Gerry Furth-Sides

Puzzle Israel Tours’ Native Global Cuisine Cookbook

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neshama yoga tour (189)(Gerry Furth-Sides) Chef Nir Margalith, co-founder/owner of Puzzle Israel Tours, is everything you would imagine a high energy Israeli would be.  “Strapping” is the first word that comes to mind. And it stays there. Of course, being an Israeli, Nir is also a veteran of the army with boundless energy. So it’s no problem for him and childhood friend, Guy Marom, to head up an “army” of fellow countrymen who lead tourists on “behind-the-scenes visits to Israel  that highlight ancient cultures and cuisines.”   At the same time the chefs are de facto international ambassadors for contemporary Israeli cuisine. “Israel is blooming with cutting-edge chefs and local restaurants, updating a variety of cuisines considered exotic and not commonplace in Israel,” he reports enthusiastically.

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The photo above and below are of a forest-cooking workshop.

Now regarded as culinary experts, Chefs Nir and Guy visit the US regularly, to spearhead Israeli cuisine cooking workshops and live seminars. This time around, Chef Nir was visiting the west coast to make an appearance at the Taste of Travel Theater and Trade show in Long Beach Convention Center Los Angeles. The idea is to showcase Israeli cuisine with demos of Israeli dishes. This time around it happened to be two classic eggplant rolls filled with minced meat and dates and gluten-free colorful tabbouleh salad. Recipes and photos are below.

Along with public appearances, the pair also seeks out places and people to host dinners – for 300-400 people at a time if necessary- as a Puzzle Israel Tours sample, while again showing off the “thriving cuisine of contemporary Israel.” Dynamic Deb Lust Zaluda, who lives in Chicago, was so impressed with the company she became the US Director Custom Private Tour.  She joined the chef in LA to scope out sites.

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We started the connections with Upper West Restaurant, Israeli partner, Elad Benisti (left). Chef Nir enthusiastically described contemporary Israeli cuisine, always a part of the tours, as “filled with our renowned organic production methods and innovative ways off using fresh, commonplace ingredients to prepare vitamin-rich and delectable dishes.” A bit disappointed to learn that many food writers are not aware of the cutting-edge scene, Nir is eager to spread the word.

2016-03-28 13.50.08This is also why he and his childhood friend, Guy, created Puzzle Israel. The trips may be a replay of my own first trip to Israel, traveling with a French group I met on the plane. We blithely asked for recommendations from anyone we met to get a feel of  street food and restaurants. For the out-of the-way and behind-the-scenes experiences I somehow found myself making my own Yemenite earrings near the Dead Sea with a jeweler in his shop after hours. I merely had to mention I wanted to experience all the kitchen and field jobs at a kibbutz for them to assign the rotations. Yes, I was lucky to be on the trip of a lifetime.  

The team at Puzzle Israel Tours enables every visitor to capture this same kind of experience by inviting them in at the planning stage. The ingenious method is so simple.  A  local team of insider travel experts find out visitor’s interests and ably curate engaging, personalized outings whether it be for individuals, families, congregations, teen groups or organizations. A trip can be geared toward adventure, history, voluntourism, sports and culinary arts. A variety of ‘active trips’ with health benefits are also offered , such as one excursion featuring yoga activities appropriately called “holy fit.”   The cost can be $4000 for a 10-day trip.

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Nir’s culinary inspiration is his grandmother, who was born and raised in Libya before moving to Israel. He was so impressed that he started cooking when he was 12 years old. In typical blunt Israeli fashion, his shrug was enough of an answer when asking about his mom’s cooking. He leaned forward, “when Israeli’s finish their army service they travel and I was lucky enough to go to India, Thailand, Laos, New Zealand- the cheaper countries, where I could spend a lot of time and really get to know the people and the cuisines.”

“So that’s why I created such an inter-active group tour in Israel where you can eat with a Muslim or eat with an Ethiopian, and the food becomes a backdrop to the cultural experience,” he explained. There are also updated blogs and cookbooks, Yalla! Let’s Cook!, for example, to carry away the experience.   2016-03-28 13.49.54

One of the most fascinating trips focuses on the Bedouins in the Negev. Nir becomes excited talking about unincorporated areas, one specifically that has as its one permanent place, a bus station!  It is a place where nomadic Bedouin families were invited to “settle the unsettled” with goat farms and vineyards. The eight to ten day trips that feature this startling place “feel very close to nature and the locals.”

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“Some nuts are hard to crack but we usually are able to pull it off, “laughs Nir. He recalls one grandfather whose family brought him on a trip.  He had never traveled outside of the United States, and was going to “have none of it” at age 65. “Five days later he was sitting and laughing with his children and grandchildren in a Syrian pool (built for officers stationed in Syria to relax), exclaiming out how he was doing things for the first time!”

With only word of mouth and online presence for the first time last year, testimonials on YouTube document the success of Puzzle Israel Tours. It backs a Chef Nir boast, delivered with a smile: “Israel has done an amazing job of becoming the cuisine to watch for culinary breakthroughs – especially the chefs who do different market to table concepts (see www.localfoodeater.com, TASTE OF ISRAEL post)

For more information on upcoming visits and information on Puzzle Israel Tours, please visit: www.puzzleisrael.com.

Recipes for Chef Nir’s “dishes in the wild”  demo dishes:

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Mushrooms Filled with Roasted Red Onions and Tahini

Ingredients:

15 mushrooms, insides spooned out (keep insides including stem for later)

3 red onions, julienne
1 C walnuts, finely chopped

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 400°F

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 T honey
1⁄4 C raw tahini

Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed

Sea salt, to taste Black pepper, to taste

2. Heat olive oil in frying pan over high heat. Add onions and garlic, stirring constantly. Add the mushrooms’ insides including stem and cook for 3 minutes or until onions are caramelized. Add honey and toss together for another 1-2 minutes

3. In a mixing bowl, combine the tahini walnuts and caramelized onions. Toss together

4. Using a spoon, place a spoonful of the onion mixture in each mushroom.

5. Place mushrooms onto sheet pan. Bake for another 10-15 minutes.

6. Serve warm

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Eggplant Rolls Filled with Minced Meat and Dates

Ingredients:

1 lb. raw ground beef
5 Medjool dates, pitted, small dice 1⁄4 t sea salt
1⁄4 t black pepper
Fresh thyme

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 450°F.

3 eggplants, 1⁄4” slice, lengthwise 1⁄4 C extra-virgin olive oil
1 red onion, small dice
2 cloves garlic, minced

2. Line a sheet pan with sliced eggplants. Drizzle with olive oil, and bake for 10-12 minutes, until slightly golden brown.

3. Heat olive oil in a frying pan over high heat. Add onion and garlic, stirring constantly for 2-3 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for another 15-20 minutes, until caramelized.

4. In a mixing bowl, combine the raw ground beef, sautéed onion and garlic, dates, salt, and pepper, and mix well.

5. Place a spoonful of the beef mixture onto each eggplant slice.

6. Roll the eggplant over the beef mixture and use a toothpick to secure the roll.

7. Place the rolls onto a lined sheet pan and bake for an additional 10-15 minutes.

8. Remove from the oven and garnish with fresh thyme.

9. Serve warm

Italian Pizza Maven Moves to the Suburbs

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Unknown-1Allow me to introduce you to pizza maven, Tonino Morra Is being honored by GOURMET magazine as “making the best crust in America” enough of an recommendation?Now Toto’s magnificent pies are at Tonino’s Place in Calabasas and in Westlake Village.

UnknownHe’s partnered with Tonino “Tony” Boniovanni, who adds his own family’s Roman-style dishes recipes to the menu.   With wife Linda, Tonino’s Place combines the  very best of Italian food in authentic surroundings.The Tonino's Place Special

Here is the story: A primal eater by choice, I would have had to live under a rock (or east of Lincoln) to ignore the culinary history being made by Ed LaDou at Spago in the early ‘80s. Ed, ever the intellectual, took pizza making very seriously. His pizza was authentic thin-crust Neapolitan style with scattered toppings, minus heavy sauce. Then Ed established his own fun twist of esoteric, contemporary toppings. I was hooked.

Unknown-2Why? I’ve learned to recognize, in this “best pie” accounting, the elements that make the crust softly spongy yet crisply charred, ever so faintly sweet, even more faintly sour. Not to mention that is requires a superlative and intuitive talent to prepare the handmade dough that involves secret ratios and rising times, maybe a special kind of flour and usually a searing hot oven.

With authentic Neapolitan pizza, the crust is thin and hand-tossed cooked in a wood-burning oven instead of gas or electric, so the taste is simpler and the pizza is healthier, even more so because toppings are sprinkled about, not “piled on.”

Years later I met Ed’s esteemed colleague, the low key, congenial master, Tonino “Toto” Morra.  His is also the stuff of authentic thin-crust pizza, with homemade dough, hand tossed Napolitana style.

Unknown-3Tonino’s Place is a plain wrap, food-driven place with practical prices and generous portions. Wife, Linda Boniovanni, is such a firecracker at hospitality that when you telephone Tonino’s, you think it’s a major dining establishment. Actually there’s just enough seating inside and plenty of outdoor seating for those who “want to eat it hot.”

Also on the menu: a Soup of the Day, Salads, Calzones, Pastas, Entrees, Paninis and a Kids Menu. Traditional Pizzas include the Traditional Cheese (18” for $16.95). The Gourmet Specials list starts with Tonino’s Pizza with Mozzarella, olive oil, fresh tomato, arugula & shaved parmesan; and the standard bearer, Pizza Margherita, (each 12” for $14.95).

Representative of the “Lighter Side” low-carb menu, is a succulent Grilled Chicken Limone ($13.95) with lemon sauce, served with sautéed spinach and arugula salad. Insalata di Pollo ($8.95chock full of chicken breast, arugula, celery, carrots, chopped tomato, arrives on a bed of greens with a simple olive oil and simple balsamic vinegar dressing to tie it together.

Warning: Even when baked as a loaf, Toto’s textured dough is so crispy and chewy (it has “teeth”) and full of flavor it’s easy to polish off an entire little loaf, especially with the irresistible authentic balsamic reduction dipping sauce. ($1.75)

Tonino’s Place, El Camino Shopping Center, 23351 Mulholland Drive, Woodland Hills, CA 91364, 818-591-0600 (www.toninosplacepizzeria.com)

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The legacy of quiet superstar Ed LaDou lives on at Caioti Pizza Café, 4346 Tujunga Avenue, Studio City, CA, (P 818-761-3588)
(www.caiotipizzacafe.com)

New SAFE CATCH Tuna Processes Mercury-Free Fish

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(Gerry Furth-Sides)  High levels of mercury found in common seafood dishes has turned people away from buying it.  This why Safe Catch, a new brand of canned tuna fish, based out of Marin County, California, was created.

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Safe Catch tests every single fish for their mercury content. Their mercury level is 90% lower than the FDA’s mercury limit, there is five times the omega 3s compared to leading brands and the tuna has no fillers, GMO’s, gluten or additives.

It is a hard sell:  Shark Tank this week turned down the company for an investment, saying the evaluation was too high.  Here is a detailed explanation of what happened: //heavy.com/news/2016/11/safe-catch-tuna-fish-organic-low-mercury-shark-tank-products-episodes-new-season-8/.

Fish is such an important source of omega-3s, and it makes such satisfying dishes!  The famous Tunisian Sandwich above makes the case.

All nutritionists have always agreed that eating fish can help the development and growth of the brain, keep your heart healthy and possibly help in the difficult process of weight loss.

I even started my TV career representing the Fish Association and salmon with recipes easy enough for “kids to cook.” Tuna, however, still remains easiest and most pleasing from the simplest to the most complex dish.

We tried the Elite Wild Tuna ($3.50 per can) , which is Safe Catch product with the lowest mercury tuna available in 6-packs. It was deep in color and meaty in texture (see photos).

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Safe Catch is also available in Wild Albacore, with and without salt. We loved the idea of having tuna sandwiches  prepared with tuna caught in Thailand and processed plus tested in California.  Here is the classic Tunisian Sandwich.
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Classic Tunisian Sandwich

 Ingredients:

  • 3 tbsp. olive oil
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 12 small yellow onion, minced
  • 12 small green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and minced
  • 1 (15-oz.) can whole peeled tomatoes in juice, drained, crushed by hand
  • 1 bay leaf
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • 4 (8″) Portuguese or hero rolls
  • 2 medium Yukon gold potatoes, boiled until tender, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 1 small English cucumber, thinly sliced
  • 1 medium ripe tomato, thinly sliced
  • 2 (5-oz). cans tuna in oil
  • 12 cup pitted black olives
  • 14 cup capers, rinsed and drained
  • 4 pepperoncini peppers, drained, stemmed, and halved lengthwise
  • 12 cup harissa

Instructions:

Heat oil in a 10″ skillet over medium-high heat. Add garlic, onion, and pepper, and cook, stirring, until soft, about 6 minutes. Add tomatoes and bay leaf, and cook, stirring, until sauce is thick and slightly reduced, about 3 minutes. Remove and discard bay leaf, season with salt and pepper, and set aside.

Assemble the sandwiches: Split rolls horizontally, leaving them intact on one side. Divide tomato sauce among rolls, top with potatoes, cucumber, and tomato, and then tuna; top with olives, capers, and pepperoncini. Drizzle the top of each with harissa; halve sandwiches crosswise to serve.

Sean Wittenberg and Bryan Boches started Safe Catch a little over 10 years ago. Growing up near Mount Tamalpais, Muir Woods and the Pacific Ocean, the two childhood friends and next-door neighbors each had a passion for the environment, ocean conservation, and healthy living, which prompted them to create a unique brand of canned tuna. Our proprietary testing technology was originally created with the notion of bringing it to the forefront of the big tuna companies and seafood industry as a solution to the mercury contamination problem; which is still occurring in our oceans today. The industry in general did not want to admit that there is a mercury problem in our oceans, and that it is getting into our food supply. So we decided to take a leap of faith, and combat the industry head on.

Safe Catch products were launched in stores in Mary, 2015. The founders were pleased that the public response has been more than gratifying and matches the company slogan, Eat Pure. Live Pure. In less than a year Safe Catch has experienced a growth in demand both locally and nationally.

Kevin McCay, company director, sums up the success this way, “At Safe Catch we are more than just a tuna company, we care immensely about what goes into each and every can; the product, the environmental impact, the fishing method, the canning and processing method, and the workers who packed it. We take everything to heart and truly believe that what you are getting is a can of tuna like nothing you have ever tasted before. We are truly humbled for your support and will continue to create a product that helps you enjoy.”

Safe Catch products are available in stores, on the company website and online at Amazon.

You can keep up with news on their BLOG: //safecatch.com/blog/

Recipes are at: //safecatch.com/tuna-recipes/

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This (whole) Piggy Stars in Hyper COCHON555 Fundraiser

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Ambitious fundraiser, Cochon 555 (“5 chefs, 5 pigs, 5 winemakers”), trumpets itself as a national ten-city tour as “North America’s most talked about culinary competition.”

The one-of-a-kind stand-up tasting reception features five local celebrity chefs cooking five heritage breed pigs in a fierce but friendly competition for the Piggy Bank cause. Guests vote for the best bite of the day and the winner goes on to the nationals.

IMG_6253The buzz was electrifying.  Guests surrounding me gleefully followed the instructions “to enjoy,” compared notes and shared dishes, even if only for the  few minute respite in between the 100 bites.  We seemed to be happily following a recent Whole Food sign blessing this endeavor.  It read, “EAT GOOD FATS.”  And, after all, we were burning calories by standing and walking the whole party.

What is so special about the event is that it is themed, and that top chefs in the city have fun but take seriously the  competition and go all-out with an glorious variety of dishes.  The pig-loving crowd feels like a bunch of IMG_6339conspirators out to have a blast with the absolutely top-notch versions of their favorite animal, THE PIG.   And it brought together esteemed chefs and their friends.  Below is Chef Nick Shipp and his wife, and Brooke Williamson and her husband.  Nick’s email is” “bacon-wrapped chef.”   Chef Nick was at the event to cheer on his good friend, Bruce Kalman.

IMG_6343Personable returning champion Chef Walter Manzke of Republique was crowned the Prince of Porc. Chef Walter will go on to represent Los Angeles against the other nine cities’ winners in Grand Cochon at Snowmass / Aspen for the title of 2016 King or Queen of Porc and the grand prize, a four-day wine experience in Rioja, Spain’s most prominent wine region.

This year’s competing chefs included Carlos Salgado of Taco Maria, Bruce Kalman of Union, Jason Neroni of Rose Cafe, Brooke Williamson of Playa Provisions and Chef Manzke. The chefs prepared show-stopping dishes using whole heritage-breed pigs from family farms in a head to tail showcase for a crowd of pork-loving gourmands. Chef Walter won the event with a Berkshire breed of pig raised by Cook Family Farm. This breed originates from Britain and is the most popular of the heritage breeds because of it’s intramuscular marbling. Yielding a brighter pork than most and featuring a thick, delicious fat cap, the meat is sweet and creamy with hints of nuttiness, which worked in tandem with Chef Walter’s winning menu of five uniquely created delicious bites. Dishes included Pork Tartare: Black River Caviar & Potato Chips, Vietnamese Salad: Pigs Ear & Belly, Polito Farms Citrus, Cuban Sandwich: Braised Pork, Cured Ham, Mojo & Dijon, Pork “Torte Gibier:” Blood Sauce, and to close, Pork Foot Mantou Bread: Condensed Milk & Chili.

This year’s judges included Mary Pelentay of Le Cordon Bleu College, “2015 NYC Prince of Porc” Francis Derby of The Cannibal, Cristiano Creminelli of Creminelli, “2014 King of Porc” Ray Garcia of Broken Spanish and BS Taqueria, Ben Ford of Ford’s Filling Station, Micah Wexler of Wexler’s Deli, Peter Cheng of The Offalo, Lesley Balla of Zagat and Angeleno, Chef Joshua Whigham, Maximillian Chow of Mr. Chow, Rory Herman of Barrel & Ashes, Oliver Quignon of Viceroy Beverly Hills, Sean Dent of SITK, Ellen Bennett of Hedley & Bennett, and new this year, the five Sommeliers in the Somm Smackdown included; Nathaniel Munoz of Rose Cafe, Fahara Zamorano of Viviane, Phillip Dunn of Spago, Jared Hooper of Faith and Flower and Sarah Clark of Mozza helped select the winner.

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Republique Restaurant’s Chef Walter Manzke,  with his pastry chef wife and little boy Nico to help him at the tables, retained his local  title. 

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The auction for heritage pork and pork-related products (that somehow included spirits) was as exuberant as the event itself, and somehow included spirits along with entire animal sides.  The MC really hosted the afternoon with continuous coverage that gave the event a cohesive feel.IMG_6313  So, true to its billing, the seven-year-old flagship tour, touting itself as “the world’s first environmentally conscious nose-to-tail pig competition celebrating fine-dining,” lived up to its word.

Although 36 dishes definitely provided enough food to go around for two entire days (I found containers in my purse today from chefs who lovingly offered dishes at the end of the afternoon), this event presented a varied, gourmet introduction to heritage pork dishes.

The five chefs prepared a maximum of six dishes from one whole hog each in a competition for hungry gourmands (the right term) and celebrated judges. Competing chefs include Brooke Williamson of Playa Provision, Jason Neroni of Rose Cafe, Bruce Kalman of Union, Carlos Salgado of Taco Maria, and returning champion Walter Manzke of Republique.

The stage was set at the Viceroy near the beach.  As heavenly smells wafted in from the pool area where  chefs cooked outside, guests entered the first,  darkish, reception room.  As if  the completed 36 competition dishes at this “fairy-tale” pig event were not enough,  attendees upon arrival were treated to an array of refined cures from Creminelli Fine Meats, the TarTare Bar with Creekstone Farms“Luxe Butter Bar” with Antica Napa Valley, the Artisan Cheese Bar featuring Cypress Grove Chèvre (I never saw so much Humboldt Fog Cheese outside of Whole Foods), Coach Farm, Parrano and DTLA Cheese, California Olive Ranch and the Seafood Shelf featuring Rappahannock River Oysters from Watergrill.IMG_6240IMG_6241

Next up, if you needed a glass, this task took you into a winding path outside near the pool — still with chefs cooking and the MC calling out the event –into a second “outdoor”room surrounded by ficus-tree walls. Whether you wanted a straight shot of  hand-crafted luxury tequila from Don Julio or a freshly prepared Margarita, the crew was more than happy to oblige.

IMG_6245Finally the crowd entered the pool area.  Fancy white covered food booths resembling cabanas were scattered about the area with an inviting sign to “Meet the CHEFS & their PIGS.”  Chef Brooke Williamson’s beautiful smiling face was nearest.  She was working with RED WATTLE pork from Rainbow Ranch, originating in New Caledonia, a French Island in the South Pacific.  Sliders had a hearty but tender, almost beefy taste for which they are known I later read. At this hungry beginning, the guest next to me asked if the bacon decoration was edible (top right corner of lower right image)!   Brooke’s cotton candy on a stick with a shredded pork filling happily ended the menu.   IMG_6315

IMG_6248IMG_6331To the right, the station of gentrified Rose Cafe Executive Chef-Partner, Jason Neroni, offered such startling, diverse dishes as double ramen, an insanely rich yet delicate broth with pork fat, spring garlic, fermented turnips, poached belly and noodles (my favorite bite shown at the bottom here) and a lasagna with fennel and pork sumo, porcini jus, stuffed trotter terrine with foil gras, black truffles, cognac soaked morels (below left).IMG_6261 IMG_6260The bold middle dish below is roasted pork meatballs with smoked burrata, chicharrones, tomato marmalade.  Always serious, Neroni barely had a second to look up.

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Across the way, popular Bruce Kalman from Union Restaurant was having a good time.

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Returning champion, Republique’s Walter Manzke’s staff spread out over six working tables, with dishes that could not seem to be replenished fast enough.  Chef has plenty of help from his talented pastry chef wife, Margarita and four-year-old son, Nico.IMG_6321 Pork Tartare with Black River Caviar on a potato chip; a Cuban Sandwich with braised Pork, Cured ham, Mojo and Dijon, and a Pork “Torte Gibier” with Blood Sauce (shown above). 

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Chef Walter, The winning “Prince of Porc,”  of the regional event goes on to compete for the national title of “King or Queen of Porc” at Grand Cochon, the tour finale, held at the Viceroy in Snowmass / Aspen on June 18th.

IMG_6353Below, elegant Taco Mari Chef, Carlos Salgado, prepared Corazon Asado with torpedo onions, cara cara oranges and serrano, working with Red Wattle from Walnut Keep.

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Voters were handed a PIGGY button and a ticket to vote at a table with the chef’s photos.IMG_6253One of the most fun parts of the event was the “auction” with packages to-go of heritage breed pork at the Pop-Up Butcher Shop, a retail fundraiser for Piggy Bank with the support of Williams-Sonoma and Hedley & Bennett.  IMG_6316IMG_6306Many of the donated items were the generous gift of sponsor Williams-Sonoma.  By this time the crowd was so thick you could only hear the auctioneer add more and more to each package in the 100’s of dollars – all the money to go to donations.

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National sponsoring wineries offered boutique wines and culinary cocktails to pair with the delicious bites. Judging from the event at the Viceroy on Sunday, if there is a way to overdose on pork dishes, the guests were determined to do it.  The mood was of one of refined “collaborators”  guests offered the opportunity to feast on gourmet versions of pork, and there was a smile on every face.

IMG_6332The beverage program included Cochon555’s Punch Kings local barkeep competition featuring Breckenridge Distillery.

It really didn’t take the program to announce, “Wine tastings are back in a big way in 2016 with the ‘Five Winemakers’ ” because this crowd welcomed everything in sight.  Wines included Paul Draper (Ridge Wines), Rajat Parr (Sandhi Wines), Abe Schoener (Scholium Project), Jeff Pisoni (Pisoni Vineyards), Pax Mahle (Pax Wine Cellars) and special guest Matt Courtney of Arista Winery, a spotlight Sommelier Smackdown, Michael Mondavi Family Estates, Wines from Rioja, Tenuta Sassoregale and Azzurro Wine Company.

Pork was even creatively, lovingly infused into the sprits. The 1942 and the mobile Heritage Rum Cart featured Rhum Clément and Plantation Rum. Bourbon lovers were greeted with the “Perfect Manhattan” featuring Eagle Rare and Buffalo Trace finished with Luxardo cherries.  A Smoked Old Fashioned featured Breckenridge Bourbon with the support of Pierre Ferrand Dry Curacao.

“I’m excited about all the new partners in 2016 who support family farming and independent business,” reported founder Brady Lowe.  “The Cochon555 Tour is now a movement, from hosting celebrated culinary events and dinners all over North America to reaching a global audience with the news of the first open-source agricultural model. The tour is dedicated to helping family farmers succeed, period,” he added.  “Together, with some of the best chefs and partners in hospitality, we amplify the conservation of heritage pork once again, which for many is a ‘gateway’ to a larger appreciation of where our food comes from and the people that raise it, leading to more mindful eating and safer food choices for our youth. Piggy Bank, a 501(c)(3) project of the Giving Back Fund.”

The weekend began with a pair of guest chef dinners to benefit Piggy Bank, with 100 percent of the proceeds going to the cause.  The dinners bring together high-respected chefs, world-renowned winemakers and beverage experts to create a multi-course, interactive dining experience where guests have the opportunity to interact with the participating chefs.    The series is connected to Cochon555’s annual rewards program which encompasses over 100+ restaurants participating nationwide.

IMG_6349On Friday, the Late Night Asian Speakeasy featured an all-inclusive feast paying homage to Chinese, Sichuan, Korean, Thai and Japanese after-hour establishments known to inspire great kitchens across the country. 

 

Founder Brady Lowe has a long-term commitment to making Piggy Bank the charity recipient of the tour moving forward. The Cochon555 tour sources 275 donors each year in addition to hosting dinners and other activities. Piggy Bank seeks to build a future for family farming with the goal of changing the future of food and promoting long-term farming sustainability.

Piggy Bank provides funds to raise heritage breed pigs to be gifted to new farmers and culinary schools, assist new family farms with herd development and help existing farms challenged by disaster. For more details about Piggy Bank, please visit www.Piggy-Bank.org, or follow @piggybankorg on Twitter.

And the next day for breakfast, the barista created a final tribute:

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Sabatino Italian Truffle Adds Zest to Global Cuisine

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) When we voted first-place for taste to the Drago chefs’ Mushroom Truffle soup recently, we didn’t know we could (try to) duplicate it at home with the new Sabatino Tarfufi’s new truffle zest seasoning. In fact, we found that the claim is true of

IMG_5890IMG_5886“just a very small amount elevates any dish to extraordinary” – from salads and vegetables to pastas, pizza and even desserts. That’s because the powdered “touch” is fresh. With Truffle oil, as with olive oil to a certain extent, the taste is different and kind of stale when it is not at its  freshest –I sense that so many people are not in love with the taste of truffles because they have only know the taste of  truffle oil, and not at its freshest – recently in the fashion of truffled French fries prepared with it in restaurants.  Even when they do like it, I’m not so sure it is the freshest and at its best!!   The delicate Girasol Restaurant carrot crisp, however, was heavenly when a little during of fresh powder was added. IMG_5834

Sabatino Tarfufi owns bragging rights to putting the first ever truffle zest on the market. The reasonably priced counterpart to freshly shaved truffles sold out almost immediately online. While a pound of fresh black truffles costs around $1,500, the zest packs as much flavor for only $13.99.

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Unlike most truffle Unlike most products, Sabatino’s truffle zest has no artificial flavoring. Over 40% of the product is made up of the natural flavors from actual black truffles, a rarity when it comes to truffle products like oils and powders.images

When I worked with Tra da Noi restaurant in Malibu, Executive Chef, Francesco Valasco, generously treated me to so heaps of fresh shaved truffle over dishes – coming in straight from the airport from the trip from Italy. This treasure is fragile! To give you an idea, wholesalers cover overnight airfreight shipments of the stuff with rice on serving trays and store them in a refrigerated room until restaurants open up in the morning for delivery, all done within 24 hours of harvesting.

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Chef Valasco created a $1000 pizza for the national LUXE tv show. The non-foodie producer remained skeptical even after the shoot that a pizza could cost that much – but it was true.  Sound tempting? Try preparing an Orecchiette Al Peccorino, homemade ear-shaped pasta, fresh peas and mushrooms with a dusting of truffle zest. The rich taste of the cheese seeping through the pasta is the perfect counterpart to the truffle.

At SimonLA, Chef Kerry Simon’s secret ingredient in his potato mash was truffle. He told us, “truffles bring an earthy, balanced flavor to the dish while bringing out its own natural flavors.” Because his truffle taste was fresh, he could claim, “people absolutely love it, even trying it for the first time.”

I swore at the time that I was so satisfied with the truffles I had that I would never have to eat it again. Wrong. FullSizeRender (1)What changed my mind almost immediately was the series of trufflepalooza – with Sabatino truffles – hosted by the venerable food blogger/hostess and entrepreneur, Erika Kerekes.  Sabatino Tartufi truffle zest also transformed this colorful Italian wild sardine salad and roasted brussel sprouts into very special party dishes.IMG_3899unspecified-3 Enticing ideas for the zest include sprinkling it over asparagus or grilled shrimp or adding it into a vinaigrette; buttered (healthy!) sweet potato mash with truffle zest and bourbon; a shake of Sabatino Tartufi truffle zest over pasta or risotto with a poached egg and truffle oil. For more ideas, search out maven Erika Kerekes’ own recipes on www.inerikaskitchen.com.  Below is a bone marrow with polenta dusted with truffle zest.

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About Sabatino Tartufi

Just after the turn of the century in 1911, Sabatino Tartufi was founded. Sabatino Balestra and his wife Giuseppa began in a small storefront in Montecastrilli, Umbria, catering to local families by distributing truffles, olives, olive oil and sardines.

During this period, in this part of Umbria, the heart of central Italy, people cultivated wheat and corn and their main food was bread and soup made with various pulses, not truffles. However, Sabatino & Giuseppa, certain of the extraordinary qualities of their products and driven by the belief that there was and would continue to be a growing consumer market for high-quality and fresh-tasting products, continued in their efforts to create a company that could share with the rest of the world the value and exquisiteness of the truffle.

Just shy of 100 years in the traditional family trade of producing and commercializing truffles, the present day Sabatino Tartufi, owned and managed by the third generation after Sabatino & Giuseppa, have continued to build the company’s solid reputation as the leading authority in the Truffle business. Today, almost a century later, Sabatino Tartufi is the premier source for truffle products and is the leading brand of truffle products in the United States.

Fresh Black Summer Truffles (Tuber aestivum vitt)

Season : May—September

Fresh Black Burgundy Truffle (Tuber uncinatum)

Season : September—November

Fresh White Truffles (Tuber magnatum pico)

Season : October—December

Fresh Black Winter Truffles (Tuber melanosporum)

Season : November—March

Natural truffles are black, brown, white or gray. They vary from the size of a walnut to a man’s fist. Bulbs grow from 3 to 12 inches underground near the roots of trees (usually oak, but also chestnut, hazel, and beech. The methodically slow and labor intensive harvesting process involving specially trained animals to route out the elusive fungus that can drive the price up to $2000 a pound.

Trained pigs and dogs are able to detect truffles with their keen sense of smell at their exact moment of “ripeness” underneath the surface of the ground. This is crucial since flavor is directly related to its aroma; truffles not collected at exactly the right time will have little taste.   The risk with a pig, however, is that it may devour the truffle, while a pat on the head and a piece of bread is all a dog asks as a reward!

Of the 70 varieties of truffles, 32 are found in Europe. Although Piemontese chef, Giacomo Morra, is credited with first putting truffles on a modern dining table, ancient Greeks and Romans regularly put them to use as medicine and as a popular aphrodisiac.

 Black truffles of Perigord, termed “the black diamonds” of French cuisine because of their network of white veins on black flesh, are the most highly revered of all – by the French. They require cooking to bring out their flavor and are collected from January to March.

2015-07-09 12.44.37To the left is a duck confit with a truffle “zested” sautéed cauliflower from Chef Josie of Normandie Bakery.

Piedmontese White truffles are named “fruit of the woods” or at times “autumn truffles” because they are in season from October to December. Best when shaved directly on the dish before eating, they also are considered the best, especially by the Italians.

//www.sabatinotruffles.com

Syrian SUCRE Sweets Parisian Ice Cream & Bakeshop

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2016-03-08 16.18.37 (1)SUCRE Sweets Parisian Ice Cream & Bakeshop with its treasures of Syrian-influenced pastries sits demurely through the archway from Souk Shawarma, it’s savory “big brother” next door.  And well it should — owner-pastry chef, Lauren is the younger sister of chef-owner, Andrew Faour, who partners with Chef Matt Carpenter in the venture.

The bold red walls of Souk,  photo mural with scenes of a middle eastern market (“souk”in Arabic) and the fiery horizontal shawarma grill give way to a sparkling white gem of a bakery and ice cream counter.

And there your eye falls on what appear to be familiar middle eastern sweets – an assortment of French macaron, Kataifi Greek pastry, cookies, Baklava, Madeleines and ice cream.  Your eye does not know where to look first!  Rows of packaged, high quality, classic candy bars and tins of candy stand behind There are rose water Madeleines.  The brownies are in the shape of petalled flowers and are infused with cardamom and pistachios.

The Kataifi is made with thin strands of the classic angel hair pasta- like dough that when rolled up resembles shredded wheat.

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But this “Kataifi” has the name tag Knaffe.  And instead of the treat being soaked in a sweet syrup, it has a cream center and shavings of pistachio uts on top!2016-03-08 16.24.09

2016-03-08 15.53.58The coconut macaroon is chocolate covered.  The ice cream is rose water flavor.

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And the shortbread pressed cookie is a Ma’amoul.  These cookies, popular in Levantine cuisine and in the Gulf countries, can be in the shape of balls or domed or flat cookies.  This pressed one was made in a wooden mold is especially pretty and enticing.  Ma’amoul with date fillings are called menenas, but this one is filled with a fig preserve!

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Each one was so unique and delicious the two of us dining ordered an assorted box to go.  Chef Lauren carefully placed the Kataifi in a separate fold-over plastic, with a very small plastic container of syrup.   I presented mine to a discerning Greek art professor who was speechless when she opened the box.  They are deserving of the term, “Parisian,” delicate, subtle and rich.  The love that goes into them is also very much apparent.  Brava, Lauren.

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SUCRE Sweets Parisian Ice Cream & Bakeshop, 1111 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 104, Los Angeles, CA  90017 (213-935-8559. Monday-Friday, 11 AM -9 PM, Saturday, 11 AM – 6PM.

Syrian Savories at New Souk Shawarma in LA

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2016-03-08 14.03.31(Gerry Furth-Sides) “Souk” (market in Arabic) is an intriguing enough name to draw restaurant.  What brings people back to the recently opened Souk Shawarma Cafe is the soul-filled food of chef partners (Syrian-American ) Andrew Faour and (Jamaican-American) Matt Carpenter.

Souk stands as the only U.S. restaurant where you can find wood burning shawarma over a horizontal rotisserie offering seven different kinds of shawarma including chicken, duck, beef, lamb, soujouk and merguez, as well as a vegan soy protein.  The partners patterned the authentic Middle Eastern cafe  on the casual strolling market.  They recently added to their evolving menu a house-made Aleppo-style and a Merguez Moroccan-style lamb sausage.

“Both Matthew and I each travelled all around the world, bringing back experiences with spices and pairings with us,” reports Chef Andrew.  “These new sausages combine our own visions with traditional preparations.”

The pair first joined forces to create the wildly popular Momed Mediterranean menu for Alex Sarkissian in Beverly Hills.  They then became owners of the own restaurant, The Pub at Chino Hills.  

They became a marketing force there, There they learned how to make unusual global fare appealing to a suburban crowd by making familiar ingredients more prominent in their menu descriptions, and by including lots of fun American fare (think, duck fat drizzled freshly popped corn).(//localfoodeater.com/secret-global-menu-pub-chino-hills/).  The lesson at Souk Shawarma is make their highest quality ingredients  affordable with counter ordering and self-serve side dishes in containers.

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Andrew and Matt describe  Souk Shawarma as being “100%  chef-driven
concept, our brain-child of two chefs who have spent their time on the line, in the trenches, working the typical chef 8-day work week with 18+ hour days.  It is the type of restaurant concept serving the type of food that we want to eat after a long shift.  It is the ‘perfect little concept’ that we always wanted to have.  It is our ‘taco truck,’ and has our heart and soul in every detail, every aspect, every recipe — with every detail pondered over.”

2016-03-08 14.20.26This time around Andrew’s Syrian background comes to the fore.  The “secret force” for the shawarma is a horizontal rotisserie grill which keeps moisture in the meat as it is being basted in its own juices while being cooked.  Chef Matt is happy because he gets to “play” with his favorite ingredient, duck, which stars on the grill menu along with beef, lamb and chicken.

Chef Roberta Deen, Capers Catering Owner and former Bon Appetit Magazine recipe tester, and I  were silent as we relished a sampling of the wraps and side dishes.   Each one was filled with vibrant, perfectly balanced flavors and the characteristic unexpected pop of the spices and herbs that Chef Andrew and Chef Matt became known for at their previous venues. 2016-03-08 14.04.04 The food lived up to the mission statement on the wall of SPICE, FIRE and SOUL.  Laughed Matt, “we honor traditions and we do this by infusing a new take on the familiar dishes and flavors of the middle east here.”

The descriptions alone are mouth-watering.  All natural Duck Shawarma ($9.99 for a wrap and $2 extra for a plate with salad), mixed with all natural hormone free turkey is marinated in Souk’s signature wet marinade and served with piquillo peppers, fig spread, oven-blistered tomatoes, house-made garlic sauce and Souk mix.  Laughs Chef Matt, “we have to mix it with turkey or we’d have a $30 wrap here.”  The duck leg and thigh are used for a more hearty dark meat flavor, and the fig chutney adds to the richness.

The Souk Mix is red onions, herb salad & sumac — an oil with a definitely addicting taste.  Uncommonly used except as a sprinkle on some Middle eastern and Ethiopian dishes,  it is a welcome addition here.

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The new House- Made Aleppo- Style Sausage is a Middle Eastern- style sausage made in-house with all natural, hormone free ground chuck and pork shoulder (the only pork product on the menu).  The wrap is served with oven-blistered tomatoes, Souk mix, muhammara spread (red pepper and walnut), Urfa chili, pickled carrots and roasted bell peppers.  ($7.99 wrap and $2 extra for a plate with salad).

2016-03-08 14.55.33Moroccan- style lamb  headlines the new  Merquez Shawarma, a spicy sausage made in-house with ground Halal lamb, spices and herbs, served with roasted onions, peppers, tomatoes, piquillo sauce and Souk mix.  ($7.99 in a wrap and $2 extra for a plate with salad).  Unlike most sausage, the Merguez Moroccan-style does not use a casing but is instead free-formed on skewers and directly cooked over the open flame.2016-03-08 15.10.44
The Halal beef Soujouk Sausage is served with roasted onions, piquillo peppers, house-made garlic sauce, oven-blistered tomatoes and Souk mix. ($9.99 in a wrap and $2 extra for a plate with salad).

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For the “Non-Carnivore” there is a chickpeas and fava beans falafel, crispy-on-the-outside and tender in the middle,seasoned with Souk’s signature blend of herbs and spices, served with green tahini sauce, pickled turnips, oven blistered tomatoes, mixed greens and Souk mix.  (The Wrap is $7.49 and the plate $2 more).  Shown at right is the Popcorn Falafel ($4.99), served with green tahini sauce and pickled turnips for a glorious burst of color on the plate.

Andrew’s words describe the idea behind the small, casual dining room as “Soul of the Souk.” The Arabic souk” is filled with “row after row of merchants and vendors lining the streets.  The sights and smells of toasting nuts, dried chilies, succulent eggplant, fresh herbs, spices of every color and texture you can imagine forming perfect, vibrant pyramids along the way.  The produce from the farmer, the lamb and chicken from the butchers are all on display.

2016-03-08 14.17.13 The sounds of the men and women bartering as small children dart between the stalls, laughing and playing.

“The intention of Souk Shawarma  is a journey home for those with childhood memories laced with family trips down to the souk.  You eagerly await the meat as it is shaved and layered into piping hot pita bread, topped with chopped salad, tahini, fries (The generous portion of Za’Tar Fries or French Fries at $3.99 with enough to share for 3-4 people, shown above , are prepared with Za ‘Tar and garlic sauce for dipping. Souk Fries or French Fries at $7.99 are topped with beef shawarma, feta cheese, harissa, green onions and pickles– a nod to the American bar crowd.  It is the perfect balance of timeless tradition and modern fare for those experiencing the flavor of the Middle East for the first time.  Andrew’s was to create just a small window into the vast culture and the flavorful cuisine of the region.

Andrew Faour, who grew up in an Arab household, where “delicious food was always cooking in the house” realized his passion for food even as a youngster – though never expected to go into such an uncertain and grueling business as the food industry.  So, after earning a business degree from Azusa Pacific University, he added a degree from the Le Cordon Bleu in Hollywood.  There he met teacher Mathew Carpenter.   Several years later, the two teamed up, witih Matthew as his co-owner and co-chef, to “create their dream culinary experience.” They utilized Matthew’s culinary expertise with Andrews business savvy to recreate a classic British gastropub with imaginative fine dining and high-end craft beers, wines and spirits at practical prices.

2016-03-08 14.31.53At Souk Shawarma, prices in the neighborhood just outside gentrified downtown Los Angeles are made possible with counter ordering and many of the side dishes packaged in a refrigerated self-serve  “Grab and Go Case,”  such as the Spicy Eggplant shown at left.

There is also a Vegan Shawarma made with non-GMO soy protein, seasoned with Souk’s signature blend of herbs and spices, tahini sauce, oven blistered tomatoes and Souk mix.

Also in the “Grab and Go Case” is a Greek Salad and a fashionable Spinach and Kale Salad (each $7.99)  with a middle eastern touch of medjool dates plus a walnut and herb dressing.  The Fattoush Salad has the characteristic snap of  middle eastern fare byway of breakfast radishes, cucumbers, bell peppers, green onions, crispy pita in a on a bed of mixed greens.

My Greek art professor friends tried Souk Shawarma on a Saturday evening.  Her comment: “I had Greek salad. We loved the food, didn’t like the plastic containers and the oil in the dressing was frozen from the fridge. They close too early but I understand they are not in a crowded area.”

What made up for this, and what tempted the group in the first place were the bakery goods next door Oh.  Through an archway from the rich clay and red-walled room of savories is Andrew’s sister Lauren’s sparkling white bakery of delicate, rich sweets.2016-03-08 14.37.04

Souk Shawarma, 1111 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 104, Los Angeles, CA  90017 (213-935-8373. Monday-Friday, 11 AM -9 PM, Saturday, 11 AM – 7 PM.  www.soukshawarma.com.  Follow Souk Shawarma on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

Know Thy Enemy of Thine (Global) Friend

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2016-03-12 15.42.27(Gerry Furth-Sides ) Already at the age of seven, after the kids at school assumed my mother, who arrived in this country on a luxury liner, was “a gypsy” because she had dark hair, some sort of an accent and was wearing a beret, I knew there had to be a better word for “foreign-born American resident.”

“Gypsy” was meant as a compliment to my tall, sweet, slender mom with her great cheekbones, but was an insult to her. In her family’s experience in Czechoslovakia, gypsies were anathema, and not very clean anathema at that from her vivid descriptions.

The terms “émigré,” “immigrant” and “refugee” are just as tricky. Not only are their meanings similar, but the implications of all foreign-born Americans as being of “the wretched and the poor” Statue of Liberty inscription variety can be far from the truth as well.

And I’ve learned that in terms of newcomers to the United States, it’s not a bad idea to be aware not only of social background but of the native country’s political history. Here is my story about why:

Blonde “Sofi” was my dynamic, driven Athenian friend, the force behind the restaurant of the same name in L.A., her childhood dream come true, and who spent a lot of effort launching my restaurant media career.

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“Defne” was my friend from Turkey.  Defne’s name nevertheless is a very popular one in Greece and means “Laurel,” the very same wreath made famous by the ancient Olympic wreath  to crown athletic winners. A calm redhead with a definite sense of herself, Defne had always loved things American growing up,  TV producer Def oversaw my cooking segments on a local TV show.

So, I cleverly thought, here is a networking match: two young, engaging, food-involved, generous young women from the same part of the world.  Both successful in their careers, well-educated, world-traveled and independent. Let’s have dinner together!

And so we wound up at the rustic, dimly lit Four Oaks Restaurant in Beverly Glen one quiet Sunday evening. After pulling me by the sleeve to her side of the table, Sofi ate nothing and stiffly answered questions while Defne and I valiantly made an attempt at small talk and eating. Then the two fought for the check.

2016-03-12 14.29.13Duh! If I forgot 400 years of bloody Turkish rule in Greece, a tour that following summer of Greek island churches with glass display cases piled high with the bones of adult and young victims massacred by Turkish invaders, was all the reminder I needed.

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Well, eventually Sofi and Defne became friendlier after Defne, always entertaining friends or visiting family, began frequenting Sofi’s, often hosting large parties and sending flowers afterward. After all, most refined Greek cuisine has Turkish roots, a fact I continually have to ignore with my Greek friends.

And that’s lesson number two: in addition to acknowledging what country beat the other in war, it is important to ignore how an oppressed culture incorporates the cuisine of their oppressor. Psychologists, of course, find that victim-oppressor characteristic quite common but it isn’t exactly polite to point that out, and especially not at a dining table.

For example, one of the most popular of Greek dishes is “moussaka.” For starters, the word is Arabic. It arrived on Greek tables by way of Turkish cooks “Basti” dishes from the verb, “to press,” referring to the tightly layered vegetables and meat.

IMG_6175Both Turks and Greeks claim “Dolmas” from the term “hollowing out.” The Turkish version was developed as a part of an elaborate, labor intensive “court cuisine”  of the Ottoman Empire before the Greeks claimed it.

2016-03-12 16.04.25Turkish chefs even use vine leaf wrappers around dishes other than dolmas.  One difference is the Turks have always loved vegetables, while for Greeks the opposite held true.

2016-03-12 16.01.40 Timeless Tastes, the beautiful, comprehensive book given to me by Layla, Defne’s sister explains how Turkish culinary preparation requires serving dishes hot or cold (not the Greek room temperature) and requires precise measurements in preparation. The photos of the Turkish dishes are from this book.IMG_6178

Enormously popular Turkish desserts in Greek cuisine are the varieties of luscious baklava and rice pudding, the Turkish versions being much sweeter in adherence to their principle of “eat sweet, talk sweet.”2016-03-12 16.53.22

Both cultures, however, have made an art form of drinking their coffee strong. Leyla, Defne’s sister who owned the luxurious restaurant, “S” in Istanbul’s Bebek area reminded us, “in Turkey we have a saying that, “A coffee has a thousand years of remembrance.”

2016-03-12 16.07.59Along with the tradition of dining on an entire meal of “mezes” (small plate appetizers), another commonality is their love of honey, with markets in Turkey offering dozens of different varieties of honey labeled according to the village of origination.

And both Greeks and Turks pay particular attention to where their water “springs” from, specifically the location of the body of water. Perry reports that the Greek penchant dates back to classical times and precedes the Turkish association by centuries!

The list is endless and changing.

But one final note: because they were both in show business and foodies and single, another bright idea of mine was to introduce Defne (Muslim) to Michael (Jewish with Israeli ties). Well, aren’t the Israelis and the Turks friends?IMG_6164

It took Michael a couple of years to appreciate this match but they were subsequently married and became the proud parents of a gorgeous baby boy. And wouldn’t you know? At the “bris” (circumcision ceremony) they served Jewish-American mini hot dogs and handed out Turkish charms to ward off the “evil eye.”

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Baja Streetfare Inspires SOL COCINA

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Sol Cocina decor – a darkened oasis in the midst of the noonday desert heat

(Gerry Furth-Sides)  The best indication of SOL COCINA’s  personality  was already seen on opening nights when the restaurant pulled out all the stops  — like offering a tray of tequila drinks as a guests greeting even before they stepped in the door.  The third location of this Arizona based company offers a posh bathing hole in a specially build complex of restaurants and amidst massive new housing to highly paid, high tech staffers working at new neighborhood start ups.  The concept paid off in a short time with these staffers headed to Sol Cocina for happy hour and staying the evening!

Even the menu is bound in rich, Mexican leather

Spunky, Executive Chef and partner in the SOL COCINA Playa Vista group, Deborah Schneider’s Baja cuisine makes a statement because is rooted in authentic flavors from her extensive research and work in the kitchen, and updated to include local, fresh ingredients. partner in the restaurant group, author of six Mexican cookbooks.  Chef de Cuisine, Tia Baker oversees the kitchen here.

Sol Chef Tia Baker

Sol Cocina’s Chef de Cuisine, Tia Baker

SOL COCINA’s Playa Vista boasts of a “naturally wonderful” naked guacamole” and a list of Margarita’s as long as your arm.  There is something to please every taste.  The jalapeño/cucumber margarita is spicy.   Bubbles and Berries, composed of muddled strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, lime juice and agave with tequila, Cointreau and a splash of sparkling white wine is, of course, fruit forward and sweet.

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The Chile frozen margarita, with a chile and salt rim stars at Sol Cocina

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The expansive restaurant has the room to make a mind-boggling array of ingredients to their make-your-own guacamole bar, including the unexpected to add to avocado, such as nopales, chile-dusted dried mango, pineapple, chipotle shrimp,  raspberries and blackberries and pineapple.

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naked guacamole at SOL COCINA

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An outside window counter is perfect to set up the naked guacamole bar at SOL COCINA

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The inside view of the outside window counter

As a paleo, it was thrilling to discover that SOL COCINA Playa Vista’s  barbarcoa in in a class of its own.

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And being a Baja style restaurant there are many seafood choices on the menu, including stunning seafood samplers, whole (!) fish, oysters, crab, shrimp, ceviche and more.

 

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(photo courtesy of Sol Cocina)

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Desserts are rich and often chocolaty such as the  dark chocolate banana bread pudding and flan. Along with the friendly service and elegant interior that seems to go on forever and grant everyone their own space, the festive desserts make Sol Cocina perfect to celebrate special occasions.

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Friendliness is key at Sol Cocina

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The private room at Sol Cocina sets the tone for the most formal of parties

Sol Cocina Playa Vista,  12775 W Millennium Dr., Los Angeles, CA 90094. Tel: (424) 289-0066.

Ten Best European Desserts Go Mainstream in LA

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12Jun01-163(Gerry Furth-Sides) Ten to try European desserts either on the way to becoming American mainstream or there already are a welcome addition to the “usual suspects” stuck on too many restaurant menus.  Even if you are not a dessert lover, these might change your mind; they did change mine.

Canales at Proof, Atwater; Bouchon, Got Kosher?Bakery sometimes.

I have tried them all over the city, and these are the best. A more objective authority than I, French Tart, described them at “magical French bakery confections, little fluted cakes with a rich rum and vanilla interior enclosed by a thin caramelized shell. The brilliant recipe was developed long ago by an anonymous Bordeaux cook…. then subjected to 300 years of refinements. Glossy and dark brown, almost black at first sight, bittersweet at first bite, thecrunchy burnt sugar canale-shell makes an exquisite contract to the smooth, sweet filling. One day they may rival crème brulee.” They are baked in special, difficult to find, tin-lined copper molds. Fact: They sell out at Proof by 10 AM and usually at Bouchon by noon. They are popular at laduree and Pierre Herme in Paris. In Gironde, a southern region of French, alone consumed over 4.5 million canals annually as long ago as 1992.

Olive oil cake at Saddlepeak Lodge and Dominick’s

This textured, light cake has a hint of orange and the cornmeal that is made of gives it a slightly crunchy texture. The olive oil makes it moist without being greasy.   The pastry chef at Saddlepeak serves it with drops of lemon curd, buttermilk ice cream and fresh strawberry slices.

(www.saddlepeaklodge.com), (www.dominick’s.com)

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Marino ristorante Ricotta Cheesecake

The Ricotta cheesecake looks “sorta” like the NY version but it is made in-house from a family recipe with freshly made ricotta, that lends it a more rustic and substantial feel, and dotted with dried citrus fruit.   It has two pages on Google devoted to it. Enough said.

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Traditional Moroccan Almond Macaron at Got Kosher? Bakery

They look like a winsome, round, cracked piece of clay. They are just big enough for one or two bites, almost stepping in for one layer of the Marjolaine with the snap and the uniquely satisfying taste of almond paste, just enough of the chewy quality of a cookie and the zing of a hint of lemon.

Chef Josette’s Mini Pastries at Normandie Bakery

Chef Josette intensifies flavors by reducing the size of pastries, including Opera Cake with its hint of coffee; Fresh Fruit tarts, German Cake, Chocolate Mousse Cake and cream puffs.    (www.chefjosette.net)

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Pastry Plate by special order– Modo Mio in Pacific Palisades

The Sweet Nuns’ stacked ream puffs are known as “religieuses.” The bakery’s original, classic num version are endearing tiny French pastries made of “chous” filled with custard-like cream. They can also be ordered in the shape of little birds and angels. Sweet NunsThis is a family affair Veronique, a pastry chef from Paris just happens to be the owner’s wife and by special order, she will prepare her specialties that taste like they come from the heart. In her words,” I just love to go into the kitchen and bake and bake and bake.”ModoMio30th-LR-9808-WM

(modomiocucinarustica.com), (//www.thesweetnuns.com)

Tres Leches Cake, AROLatin, South Pasadena, and Border Grill, Santa Monica

Another wife that loves to bake in home for the restaurant is at AroLatin in South Pasadena. Her Pan Tres Leches reflects her central American background, and it is moist, substantial and light (Three milks bread) is a sponge cake soaked in three kinds of milk: evaporated, condensed and heavy cream.   Mary Sue Milliken, whose heart remains true to her first love of being a pastry chef, has just done a new and springy individual, round version that is served with fruit.

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Vanilla Bean Trio of Triangle Scones at Starbucks

Corporate tried to take them off the menu but popular demand brings them back. The actual specs of bean in the vanilla glaze was what first attracted me to them in the first place, the refined, slightly sweet bisquity texture under the delicate gaze keeps me coming back.   My family friends’ 10 year old, I recently learned, loves them too and the three are perfect to share with one for me!

(www.starbucks.com)

Hot Fudge Sundae at The Ivy, La Scala, and Norm’s:  We bill this under “Americana” and because it comes as a surprise both at white tablecloth restaurants, The IvyLa Scala and Dominick’s – where price of a generous sundae is as  as surprisingly low as at Norm’s. The sundaes have real hot fudge, real whipped cream and superb ice cream (the Ivy adds a second choice of butterscotch in small pitchers on the platter plus marconda almonds and lets you “do it yourself” with three scoops of different housemade icecreams.   Norms serves a “schooner” that is as tall as you are and the hot fudge is real hot fudge.

Lemon Hazelnut Torte at The Annenberg Beach House, Il Form

The Torte is a pared down, more elegant California version of the Marjolaine, which has for me every single ingredient makes a cake perfect: layers of crunchy praline,  ground nuts and marshmallowy meringue with the added surprise of citrus.  How can you not love anything so labor intensive and difficult as its small layers with fillings of praline, buttercream, vanilla-rum buttercream and chocolate buttercream. The Lemon Hazelnut has instead lemon curd and buttercream, the better to contrast flavors as well as textures, my dear.  

I rode my bike six miles to and from the Rose Café to eat one of these beauties at least once a week or more,, and years before the pastry chef changed the shape from a cake wedge to the lovely singular, circular one. This chef worked under the incomparable Amy Pressman, Nancy Silverton’s colleague who was to be her partner at Short Order Restaurant. These are arguably the two most original and best pastry chefs to come out of Los Angeles.

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Mount Blanc and Almond Covered Cherry at Susina Bakery

Another single bite as satisfying as a big piece of Susina’s gorgeous cake, pie or pastry. The Mount Blanc is a third of a cigar shaped butter cookie, half covered in chocolate and almonds. The Almond Covered Cherry has a hint of liquor.