chicken 65, lamb lollipops, the hot and cold coffee drinks roasted in a very special and traditional way, and all the curries.

Abhiruchigrill, //www.abhiruchigrill.com, 10823 Venice Blvd,  Los Angeles, CA 90034, (310) 204-2569.  Contact.abhiruchigrill@gmail.com

 

Annapurna Indian Vegetarian has such good South Indian food that Indian families regularly travel from far away to eat their favorites.   Over 20 Specialty Dosas, served with Chutney and Sambar, are as long as your arm, and as much fun to eat as they look.

 Dosas

Other authentic specialties just as whimsical in appearance and also healthy, include Vada, a savory cousin of the American doughnut, and Puri, clouds of fried unleavened Indian bread that looks like a southern American popover.  Dahi Vada, deep-fried lentil donuts, laced with cilantro, dipped in a special yogurt sauce are served with yogurt and spices, a telltale clue it will not be sweet.

Vada

Puri puffs out on a tray like a mountain “Annapurna”. On the tray with it are Channa masala, a spicy garbanzo bean stew filled with Serrano chilies usually topped with pomegranate molasses, and the Indochinese Paneer Chili, spiked with chilies in a sauce, onion and green pepper.

Puri

Annapurna Cuisine,  10200 Venice Blvd. Culver City, CA 90232, (310) 204-5500.  Business Hours: Monday – Thursday : 11:30am – 3:00pm, 5:30pm – 10:00pm.  Friday – Sunday : 11:30am – 10:00pm. annapurnacuisine@gmail.com

Mayura Restaurant kitchen specializes in dishes from the owners’ home area of Kerala on the southeastern border of the country right on the Arabian Sea.   A 1500-year-old spice trade that evolved the region into one of the most cosmopolitan in India earned it the name, “Spice Coast”. Renowned for Malabar Black Pepper, cinnamon, cardamom and curry leaves, the cuisine also incorporates a lot of bananas and coconuts which grow in the area.    Nayar Hindus, Muslims, Syrian Christians and even an ancient community of Jews all have an influence on the culture.

We are just partial to their snacks, straight from the kitchen. The cooks even hold cooking classes to share their secrets.

Mayura Restaurant, 10406 Venice Blvd (at Motor), Culver City, 310-559-9644, (//www.mayurala.com/

Modest little  Zafran Pot now the two-year-old “baby on the block of stars” (corner of Venice Boulevard at Motor) celebrated for authentic regional Indian food.   Owner-Chef Sneh Lata Gumidelli’s exceptional Hyderabad-style, savory biranyi ranks right up there with the best.

biryani

The name itself, Zafran (saffron) refers to the spice that colors the rice in the famous dish. Nestled on the table next to its Salan gravy and Raita sauce companions,  this biryani looks as if it is calming staring at the diners about to enjoy it.

The basmati rice soaks overnight and then is cooked on a very low heat.  Instead of the classic dough used to seal the pot, Chef Sneh uses aluminum foil.  In addition to organic, locally sourced ingredients, the technique is key here.  Pumpkin seeds replace the more usual peanuts in Chef Sneh’s version, for example. After passing the rigorous Halal requirements, meats are marinated overnight in house-made masala.   Unusual, enticing appetizers and dessert complete each authentic meal.

Specialties are family recipes and popular dishes from different regions of India are on the menu.   Catering company owner-Chef Sneh knows what pleases diners.   She personally oversees every dish with one other cook in the kitchen.

Dishes to try:  The Hyderabad Dum Specialty Plate that features.  Organic Chicken, Organic Lamb and Vegetable, all marinated in spices, yogurt, zafran (saffron).

Available only on weekends, the Lamb Dum Biryani draws sell-out crowds at Zafran Pot is fully booked on the weekends.

 Vegetable and Egg Puffs. The decadent Vada Pav ($4.95) (shown below), filling deep-fried mashed potato fritters inside pillowy mini-burger buns.   Add the snap of red onion, tartness of lime and the bit of cilantro with it, and it also defines umami.

 Egg Puffs
Vada Pav

The specialty of the house rarely found in LA restaurants is the  Khubani Ka Meetha with Ice Cream. Dried Apricots, soaked overnight to remove any trace of seeds, are boiled in sugar syrup served with ice cream ($4.95)

Khubani Ka Meetha

Zafran Pot, 310-838-2130, 10408 Venice Blvd. Culver City, CA 90232.
//www.zafranpot.com/
//www.facebook.com/zafranpot

Sun Basket’s New Orange Chipotle – Glazed Pork with Coleslaw and Roasted Sweet Potato

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pork chops

Orange-glazed pork chops with apple coleslaw and sweet potatoes

(Gerry Furth-Sides) The Latin-inspired  Orange-chipotle Pork Chops with lime- and cilantro-brightened coleslaw and crisped sweet potato “moons” is a favorite  Sun Basket meal with a 91% “reorder” nod from customers.  Bright flavors, textured and balanced, this meal is Gluten-Free, Dairy-Free, Soy-Free, Paleo.  We already loved the Sun Basket Steak Au Poivre.

 pork chops

Our version of the Orange-glazed pork chops with apple coleslaw and sweet potatoes

Sun Basket

The carefully packed, all recyclable, Sun Basket ingredients and recipe booklet.

In the Sun Basket bag (one bag serves 1-3)

  • 1 sweet potato
  • ½ teaspoon sweet smoked paprika
  • 1 lime
  • 1 apple (such as Granny Smith)
  • 3 scallions
  • 3 or 4 sprigs fresh cilantro
  • 2 teaspoons honey
  • 2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar
  • ¼ pound shredded green cabbage (such as Savoy)
  • 3 ounces shredded carrots (see Market Watch note)
  • 2 boneless pork loin chops (about 6 ounces each)
  • Sun Basket orange glaze (orange juice – honey – coconut aminos – coconut vinegar – sesame oil – fresh garlic – fresh ginger – chipotle powder)
Ingredients

Ingredients for Sun Basket Chipotle Glaze Pork Chops

Our notes:  We found that there was about 3-4 times the amount of slaw as potatoes per portion.  We braised the remainder of the slaw and loved it as just as much served warm in cold weather.

Also, in terms of color, pork and coleslaw are such neutral base colored ingredients that we would use red apples or onions for color in the slaw.  We would sliver the apple or julienne the apple.

Instructions for 2-servings (4-serving modifications are always noted in red).  Wash produce before use

To Roast the sweet potato

1: Heat the oven to 400°F.

  • Scrub or peel the sweet potato. Trim the ends and cut the potato in half lengthwise, then crosswise into ¼-inch-thick half-moons.
  • On a sheet pan (2 sheet pans), drizzle the sweet potato with 1 to 2 teaspoons oil; season generously with salt, pepper, and the sweet smoked paprika and toss to coat. Spread in an even layer and roast, turning once halfway through, until tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
    While the sweet potato roasts, prepare the rest of the meal.

2: Coleslaw

  • Juice the lime.
  • Peel the apple, if desired. Cut the apple into quarters lengthwise and cut away the core. Cut the fruit into ¼-inch-thick slices.
  • Trim the root ends from the scallions; thinly slice the scallions on the diagonal.
  • Coarsely chop the cilantro.

In a medium bowl, stir together the honey, apple cider vinegar, 1 tablespoon (2 TBL) lime juice, and 2 tablespoons (¼ cup) oil. Add the apple, scallions, cilantro, cabbage, and carrots and toss to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

3: Prep and cook the pork

Pat the pork dry with a paper towel; season with salt and pepper.

In a large frying pan over medium-high heat, warm 1 to 2 tablespoons oil until hot but not smoking. Working in batches if needed, add the pork and cook, turning once, until lightly browned on both sides but not yet cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Brush with the orange glaze, turn the pork over, and brush with more glaze. Continue to cook, turning frequently and occasionally brushing with more glaze, until the pork is browned but still faintly pink within, 6 to 8 minutes. Add more oil between batches if needed. Transfer to a plate.

4- To serve, transfer the pork, coleslaw, and sweet potato to individual plates.

 Tips:  A brush or back of a spoon can be used to glaze the pork.   Keep the pork in the same place as you turn it in the pan to avoid spreading the glaze so it does not burn on the pan bottom.

Kids can toss the sweet potato with oil and seasoning, and the coleslaw plus juice the lime.

 

New TOSAI SUSHI with A Surprising Pedigree

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Tonny Soesanto, long time fish supplier to the finest restaurants and markets beams inside his new TOSAI.

(Gerry Furth-Sides) New TOSAI SUSHI in the posh food court of Westfield Century City is guaranteed to the quality of the finest Asian market fish and seafood.  That’s because  Tonny Soesanto created it.  Tonny started first as a restaurateur 30 years ago a few miles away in Beverly Hills with Edoko.  He eventually founded Kikka, a sushi supplier to markets and institutions in the greater Los Angeles Area and 30 states nationwide. Now Tonny is back just a few miles away.

 

Tosai's

Tosai’s Master Chef Ando Yoshiharu

TOSAI only uses sustainable ingredients that are free of antibiotics and growth hormones, and none of our products contain MSG or artificial colors/flavors.  Vegan and vegetarian options and products are made with gluten-free ingredients.

 Orchid Roll

The vegetarian Orchid Roll with black rice

“Tosai” refers to a fresh fish, one technically under one year old. “Nisai” means a two-year-old fish.

Master Chef Ando Yoshiharu presents a classic vision out of history as he cuts down a whole, huge, fresh tuna and turns it into gorgeous sashimi at the official store opening in Century City.

Toro

Toro! A thing of lush beauty.

The chefs who work at TOSAI have perfected the art of making sushi since 1986.  Explains, Tonny, “the quality of our sushi begins with the delicate taste of perfectly blended sushi rice. Not too tart or too sweet, combined with the highest attainable quality of fish and you have a time-honored recipe for success.”

sushi

Master Chef Ando Yoshiharu was born in Beppu, Japan, a city famous for its spa resort on the southern Japanese island of Kyushu.  At the age of 15, he started his culinary career working at a traditional French restaurant in Japan. After learning French techniques, Ando then started working at a fish market where he learned how to select the finest quality fish.   The chef mastered the art of cutting, cleaning and ultimately preparing the highest quality sushi. In 1984, Ando moved to the United States to continue his work as a master fish cutter and sushi chef.

TOSAI Master Chef Ando at work

TOSAI's

TOSAI’s winter flower made of sashimi

TOSAI's

TOSAI’s morning treat for photographers at the Westfield Century City party

The “glam” food court with soaring ceilings over the indoor seating and umbrellas over the outdoor tables with a view is as luxe as any resort.  The sophisticated, elegant sushi platters below are named in honor of different famous cities in Japan and would earn a place of honor at any party.

TOSAI catering menu of sushi platters

Manager Tanya Palomo was born and raised in the friendly and sophisticated food town of Portland, Oregon, where she found her passion for the fast-paced restaurant industry 22 years ago, working the line in a restaurant.

Asian Market

TOSAI Grab-and-Go sushi at Westfield Century City Mall as fine as any Asian Market

TOSAI SUSHI (www.tosaisushi.com) starts with the highest quality, fresh sushi as you would get in an Asian market, all in a case for convenience (see Tonny’s role in KIKKA SUSHI).  Additional creative menu items have been added to this new location.

TOSAI SUSHI

There is an entire section of vegan, vegetarian, and gluten-free options.  It is disappointing that primarily the vegetarian rolls are made with black rice (along with water, distilled vinegar, rice vinegar and evaporated cane juice).

 black rice

 

The Crunchy Albacore Special Roll  ($12.50) is one of the more contemporary rolls.  The Tempura topping makes it almost a dessert.

 

And almost all the items packed for easy grab & go.  The quiet spaciousness of TOSAI makes you feel as if you are really near the Oceanside instead of a bustling mall.

The company is committed to sustainability and responsible environmental stewardship (they are certified by The Monterey Bay Aquarium Food Watch).

Tonny, Daniel, and Grant are also committed to having true diversity in their staff and contractors. Iwan Surdasono and Daniel Yuwono

Tonny’s partners are Iwan Surdasono and Daniel Yuwono, shown above.

Tonny is also the founder of KIKKA SUSHI, which has been a sushi supplier since 1986 in over 20 states with a diverse clientele ranging from supermarkets, businesses, and restaurants to universities and hospitals.

CEO Soesanto is very hands-on, participating in the evaluation, expansion, planning, and day-to-day operations of Kikka. Originally specializing only in sushi, the visionary Soesanto has expanded the Kikka line to include popular Asian dishes,  such as Japanese tempura, Chinese noodle bowls, Korean bibimbap, along with  Indonesian and Vietnamese dishes.

Tonny received a Bachelor’s Degree in Chemical Engineering at UC Berkeley, where he published a paper on fructose, sucrose, and glucose, and perfected his “bear instincts” – catching, cooking and eating fish. He then earned his Masters in Chemical Engineering from the California Institute of Technology.

Montrésor, Studio City’s New French Bistro with a Royal Pedigree

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Restaurant

The sunny front room of Montrésor Restaurant in Studio City (photo courtesy of Acuna-Hansen)

(Gerry Furth-Sides, photo courtesy of Acuna-Hansen)  Montrésor, Studio City’s newest French bistro,  is designed with the grace and style of Paris in the 1920’s.  Executive Chef Paul Shoemaker has created a new menu of traditional French cuisine with farm-to-table ingredients.   Even the art nouveau signage is exciting and inviting.

Studio City restaurant

Montrésor announces possible the third of an exciting Studio City restaurant trifecta by Lisa Long (photo courtesy of Acuna-Hansen).

Montrésor is the brainchild of accomplished actress, producer and long-time restaurateur, Lisa Long, and designer and partner, Ann Booth Luly. Restaurateur Long is already responsible for two of the area’s most popular mainstays that earned Studio City a reputation for fine dining,  La Loggia Ristorante, and Barsac Brasserie.   She also partnered with Top Chef fan favorite Chef Fabio Viviani on Firenze Osteria, an impossibly big and lush space that somehow works because of great food and warm, professional service.  

 


Shoemaker is now excited to get back to cooking traditional French cuisine incorporating innovative techniques he learned along the way. “I like to take a classic dish and have a little fun, give it some flair and get playful. I want to create something different, that stands out amongst the classics,” says Shoemaker.

The idea is to bring out the best of local Farmers’ Markets ingredients “that Los Angelenos are used to eating.”   “It is simple and classic French cuisine prepared with modern technique and seasonal ingredients, accompanied by an eclectic wine bar,” explains Shoemaker.

Bib Lettuce

Bib Lettuce Salad with avocado (photo courtesy of Acuna-Hansen)

Guests can start their evening with delicate but hearty appetizers inching a crisp Bib Lettuce Salad with avocado, fines herbs and a tarragon cream dressing (above),  French Onion Soup with house-made baguette croutons, Mussels in a garlic white wine sauce, or fresh the Crab Cake served with remoulade and frisée.   Short Rib with a potato purée 10 oz. Bone-in Tenderloin Steak with potato pavé and tomato confit highlight the entrees…

Dessert, of course, include the classic, French Profiteroles,  served here with an almond toffee brittle, vanilla ice cream and topped with chocolate sauce, and a delicate Crème Brulée.

 ice cream

Montrésor’s French flaky, crisp tart with ice cream (photo courtesy of Acuna-Hansen)

Chef Shoemaker’s French credentials are impeccable.  The chef gained recognition at Alan Ducasse and French Laundry before making his way to the kitchens of Water Grill and Providence with Chef Michael Cimarusti, the wildly popular Firefly in Studio City, and his own restaurant Savory in Malibu. His most noteworthy accomplishment was at the internationally famous, Joe Pytka’s Bastide, where he earned himself a Michelin star in less than six months.

The Montrésor wine list is as eclectic as the famous wine regions of France (400 growers of Bordeaux in one terroir!) and curated to pair with Chef Shoemaker’s menu.  Each wine is offered by the glass. There are also wines from California for those who prefer a fruitier spirit.   A selection of American beers includes the Allagash, Anderson Valley, Old Stock and Old Rasputin.

 Restaurant's

Montrésor Restaurant’s table setting that harks back to 1920’s Paris (photo courtesy of Acuna-Hansen)

Montrésor translates to “my treasure” in English. Tucked away on Ventura Boulevard, Montrésor was designed with a whimsical, inviting 1920’s French theme in mind, full of vintage design and repurposed decor.  For example, a vintage refurbished headboard serves as one of the restaurant’s benches while the 8-foot reclaimed wooden doors are recycled from a winery in Orange County. Even the mannequin bodice lamp was recycled and crafted by Luly herself.

Montéssor restaurant

The lively, lush interior of the new Montéssor restaurant (photo courtesy of Acuna-Hansen)

“From the beginning, the vision for the design of the restaurant was to inspire a lively, yet romantic setting, leaving guests feeling reminiscent of the late 1800’s in the Loire Valley of France where the village of Montrésor is located,” explains Luly.

Long met her now-business partner, Ann Booth Luly, 30 years ago on the set of a Pointer Sister video and the two hit it off right away. Luly is a multi-faceted talent who taught herself how to sew at the young age of 6 and her career path took off from designing clothes for her family to the successful  Studio City boutique called “Hoity Toity” and finally to restaurant design.

Montrésor design partners, Lisa Long and Ann Booth Luly,  (photo courtesy of Acuna-Hansen)

Montrésor, 11266 Ventura Boulevard, Studio City, CA 91604, T: 818.760.7081.

Montrésor is open Tuesday through Sunday from 5:30 pm to 10:30 pm. For more information aboutMontrésor, please visit www.Montresor.LA or call Montrésor directly.

Sun Basket’s New Indian-inspired Steak au Poivre and Me

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s Sun Basket deliveries are usually on Tuesday and Wednesday

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Innovative, inventive Justine Kelly, co-founder and Executive Chef and the team at Sun Basket www.sunbasket.com keeps key ingredients, such as of crushed peppercorns, in the classic French Steak Au Poivre, defined a dish defined “prepared or served with a generous amount of usually coarsely ground black pepper”.    But she replaces the traditional, heavy ingredients of Cognac and cream that explode the calorie count.  Instead, this recipe calls for lighter but still rich coconut milk, ghee, and chilies used in Indian kitchens.  Sherry vinegar is used in place of brandy.  Mushroom powder lends a bit of a French touch.

Add the stellar quality ingredients to this the novel combination and it is, in the words of my favorite Tv chef, Maneet Chauhan, “absolutely delicious.”  Truth be told, pulling out the ingredients from the bag made me feel a little bit like I was on “Chopped”  – except here a recipe is provided.

Steak Au Poivre

“Steak Au Poivre” done healthy SUN BASKET star still features crushed peppercorn coated beef

Sun Basket is a meal delivery service created by Cofounder Kelly that prides itself on making healthy cooking easy, right in tune with many other “new kids on the block.”  //localfoodeater.com/new-pangea-nutrition-brings-mediterranean-diet-to-usa/

Sun Basket differentiates itself not only with its high-quality ingredients but by adding organic and non-GMO ingredients in a choice of Paleo, Vegetarian, Seafood, Poultry and Family meal kits.  Sun Basket’s App also allows a subscriber to view all recipes, skip weeks, and manage an account.

The other two ethnic-influenced recipes for this week included Orange chipotle-glazed pork with coleslaw and roasted sweet potato and Moroccan lamb merguez patties with warm carrot salad, whimsically done up in julienne form “carrot salad” instead of the expected shredded one.

We start with a  brown “grocery bag” and a package of beef top sirloin steak, carefully packed in an insulated box complete with recycling instructions.

Sun Basket’s Solid insulation with recyclable bags

The “little brown bag” of SUN BASKET groceries

Inside this little black bag was the best top sirloin steak I have ever eaten. I remain incredulous that this was Beef “Top Sirloin” Steak.  My mom’s family of 15 were major meat brokers in Europe and major players here in the states too, so I know the best.

Sun Basket sourced beef top sirloin with the texture almost of filet and the taste of ribeye

Relatively elusive, perishable and prepared ingredients are provided in the amount for the recipe, such as coconut milk and spices.  The powdered mushrooms are a very clever “French” touch, replacing perishable mushrooms which are not easily transported.  I would substitute shallots, used in the classic French version of Steak Au Poivre, for the onion simply because of texture; I understand that they were probably chosen to balance out the lighter milk for heavy cream.  Melissa’s Produce easy to peel and slice pearl onions would work too.

The ingredients laid out on a cutting board

Below is the two-page section of the beautiful instruction pamphlet.  Fun tips for what kids can join in with are included.    A Market Watch section informs the cook of any changes in prep when items are seasonal and replaced with a similar ingredient, such as turnips or sweet potatoes replacing the parsnips. A list of nutrition per serving is also included.  I realized I’ve been counting half the calories for a similar meal till now!

If I would change anything it would be to have the recipes on a small card in standard recipe format instead of prepping as you cook.  This unwieldy and unnecessarily daunting method seems to be de riguerer in-home delivery meal services.

Note: It did take twice as long to roast the novel parsnips and Brussels sprouts as indicated for a perfectly tender inside, crisped outside.

Steak Au Poivre

The finished product of Steak Au Poivre

Another tip:  crusting the steaks on only one side allows the beef to sear better while building up flavor for the pan sauce. The other half of the peppercorns go into the sauce to retain the spice flavor.

The following is a recipe for the classic Steak Au Poivre recipe on Epicurious.com.  I would eat the Sun Basket version anytime! Or any recipe by Sun Basket I have read so far!

Image result for steak au poivre recipe

Ingredients are 4 (3/4- to 1-inch-thick) boneless beef top loin (strip) steaks (8 to 10 oz each); kosher salt and the peppercorns, chopped shallots, 1/2 a stick of butter, 1/2 a cup of Cognac or other brandy and 3/4 cup heavy cream.

The Asian Fruit with a New American Address: Yuzu

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Yuzu

Atlantic Salmon Filet- Pan Seared, Yuzu  Confit sauce from Shiloh Steakhouse

 

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Today’s sexiest fruit, the darling of chefs,” is how our favorite food writer of fruit, UC Riverside pomologist, David Karp, labeled it — five years ago. He described the yuzu as” a rare, expensive Japanese citrus of mysterious provenance.”

Officially the (Citrus Junos (Rutaceae)) the yuzu’s tart and grapefruity flavor has overtones of Mandarin orange.  As he presented a variety of the oddest shapes of the yuzu to the Central Library to the Southern California Culinary Historians,  Karp extolled, “The Yuzu has anntense citrus perfume that sings through the room. Smells like every citrus you’ve ever smelled combined into one.”

Yuzu

Yuzu (photo courtesy David Karp)

A hybrid of a primitive citrus and sour mandarin orange, the yuzu originated in China, where it grows wild in central China and Tibet.  Once it was introduced to Japan and Korean during the Tang Dynasty, they took it over.

Rarely eaten as a fruit because of its sour flavor, Asian chefs season with yuzu almost like western cuisines use lemon’s citrusy essence.  The rind is most commonly used to flavor various dishes such as vegetables, fish or noodles while the fruit itself is most often found in bottled juice or dry, powdered yuzu.  Yuzu trees were unofficially introduced into California before 1888, grown in home gardens by Japanese-American aficionados.  It took another century to bring the fruit to market publicly.

One reason was to “protect” American growers from diseases prevalent in Asian groves.  Fresh yuzu still cannot legally be imported into the United States.  So about 15 years ago, enterprising farmers started raising yuzu for commercial purposes,  some perhaps illicitly, to fulfill a demand from chefs.   Because of its scarcity, the yuzu fetches high prices, $8 to $20 a pound wholesale, and up to twice that at retail.  Wholesalers tend to be secretive about sources.

So it’s not surprising that few diners have seen this puckered little pseudo golf ball up close, or even heard of it. Still, more and more are experiencing its distinctive flavor and aroma, a complex blend of lime, lemon, and grapefruit.

But never fear, affordable local Asian restaurants also use it creatively yuzu zest and juices in a variety of cocktails, savory and sweet dishes. Still, fresh and processed yuzu is the rage in restaurant kitchens for cocktails, savory dishes, and sweets. “Yuzu is less sharp and more subtle than lemon, allowing its fruitiness to come through,” explained Wylie Dufresne, the chef and an owner of WD-50.

As Slow Fish Restaurant’s sought-after Japanese sushi chef  laughed,” it may be new to America, but we’ve been playing with it for 3000 years.”

The yuzu (you-zoo)’s citrusy flavor is more subtle than lemon with an astonishingly intense floral citrus fragrance and nose hint of Mandarin orange. Trying to identify the aroma drove me crazy in the Signature Slow Fish appetizer. The chef drizzled a ponzu, rich with pungent yuzu, over carved cucumber slices each center filled with a mosaic of asparagus, avocado, salmon, and crab.

Typically restaurants use yuzu to accompany fish but yuzu also stars as dessert. At Spago in Beverly Hills, Pastry Chef Sherry Yard used to make yuzu meringue tarts as well as pineapple-yuzu sorbet.  Shiloh Steakhouse serves them in lush merengue tarts.

Yuzu

Yuzu merengue tarts at Shiloh Steakhouse

Yuzu replaces lemon or even orange in dishes and pastries to add a unique, citrusy flavor, and make even the most standard dish into a gourmet one. For one season Häagen-Daz offered a Yuzu Citrus & Cream flavor.  It had the tart and smooth contrast of a creamsicle on a stick.

“Yuzu has an amazing floral citrus fragrance — you can smell it from across the room,” said Gregory Brainin, chef de cuisine at the toney Jean Georges in New York, who served 30 different yuzu recipes as long as a decade ago. For one dish, the captain suffuses bay scallops with a mist of yuzu juice sprayed with an atomizer he carries to each table.

There are now recipes galore for yazu, both savory and sweet dishes. Here are a the top ten from Yummly.com

//www.yummly.com/recipes?noUserSettings=true&showRegistrationModal=true&q=yuzu&start=0&maxTotalTimeInSeconds=2700&1518124311002

Rarely eaten as a fruit because it so sour, Korean and Japanese chefs use zest as a garnish for a savory custard dessert with its zest.   Asian chefs also use its juice as a seasoning the way western chefs use lemon.  At SLOWFISH in Huntington Beach, Chef An adds Yuzu to the citrus-based sauce ponzu and in their shoju (Asian vodka) cocktails.

Fresh yuzu is available intermittently in season at Japanese markets. Other times look for yuzu juice, salted and unsalted; frozen fruit; dried peel; and kosho, a paste of yuzu rind macerated with hot peppers and salt.

Trader Joe’s Canadian growers know that thinly sliced, sweetened Yuzu sweetening makes for a terrific, thick marmalade, laced with the chopped rind.   Instead of the usual Asian chef use of sugar and honey; Trader Joe’s “Citron Spread” label reads healthy grape juice, lemon peel, natural fruit pectin.    A tablespoon of this marmalade stirred into a cup of hot water makes Yuja cha, a healthy herbal tea known the cure the common cold.

 

For a citrusy and spicy hot sauce, Yuzu is perfect.  Trader Joe’s carries it.

 

Not convinced to try eating it? There are alternatives. Ripe golden yuzu symbolizes winter in Japan, where the custom on the winter solstice is to bathe with floating whole aromatic fruits wrapped in cheesecloth. Or play a traditional Asian oboe- it’s made from yuzu wood.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slow Fish  www.slowfish.com; Zu Robata, www.zurobata.com; Izayoi www.izayoi.com

 

New East-West Inspired Valentine Day Cocktails

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Valentine’s Day inspiration for new cocktails goes international this year.   The Raymond 1886, lives up to the famous bar’s reputation for drinks so good you almost forget to eat.  Peter Lloyd Jones’  features hibiscus, cava, and lemon in his red Cupid’s Arrow. 

Cupid's Arrow Cocktail

The Cupid’s Arrow Cocktail at The Raymond 1886 (photo courtesy Jerica Coert)

The Sazarac Lover cocktail, also at the Raymond 1886  and created by Peter Lloyd Jones, is sophisticated and subtle. It features Ritten House Rye, Peychaud Bitters, Absinthe Rise, sugar cube, and a lemon peel canopy.

Sazarac cocktail

The Sazarac cocktail at the Raymond 1886 (photo courtesy Jerica Coert)

The Raymond 1886 will be open for Valentine’s Day for Dinner, Wednesday, February 14th, 2018, from 5:30 pm to 10:00 pm, with 1886 open until 12:00 Midnight 1250 South Fair Oaks Avenue, Pasadena, CA 91105; 626.441.3136; www.TheRaymond.com

Read about our experiences at the historic gem of a landmark restaurant, The Raymond 1886 at //localfoodeater.com/pasadena-raymond-makes-american-regional-history/

For other cocktails you might love as we did at The Raymond 1886, please see,

The Raymond 1886’s New Cocktail Menu Honors International Inventors, Innovators

To get an idea of the restaurant’s “family” staff, read the “Cinderella Story” Bartender at the Raymond 1886 by Jose Martinez at //localfoodeater.com/cinderella-story-bartender-at-raymond-1886-bar/

Red as the classic color of the day highlights the Angel Face Cocktail created by Shaun Summers at The FLATS.  The Angel Face cocktail shows off a cranberry- infused apple brandy and gin blend, apricot liquor and finally, Nocino, the drink garnished with a housemade fruit roll-up.   Nocino is a sweet Italian-style spirit infused with green walnuts and spices, is traditionally sipped as a digestif on its own after a meal.  With the current rise in popularity of Italian liqueurs, more bartenders are mixing it into modern concoctions

 Angel Face cocktail

The Angel Face cocktail at The Flats ( Photo courtesy of Acuna-Hansen)

The FLATS will be open for Valentine’s Day, Wednesday, February 14th, 2018 from 11:00 am to 12:00 Midnight; Happy Hour is from 4:00 pm to 7:00 pm and Late Night Happy Hour is 11:00 pm to 12:00 Midnight; 8400 Wilshire Boulevard, Beverly Hills, CA 90211; 310.909.7549;   www.TheFLATSRestaurant.com

 

Created by Marco Carrasco, the  Shot At Love at CHAYA Downtown has a far-eastern flair by using yuzu, a Japanese fruit.  The contents include Deep Eddy Vodka, Yuzu Sake, muddled strawberries, lemon juice, simple syrup and egg white, garnished with a Campari heart and lime twist.

 

Shot At Love

“Shot At Love” Cocktail at Chaya Downtown Restaurant  ( Photo courtesy of Jerica Coert)

 CHAYA Downtown will be open for Valentine’s Day for Dinner and includes a special $65 prix fixe menu,  from 5:00 pm to 10:00 pm; 525 South Flower Street, Los Angeles, CA 90071; 213.236.9577; www.TheChaya.com

 

Erica Venning created Love Potion at CHAYA Venice. The Love Potion cocktail is a sophisticated, clear version of a classic comprised of vodka, lemon, simple syrup, egg white, and pomegranate elixir.

Love Potion

The “Love Potion” cocktail at Chaya Venice (Photo courtesy of Moretti Photo)

CHAYA Venice will be open for Valentine’s Day for Dinner  from 5:30 pm to 10:00 pm; 110 Navy Street, Venice, CA 90291; 310.396.1179;www.TheChaya.com

 

New French-inspired Valentine Day Menus by Famous Chefs

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New, creative French-inspired St.Valentine’s Day ethnic celebrations range from renowned Chef Kimmy Tang’s California-inspired French-Vietnamese and Chef Alain Cohen’s refined French-Tunisian to Chef Olivier Rouselle’s international-inspired Parisian French menu. After all, isn’t French the “language of love?”

Kimmy Tang

Chef Kimmy Tang

Personal French themes run through all of these celebratory meals across the city.  Chef-owner Kimmy Tang’s Vietnamese Bistro Mon Cheri is in Pasadena.  The Pico-Robertson neighborhood houses Chef-owner Alain Cohen’s  Sephardic French-Tunisian Got Kosher? (aka Harissa Restaurant as of March 1, 2018).  Executive Chef Olivier Rouselle has headed the kitchen for years at On Sunset Restaurant at the tucked away treasure, Luxe Sunset Hotel in Bel-Air.

The talented, irrepressible Kimmy Tang invites her guests to her intimate  Valentine’s Day at cozy, bright Bistro Mon Cheri.  The sophisticated menu reflects her cosmopolitan background.  Born in Vietnam and a world traveler, the talented and exuberant chef has even started in a cooking show in Rumania.  The Bistro Mon Cheri name honors one of Kimmy’s favorite, well known French restaurants in Vietnam.  For more information please see: //la.eater.com/2017/5/11/15613104/bistro-mon-cheri-pasadena-kimmy-tang-opening

The light, refreshing dishes feature her usual California flair to them.  The price is also a refined $35 per person.

Chef Kimmy’s  California-inspired Vietnamese menu includes Starters:  Crab Wontons served with Avocado Aioli; Beef Sausage wrapped with Mozzarella Cheese, and Fish Dumpling served with Spicy Soy.   Spicy Shrimp Corn Chowder or a Shrimp, Carrot, Cucumber Noodles on Crispy Rice are the choices for the Soup or Salad course.   The Main Courses include, Baked De-Boned Gem Hen served with Gourmet Rice; Grilled Argentinian Shrimp served with Cilantro Garlic Quinoa, or Lightly Fried Pork Steak served with Coconut Rice.   “Dessert of course!” here includes either a Coconut with Strawberry or a Coffee Panna Cotta.

Bistro Mon Cheri is open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., then 5 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. from Monday to Thursday. Hours extend to 9:30 p.m. on Friday to Saturday. Closed Sundays.

Bistro Mon Cheri, 950 E. Colorado Blvd. #204, Pasadena 91106
626-787-1323 //bistromoncheri.com/

Candlelight and white tablecloths transform the front room for the annual I ❤ HARISSA celebration that is purposely planned on February 14 as a unique evening of French-Tunisian at Got Kosher? Cafe restaurant.  Chef-owner Alain Cohen offers a 5-course prix fixe dinner and a complimentary glass of wine from a brand new list of the finest kosher beers and wine.  Got Kosher? Cafe officially becomes HARISSA RESTAURANT on March 1, 2018.

Signature favorites will still highlight HARISSA RESTAURANT’s new expanded California-inspired menu reflecting the vibrant “sun-cuisine” heritage of Cohen. Born in Tunisia and raised in Paris, France, he worked in his father’s kosher Tunisian restaurant, Les Ailes (The Wings) from the age of nine.  Success came early to the innovator when, his refined French-Tunisian menu turned the restaurant into an overnight sensation, later becoming a Paris landmark.  Chef Cohen is the creative force behind the famous pretzel challah.  He is now becoming as well known for his gourmet Sephardic cuisine “with heart” (and just enough heat), and that just happens to be kosher.

For information on Chef Alain Cohen, please see our post on this congenial innovator known as the “Tunisian epicurean”, here with daughter Sophy at the restaurant.

Who is Alain Cohen and Why he offers Kosher – with no apologies

 

The Valentine’s Day menu at On Sunset Restaurant created by Luxe Hotels Executive Chef, Olivier Rousselle is an extravagant, French-inspired  5-course meal offered for $68 per person.  World-class chef Rousselle, whose culinary experience spans three continents, is known for his exquisite menus that showcase seasonal California fare.

Personable Chef Olivier, originally from Paris, has family ties that are rooted in the Bordeaux region. His formal culinary studies began at the age of 16 in Paris with an externship in Gascony under the tutorship of famed chefs Bernard Ramouneda and Andre Daguin. Upon graduation, he was immersed in the fast-paced environment of a traditional French Brasserie in Paris.

dining room

The elegant dining room at the Luxe Sunset Hotel (photo courtesy of the Luxe Sunset Hotel)

 

A toast of Luxe Champagne Cocktail

Champagne

Champagne at the LUXE SUNSET HOTEL (photo courtesy of Luxe Sunset Hotel)

Amuse-Bouche

_______________________________

Choice of one in each course:

Maine Lobster Salad with Orange Vinaigrette                                                     Boston Lettuce, Blood Orange Segments, Peruvian Purple Potatoes,                                Avocado and Chives

salad

Peruvian purple potatoes provide a unique change of color in the Maine Lobster Salad at On Sunset Restaurant (photo courtesy of Luxe Hotel)

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Seared Maine Scallop                                                                                                Cauliflower Purée, Sage-Pine Nuts Beurre Blanc

Sauteed Foie Gras with Brioche                                                                            Persimmon Chutney, Petite Walnut Salad

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Filet Mignon Tournedos                                                                                                 Truffled potato Puree, Haricot vert, Port reduction                            

Seared Ahi Tuna                                                                                                                  Ginger-Carrot Mashed, Sesame Spinach, Saké Jus

 

Sake just adds a subtle Japanese kick to the Seared Ahi Tuna at ON SUNSET  (photo courtesy of Luxe Hotel)

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Valhrona Chocolate Fudge Cake                                                                                   Vanilla Bean Ice Cream and Cocoa Sauce

Raspberry Panna Cotta                                                                                                          Red Coulis and Lavender Tuile

 Coffee or Artisan Tea

The room with a view from the Luxe Sunset Hotel (photo courtesy of the Luxe Sunset Hotel)

How to Find your Favorite Ethnic Bites Anywhere

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Are you as daring an ethnic food dinner at home as you are when traveling?  According to a recent TopDeck Travel survey, travelers are more and more motivated notably to experience the local cuisine while traveling but to actually travel to seek out the best dish of its kind.

Local food

An Indian picnic with friends and family sharing regional dishes

The same rules sent to us apply at home, even experimenting in your own kitchen at home.  And we have found that the closer to home cooking ethnic can be, the better it tastes.

Here are some of our favorite finds from 2017 with using Topdeck Travel Tips to Experience Authentic Food Culture Around the World (or At Home).

Follow the locals:  Wander away from the touristy areas and find the restaurants where locals eat. If a spot is flooded with locals enjoying each other’s company, it’s likely that this restaurant offers authentic cuisine.

Practice food customs: Respect is key when visiting a new place. Whenever you travel somewhere new, take the time to learn about local meal etiquette. This will make you a more respectful guest and a less invasive tourist.

Ask for advice: Locals and well-seasoned travelers are the best sources of advice when it comes to finding exceptional food. Ask about the best places to eat and the best dishes to try — your tastebud guide will likely not disappoint.

Attend festivals and events: Food festivals offer an exciting array of local cuisine, and most of the time, you’ll be surrounded by cultural music and crafts as well. These types of events are great to wander with friends or simply get lost in the crowd.

Taste mindful: Once you actually bite into a new dish, slow down and engage all of your senses. Take the time to enjoy the flavors, as it might be a completely new tasting experience. This moment might be among the most memorable of your trip.

Learn what you like: Even the most adventurous foodies don’t like every single food they try. Remember that just because something is popular does not mean that you will like it. Being honest and critical is how you develop a palette.

 

Follow the locals: Explore places where the locals eat instead of touristy areas.  An Asian restaurant filled with Asians is a good indication of its value.
Visitors to Greece in the “old days” used to be invited to weddings and other family occasions by strangers.  Last Summer we trailed along to a party at ARO-LATIN after a food event and found ourselves in the middle of a family graduation-birthday party, eating what the family was eating!

Toasts with a special Havana Club Anejo tequila!

We had all the dishes the family ordered for their special dinner!
And after the meal, even though there was no rug to roll up, the family started line dancing and invited us to join!  A priceless, lifetime memory experience!  

 

Practice food customs:  Respect is key when visiting a new place.  Take the time to learn about local meal etiquette and listen.

This holiday season was invited to an Oaxacan New Year’s Eve feast.  After hesitating because it was in a somewhat dangerous part of town, we went anyway and had the perfect introduction to 2018.  We also were also treated to the extraordinary Mezcal (below).

dessert

Our beautiful hostess prepares a fruit and yogurt dessert

Try a little of everything! Rice, pasta, chicken, pork, and mole.  Everything tastes so different when cooked at home.

My favorite turned out to be pasta, which I rarely eat, with roasted grasshoppers!

Everything is more tasty in a group!

Pasta

Pasta with fried grasshoppers with flavor and a unique crunch! 

Ask for advice: Locals and well-seasoned travelers are often more reliable sources of for finding exceptional food.  And they usually love to share their “finds.”

We discovered a fisherman who owns Fisherman’s Daughter Seafood at a local farmer’s market.  He had just returned from a fishing outing on the Bering Sea (!) and very excited about sharing his catch with us!  He was a wealth of information on wild, fresh and varieties of salmon.

 

Attend festivals and events: Food festivals offer a choice of new and varied ethnic dishes, often in a leisurely atmosphere with cultural music and art and where chefs are happy to chat.


We also invited to a rare experience at a picnic where friends and family shared their timeworn, most popular recipes.
Taste mindful: Once you actually bite into a new dish, slow down and engage all of your senses. Take the time to enjoy the flavors because it might be a completely new tasting experience. This moment might be among the most memorable of all.

Cooking Indian regional dishes for friends and family, even better tasting outdoors.

I add:  Don’t be afraid to ask questions.  I learned the most this year from hearing answers to questions asked by people I thought were experts.

Learn what you like:  Even the most adventurous foodies don’t like every single food they try. Just because something is popular does not mean that you will like it. Being candid and discerning is how you develop a palette.

At the New Year’s Eve dinner, we were offered authentic worm Mezcal La Reserva del Viejo Herradero.  It was extraordinary, brewed with 100% Agave Espadín, in strict accordance with a traditional recipe of Oaxaca.  It is then packed under strict control in the State of Mexico.  

 The wild notes of the Agave Espadín are balanced with the smoked flavor of the traditional production process that incorporates a light caramel that makes it smooth even though it is 40% alcohol by volume.

We learned that the very proper way it to drink it “straight” accompanied by a slice of sour orange seasoned with the worm salt in a little bag that comes with the mezcal. 

That little bag on the side of the bottle contains, the authentic maguey worm and a bag of jute with worm salt.  It’s more classic than the new trendy American TAJÍN, grains of confetti-colored dried lime with world-class chilies and sea salt.

 

 

 

 

How “King of the Yees” Explores Chinese Culinary Lore

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Chinese Fortune Cookies, oranges and “the Best of the Cheap Stuff” alcohol play a prominent part in the production of Lauren Yee’s  “King of the Yees”.   Our heroine must produce them in order to rescue her father.  The play is a lively reminder of how Asian cultures are rich with symbolism.

“King of the Yees”  is directed by Joshua Kahan Brody and produced in association with Goodman Theatre.  The play continues its run in other cities as a lively work in progress.

We saw a performance at the Center Theatre Group’s Kirk Douglas Theatre where the entire theatre was the stage met with great audience approval.

The extraordinarily lively, elastic cast also seemed to thoroughly enjoy every minute of the play, with each member adroitly played multiple parts.  The case in alphabetical order included Rammel Chan, Francis Jue, Angela Lin, Stephenie Soohyun Park and Daniel Smith.

For nearly 20 years, playwright Lauren Yee’s ambitious father, Larry, has been a driving force in the 150 all-male Yee Family Association.  But when her father goes missing at a meeting, Lauren plunges into the surreal, circular “rabbit hole” of San Francisco’s Chinatown  to rescue him in “King of the Yees” 

Linguist Noam Chomsky fittingly tells us, the Chinese style of language is circular, with thoughts running in a spiral fashion.  The speaker getting to the point in the middle of the shell.  It’s similar to the old-fashioned circular hopscotch game made of boxes.  Every time you made it to the middle without stepping on a line, you claimed a box the other players then had to jump over.

King of the Yees also moves Lauren in a spiral having to jump over boxes marked for others. The name and the meaning of family ancestry are at the core of her own Chinese puzzle.  Here are the details in the author’s own words.

//www.onstage.goodmantheatre.org/2017/03/20/meet-the-playwright-a-conversation-with-lauren-yee/

There was a slight tug at my heart when Ms. Yee was reading off a list of things “San Francisco” pertaining to this– including Waverly Place – the street that the Amy Tan character was named after in The Joy Luck Club.

Chinatown in the Lauren’s  ’70’s was  “the most densely populated urban area west of Manhattan, with the oldest and poorest residents who only spoke Chinese. Close to 15,000 residents lived in 20 square blocks, the population density seven times the San Francisco average.  By 2000 it had grown to over 100,000.

During those times tong means a Chinese organization “hall” or “gathering place, really secret societies of sworn brotherhoods often with affiliations to Chinese crime gangs.   Current tongs are productive associations that provide community services.  They can be traced back to the Kuomintang in China, forced into secrecy once the Communists took power.

The set, which comes alive in different ways throughout the production is truly remarkable, including looking at it up close.

 

 

What are the meanings of the symbols in the play?  The orange is a prayer or wishes for good fortune. Oranges are used in temple offerings and the harvest festival because they symbolize life and a new beginning. The Chinese are known to love fruits, especially big and beautiful, and fresh.

Sugared oranges are a wish for a sweet year and are eaten on the second day of the New Year because an Emperor once distributed oranges to his officials on this day. Thus oranges on this occasion translate into a wish for officialdom when eaten on this day.

Oranges also become offers of good wishes when they accompany Chinese New Year gifts and appear as party table decoration.  Leaf-on proves its freshness and fond wishes.

A bride is given two oranges by her new in-laws, to peel and share with her husband on their wedding day. They symbolize a family wish for the couple to share a full and happy life.

The popular fortune cookie, have come to be an expected American dessert in Chinese restaurants.  The crisp and not very sweet tiny tuille includes sesame seed oil, which lends it an “Asian taste” .  A small piece of paper with a “fortune” on it is tucked inside, usually with a witty aphorism or prophecy, plus a list of lucky numbers.  Whether urban legend or true, some numbers have been reported to have become actual winning ones.

The exact origin of fortune cookies is unclear though it was definitely not in China.  Most likely they originated from cookies made by Japanese immigrants to the United States around the turn of the 20th century as part of their tea ceremony (minus the lucky numbers!) The theories about its origin were so controversial that in 1983, there was even a mock trial held in San Francisco’s pseudo-legal Court of Historical Review to determine the origins of the fortune cookie!

 

The mixologist happily explains the “Best of the Cheap Stuff” Cocktail

When it comes to the “best of the cheap stuff, ” honored in a reception cocktail, the Chinese know no rival.  They are known to be concerned with quality and cheap price and drive a hard bargain.  Amy Tan described this so beautifully in Joy Luck Club, where “quality” ingredients were the requirements for a good life in America.

Now the studies have proven this true.  First, it was determined that for Chinese shoppers find pleasure in shopping research and shopping,    In a recent survey, 68 percent of Chinese respondents answered they were “happy or overjoyed” with their shopping experiences,  in the three key phases of the shopping experience—“being inspired, having fun, and learning something”—compared to 48 percent of American respondents and 41 percent of British respondents.

For more information, please see: //www.centertheatregroup.org/about/press-room/press-releases-and-photos/archive/2017/july/king-of-the-yees-opens-at-the-kirk-douglas-theatre/