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Gerry Furth-Sides

Celestino Pasadena Upholds Royal Family Pedigree

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img_3463(Gerry Furth-Sides) Pasta is the star of the Drago family restaurants.  And there are as many of them as brothers, even more these days, serving classic Sicilian and other Italian regional dishes with a sure hand.

celestino-dragoThe legendary oldest brother Celestino (pictured above at a charity event honoring him), inspired the Pasadena restaurant of the same name, one that translates into a  gold standard restaurant since Celestino first opened on Beverly Drive a quarter century ago.  In fact, the inspired, cheery chef is now “Cavaliere Celestino” since the Italian government knighted him a couple of years ago

We have been dreaming about the Pappardelle on Fabiano e Morelle (wide Fettuccine with Pheasant and Morel Mushrooms) on the seasonal Holiday Mushroom & Truffle Menu menu at Celestino in Pasadena’s tony south Lake district  for almost a year now.  It did not disappoint  in taste, texture and complexity.   And it is only one of the three sections to try of Morel Mushrooms, Porcini Mushrooms and Fresh Truffles from Italy.

unknownThe sauce teased every bit of flavor from the bird and perfectly complemented the fanastical mushrooms capped with the distinctive honeycomb appearance of ridges and pits.  They are impossible to cultivate and prized so highly they influence enthusiasts into a madcap hunt for them during the season, no pun intended.  And these are the best, from Italy!

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An open kitchen (rather than a showy bar) hints that cooking is key here.  At the same time it easily blends into the warm glow of the dining room, inviting and with enough pin lights for visibility.  It also seems to add a note of warmth and inclusivity of cook and customer, and the happy faces in the kitchen don’t belie this.

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It’s almost impossible to decide whether the service or the food deserves more accolades but we started with the food so let’s go with it.

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Be careful what you ask for here.   I merely mentioned the heels of the bread and got a basketful. Without asking for it.  It is impossible to eat just one:  Drago bakery that also wholesales to restaurants is the very best in town.   Their pretzel burger bun stands alone among all others and we miss LA Farm even more just for it.

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The beautiful intense deep red ROSSO di Montepulciano from the Poggio Golo winery in Tuscany was just the medium weight wine to pair with the rich pasta and the rabbit dishes, fruity and veinous.  Known to be food-friendly and practically priced, the glorious tall German wine glasses (that looked better than they photographed) added to its allure.  Interestingly the grapes for this ROSSO de Montepulciano from the municipality of the same name in the province of Siena differs from Montepulciano wine from grapes associated most often with Abruzzo and grown all over Central Italy.

img_3461The Zuppa del Giorno (soup of the Day) was pumpkin.  And pumpkin it was, with only a bit of butter added to the smooth, silky puree.  Mario told us that they rarely used broth so that the true flavor shines through of the vegetable.  A smiling swoop of olive oil and a drizzle of Creme Fraiche tops the dish.

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A whimsical presentation of Coniglio al Forno con Salsa di Olive Nere (Roast Rabbit with Black Olive Sauce) with baby potato, carrot, a teardrop tomato and spinach was light yet substantial.

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Mario brought out the famous Nonino family Moscato grappa, teasing to take the bottle when I loved the taste so much.  Originally done to simply use the grape leftovers from the winemaking process,  grappa is made by distilling the skins, seeds, pulp and stems, known as pomace.  It is usually sharp but here the sharpness is only the intriguing tart citrus spice because the addition of the moscato pomace lends an aromatic, soft, sensuality to the grappa.    The perfect ending to a perfect evening.img_3472

 

Profiteroles and Panna Cotta ended the meal.

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The very clever, and very delicious Panna Cotta (“cooked cream” in Italian) dessert which is made with sweetened ream thickened with gelatin and molded, here  had a citrusy fruit gel in the center of each circle instead of the usual berries or caramel or chocolate sauce.  It is fascinating that while panna cotta is thought of as a traditional Piedmontese dessert from the north of Italy, it was not mentioned Italian cookbooks before the 1960’s.

img_3449Calogero Drago (shown above right with head waiter Mario, and below) also keeps a sure hand on the front of the house.  The friendly Mario (left) only looks serious … although he is serious about his position at Celestino for 15 years… and actually began his career with Chef Celestino at the original Beverly Hills location.ndae8mryaoldhdxzcctwrdbpidjbb76ezhvkqvvlikyCalogero  hosts the sprawling set of white tablecloth dining rooms and spacious,  welcoming veranda on Lake Street as easily and personally as if it would be a tiny room, chatting up the customers and directing the staff in English and Italian.   (photo above and portrait below are courtesy  Celestino Restaurant)chef-calagero-drago-celestino-ristorante-npanzanella

Calogero Drago celebrates 15 years on Lake street and is the only Drago in Pasadena.  The crazy friendly and slightly frenetic  Il Pastaio perks up Beverly Hills and Drago Centro is a major downtown LA attraction.

Celestino Ristorante & Bar also has a very limited amount of the incredibly rare White Truffle.  Those “in the know” know to ask their server for the daily white-truffle specials.

Celestino Ristorante is open for lunch week-days  from 11:00 am to 2:30 pm.  Dinner is served 5:30 pm to 10:30 pm Monday through Thursday, 5:30 pm to 11:00 pm on Friday, 5:00 pm to 11:00 pm on Saturday and 5:00 pm to 10:30 pm on Sunday.

The Holiday Mushroom & Truffle Menu is available through the end of December 2016. For information or reservations, please visit www.CelestinoPasadena.com or call Celestino Ristorante directly at please call 626.795.4006.

Famous Indian Snack Recipes from Award-Winning Mayura Restaurant

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(Roberta Deen and Gerry Furth-Sides) Sensuous, intensely seasoned, crackly, whimsically shaped and in gloriously color, Indian snacks are irresistible.   Is it because these technicolor beauties are actually elevated (although somewhat ancient) savory versions of onion rings, pancakes, fried chicken and doughnuts?  It is not a matter of “now eating one.”  It’s a matter of not eating the entire plate.  And Mayura Indian Restaurant has the best.  Here  cooks at the famous eatery share their secrets

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We start with Vegetable Pakoras, which can only be described as a holiday wreath enhanced with brilliant hues of sunrise-sunset orange.  And they add to their crunchy onion ring cousin an array of vegetables to the mix.

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Thinly sliced red onion, matchstick carrots, potatoes, fennel seed powder and cilantro are mixed with garbanzo flour (Besan) and water and dropped by random in hands full into boiling vegetable oil until golden and crispy. Served with mint chutney for dipping.
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Sathi – owner’s Padmina’s sister is the line chef who prepares the Pakora’s.

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Shakthi – line chef, also a member of the family.

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Chicken 65

The chicken used is no more than 65 days old for tenderness
White meat Chicken is cut in bite-sized pieces and marinated in a blend of turmeric, chili powder, cornstarch and lemon juice for two hours.

img_0795The chicken is fried in boiling vegetable oil (coconut oil is used in Kerala for better taste. Vegetable oil here because of fear of cholesterol). A very generous amount of chopped cilantro is added at the last minute.

img_0817 img_0815The bright red chicken is mounded on a plate garnished with thin slices of red onion and juicy wedges of fresh lime.

Medu Vada

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The batter for these mini savory doughnut is made from soaked urad dal which are soaked in water, drained and ground with curry leaves, ginger and fresh chili.  The textures of this doughnut, ingrained with the leaves and ginger is a revelation because there is no processed sugar in them.  This is good and bad news because, again, everyone wants to finish them all.  The coconut chutney adds to its allure.

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img_0805It becomes thick like a bread dough which is scooped in a hand, shaped into a ball and pierced with with a thumb to creat a doughnut shape then dropped into boiling oil, turned once until deep rusty gold color, well drained and served warm with coconut chutney.

Poriyal
Mustard seeds, curry leaves, finely chopped red onion, bit of crushed garlic are sautéed in a bit of oil.

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When beginning to brown, sliced fresh black-eyed peas or Chinese long green beans are added the pot with steamed diced green plantain, carrots, cabbage, cauliflower (almost any combination of vegetables may be used. img_0846Cover the pot and simmer in its own juices for 10-15 minutes. Add dried grated coconut and serve over dreamed white long-grain rice.

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Sambar

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Chunks of carrot, eggplant, zucchini, tomato, okra, green beans, ground coriander, dried red chili to taste, turmeric, ground fenugreek seed, powdered asafitida, tamarind water (made by dissolving tamarind paste in water cooked until vegetables are soft but not loosing their shape.

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Yellow dal or lentils are simmered on the stovetop.

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Appam

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Mayura is the only if not one in LA of the rare restaurants to offer this special dish from Kerala, the  southwest, semi-tropical and spice-rich region India.  Able grill chefAbel Herendez has mastered the art — it took months.
It is Gluten free and again, irresistible– lacy, delicate yet substantial, just sweet enough and just tart enough from the fermented dough .

White long-grain rice ground in-house to a fine powder, mixed with water and allowed to ferment overnight. About 1/2 cup is ladled onto the hot grill until bubbles arise and burst and the appam are barely toasted on the the bottom. They are then covered (in this case with a chafing dish lid which covers about ten at once). The appam are scooped off the grill and stacked on a platter. They are wonderful straight off the grill with the flavor of raw sour dough bread.

img_0870They are equally great cooled. Our team unashamedly devoured the platter hot and cooled. Can accompany chicken tikka masala, vegetable korma, chicken or fish curry. We enjoyed every bite as they were but they would be perfect as a “bread” to scoop up the curries and other dishes.

We ended with small cups of rice pudding just slightly warm with cardamom spice, milk and just a bare hint of rose water. The pudding is much more cooked and less gooey than western style rice pudding.

New Fall (Spring in Brazil) Menu at Fogo de Chão

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IMG_0898As if the Market Table choices were not difficult enough to resist at the  Fogo de Chão churrascaria partychefs have just added brand new fall menu dishes to the array (spring on this southern continent!)(//fogodechao.com)

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Each dish, such as the textured Pear & Endive Salad, highlights the rich tradition of centuries-old Brazilian culture and complement the steakhouse’s variety of fire-roasted meats, such as the popular Brazilian picanha, tender lamb chops, and filet mignon.   Fresh, seasonal pears join julienned purple endive, crumbled bleu cheese and candied bacon with pear vinaigrette.

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The room in the evening as as warm, inviting and even brighter than we remembered it as lunchtime – and all the guests are ready to party.  You can feel the buzz as soon as you walk in.  We talked to three guys having a good time at the table next to us.  They appeared to be athletes form the mid-west.  And they were: tourists from midwestern England!

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Blackberry Azedo (Portuguese for “sour”) – In this perky cocktail, fresh blackberries are muddled with mint and shaken with Hendrick’s Gin, Crème de Cassis (black currant liqueur), and a house-made lime sour.  Fogo makes this drink international with the famous Hendrick’s produced in Scotland, known for its addition of bulgarian rose and cucumber to the traditional juniper infusion.  It is tart but not sour at all.

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Whisky Jam Sour – Fogo’s new take on the classic whiskey sour includes premium Monkey Shoulder Blended Scotch Whisky shaken with raspberry jam, orange bitters, and a house-made lemon sour.  It brings a refreshing balanced contrast between sweet and tart.

An updated  wine list features more than 55 South American labels each hand-selected to perfectly complement the numerous Brazilian specialties only found at Fogo de Chão.   We tried one of the fruity, dry and welcome Malbec vintages sourced from renowned Argentinian producers and one of the rich Chilean Cabernet Sauvignons.

Fogo de Chão’s other new autumn dishes include:

fogo_fall_roasted_butternut_squash_saladRoasted Butternut Squash Salad – Butternut squash, a winter staple in Brazil, is roasted with cinnamon and honey and then tossed with American cranberries andGreek feta.

 

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Butternut & Sweet Potato Soup – Creamy roasted butternut squash is blended with sweet potatoes and winter spices that works as a starter for any meal.

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Caution: We were determined to do our best to limit the southern Brazilian side dishes — and failed.  There are just too many tempting selections on the table.  I have not used my mom’s favorite phrase when we went to a cafeteria together in decades, “your eyes are bigger than your stomach.”  Manager Leo and our servers just laughed.   They are quite used to this.

IMG_0905We were better mannered with the the pão de queijo (warm cheese bread), meaning that the table finished one basket only.
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The classic Feijoada dish (black bean stew with rice, fresh orange and yuca flour), which can be a meal in itself – and is for most every Saturday in Brazil.

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The green signal for “more” or “red” for stop.

IMG_0927Just when you think you’re balancing out the Market Table with the beef, along comes crispy hot polenta, and caramelized bananas  served family style on the table.

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Fogo de Chão,  internationally famous Brazilian steakhouse, or churrascaria, for over 36 years specializes in in fire-roasting high-quality meats utilizing the centuries-old Southern Brazilian cooking technique of churrasco.

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The unusual and  wonderful peppers shown above were about the only dish a bit out of reach on the  Market Table feast that hadn’t been dipped into on the table when we went around.

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We “exercised” before the very last course with a very short  march into the kitchen hidden next to the enormous wine racks, where we were privileged to see the fiery ovens.

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Rafi (below) our server took great care of us — enticing us at the end of the meal with dessert, tres leches (three-milk cake).

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Guests can also choose between lighter seafood selections, or enjoy the gourmet Market Table only option at lunchtime for $15, and add individual meats priced individually.

For more information, visit //fogodechao.com

tiato kitchen + garden Entwines California-Vietnamese Cuisine in Santa Monica

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Server Yumarie brings out Steamed Chicken Dumplings and Corn Soup

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Tiato Kitchen + Garden Venue tucked into a tree-filled Santa Monica neighborhood has no rival as the prettiest, liveliest garden indoor-outdoor eatery in the city – let alone as the city’s biggest outside dining spaces.  Indoors, the soaring ceilings and polished concrete floors, reclaimed wood furniture and eco-friendly materials lend an organic sensibility and a contemporary sense of grandeur at the same time.

The menu designed for health-conscious west siders has  icons to clearly mark Vegetarian, Vegan, Dairy-free and Gluten-free.   The long list is dotted with ingredients like  kale, blueberries veggie smoothies and antioxidant-rich ingredients.  Many of the herbs used in the dishes are grown in TIATO’s on-site garden.

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Other examples of the healthy mission come in dishes such as the Tiato Eggplant Tofu (vietnamese herbs, black bean sauce, kale cabbage salad with a choice of brown or white rice).  The kitchen uses tapioca in the tofu so it is Gluten-Free.

img_2305-1Engaging proprietor, Catherine An heads up Tiato.  The beautiful, youngest daughter of the An family originally created the restaurant’s catering division that initially featured  Tiato as a private event space.  Tiato is the second generation wing of the House of An restaurant group built by family matriarch and executive chef Helene An. Sister Hannah recently opened District in West Hollywood recently).  (www.anfamily.com).

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“I was born in the United States and grew up here with American food all around me,” said An, as she spooned just the right amount of titan herb chili sauce on our Steamed Chicken Dumplings ($9) from the STARTER section of the menu.  “So I like to describe it as California-inspired Vietnamese and Asian-inspired California cuisine,” she added.

It is fitting that Tiato  is named after the “tia to” Vietnamese perilla plant, which has a fresh flavor similar to the Japanese herb shiso.  It is one of Catherine’s favorite. The fragrant leaf also symbolizes the cooking style of Executive Chef and family matriarch Helene An (Crustacean Restaurant).

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The almost translucent, handmade little dumpling packages on a bed of spinach are representative of classic royal cuisine.  It has a menu designation of  a “New” dish.

img_2291Sipping a Fresh Pressed Juice ($6.50) while we waited for our first course can turn out to be a welcome meal in itself.  I tried the Royal detox (beet, carrot and green apple) and my companion ordered the Green Goddess (broccoli, celery, green apple, honeydew and spinach).  We each liked our own better!  And I especially appreciated not only the rich beet and carrot flavors but not having to deal with preparing “colorful” beets that stain so easily.

The cafe offers draft and bottled beers, organic wines and a sake bar.

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Soup of the day was a textured  Corn Soup (Sup Bap in Vietnamese). It differs from the Chinese version because it is less thick.

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The local favorite is the multi-textured Antioxidant Spinach and Kale Salad ($13) shot through with an array of festive garden flavors and textures:  blueberries, beets, chèvre cheese, raisin, shallots, green apples, frisbee, flax seeds and each leaf- no more, no less- dressed in a pomegranate ginger dressing.  In this new format, kale became as revitalizing and silky as the first time I had it years ago.   Shrimp ($5) added a regal touch, seared on the outside, tender inside.

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Fresh herbs abound in the outdoor garden and are used in the kitchen whenever possible. Meyer lemons, kaffir limes, blood oranges, and mulberries  grow seasonally.

In the SANDWICHES & BUNS a Chicken Banh Mi Burger ($12), combines east and west.  What makes it unique, aside from house-made potato chips and pillowy brioche bun, is that the mayo is spicy, the veggie slaw is pickled and the cilantro is grown in the garden.

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Turkey Meatloaf in a San Marzano Sauce with mashed potato and spinach represents in the LARGE BOWLS & PLATES section,  represents American “comfort food,” laughed Catherine.  The  elevated seasoning made the dish special.  Like all dishes, it has to be prepared in 20 minutes or so to a hungry customer.  “We have a team that develops our menu and we know that it has to be executed relatively quickly but still maintain its integrity,” she said.

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Asian flavors star in  “Mama’s Kalbi” ($17), Korean-style short ribs with cabbage kale slaw and egg white fried rice.  The name, “Mama,” affectionately refers to Helene. img_2331

Espressos and warm over-sized chocolate cookies are favorite customer picks.  The Tiato muffin is usually sold out by the afternoon.

Chef Helene An is best known for creating the first Vietnamese  restaurant in San Francisco (Thanh Long, 1971), and Euro-Vietnamese Crustacean in Beverly Hills (1990).  An’s story is representative of the era, and a most dramatic one.  She had led a privileged life in Vietnam, (Helene’s paternal lineage held the royal title of Vice consul to the Vietnamese Emperor), but forced to flee Saigon with the new regime.

An first began  a new life in San Francisco with her young daughters, where she became a successful owner of first one and then more restaurants.  By the time chef Helene opened the showy Crustacean in Beverly Hills, she was so well known for her garlic noodles and roasted garlic crab, she prepared them in a  “secret” enclosed, interior kitchen.”  Even Guy Fieri of Food Network could not coax the recipe from her.

“I’m lucky because I grew up in the restaurant business,” Catherine told us. “Growing up, the kitchen was where my mother spent most of her time, and we all hung out in the kitchen.”  She describes the Vietnamese dishes on the menu as the “comfort food” her mother cooked for the family.  Having her food compared to that of her mother and grandmother “is the highest compliment I can receive,” she beamed.

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 Tiato Market Garden Café, 2700 Colorado Avenue, Suite 190, Santa Monica, CA,  310.866.5228 to leave a message.  For hours and more information, please see, www.tiato.com

Pressed Juicery Introduces Best Drinkable Vitamins

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img_2333(Gerry Furth-Sides) Meg and Mary drive in from Malibu to Brentwood Pressed Juicery      (www.pressedjuicery.com) for their Freeze snacks at least twice a week they told me.  The  “Freeze” (above) is the “vanilla” and “fruit” with raspberries (which replaced the mochi dots. The Freeze (below) is the “green” and “chocolate.”  It is garnished with blueberries and white chocolate dots.  And is is all fruitimg_2348

Is the continuation of a trend?   Now an American health snack and juice bar, the wonderfully visible Brentwood space was formerly a Pinkberry Yogurt (Asian fad-Asian yogurt store ).  The Starbucks across from was at one time a Haagan-Däaz ice cream store (American made-up Swedish name brand).  

 

The little side patio is backed with a country white fence and the beginnings of a garden.

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Marking the 15th Los Angeles store opening of Pressed Juicery, and the  new Brentwood location also features the pretty spectacular “Freeze.” A  Pressed Juicery original, the popular vegan, dairy-free, gluten-free frozen soft serve treat is prepared from only the ingredients found in juices.

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It took some convincing on the of Tommy Ray for my friend, restaurant owner, Martin of India’s Tandoor Brentwood, that there was no added sugar.  Martin cannot eat sugar and this was remarkable since the taste is so similar to yogurt.

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The four flavors (chocolate, vanilla, greens and fruits) can be garnished with healthy and unique toppings such as almond butter, chia seeds, fruit and cacao drizzle and is the perfect guilt-free treat.  All the items in the case look fresh and so appealing.

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The new Brentwood store also offers the brand’s cold-pressed juices, 2 oz. functional shots, signature beverages, specialty waters and cold-pressed coffee and specialty  waters in addition to and a variety of coffees.

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A curated selection of  small package snacks included *nourish snacks.  the Just Chillin features intriguing Mild Chile corn crackers with lime, a classic and contemporary favorite that is snappy and delicious.

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The popular cold-pressed juice chain, established in 2010 by childhood
friends Hayden Slater, Hedi Gores and Carly de Castro, was created with the  goal of making high nutrition a realistic option for everyone. To support  this mission, the brand will maintain a competitive price point with juices  priced at approximately $6.50.

*When:                  *7 AM – 10 PM Daily
*Where:                *11711 Gorham Ave, Los Angeles, California, 90049

*Born in a small broom closet in West Los Angeles, Pressed Juicery has expanded to 40 retail locations and offers shipping nationwide. Juices are made from 100% fruits and vegetables and never contain added sugars, waters or purees. Juices are cold-pressed using a custom hydraulic press to extract the maximum nutrients and vitamins with minimal oxidation.

The Pressed Juicery’s team is dedicated to creating attainable,
affordable and nutrient-rich juices based on the belief that wellness is a
right, not a luxury. Today, with locations throughout California, Nevada,
New York, New Jersey and Hawaii.

 

Carly de Castro: Letting go of yo-yo diets and rigid fitness routines, Carly discovered a more positive and balanced life through juicing. After losing her mom to cancer, Carly moved back home to Los Angeles and envisioned a business that would make nutrient-rich juice more accessible to all, particularly those with weakened immune systems.

Hayden Slater: A former fast food junkie, Hayden transformed his entire life by introducing juice into his diet, and has since lost over 60 lbs. Now feeling and living his best, Hayden has set a personal mission to promote health and healing to everyone, one juice at a time.

Hedi Gores: Born and raised in Los Angeles, Hedi has always strived to live a healthy lifestyle. But it was her role as a mom that led her to co-founding Pressed. Pursuing her passion, Hedi set out to create a place where people, especially kids, could incorporate healthy eating into their everyday lives.

 

 

Loire Valley Wines to Try and Why

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Terroir in the world of wine is everything. It provides invaluable clues as to the particular soil, climate and locale where a grape or bottle of wine was produced. And the Loire Valley has it all.

Known as the garden of France, the land of castles, the place where the purest French is spoken, the array of Loire Valley terrains are sensational and so are the practical prices across the board.

Loire Valley Wines

Although 87 appellations add to the mystique of this wine map there are  four major varieties. Aspecial spring pairing luncheon at the Ivory on Sunset, an exceptional introduction to four of the main varieties : crisp, grassy Sauvignon Blanc; versatile Chenin Blanc in all its styles; fresh and fruity Melon; and the surprising richness and ageworthiness of the Loire’s Cabernet Francs.

Loire Valley Wines

So it was appropriate that Los Angeles’ best known sommelier, and  Loire Valley Wines enthusiast Matthew Kaner (Bar Covell and Augustine),  greeted guests at the spring luncheon and chose the pairing menu to go with these four major varieties.

Loire Valley Wines

 

Loire Valley Wines

The A lovely crisp wine first wine was the Brut Sparkling Cremant de Loire (24.99) imported by Vintus with 60% Chenin Blanc and 20% each of Cabernet Franc and Chardonnay.  It marched  perfectly with the Hamachi Crudo.  The incredibly low price proved how affordable these wines are in every category.

Loire Valley Wines

Arriving from France just for the luncheon was vintner.
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Loire Valley Wines

Loire Valley Wines

Two wines paired with the Spring Crab Salad-a Sancerre 2014 from Domaine Sylvain Bailly, and a Rose from Emile Balland “Les Beaux jours 2015.”  The wines proved to have a springy spiriting the tasting with the Sancerre retailing for $19.98 and the Rose imported by Bonhomie wines for $22.99. Most of these producers are of the small batch variety.
Loire Valley Wines

 

A third course of Duck Rillettes again came with two wines, a Reuilly from Domain Cordet 2014 and Rose d’Angou from Famille Bougrier, 2015.  Rose sales in the USA continue to rise about 6% each year and the Loire Valley is now the biggest source of Rose after Provence.

 

 

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A summery Crispy Rainbow Trout with haricot vert arrived accompanied with twowines- a Caves Louis de Grenelle Cuvee from Saumur and a 2015 Chinon Rose from Domaine de La Lysardiere.  USA Wine West imports the sparkling Rose from Saumur that sells for $27.99.  We were privileged to enjoy the one and only bottle of the Chinon Rose that made it to America from France.

Loire Valley Wines

The dessert course of delectable Tart Tatin with Glazed Gala Apples and Cinnamon Chantilly Cream came with a Cremant de Loire Deligeroy Brut Rose, a very dry wine with a perfect acidity to pair with sweets.  The price of $12.99.

Loire Valley Wines

Allison Levine of Please the Palate at the head of the table.  Allison did a Loire Wine Tasting later in the month for her group.

www.loirevalleywine.com

www.ivoryonsunset.com

Interestingly enough, we came across in our files this dinner by a then-trendy, beloved new downtown restaurant, since closed.  And it featured Loire Valley wines!

A NIGHT IN LOIRE:

Four Course Food & Wine Pairing

Join us as we transport you to the famous Loire Valley wine region with a four course food and wine pairing. Stay tuned to our social media for more details on the night. $60 pp + tax/tip. Reservations are a must: 213-626-5299

Loire Valley Wines

Korean Father-Son Perfect Japanese Sushi at KURA

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IMG_9076(Roberta Deen and Gerry Furth-Sides) Virtually  “hidden in broad daylight” in a sprawling Sunset Boulevard strip mall, the spacious, subdued interior of Kura Sushi Restaurant becomes the realm of a sophisticated Korean father-son team (Sunny and Daniel) offering the finest of seasonal and omakase dinners prepared in true traditional Japanese style.  Its name is accurate:  In Japan the “kura” was historically a village storehouse holding precious heirlooms and provisions to support the local community.  IMG_9080

We were served the Kaiseki, a time-honored, very classic, formally organized Japanese meal with a set course of menu dishes.  The dishes are prepared with the five basic cooking methods: raw, steamed, simmer, fried, grilled. It also refers to the elaborate collection of chef skills and techniques that go into the preparation.

The thoughtful, series of small-plate summer  omakase (oh-ma-kha-say) or chef’s choice  arrives in the traditional manner of light to dense fish, as well as  a progression in the manner of cooking, under the sure hand of Executive Chef Daniel Son.  Chef Son does show his Korean influence in bolder and often dazzling presentations.  We were especially lucky to be at Kura on a Thursday, when Chef Son receives from the famed Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo a “mystery box” of seasonal fish and seafood, usually wild, to challenge him.

A small glass of Dassai 50 Sake smoothed out all frustrated feelings about the blazing heat and traffic outdoors.  We already were impressed by Chef Son’s Corn Soup Recipe and background when we introduced him to LocalFoodEater this past spring.  //localfoodeater.com/kura-chefs-favorite-japanese-summer-corn-recipe/)

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First to arrive was a small porcelain bowl decorated with a tangle of summer flowers.  This traditional  first course to introduce the meal, Chowwon Mushi, is usually served hot, this one touched with snow crab and egg custard and carrots in a delicate yet rich dashi.

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At first glance, it is looks to be a tomato broth but underneath the golden-tinged film is another layer to be explored.

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Once stirred, the slightly chewy texture of the snow crab, the bite of carrot and the silky egg custard in the gossamer dashi broth combine into a heavenly nectar fit for the Gods.  With all due respect and apologies, “Chef Daniel  had us” with this first course.

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While we were still trying to catch out breath, the Kyushu Sashimi Flying Fish from Japan placed in front us that Chef Daniel had been working on behind the counter took it away again. Perched on a shredded daikon radish nest, the ponzu, scallion and ginger provided the exact amount of sweet, tart and texture to enhance and balance the fish.

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“Summertime is the season of the flying fish,” Chef Daniel reported.  “It is especially prized because of its roe.  The box arriving from the famous Tsukjii Fish Market in Tokyo specializes in fish for Edomae. This at one time referred to fish caught in Tokyo Bay and now includes surrounding waters from the southernmost island of Kyushu to Hokkaido – plus the best in the world that is practically attainable.

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The “behind-the-scene” props that held the fish aloft added to the fun and “insider” feeling. It is fitting that Chef Daniel, who started working at the restaurant when he was 15, has experience in the world’s top kitchens from the venerated Spago (under Chef Tenzu) to one Michelin star, Sushi Yoshizumi under Master Akira Yoshizumi, and Noma (rated best in the world). He shared, “a lot of preparation goes on for a single night.  It’s like being a part of a creative Cirque du Soleil performance where you prepare and are in sync – and the reward is in the reaction of the people you are serving.”

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The cloud-like delicacy of Hotardo Ika (baby squid) and cubed Monk fish Liver in a sauce of yuzu (citrus) and ponzu is belied by its pedestrian, brownish color.  Poached, then cooled down and flambeed with sake, ginger is added to the monk fish liver along with soy sauce and kombu.  The cleanness, the softness, the unique pairing in this initial course define everything embodied in the Kaiseki style.  “and I was born to preserve the Kaiseki style,” Executive Chef, Daniel Son, tells us as he works his art.

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Chef Daniel puts the finishing touch on Nigari Sushi (with rice) which is presented next in the progression of light to dense.  Nigari referred to “hand-pressed sushi” presented on an oblong mound of sushi rice.

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First, the  leanest, pale white Sweet Lip  Emperor Fish  is embellished only with lemon juice and Himalayan Pink Salt.  Also known as the Sweetlip Swooze, this fish ranging in lively  red to light grey colors, lives in reefs and are prized for their lovely taste.

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Chef Daniel adds a touch of  Oroshi Ponzu, ponzu with a bit of  horseradish, to the Japanese Green Fish that pairs with it.  Chef Daniel told us that the very small portion of Tokyo-style rice,  a very sweet Osaka rice best balances out the flavors of the fish.  Osaka cuisine is known for being light and the rice for enhancing, rather than interfering, with the individual flavors of the fish.

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A bit meatier, a bit firmer and a bit fattier and served with lemon and Himalayan Pink salt is “Bar-Tailed Flathead” or Magochi, paired with Madai, Japanese Sea Bream, here served with a touch of lime and Himalayan Pink Salt.  It is properly prepared with Sudashi, a rare citrus fruit.

img_9120The effervescent, intelligent server/manager, Annie, turns out to be Chef Daniel’s sister!  She presents the next course, a step up in a rich and fattier fish, with a touch stronger flavor as well.

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Inada (Young Yellowtail); Konpachi, brings with it a subtle but surprisingly different flavor and texture; and Bari, an Australian mature Yellowtail, is here served with Wasabi and a house-made soy sauce, which Daniel prepares with sake.

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Deeper in color, the Norwegian Salmon Belly lends a soft, satiny, stronger flavor. It is garnished simply with ground toasted sesame seed.  Shiroito, the Ocean trout paired with it, is dressed with Kombu, a refreshing white sea kelp with a flavor reminiscent of the ocean.

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To enhance the progression of the fish, from raw to cooked,  roasted and seared Katsuo (Skip Jack Tuna), is paired with the deeply colored Toro, medium fatty tuna, that is seared to tenderize it. Toro is a huge fish with the most belly tender for sashimi.

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I had mentioned how much I was intrigued with Hokkaido and Chef Daniel beamed when as he presented a Hokkaido Scallop from this rugged, northernmost island of Japan, renowned for its wild fish and seafood.  He enhanced it only with pickled daikon red radish and seared sesame Nori. 

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Chef Daniel was quick to let us know that in addition to the Kaiseki concept, “we have rolls and sashimi, too!”  to prove it, he brought out a crab, cucumber and Japanese mayo wrapped in Nori as the last though of the meal before dessert.

 

img_9149Dessert was a meal unto itself as well – and shows the best of Daniel’s  playful Korean influence, along with his work at world famous restaurant. Chef Daniel has taken the street food, Taiyaki, the little red bean paste and custard-filled fish batter mold cookies.  The chef  added to it house made Black Sesame ice cream with a black sesame crumble.  A whimsical abundance of riches after a spectacular meal.

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Colorful rows of chopsticks on a divided wall shelf welcome KURA “regulars” into the restaurant with a friendly-community manner.  The chopsticks are used to eat sashimi and not the nigiri sushi we were privileged to enjoy, which are always eaten with your fingers even in the most formal of settings.

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Embracing both family and community, KURA has established itself as a “Purveyer of Fine Sushi and Japanese Cuisine” since it opened 15 years ago in a Sunset Boulevard strip mall at Crescent Heights in West Hollywood.  “Audaciously refreshing” describes the experience best.

Kura – www.kura-sushi.com
8162 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, CA  90046 (323) 656-6347

Meat and SO Much More Star at Fogo de Chão’s Brazilian Steakhouse

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event-3316067The biggest surprise about our meal at Fogo de Chão, (“fire on the ground”in Portuguese),the world’s leading Brazilian steakhouse/churrascaria, were the superb side dishes that stood up and sometimes above the Brazilian-born gaucho chefs’ authentic, superb grilled meats – from beef filet mignon to Brazil’s signature piranha.

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The experience is as straightforward as a gaucho campfire only magnified a thousand times and done in the most tongue-in-cheek, theatrical manner.
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Yes, the show is all there with gaucho’s bearing filets and steaks of beef, lamb chops, shrimp and seafood carving off the exact slice you choose, rare, medium or well-done. A small plate and a pair of tongs at every place setting is there to nap the sliced off meat from the skewer when the gaucho slices it off for you.
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The fun of the experience is simply placing your cardboard disc as a sign to the passing gauchos on the table as they pass by with skewers.  The green disc signifies  “yes” (sim, for favor) to have them stop by and red for “no Thanks (obrigado).” The steady offer for more food is one of the churrascaria.

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What can you say about cheese dinner rolls?  Baskets of Brazilian yucca-flour cheese puffs, pão de queijo, put mini-popovers in mind with their paper-crisp exterior and spongy interior and are as addictive.  We are paleos who adore beef, shrimp, lamb chops and every kind of beef.  We could have made a meal of these freshly baked little beauties, we stopped wondering whether it was the buttery, puff pastry texture or something else instead in order to go on with the meal.

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We could also have made a meal of the national dish of Brazil, at the Feijoada Bar where half-pans are replenished filled with warm Black Bean Steak Sausage and Farofa (Roasted Yucca Flour with Bacon) and “dirty rice” of rice with beans and special seasonings.  But, oh those seasonings.   This dish is a ritual every Saturday for all Brazilians. IMG_0927

Caramelized bananas, hot, warm cheese polenta, and garlic- mashed potatoes are also places on each table in the dining room.
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Fresh lemonade and the Brazilian national drink start off a meal although there is a long wine list. Fogo de Chão is the only restaurant brand in the Americas to have at least one level one sommelier in each restaurant and one of the largest lists of South American wines.  Caipirinha is usually the order of the day, the national drink of a lime juice-infused cocktail prepared with a sugar cane liquor, cachaça.
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This is a salad plate from the buffet table and a fraction of what is available, all made from farm-fresh ingredients and seasoned perfectly.  Again, yes, we could have made an entire meal of the salads – perfect for vegetarians.

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The Fogo de Chão experience begins as you enter the magnificent restaurant facade with soaring ceilings inside and host Dan to welcome you.  A smiling valet gave us the option of parking our own car that us happy. It was the beginning of hospitality that lasted through the meal.  It is a “show” with a warm spot for its audience.

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Inside Manager Leo, Leonardo Bauer (above) and Host Dan (below) took over the hospitality inside.

IMG_0941Fogo de Chão is a leading Brazilian steakhouse, or churrascaria, which has specialized for more than 36 years in fire-roasting high-quality meats utilizing the centuries-old Southern Brazilian cooking technique of churrasco.

 The company was founded in 1979 in Porto Alegre, Brazil, and expanded into the U.S. in 1997.  There are currently 42 locations throughout Brazil, the United States, and Mexico For more information, visitFogo.com.   “The Gaucho Way,”  video shot through the eyes of real Fogo de Chão Brazilian gauchos  explores the restaurant’s deep cultural roots in Southern Brazil.

FOGO DE CHÃO –  133 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills 90211 (310) 289-7755

“Must-Try” Off-the Menu Famous Jordanian Classics at Jo Jo’s Mediterranean in Tarzana

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) The “insider” tip for new   Jo Jo’s Mediterranean Grill is that the mysterious, unidentified  image on the menu turns out to be the famous, colossal ruins in Baalbek (Lebanon) to introduce Lebanese favorites featured on Jordanian owner’s Malik Haddad’s menu.

Most commonly billed Mediterranean to encompass even more than growing Middle Eastern popularity,  the more academically correct term is Levantine Cuisine which covers Jordan, Palestine, Syria and Lebanon and Jordan – all  influenced by the powerful, far-reaching Ottoman Empire umbrella when Turkey reigned over the area.  For instance, Malik told us that Lebanese spices are used in the famous Jordanian specials listed below.  To update the menu  even more to the lighter California palate, vegetable oil is always substituted for butter in recipes that don’t require olive oil for which Jordan is famous.

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Jo Jo’s on Facebook or the sign outside is the only  “insider’s” way to know when special Jordanian dishes will be offered.  These include famous Mansaf, Maklouba (M’lloukhiya), and M’sakhan.  Mansaf, a traditional Levantine dish made of stuffed lamb cooked in a sauce of fermented dried yogurt and served with rice or bulgur.  It is considered the national dish of Jordan and a cultural symbol for generosity.

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IMG_0284Lamb Shanks are made in the traditional way and the fermented items have an uncommon taste to the uninitiated  “so some people  ask  if the meat is spoiled,” laughs Malik.  It’s all part of the fun and the sense of community that Malik creates.  In the outside back patio at the edge of the (free) parking lot, diners linger over a meal even in the hot Tarzana sun.

IMG_0298There is something for everyone on the menu.  Common, popular everyday Middle Eastern snacks start the Vegetarian Appetizer section with addictive  balls of deeply textured Falafel, rippled with deep-fried crunch on the outside, creamy on the inside with blended fava beans and chick peas, and served with tahini sauce, tomatoes and pickles.  (The plate of 5 pieces is $5.95 or 8 pieces for $7.95.

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Hummus (chick peas blended with tahini, lemon, garlic, deep) uses Jordanian seasonings, starting with the Za’atar, a mixture of sesame seeds and thyme with oregano, sage or sumac often added to the mix.  Pita is often just rolled into the mixture and eaten alone.

IMG_0286Baba Ghannouj is another favorite (eggplant charred and blended with tahini sauce into a spread at$5.50 a plate.).  The eggplant is fire-roasted in the performance kitchen.  Additional small bite dishes to try include creamy, homemade Labne yogurt, the Vegetarian Combo ($10.95) with Hummus, Tabbouli, vegetarian grape leaves or Dolmas, Falafel and Baba GhannoujIMG_0296

Cauliflower ($5.50), simply sautéed and topped with tahini sauce and parsley makes a rich, satisfying dish because of the beautiful seasoning ($5.50), only one of  the list of 12 vegetarian starters.

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Stuffed, pillowy Pita Sandwiches ($6 to $8, big enough to share) arrive as multi-textured layers.  Here melted cheese and torn mint with a toss of julienne cucumbers and fresh tomato makes a simple piece of inviting Pita inviting into a light meal.

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The Shish Combo ($17.95) gives a wonderful introduction to the shish kabob, shish tarok and shish kata.  The meat is so fresh and of quality that only parsley, garlic and green pepper are added to it.

Fattoush, the fresh, crispy romain lettuce with tomato, cucumber, parsley, also comes under the SALAD heading ($6.95, to which a meat or chicken shawarma can be added for an extra $4.99.) Other salads include a Greek Salad,  Spinach Feta and Housemade Yogurt & Cucumber topped by dry mint.

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Daily lunch specials ($9.95 and $10.95 for Shish Kabob) are served with a choice of rice or fries, soup or salad, hummus and for $2 extra a choice of grilled veggies or any salad on the menu.

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The focus on the new Jojo’s Mediterranean Grill is savory so Malik sources desserts like Baklava (2 pieces for $2.99) from the best nearby bakery.

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Named after the family son, Jo’Jo’s Mediterranean Grill as a family-driven corner restaurant is strong in both authentic, homemade food and warm Middle Eastern hospitality. Synchronisticity places it on the site of a Panda Express, a company also started by an immigrant entrepreneur,  Chinese-born American Andrew Cherng, who did very well for himself.

Irrepressible owner and fit Martial Artist, Malik is by profession an electrical engineer so he is able “to use systems” to streamline his operation and have time to get to know customers.  Well-trained by a master chef who once cooked for the Royal Family that Malik met while living in Detroit, he nevertheless laughs at his schedule, “I can’t keep up with myself.”   At that point I lose track of the conversation because  I was so stunned at Malik living in the 90’s depressed Detroit area and happily making a terrific go of it.  In his words, “I thought it was just great – except for not having the Mediterranean (California) climate.”

Jojo’s Mediterranean Grill, 18507 Ventura Blvd (parking lot entrance on Reseda); (818) 654-5886. //www.jojosgrill.com/.

 

LEE FISH USA Introduces New Zealand Snapper & Japanese Iki-Jime Technique

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Whole NZ Snapper
(photo courtesy of LEE FISH USA)

(Gerry Furth-Sides)This summer shoppers across the US who picked up one of prized high-quality New Zealand Snappers this summer at Whole Foods were simultaneously learning from and supporting this small sustainable fishing community from the other side of the world while eating one of the best tasting fish on the planet.  If you are looking to the test for fresh fish, this is the freshest:  clear eyes, no fishy smell, firm texture.

Editor’s Note:  My first challenge at Western Research Kitchens/Lee & Associates, Inc., who helped organize the Southern California Fish Association (no connection to the fish import company below) was to show on TV how easy it was to cook fish.  Having no idea myself,  I created a  “kids can cook fish” campaign, later using prominent chefs to present fish seminars to restaurant chefs. Decades have passed but somehow the availability and the technique of cooking fresh fish (to say nothing of eating fish) is more familiar on the east coast and along the northwest coast, perhaps because  they are the home to harbors where consumers are more familiar with fresh fish than in Los Angeles though the ocean is nearby.  These days, just off-the-boat, prized  Santa Barbara shrimp and uni (also from Carlsbad waters), are already becoming more than the secret of restaurant chefs.

IMG_1311New Zealand native, Miles Bowker of LEE FISH USA updated this summer’s story for us this way: ” The small town of Leigh, New Zealand may only have a population of 750, but it’s an example to the world of how to do humane, sustainable fishing can be done right.
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Whole Foods participated in a summer promotion on the iconic New Zealand Snapper, known as Tai Snapper, prized for its golden scales, light blue spots and delicious taste – across the U.S. (photo courtesy of LEE FISH USA)

Two Leigh fisherman holding large NZ Snapper
Every Leigh resident in the small town of 750 has a relative who was fishing, packing or trucking the snapper to the airport for the Air New Zealand flight to the USA, starting with the 30 employees and the forty independent boats that fish for the company. (photo courtesy of LEE FISH USA)IMG_1341At the receiving end at  Lee Fish USA Inglewood, thirty factory employees went to work at the factory filleting, sorting, and packing the gorgeous, just about pure fish “Lee Fish” brand. (read more).

Leigh workers processing fish

These small artisan fishing boats brave the harsh New Zealand winter waters for 12-24 hours at a time to catch New Zealand Snapper using the longline fishing method, New Zealand Snapper (also known as Tai Snapper)– prized for its golden scales, light blue spots and delicious taste – across the U.S.where a single line with baited hooks is used to selectively pick the fish, which is cleaner, has a better, firmer texture and a less fishy taste.

NZ Snapper being pulled from water

(photo courtesy of LEE FISH USA)

The fish are brought out of the water alive and killed using the Japanese Iki-Jime method, which humanely kills the fish instantly preserving the freshness and taste.

The “Iki-Jime” technique (read more) is practiced on a small scale around the world, and usually only performed to meet the discerning demands of high-end sushi markets in Japan. It’s rare for US consumers to be able to buy fish that is truly sashimi-grade and of a quality suitable for the most discriminating chef.

Leigh fishing boats
Whole Foods sources seafood based on scores by the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch (read more) as well as the Safina Center projects that give sustainability ratings to fish buyers. The New Zealand Snapper meets these standards as an inshore fish which is managed under the world leading New Zealand quota management system for sustainability.

Lee Fish USA is America’s leading importer of the finest fresh seafood from around the globe since mid-twentieth century.  Their philosophy has always been one of a deep regard for the sea and the environment, for sustainability and responsible behavior.

In the last decade, Lee Fish USA has put an emphasis on Australia and New Zealand.  This area is set apart by a rich harvest of shellfish and seafood from the pristine waters of the Southern Ocean-ranked among the world’s best.  Tasmanian Ocean Trout is ample proof, so fresh it is sashimi grade (it is actually suggested that the belly be eaten raw) and requires about half the cooking time.

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Here is the fish at market, all carefully cut, dressed and ready for sale.

IMG_1371The Ocean Trout was quickly transported in a sealed bag with a separate block of sealed ice to India’s Tandoor Brentwood.   The chef seared it in the tandoor oven and served it simply with a salad and lime slices – and a glass of pinot grigio.

Lee Fish USA also imports from Spain, Italy, Tahiti, Japan, Malaysia, Chile, Peru and Hawaii.

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