Gerry Furth-Sides

Cocina Condesa Elevates Mexican Street Fare in Studio City

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(Gerry Furth-Sides wth Chef  Roberta Deen) The inviting, open air front of Cocina Condesa sports a whimsical street-cart  sign advertising “Street Food and a Mezcalaria.”  The sophisticated, rustic new restaurant fulfills its promise in every way. A warm, professional Latin sensibility in the waitstaff matches bold, contemporary flavors of multi-talented, Executive Chef Eddie Garcia overseeing this kitchen of this new restaurant, the name aptly describing “Kitchen of the Contessa.”

IMG_0676Cocina Condesa’s lively, cavernous double storefront could be the baby of Ciudad downtown and the much-missed old studio hangout, Cabo Cantina in Culver City (now Tender Greens).  It calls out, “Welcome!” on a drab section of Ventura Boulevard across the street from car lots.
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Well -thought out detail also set it apart, from the charming hand-carved wooden plates to the careful arrangement of brightly colored chairs in the multi-level dining areas.  IMG_0664Look closely. The outdoor, lower level seating  is just at the right height for the server to perch on the wooden building wall at a friendly eye-to-eye level with diners.  I missed the shot because the staff can move fast- though they are there the absolute minute they are needed.

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Here is a glimpse of the changing, backlit images of Baja projected on one of the wonderful reclaimed wood walls.   Carlisle explained to us the menu, complete with ingredients, of ANTOJITOS or “Little cravings”, Guacamoles and Salsas, Tacos, Ensaladas and “More Good Stuff” (Burritos and Enchiladas) and Big Plates (which are big, with practical prices).  And she reminded us of the special Happy Hour events.IMG_0649

 

Street food is at the same time authentic and elevated.  The stunning (huge) Oaxaca  Chocolate Mole Chicken Enchiladas was the star, making a grand entrance  ($12 at lunch; $16 for dinner) on a wooden platter.   “This is a dish to pay attention to while you’re eating it,” says Chef Roberta Deen.  She explains, “The gorgeous presentation of chile cocoa mole spreads over three enchiladas, topped with a coat of wavy Zebra striped crema.  The texture is so refined and light, thick enough to coat but not gluey,  the opposite of the usual and accepted“muddy” texture.   Little bowls of refried white beans made the dish even more uncommon, with  some of the best Mexican rice (moist, firm when it is cooked right in the kitchen)I’ve ever eaten.  And I’ve had legendary Mexican food expert Diana Kennedy’s version of this. I would been happy with just a bowl of this Cocina Condesa mole and some chips.”
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All it takes for me to be happy is Machaca and Eggs, here with plenty of heat without being spiky in the mouth. Chef Eddie’s Machaca is not the traditional air-dried beef but a scramble of braised beef brisket, augmented by sautéed peppers and a crispy poblano hash.

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Huevos Rancheros is described by Chef Roberta as “layers of sunny side up eggs, the yolks were not runny but still custardy, superbly done, and homemade salsa on a house-made corn tortilla.   A big plate of hash browns, though crispy and flavorful, became an odd addition  to this Mexican dish.”

IMG_0673Desserts are sumptuous and also clever, the petite churros even served in their own ruffled brown bag, sitting next to a tiny pot of melted caramel sauce for dipping and pieces of fresh fruit — all covered with a shake of powdered sugar.   “I wish I had thought of doing mini-churros for my parties,” laughed Chef Roberta who was the opening chef of the legendary Along Came Mary, Inc.   But, she noted, ” like all great street food, the “just-out-of-the-fryer taste is key.  And this plate has such perfect balance of sweet-to-tart.”

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We mentioned a birthday upon arrival and “had to say “no more.”  Out arrived the Tres Leche Cake. Chef Roberta:  “this cake (a classic because of the three different forms of milk it is prepared with) was moist, thoroughly soaked, but not over soggy.  The fruit provided just the right hint of tart to balance the sweetness of the cake for the dish.” It’s fitting and a bit of a homage in terms of Chef Eddie, who studied with the legendary Mary Sue Milliken,  who once revealed that baking was her favorite thing to do, and tres leche cake her favorite to make.

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The Mexican version of Cayenne Brownies glazed with vanilla sauce, come as four-inch squares of perfectly cooked, gooey, fudgey brownies with a hint of cayenne, accompanied by a big baseball of fried vanilla ice cream covered in crunchy crushed walnuts, fresh fruit and a creme glaze, ample enough to share.

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Chef Eddie holds Churros and Brownies.  The server here holds densely textured Dark Rum Flan with Pineapple Whipped Cream, fresh cut berries.

Cocina Condesa Executive Chef Eddie Garcia discovered his passion for cooking as a teen and “to this day continues to draw inspiration from the common cultural tradition of traditional Aztec dancing after having the privilege of being raised within the rich and deep-rooted history of Mexican culture.”

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Garcia is dedicated to infusing each dish with this culinary heritage, “instilling into each original dish bold flavors and fresh and seasonally conscious ingredients entwined with pieces of Aztec cultural history.”

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Hard working and talented (his career flourished from the age of 16) Chef Garcia remains emblazoned with with the edgy symbols of the Pacoima streets in which he grew up.   His  attitude of curiosity and his capability quickly resulted in his partnership with prominent restaurants and bars, ranging from the eastside Malo’s (Silverlake) to City Tavern (Culver City).  At Sweeney’s Ale House and The Woodman, put he put together impressive,  unique bar food menus.  To broaden his range, Garcia studied some of the city’s most influential chefs, including Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger of Border Grill and Ciudad.

IMG_0638Mixologist David Rubin, Cocina’s  Executive Beverage Director and Mezcaleria curator, brings back from a recent New York City stint,  yet sophisticated cocktails that combine the southwestern flair of Mexico and straightforward, fresh seasonal ingredients of California.  A Caipirinha cocktail, Brazil’s national drink, shows his cutting-edge contributions and adds a little touch of the Olympics.

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Above in a tin cup topped with a watermelon cube, David Rubin’s  Bronco is prepared with Whisky, Fresh Ginger, Soda, fresh Watermelon Juice and Fresh Lemon Juice.  The drink is as refreshing as a just-squeezed farm lemonade but the punch it packs hits an hour after it is finished!
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True to its restaurant description of a Mezcaleria, the list of Reposed and Anejo and Double anejo tequilas (so good that the list includes one at $50!). Mezcals fill one entire menu page.

Please see the website for Happy Hour and events. Cocina Condesa //www.cocinacondesa.com/
11616 Ventura Boulevard, Studio City, CA 91604 (818) 579-4264.

International Food at Mandalay Beach Hotel & Resort

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Embassy Suites Mandalay Bay Hotel & Resort

(Gerry Furth-Sides) The former agricultural center of the west coast is home to the  all grown up Embassy Suites Mandalay Beach Hotel & Resort still inspires the nostalgia and longing of Kipling’s soldier for the old Mandalay, in this case updating  the original smaller form with a new resort extraordinare, the sole all-suite hotel in Southern California to sit on the glorious open natural beach.

Day or night, the road to this Mandalay Is convenient and easy to drive, a few miles west of Oxnard’s center, Plaza Park.  The spotlit driveway lined with palm trees is impressive as any Scottsdale resort.  The front faces east with an impressive Spanish cathedral look; the back gently faces the Pacific Ocean, no fence except the natural dunes.  The laid back atmosphere is touched here and there with guests on their way to planning or attending weddings, business conferences, a pool party, renting biking or just plain relaxing on a bench out back.  And at day’s end, the best bed with the best view awaits.

 

Bed with the Best view in the world

View from Bed and the Deck Outside

Coast Grill’s superb server, Jacob, confirmed that we indeed were at the very same Embassy Suites Mandalay Beach Hotel that had the Sunday morning “all you can eat seafood events.”  (My husband always teased that I would be blackballed because I ate so much shrimp, uni, crab; it was heaven.) Otherwise the current grounds are hardly recognizable with a new, free-form giant swimming pool, two spas, tennis courts and enough waterfalls so that you can hear the soothing, sound of rushing water almost everywhere you walk on the property.   The conceptual design intention for the update was “to keep the integrity of the picturesque original layout, while adding a sense of luxury to the space for both residents and visitors alike.”  The designers far and away succeeded fulfilling their goal, at the same time  creating an ambience of a far away destination set in an easily accessible oceanfront location.

The magnificent back beachfront scene, tranquil and restorative, changing hourly with the light, alone fulflls this mission.  While the rugged dunes stand guard and conceal from view the beachfront ocean waves and swimmers, the walkway between dunes and hotel resort carry very pleased runners, walkers (with and without dogs) and bikers somehow transforms  a shared congenial experience.

 

Coastal Grill Restaurant

The new Coastal Grill restaurant, set against the dramatic beachfront captures both the spiffy feel of a white tablecloth eatery and casual dining.  High ceilings and multiple areas equip it to easily handle group dining parties while maintaining an intimate feeling. Views from sides of windows provide spectacular views of the Pacific.  Guests can also opt to dine by poolside or beachfront from11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily.

Breakfast, buffet style or cooked to order, is served from 6 am to 10, compliments of Embassy Suites Mandalay Beach Hotel.  The most accomodating grill cooks wear a huge smile from 6 a.m. on at the breakfast grill station, even saying aloud they couldn’t be more pleased to make every guest happy.

Before dinner, a  complimentary two-hour Manager’s Reception was prepared for guests at the casual snack bar the large pool, offers very simple appetizers and two wines or drinks served up smartly by a candid, friendly bartender.  It’s a clever way to get guests to mingle at the little tables nearby.  The evening I started a conversation with witty couple, Maranda and Steve, Maranda turned out to know all about the spirits after working the quirky job of secret shopper at Trader Joe’s to make sure young customers showed ID.

Next came dinner in the Coastal Grill.  American fare is featured, with clean, fresh presentations, quality meats, grilled poultry, fresh fish caught from the local waters. There is a spin on classics, such the signature Cheese Burger consisting of a special blend of short rib, tri tip and New York steak with White Cheddar on a brioche bun

The young, local server, Jacob, has to be ranked one of the top five servers my last two decades of guidebook writing.  He has the intelligence and capability of keeping tables of one, two and 20 happy.  Jake’s knowledge of the food and spirits has a depth way beyond his years, and he knows his way around all the flavorful local craft beers on tap, and fine wines by the bottle or by the glass.

Jacob guided the way through a sampler meal, starting with a lobster Bisque, creamy and rich, and just enough of it in a small bowl, accompanied by a light Pinot Grigio (Tamas Estates, California). The Spinach & Artichoke Dip with Grilled Pita Chips and Shaved Regianno, had the twist of Tomato & Onion.

 

Lobster Bisque

Spinach & Artichoke Dip

The Top Sirloin, 9 oz. Prime, local Harris Ranch, served with perfectly cooked small Roasted Potatoes and beautiful haricot vert was perfection.  The accompanying Cabernet Sauvignon (14 Hands, Washington) brought out even more of the flavor.

 

A Warm Caramel Slide Dessert finished up the meal, along with a promise to walk an mile the next day. The blonde brownie with Fosselman’s vanilla ice cream and whipped cream was pure decadence, made even more self-indulgent with a side taste of the kitchen’s homemade hot fudge, and a Macallan scotch.

 

The resort contains 250 two-room suites in subtle neutrals with the most glorious firm beds. Each guest suite is divided into private bedroom/bath and living area with its own sofa bed, armchair, well-lit dining/work table, 1/2 bath, hair dryers, MP3 clock radio, two televisions, two dual-line phones, high-speed Internet access, a wet bar, mini-refrigerator, microwave oven, and an iron and ironing board.

 

Sweet Suite

The list of additional onsite amenities includes two whirlpools, a basic workout room, lighted tennis courts, business center and Wheel Run Rentals.  Sports and touring activities are available only a few miles away, including surfing, kayaking and tours of the spectacular Channel Island by way of boat.

Embassy Suites Hotels, a Hilton property, earned the Parents magazine’s 10 Best Hotel Chains for Families.  Special hotel packages are offered during the year.  For more information, please visit www.embassysuites.com.

The Embassy Suites Hotel grew up into a resort. And maybe that’s why the longing for it as soon as you leave has grown along with it.

Family Affair at Mahan Indian in Alhambra

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Mahan (pronounced Mah-hahn) Indian Restaurant aptly the magical name, “Alhambra” as its address.  The spare, long, dusky double-long interior with the buffet layout and bar in one corner, ample space between tables and a tidy feeling reflects both the fine dining background of Delhi born and bred owner, Anil Sharma, and the local well-manicured Spanish architecture shaded by trees.  The only Indian restaurant in this Chinese and Japanese neighborhood, Mahan draws locals of all nationalities.  //www.mahan.com

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Samosa chaat, shows how Mahan takes a dish to a new level.  Here the kitchen splits the potato-stuffed patty in two and placed on a bed of chickpea curry, Raita (yogurt), tamarind chutneys and mint and a shake or two of chaat masala mixture.

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Representative of why is Mahan’s appetizer Stuffed Mushrooms, uncommon on Indian menus pleases western taste with chopped mushrooms, sauteed onion and a gooey mozzarella cheese filling. The Indian sensibility comes into this American 50’s cocktail party favorite with a chickpea flour batter before frying, as well as in the fun, crunchy topping of sev (crisp Indian chickpea noodles).  You can see Sage’s squiggly touch in the tomato sauce plate decoration.

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Owner Anil Sharma is happily surrounded by family at Mahan, his wife, Poonam presiding over the kitchen and his son, Sage Sharma adding to the fun of updating their menu of authentic regional and contemporary specialties. On

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“Happy surrounded,” is in fact an understatement. The entire staff considered itself family and they eat together after lunch service each day.  It’s closer to “Fiddler on the Roof.” Anil positively beams when it comes to his family and it is the inspiration for his work. He even dreams about it, as he recalls above.  Mango Chicken, one of the restaurants most popular dishes, even came to him in a dream. was one of the delicious entrees we sampled. He relishes the story about waking up and telling Sage about having to make mango chicken!   The fragrant sauce is prepared with both fresh mangoes and cannedmango pulp plus  sweet mango pickle or achar), ginger, garlic, onions, green peppers, serrano chilies, chili flakes and sugar. Chicken Tikka is the last ingredient added to the finished sauce.

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The Mango Chicken is garnished with ginger julienne, which is probably an idea of Sage. Anil proudly told us that Sage updates him on contemporary ideas since he is currently enrolled at Le Cordon Bleu in Pasadena and learning French technique. “Indian cuisine is the best in terms of ingredients, he told us, but the best, perhaps the best, of all cuisines, but it’s not is one of recognized as such because French chefs, for example, do better at presenting their food.

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Silky,  Pumpkin Curry has become a signature dish with good reason. A key seasoning that imparts a slight tang to contrast with the sweet kabocha is mango powder or amchoor.  Anil worked months to getit to the exact taste he liked specifically for the Mahan menu after he remembered how much he liked eating it long ago at a friend’s home. The fresh kabocha squash cooked with onion, ginger and garlic and flavored with white and black pepper.

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Southern region cooking come with the ubiquitous Gobi Manchurian (Indo-Chinese cauliflower, a reminder of the Asian connection to intricate Chinese cuisine.  Cauliflower florets dipped in chickpea flour batter are fried and then heated in a sauce heating with vinegar, sugar, soy sauce, ginger, and for a pleasing touch of heat, chili flakes, chili powder and Chinese ginger garlic chili paste.IMG_6998

Tandoori Fish, such a simple dish, requires so much technique to keep it moist in the tandoor.IMG_6998

Also on the menu is Chicken Tikka Masala, 5th most popular dish in the world. What makes the dish unique is Anil’s particular account of how it came about in the first place – usually attributed to an accident in a British restaurant kitchen when a disgruntled owner didn’t want to serve a late-arriving diner. In Delhi-bred Anil’s version, the dish was created in Delhi in much the same way when the chicken tikka accidently slid into a creamy sauce. Son Sage explained that the Mahan version uses white meat chicken, the American preference, rather than the dark meat preferred  in India.

IMG_7014Unusual Naan versions at Maha are filled with spinach, mint, grilled onions and fennel seeds.  These are all beloved favorites of family members who were asked to make the decision.

House-made pistachio kulfi flavored with saffron and drizzled with rose syrup. Anil told us it was made of reduced milk and sweetened condensed milk and had ground and whole pistachios, and did not need to be churned in an ice cream machine.

Just barely over 21 years old, Sage also presides over the bar.  Here he okays Mahan’s top-selling Tamarind Martini made with French vodka, freshly squeezed tamarind, lemon juice,  Himalayan salt, sugar and a spritz of cayenne.  It is meant to be savored over an entire meal.

Mahan Restaurant, 110 W Main St, Alhambra, CA 91801, (626) 458-6299

The Pasadena RAYMOND Makes American Regional History

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Executive Chef Tim Guiltinan introduces his “New Summer Menu” with imaginative ethnic twists at the The Raymond 1886, Pasadena’s  historic Craftsman cottage on South Fair Oaks Avenue.  The nostalgic building, at one time a caretaker’s cottage for the grand Raymond Hotel in the late 1800s, is shown above.

unspecified-5 With this new menu, Chef Guiltinan also updates mid-century American regional classics which might have been served to the Pasadena families “up for the summer” from Los Angeles a century ago.  They would not recognize what was thought of as a child’s favorite lunch with the addition of bacon and bourbon.

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A  New Dessert Menu from brilliant new Pastry Chef Raymond Morales and”rabble-rouser” Maxwell Leer’s New Wine Program add to the celebration although one look at the true champagne goblet tells that Leer also respects the past.

Guiltinan explains that in his eclectic style of cooking, “We take our influences from all around the world.”  What ties his menu together is his attention to individual ingredients, making nearly all of them from scratch, including tortillas (Mexican), ketchup (created as an Asian fish sauce), Worcestershire sauce (British) and even his XO sauce.

unspecifiedSourcing the finest ingredients is key.  Pasadena’s Whisper Farm’s Aquaponic Lettuce with lemon dressing and smoked salt is perhaps the ultimate in local sourcing, the lettuce grown sustainably just a few miles away. Seasonally rotating Wild Northwestern Mushrooms are all organic with smoked vinegar.

The Quick Bites menu section features oysters sourced from a co-op of small oyster growers in Massachusetts, sold exclusively to the chef. The Raymond 1886 features just one type of oyster at a time, offered raw with a house made barrel-aged hot sauce, or grilled with a jalapeño butter sauce. “When I receive the oysters, they have been out of the water less than 24 hours,” Guiltinan reports. “We sell an incredible amount  because they are so fresh and so unique.”

unspecified-2Classic vintage American appetizers become streamlined under the chef’s direction with  Marinated Mushrooms and spicy Hand Cut Smoked Onion Rings.  

unspecified-3International ethnic twists show up on similar ones such as  the Sticky Potato,  roasted spuds in a Korean-style sesame-chili sauce.A fiery house-made spreadable salami native to southern Italy is integral to Be Calm and Eat ‘Nduja, is complemented with Guiltinan’s own Parmesan crackers.

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Ethnic techniques influence Starters as well, from seasonal-vegetable  to decadent meat specialties. One of the most popular items, the Tandoori Cauliflower, features a half-head of the vegetable marinated with Indian flavors, roasted until nicely browned and served with a mint-cucumber dip. Greek yogurt  accompanies Chef Guiltinan’s  Roasted Golden Beets along with organic citrus, crushed pistachio, watercress, and Greek yogurt.   Roasted Fennel Soup is made with potato, anise pickled carrot and pasilla-honey.

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Mar y Tierra, invokes a menudo-like stew with squid, shrimp & tripe, smoked pasilla, and a handmade tortilla.

Japanese  Miso-Sake Glazed Hamachi Kama presents an uncommonly found, tender and juicy hamachi collar.  Other Asian-accented items include Indonesian Shrimp and Little Neck Clams, cooked with potato in a broth of pale ale and house made smoked XO sauce, and Grilled King Alaskan Crab with a sweet and spicy Thai nam jim, radish salad.  The crispy-fried Japanese Jidori Chicken Wings are prepared with a modern Thai twist; caramelized fish sauce, mint and garlic.

 

The Raymond 1886 dinner menu concludes with generously portioned seafood dishes like the Columbia River Salmon, caught wild in Washington State, grilled with Maitake mushrooms, English peas, basil and a smooth potato emulsion, and the Pacific Lingcod is served with za’atar roasted carrots, green pea purée and black lentils. Hand Harvested Scallops are seared to perfection and paired with Chinese black garlic, quinoa “fried rice” and fresh edamame.unspecified-3

Raymond 1886 entrees make the mouth water just reading the menu, including an ethnic twist on  Roasted Duck, cooked with fermented black bean jus, smoked onion, grilled kai-lan, and creamed broccoli.   Shredded Beef & Layered Pasta is Guiltinan’s twist on the classic Italian Lasagna, here with wild and farmed summer vegetables and a goat cheese mornay sauce. But the most visually impressive All-American dish is the Dry-Aged Prime Bone-in Rib Eye for two, served with elephant garlic and seasonal vegetables.

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International influences spark Pastry Chef Morales desserts as well.   The exquisite  Peach and Destroy, is comprised of Fromage Blanc cheesecake, roasted peaches, charred peach and buttermilk sherbet, pickled blueberries, macadamia nougatine, buckwheat graham cracker and a variety of microgreens and herbs.

The Raymond 1886 is open for Lunch Tuesday – Friday from 11:30 am to 2:30 pm;  Dinner every Tuesday – Sunday from 5:30 to 10:00 pm and Brunch  Saturday and Sunday, 9:00 am to 2:30 pm.
For information on 1886 Bar or reservations, please visit 
www.theraymond.com or phone 626.441.3136.

New Zafran Pot Stirs Up Top Indian Fare in Culver City

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IMG_8985(Gerry Furth-Sides) Modest little  Zafran Pot has long outgrown its title of the “baby on the block of stars” (Venice Boulevard at Motor).  The are has been celebrated for authentic regional Indian food for decades with Mayura and Annapurna Cuisine nearby .  Owner-Chef Sneh Lata Gumidelli ‘s exceptional Hyderabad-style, savory biranyi ranks right up there with the best.

The name itself, Zafran (saffron) refers the spice that colors the rice in the famous dish. Nestled on the table next to it are Salan gravy and Raita sauce. This biranyi looks as if it is calming staring at the diners about to enjoy it.

The basmati rice soaks overnight and then is cooked on a very low heat.  Instead of the classic dough used to seal the pot, Chef Sneh uses aluminum foil.  In addition to organic, locally sourced ingredients, technique is key here.

Pumpkin seeds replace the more usual peanuts in Chef Sneh’s version, for example. After passing the rigorous Halal requirements, meats are marinated overnight in house-made  masala.   Unusual, enticing appetizers and dessert complete each authentic meal. IMG_8978Biranyi is to Indians what hamburger is to Americans or Lasagna is to Italians.  Everyone has his favorite – “the best”- version of this stuff of legend. Yet Hyderabad-style comes up most often as arguably the best in all of the India.  The key to the test of its unbroken, perfectly flavored long- grain rice is a historic slow-cooking dum technique in a completely sealed tub, plus the expertise in the seasoning and marination of the ingredients added to it.  

The history of Biryani dates back to as early as the fifteenth century when Mughals invaded India. (It only takes knowing they were descendants of Genghis Khan to get an idea of their power).  The word itself finds its origin in the Farsi word “Birian” which means “fried before cooking.” Improvised upon in various ways through the centuries, each region in India has its own distinct style of cooking, which often includes blending in local flavors.

Hyderabadi Biryani came to be so special due to a progressive ruler, Niaza-Ul-Mulk.  He not only introduced the royal recipe to the public, but started spreading it to other parts of the country, which in turn prompted local variations.

It was during this period that the famous Kacchi (mutton) Biryani was fine-tuned, primarily by introducing the technique of separately marinating the meat in all the herbs and spices before cooking it with the moderately done rice.

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Specialties are family recipes and popular dishes from different regions of India are on the menu.   Owner-Chef Sneh also knows what pleases diners.  When she cooked for a company that sold packaged dinners for families primarily  in the discerning Indian community, her food became so popular she was invited to demonstrate her work in several online videos.  She personally oversees every dish with one other cook in the kitchen.

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Chef Sneh may be the star chef of this little place but the beaming smile of her proud husband partner, Santosh is as wide as the room.   It is, in fact, Santosh who is from Hyderabad while Sneh is from Bangalore. IMG_8953The menu dutifully notes “it is cooked on dum for maximum flavor”  for the Hyderabad Dum Specialty Plate menu.  The list reads:Organic Chicken, Organic Lamb and Vegetable, all marinated in spices, yogurt, zafran (saffron).  “We put out the  Lamb Dum Biryani only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday,” Santoosh told us.  Word is spreading and already every table at Zafran Pot is fully booked on the week-ends.

IMG_9031The small menu mirrors the size of new Zafran Pot with new dishes debuted as they are perfected in the kitchen, such as Lamb Rogan Josh and Cauliflower because   Chef Sneh understands the universal appeal of flavors and textures.  Appetizers include crunchy Samosa and Pakoda.  Onions and a variety of  masalas fill the Vegetable and Egg Puffs.  The decadent Vada Pav ($4.95) (shown below), deep-fried mashed potato fritters inside pillowy mini-burger buns, just about make a full meal.   Add the snap of red onion, the tartness of lime and the bit of cilantro with it, and it also defines umami.

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Vada Pav hold deep-fried mashed potato fritters

IMG_8956Other Specialty Plates include non-vegetarian Curries served with White or Brown Rice or Naan ($10.95).   Locally sourced Halal chicken marinated over night is featured in the more uncommon Chicken Chops with gravy made of spinach, cilantro, onion and spiced with cloves and cinnamon.

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Khubani Ka Meetha with Ice Cream features Dried Apricots boiled in sugar syrup, served with ice cream ($4.95).  This house specialty is rarely found in local Indian restaurants.  The apricots are soaked overnight to remove traces of seeds.

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Zafran Pot, 310-838-2130, 10408 Venice Blvd. Culver City, CA 90232.
//www.zafranpot.com/
//www.facebook.com/zafranpot

Hyderabadi Biryani Best at Biryani Bowl, Fremont

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We were lucky enough to join a festive full house at Biryani Bowl in Fremont, California for week-end specials of the best world-famous “dum biryani.” the Hyderabad style means unbroken long grain basmati rice with seasoned, marinated chicken or Halal goat or egg … slow-cooked in a specially sealed vessel.  At least 6000 orders of this authentic version made from a family recipe march out the door every month.  And it’s not unusual for happy customers like the one  below to come for lunch – from Los Angeles.  This is one story of Biranyi.

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While chicken Tikka Masala (which originated in England) now ranks one of the top five favorite dishes in the world, but or Indians and those in the know, the choice is biranyi.  Let’s just say that biranyi is Italy’s Lasagna.  Every  family has their own  recipeEach region boasts a unique individual version. But all roads lead to the favorite of all, Hyderabad.  And recently, in America the road leads to Biryani Bowl in Fremont, California.
IMG_0406The perfect biryani calls for meticulously measured ingredients and a practiced technique. Rice is key. Long grained rice is treasured and the method used to cook it allows a starch to form around each grain so that it arrives at the table in long, perfect, unbroken pieces.

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Ingredients – goat, chicken on the bone, chicken off the bone, egg – are marinated and loaded in a pot.   The pots used to be slow- cooked over charcoal, sometimes from the top also, to allow the dum or steam to works its magic.   Today they are put on a slow flame for 90 minutes.

Then the foil is carefully peeled back.

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Traditionally , the dum pukht method (which translates as a “slow breathing oven in Persian”) is used to make biryani. The pot, traditionally sealed around the edges with dough (now silver foil), allows the steaming meat to tenderize in its own juices while flavoring the rice.

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Biryani Bowl owner and connoisseur, VPraveen K Suggala, describes the process preparing the long grain basmati rice as, “already having some flavor. So we take a large aluminum container with boiling water with some butter in it,  and into it we dip a cloth bag filled all natural spices and tied.  After some time we take clean rice and drop it into this boiling water.  All the spiced rice grains will begin expand but it is not cooked completely.  And into this container we put the choice of chicken,  vegetarian, goat that each have their own marination and spread it along the bottom.   After some time we take the expanded rice and slowly, very gently we shift it into this container and on top we put some butter, lemon, coriander and wrap it with a silver foil and cook it for 90 minutes.  And that becomes the dum biryani.”

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Other than the technique, spices are key, and they must be fresh, “not off the shelf” as we are told here. This is true whether it is a very limited use of spices while others use more than 15 different spices. Meat or chicken is often the main ingredient, though in some coastal varieties, fish, prawns, and crabs are used.  The meat and poultry are cooked with the rice.  IMG_0403The shrimp is cooked separately and to perfection with its own sauce on the stove.

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Dum Biryani is offered in Vegetable, Egg and Mutton that here is goat, Shrimp and chicken on the bone.    It is served with raita and a salon sauce in separate little bowls.

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IMG_0498The prized boneless chicken Biryani offered on the week-end, is also available for late night pick-up or delivery.

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Look around on a Sunday at Biryani Bowl  as the place slowly fills up with customers, a platter of biryani rice is on almost every table..  A line down the middle for pick-up threads through the tables put together for large parties,

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So are the Sunday Special Chicken Lillipops.

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Other specialties available only at Biryani Bowl are the Congura Paneer made with sorrel and it is the only restaurant that offers both Garlic roti.

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The restaurant purchases a supply when it is in season during the summer season and freezes it for winter months.

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Gulab Jamoon with syrup and cashews is firm and just sweet enough  ($3.53)

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No-Price Chefs Table at Six Senses Qing Cheng Mountain Resort, China

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300x170_Sichuan_style_crispy_sesame_beef_300x170In order to make their new Chef’s Table more “palatable,” Six Senses Qing Cheng Mountain Resort in the heart of China, recently introduced a unique concept for menu pricing in their Farm2Fork restaurant by asking guests to pay what they feel is appropriate for food and service when dining there. The Chef’s Table dinners, which present a communal dining setting for guests, take place every Saturday evening in the Farm2Fork restaurant.
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To prepare for the dinners, each Saturday morning after the resort’s Executive Chef Rick Gonzales has finished his rounds at the vegetable farm and confirmed the day’s availability of fresh produce with the local suppliers, he will devise a four-course dinner menu which will be written on the chalkboard at the upper level of the Farm2Fork restaurant.

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Come dinnertime, guests will share a long table where the food will be served family style. Chef Gonzalez will join the dinners each week to share information on the sourcing and inspiration for the local ingredients used in the menu he created and most likely share a culinary tip or two.

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“This experience gives an opportunity for guests from all parts of the world to get together and chat with each other over dinner,” said Gonzalez.
A typical menu may include the following:

Qing Cheng Mountain tea smoked local farm raised Sturgeon
Crispy shallots, green apple, garden Chinese celery remoulade

Hand rolled Parpadelle pasta
Roasted mushrooms from our hut, Sichuan sausage, wok-charred garden pea shoots

32 hour slow cooked Wagyu beef short rib
Sichuan BBQ glaze, wok-charred mushrooms from our hut, sweet potato gnocchi

Chocolate Coulant
Homemade Sichuan peppercorn ice cream

Manish Puri, general manager of Six Senses Qing Cheng Mountain, loved the idea of a daily fresh-from-the-garden menu and to add a quirky element, issued the chef a friendly challenge by opting not to have a fixed price for the Chef’s Table.

Manish stated, “We don’t want to offer a fixed price. Guests can pay what they feel the food and service is worth. Our reward will be the smiles, the knowledge and anecdotes that we have been able to impart and the friends that will be made.”

Guests wishing to join these dinners can make reservations at fbma-qingcheng@sixsenses.com. The Chef’s Table is limited to total 12 guests. Dinner starts at 7:00 pm and service finishes at 9:00 pm. Drinks and digestives are extra.

About Six Senses Qing Cheng Mountain
Six Senses Qing Cheng Mountain is superbly set at the picturesque gateway to China’s majestic Qing Cheng Mountains, Six Senses has created a resort to compliment the UNESCO World Heritage & Natural Cultural site at nearby Dujangan. 113 guest accommodations ranging from semi-detached suites in duplex villas with balconies and verandas to courtyard suites, garden and pool villas. Six Senses Qing Cheng Mountain offers several dining outlets, renowned Six Senses Spa and an array of interesting outdoor activities.

To-Try (and Why) New Food Products with Ethnic Pedigrees

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) New Food Products with an Ethnic Pedigree to Try range from pure Hellenic Gaea Greek Glaze to pure Virgin Coconut Oil  from the tropics and Avocado spray from Mexico and Not Ketchup created in Santa Monica by way of ancient China.Unknown-2

We start with Gaea Greek Glaze, crema di oymelo, the ancient balsamic.  It is simply the best on the market.  All you have to do is read the label:  “concentrated grape must, balsamic vinegar, thyme homey and floral honey.” Read the label of the same Glazed Balsamic vinegar at Trader Joe’s and it lists “syrup” and “artificial caramel coloring.”  The Gaea label boasts,”turns cooking into cuisine,” and it does just that.  Suggestions are  to use it on fresh salads, raw and cooked veggies, cheese, strawberries, meat stews, and cheesecake.  We’re been especially pleased with it on ice cream and on salads.

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Pitted Green Halkidiki Olive Snacks taste like the Aegean Sea, and are famous for their crisp flesh flavor.  One variety is marinated with Lemon & Oregano and one marinated with chilis & Black Pepper.  They are simply the best olives I have ever tasted.

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The non GMO olives perfect for salads or snacks or in cooking, arrive liquid-free for practicality, in an ingenious foil resealable package.

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Before I tried Carrington Farms “New and improved” Pure, Unrefined, Cold Pressed Coconut Oil I mostly used coconut oil (good brand) to put in my open bathroom shelf to gauge the real (not iPhone) temperature outside. (it liquifies from solid form at 75 degrees F and 24 degrees C with all health and nutrition properties remaining the same in either solid or liquid state)  It is was liquid, I knew it was hot. (Thankfully, the 1/2 inch or so this summer left in the jar stayed mostly solid.)

So it is not so much “new and improved” as brought back to the finest version its original state.  Carrington Farms differs from other store-bought brands, including the one at Trader Joe, because it is simply pure, unrefined, cold- pressed and 100% organic extra virgin.

It also differs from other Coconut Oils because it comes in a convenient liquid bottle form that can be measured out for cooking, sautéing and baking as a substitute for butter or other fats.  It easily mixes in smoothies, coffee, and oatmeal.  The oil can also be used salad dressing, sauces, dips, smoothies and to  drizzle over popcorn. We tried it on oatmeal and it is delicious.

However, it does have 130 calories per tablespoon in comparison to grape seed oil, which has 120 calories for the same amount.  This is “good fat” but still calories.  Honey (on our oatmeal) or even molasses is only 60 calories per tablespoon.

LCO_Ultra_PremiumBecause is it easily digestible, Carrington Farms oils are perfect to include in pre-workout snacks and provides an energy boost.  And it contains over 93% Medium Chain Triglycerides (MCTs).  The natural product is even a carrier for essential oil and natural skincare needs.  The oil retails for  $12.86/12oz and is available nationwide at stores and online at www.CarringtonFarms.com.

Carrington Farms is dedicated to providing the absolute highest quality products to the consumer in search of a healthy and long life. With a 16-year history of developing natural and organic consumer packaged goods in vibrant packaging, the companyhas become recognized by the health conscious consumer as the brand of choice in presenting products that are, in their words, ‘Simple. Real. Delicious.’

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The new NOT KETCHUP flavor, Cherry Chipotle is already big news for  founder-owner, Erika Kerekes because it is made without processed sugar as a result of Erika avoiding a potential type II Diabetes diagnosis.  The texture is reminiscent of ketchup, but the flavors are entirely different: chipotle cherry, blueberry white pepper and a smokey date.  The line of sauces spice up dishes from rotisserie chicken, grilled cheese sandwich, burgers and they are perfect for spicy, grilled sausages – and just about any salad with fridge ingredients.  I use it to flavor salad dressing with grapeseed oil and rice vinegar.

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This positive story is that it will be featured in the Dr. Oz magazine in the coming months.  It features the new concept of “no added sugar” to the sauce. Erica herself lost 20 pounds by completely cutting our sugar in her diet.

Erika is known as the writer of the  “in Erika’s kitchen” and for starting the first official food blogger organization in Southern California.

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For the story of NOT KETCHUP please see (//localfoodeater.com/erika-kerekes-not-ketchup-in-whole-foods-and-a-whole-lot-of-shelves/). For purchase information, please see www.notketchup.com.

Mayo3Avocado Oil Mayo and Avocado Spray Oil, made with 100% pure avocado oil are touted by Chosen Foods as healthy products.  Their Avocado Oil, was a “Best of East Press Winner” at the “Natural Products Expo East 2015,” among a field of over 100 products. Criteria included innovation, ingredients, visual appeal and taste, according to officials.  The Avocado Oil Mayo has a taste  redolent of homemade mayo because of the identical ingredients, with a kiss of dijon mustard and rosemary.

Avocado oil mayonnaise joins the list of currently popular oils made of grape seed, walnut, hazelnut; grape seed, toasted sesame and roasted almond.  I’ve reviewed them all, starting with grape seed oil, which I recommended as a sprinkle along with rice vinegar, salt and pepper to make up an instant dressing.  To my surprise, I eventually found myself preferring this to anything else because you can really taste the salad ingredients, and it is doesn’t wilt the lettuce.

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I was recently startled to see the spray on an outlet store shelf.  Like other treasured products I used to find there, such as  La Tourangelle Grapeseed Oil (sold in Bloomdale’s for again half the price) and St. Dalfour jams and honeys made with grape juice and no sugar (sold at half again the price at Gelson’s and sold these days  at Sprouts), I’m sure the Chosen Foods will soon disappear from the outlet shelves, too.

Turning Summer Salts into an Ethnic Party

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SaltandSalmon-300x201(Gerry Furth-Sides) Salt Rox.  If you’ve ever eaten food prepared on this absolutely beautiful surface that mirrors the look of natural pink quartz you know this is true. We were first introduced to this extraordinary rock at a spectacular party hosted by the  California Restaurant Association as a closing event to a food show years ago.  It was their final one and they “wanted to go all out.”  The-Worse-it-Looks-The-Better-it-Cooks-Salt-RoxGlowing, glorious salt rock-covered food stations alone set the party apart even in jaded Los Angeles.  The food stations set with the festive food by Ciudad, the restaurant at the bottom of the escalator, dotted the mile-long lush forested “secret” park right at the edge of  — peek past the “moving tree” performers and the stations came into view as you rode to the top of an escalator took your breath away.

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The practical idea, however, is to enhance and season food before and during the cooking process in a natural way. Salination is the process of salt attempting to equalize the sodium content between itself and anything with which it comes in contact.

Surprisingly and importantly, the flavor of Pink Himalayan Salt is much more mild than a processed sodium product. The quantity of trace minerals impart a mild and complex taste. 1.2% sulfur, 4% calcium, .35% potassium, 16% magnesium, along with 80 other trace minerals.  Salination is the process of salt attempting to equalize the sodium content between itself and anything with which it comes in contact.

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Pink Himalayan Salt has an extremely low porosity and virtually no residual moisture, thereby providing a small amount of surface area actually contacting your food during the cooking process. While the liquid content of the food does increase the salination process, the mineral content of the salt makes the flavor subtle and well rounded. The salt plates can be safely heated or chilled to great extremes from 0 F to 700 F. Salt melts at 1473.4 F.

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meat with berries still from the Salt Rox cookbook

An idea that originated in China with the first salt processing, Salt Rox is made in America by a small, family-owned company located in Central Kentucky.   These popular Pink Himalayan Salt Cooking Plates are the only salt plates manufactured to be documented as safe for cooking, grilling and baking. Salt Rox also manufactures, several different sizes of Pink Himalayan Salt Cooking Stones and Poultry Seasoning Eggs.  Pink Himalayan Salt Shot Glasses among their products. In case you’re wondering, shot glass carved of Pink Himalayan salt is in place of a salted rim.31o3yQyPHfL._SX466_

In the words of CEO and expert in the field John Tucker (Tucker), “Our goal is to introduce gourmet products that complement and enhance your cooking and eating experience! We invite you on this journey with us!” To back up his words, Tucker has logged thousands of hours in front of audiences showing people just how it’s done, is always happy to share his knowledge and vast experience with our customers.

Salt has great value throughout history and was a precious and prized commodity to most nations. It was not uncommon to find settlements in the general vicinity of salt springs, and salt was traded as a commodity by many peoples. Both as a preservative and a seasoning, salt is indispensable to great cooking. For more information, please see (www.saltrox.com)

Mark Bittman even wrote an entire book about Salt Block Cooking.images-2

And for a singular, entertaining and enormously educational experience about the history of salt, we suggest Mark Kurlansky’s book, SALT by bestselling author, Mark Kurlansky to reveal the long and intriguing history of this  to the household item. 9780142001615The only rock we eat, salt has shaped civilization from the very beginning, and its story is a glittering, often surprising part of the history of humankind. A substance so valuable it served as currency, salt has influenced the establishment of trade routes and cities — it was a surprise to learn that animals headed to the same salt licks over and over originated trails that became roads.  Salt provoked and financed wars, secured empires, and inspired revolutions. Populated by colorful characters and filled with an unending series of fascinating details, Salt remains a best seller.

New American Bear Paws: The Better to Shred You with My Dear

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Bear Paws are so appealingly tactile they look like a play toy although they really are the tool to help prepare American regional or international dishes.  They just about scream out how far we’ve come from a stick over a fire!  And of course they are “the tool” for finishing off perfectly pulled barbecue pork or chicken.  Despite their rounded, plastic “toy-like” appearance, they are extremely sharp and easy to grip.  They can be used to grip and pick up a roast before it even gets to the shredding process.  “Handle, transfer, shred” covers it all.

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Bear Paws make it much quicker to shred pork or chicken than any other tool, such as forks or prongs. The cook simply takes each “paw” in each hand and gently pulls the two paws through the meat.

bear-claw-meat-forksThe tines do the work gliding along the cutting surface  so no poking, digging, or hard pulling needed.  Shown above, the Bear Paws are so secure and efficient, the meat can even be shredded in a pan in the kitchen.  This dream tool for pulled pork or chicken not only delivers visually appealing, uniformly shredded pieces of meat, but the process also releases intensified BBQ flavor.

Award-winning Bear Paws earned a first place award of excellence form the National BBQ Association. They are made from a FDA-approved, proprietary nylon material that is harder, denser, stronger, tougher, more heat- resistant and will stay sharper in use.

The handles stay cool even when a cook picks up a piece of meat up to 475 degrees.  Manufactured by Bear Paw Products (trademarked) this is one welcome long lasting plastic item.  To this end, “paws” are dishwasher safe and come with a limited lifetime warranty. Bear Paws are proudly made in the USA.

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In addition to pulling meat,  Bear Paws are extremely versatile for all types of kitchen work, including handling turkeys, hams, roasts, large fruit and vegetables, as well as tossing salads and pastas. HTB13kMFIVXXXXXpXpXXq6xXFXXXG (1)

HTB1k0kGIVXXXXc8XXXXq6xXFXXXxAs shown above, they are useful for removing roasts or poultry from the oven pan to platter efficiently and safely.  And Voila! One piece also holds the bird in place during the carving process.

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Bear Paws  come in red, white, black aand other colors, and are easily spotted in their hanger container ($5.99).  They are available at select BBQ stores and retail outlets as well as Amazon.com. Learn more at //www.bearpawproducts.com/.

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In the “not necessary but totally fun product” line, The Original Burger Lift was created to keep the bottom of a burger bun as crisp and dry as possible.  It’s also in the “spiffy restaurant” mode and a sure conversation starter for home parties.  The Burger Lift is constructed from stainless steel and is dishwasher safe. The design is both lightweight and easy to grab, and promised to be sturdy enough to withstand the test of time. It is also available in plastic in a vibrant red color –Both styles are sold in a set of four. $10.99 – $24.99. //burgerlift.com/