Gerry Furth-Sides

“Spoonful of Comfort” is Top Pick for National Soup Month

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Just in time for National Soup month a “Spoonful of Comfort” is delivered to our door.  Imagine opening your gate and finding this thoughtfully designed, sturdily wrapped package at your feet. Inside are carefully cooked and packaged homemade soup, rolls, cookies and a beautiful ladle. www.spoonfulofcomfort.com/

National Soup Month fittingly arrives with January’s colder weather.  The commemorative might be relatively new but the dish is ancient. Soup has been traced  as far back as 6000 B.C. to Greece. Hippopotamus was the first known meat used for soups.   Greeks sold soup in their market places and streets – perhaps the first known “fast food!”

These days, soup can be purchased by the packet, bowl, can, cup, etc.   One innovation is home delivery, which tastes like a gift of a talented chef in your kitchen.  It’s perfect as a practical “get well” sentiment, as the founders originally intended, or as a pre-house warming  gift or “care package” to a college students.

The cookies inside are as bold and big as the graphics on the box. Along with cookies in the basic package of carefully packed boxes  are:

  • 64-oz. jar of homemade-style soup (4-6 generous servings)
  • 1/2 dozen back rolls (just chewy and dense enough, dotted with rosemary)
  • 1/2 dozen cookies
  • A ladle “to serve up the smiles”
  • Personalized note card
  • Colorful, custom packaging that’s a treat in itself (editor’s note: we agree!)

We “got into these cookies” right away, “for research.”  The oatmeal raisin were over-sized and with the tiny bit gooey-as-in-raw dough  made every bite perfection.  We could not figure out what made the chocolate chip so good until we looked at the ingredients and saw molasses and wheat flour.

“Spoonful of Comfort” adds a fresh twist upon this old-fashioned favorite, proven scientifically to be healing, with seasoned, roasted chicken, fresh thyme and parsley, and “oodles of noodles.”

The hearty chicken soup tastes as though it was made from scratch.  It ranks well above what we’ve tasted in highly touted delis.

Oh my goodness!  When an LA TIMES writer asked what made the soup so delicious we saw:  heavy whipping cream, butternut and hubbard squash, pumpkin puree, brown sugar and maple syrup.  All you need is a pumpkin ice cream and this would make a wonderful sundae topping.

Chicken Noodle Soup with Rosemary-dotted Rolls and Oatmeal Cookies.  Photo courtesy of Spoonful of Comfort)

“Spoonful of Comfort” is beautifully seasoned but not at all salty.  There is absolutely no salty aftertaste and no thirst after eating it… a true test.

The big chunks of succulent white-meat chicken turn a bowl of soup into a total meal.  The bottle serves 4-6 generously ($10 for the complete meal).    So after our first servings, we added a couple of vegetables to the soup for a bit variety —  and enjoyed it thoroughly each time.  Here you see it with peas.

We were able to take the butternut squash from box to freezer because of the sophisticated packing, which includes dry ice. The soup is prepared and sent out for delivery the same day.

(Butternut Squash Soup (photo courtesy of Spoonful of Comfort)

Butternut Squash Soup features holiday spices, cream and high grade maple syrup.  Refined, Gingersnaps with a crunch . A thumbprint cookie flat top surface  makes them even more appealing.

(Tomato Basil Soup photo courtesy of Spoonful of Comfort)

We shared the Tomato Basil Soup with discriminating (to say the least) food writers.  It drew the same compliments from their family:  “Delicious!  We enjoyed it from first to last drop.”  The secret: basil pesto, rich asiago and parmesan cheeses.

(Photo courtesy of Spoonful of Comfort)

Soup historically was actually just a broth before they began adding legumes, such as lentil and beans, then other ingredients, to make it more interesting.   The broth was initially used to pour over or as a dip for bread.  The bread was called sop, which turned into the word we have all become familiar with, “soup”.

National Soup month is observed in  the US.   It’s a natural “international” since most countries and ethnicities all have their favorite/famous bowl of soup.  Warm soup is a sure-fire remedy for people feeling  “under the weather” or just to take the chill off a cold day.  Cold soup, like a spiced-up Mexican gazpacho or a cool Russian beet  comes to mind does the opposite.  Soup is really is a dish that knows no season.

Editor’s note: We saw the Spoonful of Comfort owners on Shark Tank.  They “did not get a deal.”  Why? We want to know.

 

 

 

Film: My Bakery In Brooklyn

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Directed By Gustavo Ron and written by Francisco Zeegers and Ron, My Bakery in Brooklyn ( 100 minutes) has all the ambitions of an Umbrellas of Cherbourg.

Vivien and Chloe, two cousins living in Brooklyn, have been inseparable ever since they were children.  Their aunt (Linda Lavin) is the owner of a not particularly profitable quaint Boulangerie in a Brooklyn neighborhood changing from elderly residents to young hipsters.  This is reflected in the two cousins.  Vivian is a proponent of the classic style of baking and Chloe is more insistent on updating the shop.

Auntie dies suddenly, just as Vivien is about to embark on her dream trip to Europe.  She stays behind  to help run the shop with Chloe, a chef’s assistant for a popular daytime cooking show, who feels they should put a modern spin on things.

To complete the picture, the bank reveals that the Boulangerie is in danger of being foreclosed – the news delivered by a  handsome young man  attracted to Vivien, the two decide to preserve their family’s legacy.

 

The opening scene shows a food fight, going back through flashback to  they split the shop in half with a blank line in the middle and each runs her business as she sees fit. Things heat up as they’re forced to fight over every customer who walks in the door.

The pieces are there and in a manner of deus ex machina Lillian and Chloe  learn to subdue their differences and work together as a team in order to save the bakery and live happily ever after.

 

CAST

Aimee Teegarden

Krysta Rodríguez

Ward Horton

Blanca Suárez

Linda Lavin

 

TRAILER: //youtu.be/r7hAWF4achI

Download: //vimeo.com/195719419

Kedi: Top Film on Istanbul’s Cat Dining

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Animals and dining at a restaurant.   KEDI makes you wonder why cats everywhere don’t hop up to join guest at an outdoor table of a restaurant or make friends in the street as you pass them in the street.  It is such a natural feeling, and so much in contrast to the main talk about the feline population in the US which centers on over-population and little else.

My first introduction to easy restaurant dining was during a trip to Paris years ago.  An elegant young couple near me at a beautiful white tablecloth restaurant took leave of their table after they finished a late supper.  They smiled at me, pulled out motorcycle helmets from under the table, and before I could blink, also pulled up a little basket with a dog instead of it.

By the way, that’s Gamziz above, either taking in the cafe scene or waiting to  be fed.   Kedi also shows one of his human friends feeding him at home.

KEDi is at once a film spiritual and indivudal about the hundreds of years, prowling the streets and making themselves irresistible to so many people, many of whom befriend, care and even pamper them. The trailer says it all: //www.kedifilm.com. It is a film that, like a cat, arrives as a whisper and makes its presence known as a lion.

The connection to ethnic food in this engaging cat meditation of sorts, is what Istanbul residents feed the thousands of stray cats and what the cats manage to come up with themselves, whether mice or bagging food from outdoor markets. In a port city this includes plenty of fish from friends, and friends who insist on home cooking (chicken foremost) for their transient charges. One cat literally knocks on the glass window pane of a shop to announce he is there for a meal of cheese and meats.  One kind man feeds entire groups across the city with bags of fish.

KEDI (kitty) Ceyda Torun’s debut documentary film about the cats of Istanbul opens on a series of sequences that take your breath away even on a small computer screen.

“There’s a mystery, an unpredictability about both cats and Istanbul,” says Torun, “each of which is deeply intertwined for thousands of years.

She mentions that a zoologist at Istanbul University showed Torun a 3,500-year-old cat skeleton uncovered during construction of the Marmaray’s underwater rail system. “It was dug up right on the coast of the Bosphorus Strait and has a healed bone on its leg,” Torun says, “ in the way that it did if it was wrapped up by a human.”

Istanbul’s long history as a port city connects directly to its street-cat capital status. Felines from all over the world found their way to the city on the cargo boats where they were kept to take care of mice, were left on their own during port calls and stayed.

When the Ottomans built Istanbul’s first sewer systems, cats proved useful at fending off rodents on land, so much so that houses were constructed with cat doors, says Torun, a task of caring that has grown and now appears almost daunting in the explosive building boom.

“The more every bit of green space and soil in the city is flattened and paved over, the more inhospitable it becomes to cats,” Torun says. “And you’ve really started seeing a lot more people putting out food and water for street animals over the last five to ten years as summers have become hotter. There’s a bigger push to see that they’re OK.”

KEDI is exactly the right length (79 minutes) , engaging and making you come away wondering what will happen to the cats we met.

Critics have said that “there is no great insight here,” no connection to the future of these cats.  However, like a book made into a splendid film, its engaging qualities prod the viewer into more research.  And in fact, a national conference has just taken place to determine how to care for the cats.

 

 

 

Top 2017 Ethnic Trends are Rediscovered Classics

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Expect trends starting in 2016 to gain momentum and be recognized nationally in 2017.   The theme: rediscovered classics that are created, marketed and branded magnificently for success. 

They are: (1) anything from Japan, especially if it is sake or matcha; (2) artisanal food from Spain,   (3) multi-unit location restaurants doing authentic ethnic food (making pizza and BBQ “discoveries” all over again); (4) Classic restaurants  keep up with the times, including superb new cocktails and esoteric wines (5) whole fish;  (5.5) Pan-American cuisine,  (6) ethnic street snacks turned into surprisingly sophisticated, exquisite fusion desserts; (7) Indian street snacks that distinguish themselves regionally;  (8) delivery of dinner ingredients instead of dinners;  (9) Authentic food festivals (10) Hyped trendy places that turn out to be real films about food and  (11) films about food  (12) chefs writing memoirs instead of cookbooks are on the rise, though not necessarily with a higher level of quality.

1. Japan – think classic matcha tea and historic sake- have been revived and distributed on a world scale, along with new versions, such as at classic-turned-contemporary American  Shuhari in Venice and sweets at The Daisy nearby.   Kura’s Korean chef Daniel shows his reverence for the Japanese tradition of sushi by training extensively experience in Japan and at fine dining restaurants in America such as Spago.  His version of Flying Fish is shown above.  The exquisite Kompai! film party at the Japanese Consul’s home was a highlight of the year and a lifetime experience.

“Matcha” Tops 2016 Ethnic-Centered Food Trends

Q Sushi Brings Japanese Endomae Style to Los Angeles

//localfoodeater.com/korean-father-son-chefs-perfect-japanese-kura/

KAMPAI! FOR THE LOVE OF SAKE Film

 

2. Spain Reigns on the Plain and all over the world.  Artisanal food products from Spain (chorizo along with wine, sweet fruit treats), long beloved in Spain and Europe, are making their way to the mainstream in America.

“Kisses from Spain”: Best New Artisan Products

Best of the Best Spanish Artisanal Meat at La Española Meats

3. Chain, Chain Chain — Linking authentic Ethnic.  Multi-unit locations do it up right. (Holy Cow) BBQAlways popular individual BBQ which never really was not popular, is as a multi-unit operation with Holy Cow with an even more more authentic air about it, 800 degrees pizza, whose chefs were personally trained by Peppe Miele.  Folks t acted as if pizza and burgers have just been introduced in America for the first time ever.

Local Chef Peppe Miele Inspires “Best of” 800 Degree Pizzas

Holy Cow! The Best of the Best American Regional BBQ

4. The classics endure and take a lead.  Long-standing restaurants be they decades old or centuries old, such as Pasadena’s Celestino and The Raymond 1886 maintain a delicate balance are being rediscovered for maintaining a balance updating the classics.

 

Celestino Pasadena Upholds Royal Family Pedigree

//localfoodeater.com/pasadena-raymond-place-lunch/Classic (Raymond and Celestino)

Best Historic: The Raymond Restaurant and 1886 Bar in Pasadena

5. Classic whole fish, historically considered a good luck dish for Asian holidays.  Visually stunning and natural,  the fish just breaks apart and the major bone is left on the table, making it easy to eat.  The idea is becoming more popular as the perception of restaurant chefs that customers don’t want to look at the eyes and tail is changing.  We’re happy.

All Eyes on the Best Whole Mediterranean Fish in LA

//localfoodeater.com/8662-2/

An add-on trend is making healthy, sustainable fish accessible (see Spain products for this, too).

Tonnino Tuna: The Wild Underbelly is the Best

New SAFE CATCH Tuna Processes Mercury-Free Fish

Aro Latin, which serves up two of the best whole fish dishes also is a trend we wish more of with Pan American cuisine.

//localfoodeater.com/holy-mole-and-more-heavenly-dishes-to-try-at-aro-latin/

 

 

9. Updated Authentic Ethnic desserts:  Here is Kura’s version of the popular Korean Teriyaki, red bean paste and custard-filled batter mold fish cookies.  The chef added to it Black Sesame ice cream with black sesame crumble, making it the perfect Korean, Japanese and American dessert .

Chef Brian Koopers Persimmon Torte on the dessert menu at the new The Corner in the Water Garden, Santa Monica, features six layers of genoise with shipped cream, studded with persimmons and apricots – shades of the finest Austro-Hungarian Empire!

7. Authentic Indian snacks and street food are distinguishing themselves from rather mundane copycat menus, including cooking classes featuring the most popular ones.

Famous Indian Snack Recipes from Award-Winning Mayura Restaurant

 

8. Authentic Ethnic Food Festivals 

Brit Week introduced us to Lesley Nicol, who played Mrs. Patmore, the endearing, most popular chef character in Downtown Abbey, and who turned out to be even more charming and witty if possible.

BRIT WEEK 2016 Features Former Royal Chef

BRIT WEEK 2016: Top English Foods to Try

New Food Festival downtown every week: Smorgasbord, the concept vendors in booths and in trucks around the parameters of the old produce market at 7th and Alameda, which came to town from Brooklyn, where attendance tops 30,000.   Plenty of free parking in a nearby structure with easy access, picnic tables in the middle of friendly diners and non-food vendors.  The original Bledsoe’s from Compton and Ugly Drum BBQ (no brick and mortar yet) are worth the trip.  Goa Taco from New York offers a delicious fusion of pork belly tacos on Indian Parantha bread made on site.

 

 

 

9. Hyped places that turn out to be authentic:  Lodge Bread in Culver City.   We have discovered places that have been hyped in the media as the “next new thing” can be astonishingly worthy of “hype” – in this case lines out the door existed among neighborhood folks in the know, and now as a destination place.

10. Romantic comedy films about food are getting better and the documentaries are superb.  We toast to Kampai! For the Love of Sake, which takes viewers on the most exclusive and historic family breweries in the bitter cold  winter season.

KAMPAI! FOR THE LOVE OF SAKE Film

Kedi: Top Film on Istanbul’s Cat Dining

More chef memoirs instead of cookbooks, not memorable ones yet.

Best of the Best Spanish Artisanal Meat at La Española Meats

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) The day we visited La Española Meats in Harbor City one sunshiny fall day, a special envoy delegation from Spain was visiting with a tasting of newly imported artisanal products.  This hints at the importance of the small boutique store that makes the Doña Juana brand of chorizo right in the adjoining building.  In fact it is the boutique and the lovely side garden dining area that accent the factory itself.  It transported us to a leisurely afternoon in Spain. //www.donajuana.com

We food writers were enchanted with the products and the hospitality.  I even found myself choosing Barcelona as the city  I most want to eat a meal on in a recent quiz because of it!  And this was over Paris and New Orleans!

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Founder-owner Juana Gimeno Farone founded La Española because the rich sausages and hams from Spain were not allowed to be imported in the 70’s.   So Faraone began making her own, packaged under the Doña Juana brand.  The artisanal products being introduced into America today include meats, cheese, wines and sweets but still exclude pork products from pigs raised in Spain.

img_4214 It is very different from Mexican chorizo because it is more like hard salami — and so can be served as you would meat on any charcuterie board without cooking.  Each salami is slightly different in terms of spices and texture.

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Paella is served every Saturday to guests in the outside area – a cordial gesture and one that enhanced every food lover’s attention to the company.  Because the product was not allowed to be imported even in the early company days, Farone did her best to acquaint food lovers not only with the chorizo but how to prepare and use it. A live flamenco performance makes the last Saturday of the month even more special.

img_4270Outside in the magical garden dining area, founder-owner Juana Gimeno Farone, and her daughter, Mari Carmen introduce a table of tapas highlighting the products.  In Spain the small, perfect salty bites are served with complementary wines and beers.

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The paella arrived from the back room in a copper pan, burnished from use. Bomba rice, cooked beautifully, has the golden glow of saffron.  It is dotted with several kinds of chorizo, chunks of pork, chicken, mussels, shrimp, piquillo peppers and squid.   Mixed spiced olives, freshly sliced, artisan chorizo, dried fava beans cooked with tiny clams and croquettes add to the mix.

Faraone’s son-in-law, amiable Iranian (!)  Alex Motamedi, operates the business with his wife.  He is passionate and detailed about explaining the Spanish meats, cheeses, wines, olive oils and assorted conservas of vegetables and fish on floor-to-ceiling shelves in the compact little store adjacent to the plant.

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As the the holiday shipment of special artisan products were being placed on the shelves,  Alex was adamant we try a sample of whatever caught our eye.  We purchased boxes of as many of them as we could, including the Almond-shaped confection above with a kind of marzipan paste filling inside the papery-thin shell.

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The red wine from Altos Ibericos was only available at La Espanola Meats this season.  It had a rich, fruity flavor and we purchased several bottles for gifts from the shipment.

The GPS had a “field day” with the address of La Español Meats. It directed us exit the 110 freeway  (off the 405 toward San Pedro) at an early exit on a complicated route to the factory, including a field tour around the block from the street behind it.  So much simpler to exit at Sepulveda right in Torrance, take a quick left to Vermont, straight and a right on Lomita.  And you are there – in Spain –  in a few minutes!

(//www.donajuana.com) ,La Española Meats, 25020 Doble Ave., Harbor City, (310) 539-0455.  Hours: Mon-Fri, 8:30 am-5:30 pm; Saturday from 9AM to 5 PM.  A short sandwich menu is available everyday, and the ladies will add product you purchase in the store, like special cheeses.  Please call ahead to make Paella Saturday reservations.  The House paella is $9 plus tax.

 

 

 

 

Ooh La La: “Ladurée” French Macaron Arrives in LA and Beverly Hills

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) At the turn of this century, New York and Los Angeles bakers seized upon this confection that had earlier took Paris by storm.   This year it has arrived quietly in Los Angeles at The Grove (Original Farmers Market)in Los Angeles, complete  with more dramatically long lines  and more recently a tea room with cafe opened on Beverly Drive in Beverly Hills in a more quiet manner – and easy-access free parking.

It marks one more time that Parisian tea room history is ties to the history of the Ladurée family.  It all began in 1862, when Louis Ernest Ladurée, a miller from the southwest of France, founded a bakery in Paris at 16 rue Royale.

In 1871, while Baron Haussmann was giving Paris “a new face”, a fire in the bakery opened the opportunity to transform it into a pastry shop.  The decoration of the pastry shop was entrusted to Jules Cheret, a famous turn-of-the-century painter and poster artist.

At The Grove (Original Farmers Market) in Los Angeles as  the famed macaron merchant opens its first store on the West Coast. The sprawling boutique and outdoor terrace serves more than pastries.  Along with its macaron gems, pastries and chocolates, the store also features a restaurant and tea salon. Highlights of the menu include the Champs-Elysées Club, a vegetarian version of the classic sandwich; Ladurée omelette with mushrooms, ham, cheese, tomatoes and herbs; and a tofu burger.

Macaron flavors range from the classic (vanilla, pistachio, caramel with salted) to the seasonal (chestnut, coconut, violet), and you can order them from a gleaming white marble bar in the front of the shop.

Ladurée, 189 The Grove Dr., L.A., 323.900.8080. thegrovela.com

Today the French macaron arrives in a variety of classic and contemporary flavors all with bold, vibrant colors: Apricot and Raspberry, each filled with jam; Lemon with lemon crème filling; sophisticated bittersweet chocolate; Coffee; Vanilla and Pistachio, which, as combined with the almond paste flavor, is reminiscent of Baskin-Robbins Pistachio Almond.

If you haven’t the will to brave the crowds at The Grove (said to be bigger than the ones at Disneyland, here are a few other suggestions.

La Provence has an assortment of delicacies, crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside.  SherryYard’s macarons have been perfect as specials from her days at Spago to her own new bakery at Helm’s Bakery.  (Sherry is second from left below)2014-10-19 19.21.21 For the richest raspberry macaroons, Bottega Louie (www.bottegalouie.com). 

For the most delicate lavender macaroons. (www.thelittledoor.com).

For the finest coffee version, La Provence Café is the place to go.  A selection the finest French pastries and cakes are also in the alluring counter cases, which you pass waiting on line to order.  Indoor banquette and outdoor seating are options to enjoy the pastries (and fresh salads and sandwiches) right on site, served by an efficient friendly staff.
(www.laprovencecafe.com).

These days even Trader Joe has gotten into the act and their variety assortment is very, very good even though their seasonal pumpkin flavor falls flat. (www.traderjoes.com) 

And we can’t forget the Moroccan macaron, made without dairy here at Got Kosher Cafe.  It is impossible to taste the difference between thee beauties and dairy versions.   (www.gotkosherinc.com)12Jun01-265 2These days we’re referring to the French macaron, not the candy-kiss-shaped coconut meringue cookies, though are made of egg whites and almond paste and got their biggest boost both originated in Italy. But leave it to the French. Their more fragile version with a crispy outer shell and pillowy- soft yet chewy inside is inordinately tricky to prepare and .

“Macaroon,” comes from the Italian word for paste, maccarone, and, the first maccarone can be traced to an Italian monastery. The cookie arrived in France in 1533 with the pastry chefs of Catherine de Medici, wife of King Henri II (literally the Martha Stewart of her time, she who spread many glorious culinary trends across Europe).

The story continues with two Benedictine nuns, Sister Marguerite and Sister Marie-Elisabeth, who when seeking asylum in the town of Nancy during the French Revolution (1789-1799), baked and sold so many French macarons to pay for their housing, they became known as the “Macaron Sisters.”

About that time Italian Jews adopted the cookie for Passover because it has no flour or leavening, also adding chewy coconut to the dough. This “Jewish” sweet became popular all over Europe and America, and came to define “macaroon” – until recently!

New Gourmet Gift Baskets Highlight American Historic Classic

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KingOfPop.com has taken All-American popcorn,  rigorously tested for crispness, taste, and appearance, and added the highest quality items to come up with a dazzling, festive holiday gift, including Himalayan Salt and Anise.

The assortment comes in a reusable aluminum bucket.  Besides special occasions, they’re a gift that comes in handy for sports events (TV watching or at a stadium) or for families or guys in the middle of a house move.

Note the Sanders Milk Chocolate Sea Salt Caramels.  Historic. Sanders is a historic Detroit based confectioners  that first opened as a single candy store on Woodward Avenue and Gratiot on June 17, 1875.   Frederick Sanders Schmidt relocated from Chicago after his original soda fountain and candy store was destroyed by Chicago’s Great Fire of 1871.

When Sanders grew, he  introduced ice-cream, sodas and baked goods. … and the nation’s first ice cream soda.  I remember the marble counter, the paper water cup holders that came to a point at the bottom and their pewter holders.  It was really a glimpse into the past.  The hot fudge was hot “fudge” and their yellow cakes with buttercream frosting, made with real butter, and ground almond around the sides were not only perfect to celebrate birthdays but for breakfast the next day as well.

Located on the east coast in scenic New Hampshire, KingOfPOP.com opened their doors in 2012, operating under GourmetGiftBaskets.com, a family-owned gift e-tailer with over a decade of experience creating beautiful handcrafted products.

Since then, KingOfPOP.com has come far from its humble beginnings.  An established gourmet brand, they feature over 90 original flavors. Whether it’s classic Caramel or crazy Confetti, each of KingOfPOP.com’s flavors are handcrafted from scratch every day, using only the finest available ingredients.

Legendary Rick Bayless’ Mexican Best at Red O, Santa Monica

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) The bar is the star at Red O in Santa Monica. Corporate Executive Chef Marc Johnson’s new winter menu at Rick Bayless’ Red O, Santa Monica focus on flavors from Central Mexico, Baja and Mexicali.

It’s the flavors of Mexican  by way of food maven and Renaissance man, Rick Bayless, that drives the restaurant, and it is happy food and everyone at the restaurant seems pleased to be there working for him.
(This evening “mole” from the answer/question) about Chef Bayless’ creating a state dinner at the White House on Jeopardy question!)
Executive Chef Seth Vider who oversees Santa Monica.  He also  travels to the other Southern California locations to ensure consistency.
Here Monique pauses in between kitchen duties and she was such a joy we had to mention her.
A leading force in making sophisticated Mexican cuisine famous and his loving mastery of the cuisine, Rick Bayless’ legendary Chicago restaurants, Topolobampo and Frontera Grill are the kind of places you can refer a non-foodie or a top chef in LA to and know they will love it. I know. I’ve done it many times. And I’ve had the same experience myself, including one lifetime memorable experience being hosted by Deann Bayless at Topolobampo with friends and family. It does not get better than this.
No less than six Margaritas to choose from on the menu while diners puruse the menu at leisure.  A favorite is the House Margarita made with El Espolõn Blanco, triple sec, limonada and served on the rocks with a salt rim ($12).  Any margarita is transformed into a Cadillacs with a float of Grand Marnier ($3).
We also tried the Mescal Flight  that showcased Del Maguey ‘Chichicapa’, El Silence “Espadin” and Vago ‘Elote.
The Cocktail list alone is inviting enough to make up a meal.  On a warmer day we would have order The Cooler ($14) with Hendrick’s Gin, elderflower liqueur, fresh lime, simple syrup with cucumber and mint, served over ice.  Honey on Fire ($15) sounded just right for a colder time with El Silencio Espadin Mescal, habanero-honey, lemon, Yellow chartreuse.  Served tall

With one Red O (named after the Red Onion restaurant that Rick worked at long ago) already going strong in West Hollywood, this newer one faces the beach and incorporates more fish and seafood. As all Red O chefs, Johnson orders many as possible sustainable ingredients from local farms are used.New dishes are balanced with customer favorites, such as the Mary’s Taquitos or Mary’s Duck Taquitos ($16), comprised of slow-cooked duck, tomato-arbol chile sauce, and wild baby arugula.  The sauce is incomparable and why Chef Bayless earned his reputation.

Yellowtail Aguachile ($22) arrives almost translucent on the plate.  An overlay of hamachi yellowtail sashimi, spicy lime brother, avocado, know onion, cucumber and orange.

Looking more like Ricky Gervais than Ricky Gervais himself, Chef Carlos Hernandez came to the table and cajoled us into trying his favorite, The 18 oz Prime Cowboy Ribeye ($49), accompanied by impeccable, succulent, fried sweet plantains, crema, traditional black beans, and mole negro.

He and Chef Johnson share a background at Maestro’s so they are particularly fond of beef.  (He  told us with a laugh, “yes, Maestro’s is special because they have an original sauce that distinguishes them and no one has the recipe outside corporate!”) As with Maestro’s, it is the combination of the unique sauces and the quality meat (from Newport Meats).  Even the leftover beef at home was delicious the next day.

For those seeking the ultimate extravagance, Red O offers the Tablita for Two, featuring a grilled 32 oz prime tomahawk chop, one pound Maine lobster tail, tajin butter, black beans, Mexican red rice, pico de gallo, classic guacamole, flour and fresh white corn tortillas. (mkt).

 

Our table favorite of the evening was unanimously the Mariscos Chile Relleno ($29), a personal favorite of Chef Johnson’s.  Encased in a long, beauty of a pepper and making up an entire meal itself were Maine lobster, prawns, house cheese blend, white rice, black beans, and ancho-citrus sauce.

Sides to share ($7) include Fried Sweet Plantains, with cream and queso fresco, or an elevated take on Mexican Street Corn, with Poblano chile, cotija cheese, and cilantro. For an extra zip of greens there are Grilled Broccolini, accompanied with cotija cheese, chile flakes, garlic, and cilantro, or the Sautéed Baby Kale & Brussels Sprouts.

Red O Santa Monica also  has something specifically for the kids.  Cheesy Monterey Jack Cheese Quesadilla with corn tortilla, jack cheese, guacamole, white rice, and black beans, or the Grilled Chicken Tacos, accompanied with corn‎ tortilla, chicken breast, jack cheese, guacamole, white rice, and black beans.

The combination of balanced flavors and the slight sweetness of the cream, mole and plantains were enough to make a complete meal without dessert.  But our waiter also had his favorite to share: butter cake with custard and grilled strawberries.

After this sumptuous meal, a walk on the Santa Monica Pier in the crisp ocean air with glittering lights all around us, was the perfect ending to the meal.

Red O Santa Monica, 1541 Ocean Avenue, suite 120, Santa Monica, CA 90401 ( 310.458.1600), www.redorestaurant.com

Chef Leonardo Lucarelli’s Memoir: “Mincemeat”

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Matrimonio Greta e Lollo

(Gerry Furth-Sides) It takes a while to get into Chef Leonardo Lucarelli’s Memoir: “Mincemeat” but  Lucarelli’s passion for his calling as a chef deserves attention. However, as a reader who marks “memorable” passages with tiny post-it-like paper pieces, of the very few I have in this book, the first one is on page 158 when Lucarelli describes his jam-packed work day.  Compare this with Mark Kurlansky’s impressive SALT, a book that is nearly double the size because of so many little such pieces.

Self-styled Italian chef-anthropologist, Lucarelli, delves more into his own emotional roller coaster of feelings toward his culinary world, while working in various restaurants and for the most part trying to outsmart those around him, rather than introduce readers to his world.

His accounts include being on the staff of  opening restaurants, training underpaid or just  incompetent sous-chefs, courting waitresses, riding high on drugs to work long hours.

In his debut Mincemeat: The Education of an Italian Chef, Lucarelli maintains that even among rogues and misfits, there is a moral code in the kitchen that must always be upheld above all else.  And sometimes, as Lucarelli details it, he is one to learn it the hardest  way.

Selected as an Indie Net Pick for this December, Mincemeat is a worthy addition to anyone who reads memoirs, and who has an interest in the hospitality more than the culinary arts — which I do.

One has to admire Lucarelli.  An Italian born in India while his parents were traveling, he grew up in Umbria and moved to Rome on his own for school. To pay for his degree in anthropology, he embarked on a series of restaurant jobs – taking  on monumental catering jobs almost solo at times.   Upon completion at university, he continued working as a cook full-time, moving on to 15 different restaurants in Italy. Lucarelli currently lives in Abruzzo, works as a consultant for several restaurants in Rome and a cooperative society.

Yet all his enticing descriptions of colleagues, including “those who are part of that multitude of money and mankind that ceaselessly crisscrossed the globe, a flow very bit as complex and ever-changing as the climate,” there is never more than an evaluation based on the personal effect the person had on him.

Lucarelli’s introspective, philosophical side, however can be thought-provoking.  He writes, “In an average life, extraordinary events, positive or negative, are rare and usually involve extraordinary people.  We who are not extraordinary tend to believe that any old garbage that happens to us is extraordinary.  And if people aren’t interested in our fantastic stories, we feel cheated, which makes us competitive and mean.  Orlando’s rivalry was catching.  Day after day I soaked up his arrogance, along with his speed and stubbornness.”

And some of his descriptions do transport you to Bologna with him: “The city and I wake up at the same time.  Or at least that’s what I like to think- the aroma of coffee, the sounds of shops opening and cars starting.  Because when a city awakens, not only do its inhabitants open their eyes and reconnect with the world, but its walls are bathed in a certain light and its street surrender once more to being trodden on and driven over.”

Self-deprecating, “bad boy” story-teller, Anthony Bourdain in Kitchen Confidential, hooks readers with the first detailed, witty  description of the restaurant world he inhabited because he cares so much for his fellow workers and that he introduce them properly to us.  This is true even in the first magazine article in the  New Yorker magazine that preceded the book.

Southern-style story-teller, Bill Buford, folds us under his cape in Heat for a first-hand experience as he travels back and forth to Italy to learn historic culinary arts from masters — so intent on learning that we cheer him on to every victory (never mind that  New York Times Italian culinary  expert Faith Willinger frowns at his somewhat overblown descriptions of Italian chefs in order to make them good reading). When I was low and in-between projects at one time, I reread the book just for sheer enjoyment.  It worked.

And as for “must-read” books, I highly recommend Anthony Bourdain’s list.  (//www.businessinsider.com/anthony-bourdains-favorite-books-2013-7).   Ludwig Bemelmans and George Orwell (which was an 8th grade reading assignment I forgot soon after) are so remarkable that after reading them at the library, I immediately went out and bought them.  Add to that  Danny Meyer’s book on the hospitality industry, “Setting the Table.”  I don’t even run a restaurant and my post-it-note inserts start on page 3 and are on in almost every page right to the end.

Tonnino Tuna: The Wild Underbelly is the Best

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Tonnino Gourmet’s little glass jars even gleam in a special way to catch the light so you know there is something extraordinary in them.  This is a new kind of tuna at the table,  rich in a bath of olive oil or in clear fresh water.  At a time when there are so many cautionary tales about eating fish, it is welcome.  The tuna tastes like it was just caught minutes ago.

It is 100% yellow fin fillets, caught in the wild and jarred by hand,  rich in Omega-3s with the lowest mercury levels possible. Committed its environmental responsibility, each jar is dolphin-safe

Utilizing only the freshest, high quality ingredients, Tonnino offers eight innovative flavor varieties, including its award-winning Tuna Ventresca. Each jar contains only the finest cuts of tuna for exceptional appearance, texture, and taste.

Tuna’s versatility, healthy reputation and light flavor has long been a staple in the American pantry: drained albacore  is always a welcome choice and the American way is to punch it up with mayo and seasonings that slipped into family-favorite traditional salads, sandwiches, and casseroles. My mom used to chop up apples and celery and stud the tuna with it for a delightful crunch.

These days (above) a festive brunch dish may be poached egg, peas and Tonnino tuna – a few dots of hit chile sauce on the plate punch it up even more.  It is the definition of sophistication and convenience.

Tonnino’s classic, Italian-style, yellowfin is soaked in the purest olive oil to highlight the taste of the fish and not overpower it to enhance your favorite recipes.For an even lighter and natural flavor, Tonnino’s low-fat fillets are submerged in spring water to elevate any healthy salad.Tonnino’s award-winning tuna ventresca in olive oil is the finest cut of underbelly—the royalty of its gourmet jarred tuna.

People are fast learning to taste with their palate and their conscience, becoming increasingly aware of where their food comes from and that its production is socially and environmentally responsible – and safe.  Tonnino can certify and guarantee that fishing has not harmed any other species, only selecting small sized yellowfin tuna with low levels of mercury.

Sumptuous and sophisticated, Tonnino ranks there with gourmet brands, which uses hand-caught 100% yellowfin fillets. Tonnino is renowned for crafting exceptional cuts that are as rich in Omega-3s as they are in flavor.

Tonnino Tuna Ventresca is considered the best and finest tuna cut in the market.   It is sourced in the wild and contains only the freshest slices of underbelly. Hand-filleted, dipped in pure olive oil and with a singular, silky appearance, taste and texture, it can be go from jar to plate in a multitude of recipes, from a delicate niçoise salad to a good, old-fashioned sandwich.

With gourmet quality that did not go unrecognized, Tonnino Tuna Ventresca was presented with the Superior Taste Award in August of 2014.  An achievement granted by a jury of 120 international chefs and sommeliers, the Superior Taste Award is given to food and beverage products that hold a high standard of excellence. Each product is blindly reviewed and scored on its overall feeling of hedonic pleasure and sensory analysis. \

Recognized for its excellence in each category, Tonnino’s Tuna Ventresca is one of the 74 products marked for having the best quality and taste all over the world.

“Receiving the Superior Taste Award affirmed that we accomplished what we set out to do – provide a product that is a feast for the senses,” said Antonio Esquivel Carrillo, Tonnino’s Country Manager. “The most exceptional delicacies should excite you before you even take a bite, and our tuna is recognized for doing just that. We consider this a personal triumph just as much as we do a professional one.”

Tonnino’s classic, Italian-style, yellowfin fillets soaked in the purest olive oil, offers filters tropically-grown herbs and spices, ideal for pasta and pizza.  With just hint of spice, tuna fillets with jalapeño lend themselves well to Latin dishes.

Tonnino Tuna is available at Publix, Whole Foods, Fairway, Central Market, Wegmans, etc., and costs $7.99. For more information, readers should visit www.tonnino.com