Gerry Furth-Sides

Japanese Soba Noodle Class at The Standard in LA

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Sonoko Sakai, with her deft movements and snowy white chef coat with bandana head dress  was already  a magnet for passersby looking in on her Soba Noodle Workshop under the strong lobby lights shining down on the lobby The Standard, Downtown LA s in the dreary, rainy Sunday afternoon propelling her unique Soba Noodle workshop , moved about hone down on a unique from the bleak rainy street outside with a unique Soba Noodles workshop.Sonoko Sakai takes over the restaurant and

Chef Sakai shared ancient techniques from her own Japanese mentor and culinary on the art of creating the perfect buckwheat soba and its deliciously rich umami dashi broth.  “I came along at the right time, He was a curmudgeon and pretty much no one wanted to continue working with him, or he asked them to go away.

Us students took home three servings of noodles to recreate your own soba masterpiece at home.

The workshop and soba supper will run from 4pm to 6pm and is open to the public.1277036228_c8640bc1e6

Sakai humbly describes herself as a “good home cook,” but she’s also a filmmaker, an author, and an amateur food historian who grew up in Japan, has lived all over the world, and is now settled in Los Angeles. She’s contributed to the Los Angeles Times for over a decade, paying her own way to Japan to research historic foods and preparation methods.

“I believe in preserving Japanese culture,” she says. “I grew up in the ’60s in Japan, when much of our lives were very artisan-driven. People did everything by hand. It was an unbelievably artisanal world and I remember the labor, what the food tasted like when people made it by hand. I remember the fisherman. It sounds like it was a very primitive time, but of course the people were very sophisticated, yet Japan was still very traditional. Then modernism came in, and things like koji were wiped away by the advent of MSG. It’s a chemical, and I just feel that people are losing touch with what is natural. I thought that I could come back to my roots and start to preserve my food culture and try to introduce that here.”

Tickets are available for purchase and will include a class and soba supper. 

In case you can’t make the workshop, Sonoko will be serving up dishes at the Slurp pop-up at 6pm.

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Sonoko Sakai Soba Noodles

Workshop 

on

Sunday, January 31

4pm – 6pm 

&

Slurp Pop – Up

begins

6pm

at

The Restaurant

The Standard, Downtown LA

550 S. Flower at 6th

RSVP: DowntownLARSVP@standardhotels.com

Inotheke Refines Cypriot Greek Home Cooking

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Ask almost any Greek where to find the Greek cuisine, and they will almost invariable answer, “at home.”  Carlos Tomazos is no exception although he prefers to share what he – or his mother when he was growing up on the island of Cyprus – prepared at home in his new contemporary, casual restaurant, Inotheke, in Santa Monica, now open for lunch (see //localfoodeater.com/inotheke-modern-greek-cuisine-comes-to-santa-monica).

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Hints of the Mediterranean Island, Cyprus, (Tomazos’ homeland) shine through each dish with bright olive oils, global spices and fresh herbs.  Inotheke menu dishes are meant for sharing. “I learned from the best, from my mother, laughs Tomazos. She also cooked at some of the finest resorts in the area.  But this is the kind of food that I would want to eat in my own home,” he laughs.  They are served on wonderful, homey enamel dishes, white rimmed blue, the colors of the Greek flag, with a cloth napkin matching to add a little bit of a plus feel.

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The Inotheke menu includes crisp salads; succulent meats and intricate seafood offerings plus updated traditional Greek dishes, shown above in a photo by Acura-Hansen.

IMG_4801The traditional  Greek Salad is an excellent introduction to a cook’s hand.  My Greek foodie dining companion, and art professor, was more than pleased to see a full piece of cheese atop the Tomato, cucumber, Onion and Olives, even more so when it arrived in the shape of a rectangle.  “You see in Greece there is such scarcity that restaurants much present a full piece to fulfill the size requirements,” she chuckled.  “Of course you crumble it up after it is served.

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A natural cornerstone of Cyprus cooking, seafood at Inotheke  shines through in dishes such as the Pickled Octopus with mushrooms, celery and coriander, so tender and so filled with contrasting flavors and textures it immediately a favorite way to prepare octopus.  In fact, at first we thought that the octopus was marinated because it was so smooth, without the usual tartness of vinegar.  We learned the octopus was indeed pickled in white wine with fennel, bay leaves added to the coriander.

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Fresh vegetables and earthy legumes star in many of the Inotheke plates, prepared with aromatic herbs and freshly ground spices,  Fava Dip Bottarga, a long-time Greek-specialty-influenced dish made with caviar roe that has become a mainstream specialty.  Here the spread is served with yellow split peas, thyme and scallions.  Dense, light Ciabatta bread sits atop the spread and soaks in the flavors of the spread.

IMG_4813Moussaka is listed a Chick Pea “Moussaka” for the health-conscious vegetarians in the area.  Ask for the Classic Moussaka and it contained the ground beef, Eggplant, Zucchini and “Béchamel” in quotes because it is made with egg yolks instead of the more usual flour.  It also sits on a bed of Tzatziki (yogurt-Cucumber Salad).  It is served with a side salad, rich in color and feel with red onions, radicchio, with celery providing a crunch.

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We also had a play on the famous lemon soup, Lamb & Artichoke “Avgolemono.”  Made with Fennel, Carrots and Dill, proved to be both refreshing with creamy substantance, possibly the favorite of any artichoke dish I’ve ever eaten.  And the bit of leftovers turned out to be even more when the flavors settled in even more.  It seems that Lamb with artichokes (with dill) is a very popular dish in Greece, going in another sharper route with finely chopped white onion and ground white pepper.

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Desserts rotate almost daily with Galactoboureko, Karidopita and Baklava on the list, which was offered today.  It was, to my Greek companion, happily prepared in the classic Greek style, studded abundantly  with walnuts.

EQR5NV9RIw4DCyO3-tJNuJ-z7Inrwe1PLnVLUq1tL14,pDsCQjwLfN50aaxOatmZQlOdjRu_zmVemi18H_NW6mwThe name Inotheke, translates to “wine case,” and  Tomazos will offer over 20 varietals by the glass, including whites like the Robert Cantin, “Les Pier Blancs,” Sancerre from France, and reds like the Salentein Reserve Malbec from Argentina, and a Wine List of with over 60 eclectic selections by the bottle, along with four rotating draft beers and 12 bottled beers.


Tomazos career prepared him well for his current position of representing Greek cuisine (see

 Inotheke is open daily for Lunch from 11:30 am to 3:00 pm and for Dinner from 5:30 pm to 10:00 pm. For more information or reservations, please visit www.inotheke.com or call Inotheke directly at 310.458.3366.

Chicago Celebrates Mardi Gras with Polish “Paczki”

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Delightful Pastries companyknown as Chicago’s largest producer of authentic Polish paczki, offers a different menu annually for Mardi Gras,  on Tuesday, February 9 this year. The family-owned and operated bakery and café will begin to churn out thousands of housemade paczki per day to prepare for the massive demand on Fat Tuesday.

Originally created for cooks to use up their lard and eggs that were prohibited during Lent, paczki is now one of the most popular sweet treats eaten to celebrate Mardi Gras. Different from a doughnut, paczki is made up of a large ball of dough rich in eggs, deep fried and stuffed with a wide variety of fillings. Each paczki is traditionally topped with a sugar glaze or dusted with powdered sugar.Paczki WHERE

The paczki reminds me of the Austro-Hungarian version of the doughnut, the puffy Fank, which also has no hole in the middle.  Fans is prepared with and without jam.  By coincidence, it’s considered a carnival dish in Hungary although at my aunt’s house, any excuse was enough to down as many as were offered.  They are lighter than an American doughnut and somehow crisper on the outside.  They too are are dusted with powdered sugar. Ah.

UnknownThe difference between a doughnut and paczki is in the dough. “It’s denser; it’s a yeast dough that doesn’t collapse when you bite in,” says Delightful Pastries Owner and Pastry Chef Dobra Bielinski. “One of the reasons ours are so good is that we don’t use any additives; everything is from scratch – flour, sugar, butter, milk and eggs are the base.”packzi1

This year’s paczki menu includes flavors such as Apricot JellyRaspberry JellyRose Pedal JellyPlum ButterFresh Strawberry & Whipped Cream and Custard Topped with Chocolate Fudge. Gourmet flavors include Passion Fruit Jelly and the new Peanut Butter Frosting & Raspberry Jelly.  Paczki Day signature “Drunken Paczki” flavors include Vodka & Vanilla Bean CustardJameson Whiskey Chocolate Custard and Moonshine & Lemon. Prices range from $2 to $3.50 per paczki. A full menu is available online.

Paczki WHERE (2)Delightful Pastries offers a limited paczki menu year-round, with the 2016 Fat Tuesday menu will be available at all three locations beginning on February 1. Sorry folks, but the paczki are only available at the Chicago locations.

About Delightful Pastries 

Delightful Pastries is a family-owned and operated bakery that has been serving delicious home-style European pastries, cakes and baked goodies to their faithful Chicago clientele for more than 18 years. They prepare baked goods and scrumptious pastries using only the finest local ingredients and classic European baking traditions, handed down from generation to generation. Locations include Jefferson Park, Old Town and the Chicago French Market. For more information, visit www.delightfulpastries.com.

Chao Krung: LA’s Historic Thai Restaurant

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IMG_4380(Gerry Furth-Sides) Chao Krung Thai Restaurant is such a landmark across from The Grove that owners, Boon and Supa Kuntee haven’t changed their anniversary sign out front for two years.  Founded in 1976, Chao Krung holds the distinction of officially the second Thai restaurant in L.A. and since the first Thai cafe at 8th and Vermont is long gone, it reminds the oldest longest running Thai in the city.  It’s is the kind of place where children of longtime customers are as common as the troops of employee ambling over from CBS Studios across the street.  Supa Kuntee continues to supervise the kitchen to retain the consistent food that earned Chao Krung their reputation.  Daughter Katy, who grew up learning the business first hand, now has three contemporary Thai restaurants of her own across town.

The Fairfax Avenue mainstay still features the original dark ornate interior, and classic Thai dishes with an annual special food event or two to thank customers.  Framed newspaper articles document the events through the years.IMG_4414

Pad Thai, Mint Noodles and Angel Wings, the whimsical and refreshing stuff of Thai cuisine was first to win over Los Angelenos in the late 70’s, and remain menu staples.  Imagine looking for the first time at a plate of Angel wings, a chicken wing that appears simply breaded and fried. It turns out to be boneless and  surprisingly stuffed with ground chicken, mushroom, carrot and vermicelli and served with a sweet chili lime sauce. The variety of flavors and textures carries over into the long Chao Krung menu, which includes sections of salads, soups, noodles, curries and desserts.

Shitake Mushroom Salad on a bed of mixed greens, including lettuce and cilantro, with slivers of sliced red pepper, dotted with small meaty mushrooms and spiced up with a Thai salsa dressing that lifts it into an more exotic southeast Asia category.

 Tom Kha Soup served steaming hot and staying hot in a majestic brass container that sits high on the table, holds Coconut milk soup with a citrusy tang from kaffir leaves, galangal, lemongrass, along with  substance from peppers and mushrooms.  It works for warm or cold weather.  The trick mastered here is preparing a thick, creamy curry, which means not overcooking the coconut milk (otherwise it breaks down and the oil separates out, making the mixture greasy).

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Crying Tiger heaped with medium rare beef, onions, coated hari covert, roasted red peppers that are charred in stripes to resemble the coat of a tiger and topped with cilantro sprigs.
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Pineapple Red Curry with Duck.  Chunks of pineapple in a red curry paste blended in coconut cream curry, Italian squash, bamboo, bell pepper and sweet basil.  The Thai red curry paste is what gives the dish a brilliant party orange color and flavor pizzazz.
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Eye-appealing Larb Chicken Thai Wrap is presented on a plate that can be eaten as a wrap or salad with knife and fork.  Lara is ground meat and here joined by chopped scallion in a spicy lime sauce and roasted rice powder on a bed of lettuce.  Sprigs of deep green fresh mint set it off visually and also on the palate. 
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The traditional Pad Thai (pictured at top of page) with rice noodle stir-fried with bits of chicken, shrimp, baked tofu, scallion, bean sprouts and egg with crushed peanuts.  “It’s very common on every Thai restaurant menu but not that easy to prepare, ” laughed Chef Sontee.  The variety of flavors and textures  are so universally appealing that Pad Thai makes the list of the five most popular dishes in the United States almost every year.

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Homemade Coconut Ice Cream, studded with rich toasted cashews, with sticky rice paste lining the bottom, elevate this light dessert.

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www.chaokrungla.com, 111 N. Fairfax Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90036, 323-939-8361.

The Incredible Egg in Korean Bibimbap

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Ever since I saw my favorite “bad boy” chef Anthony Bourdain make an event out of eating the novel Dol Sot Bibimbap on his TV show I wanted to try it. The actual name roughly translates to a rice dish served in a steaming granite bowl, so hot that when a raw egg is dropped in, it cooks before your very eyes. Add to this a server who literally cuts with a scissors what looks to be a piece of cloth that is actually a paper thin piece of beef.

The fun part is that the server always, in fact, does the final preparation, performance style at the table. He or she mixes the raw egg into the mixture of marinated beef strips, shitake mushrooms, spinach and rice, then anoints the mixture with hot sauce to the specified level of spiciness.

Since the granite bowl holds  heat and takes a good long time to cool off. Within minutes, the egg is cooked through. The rice that comes into contact with the scorching hot sides of the bowl forms a tasty crispy crust – a prize at the bottom of the dish. Even if you are not a fan of rice, and I am not, the toasted rice makes such a surprising contrast to the tender, marinated beef you don’t want to take a mouthful of it without the other.

It’s perfect for cooling down on a hot summer day or a colder winter one when you want a dish to stick to your ribs.

The Japanese add “Sukiyaki” to the name. It is well known in Japan as the “friendship dish” because it appeals to foreigners. Korean Bibimbap fits the bill since sukiyaki is defined by stir-fried bite-sized pieces of meat, vegetables and sometimes noodles and tofu. It is usually flavored with soy sauce, dashi (broth) and mirin and prepared tableside.

In the Japanese version of “sukiyaki” dishes, diners dip their cooked food into beaten raw egg before eating each bite. Tokyo Table chefs were clever to borrow the Korean self-cooked egg. Raw eggs have been frowned upon for years in the United States, with Caesar salad being one of the best examples.

There are a number of Korean restaurants Mid-Wilshire that serve this dish.

“Save the Deli” Book: International Jewish Soul Food

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) In his plea to “save this institution,” David Sax’s book, Save the Deli becomes the definitive account of delis around the world.  Besides providing detailed, mouth-watering descriptions of the food he is served in his exhaustive research – along with witty accounts of the folks who prepare it – the author expertly serves up its cultural history. As a critical fan of such memoir-histories, Sax ranks right up there with Anthony Bourdain (Kitchen Confidential), Bill Buford (Heat) and Mark Kurlansky (Salt), all books I highly recommend for gift or home bookshelf.

With Save the Deli I additionally compare his research with my own deli notes albeit mine mostly on pastrami and corn beef sandwiches. He includes the very same accounting of how pastrami came to America via Gussman Volk because he accepted a recipe for pastrami (noting the term “pastrami” as noun or verb) in return for watching the suitcase of a neighbor while he was traveling out of town.

images-4Sax proves entirely accurate in his passionate, entertaining and perceptive homage to the Jewish delicatessen. starting with a glowing chapter on Los Angeles family-run delis with a critical view of that impersonal deli corporation (Jerry’s) sandwiched into it.

Brent’s has a starring role (yes!), and Sax uses L.A. rye bread as a standard in this lively road trip that explores and evaluates deli life in the big cities, such as New York, Los Angeles, Miami; Montreal and Toronto; the unexpected in Boulder, Salt Lake City and Houston, and historic London, Warsaw and Paris.FullSizeRender 3

Sax goes so much farther, though, connecting the dots for me from the venerable Lou’s Deli, a treat we lifeguards casually biked ten miles to after work,  “now in a dangerous part of Detroit… where business is transacted through a bulletproof Plexiglas window” to award-winning artisanal Zingeman’s Deli in Ann Arbor, created by a fellow University of Michigan graduate.

deliSax can sum up, with cultural nuance, the history of Jews in England, Poland or anywhere, otherwise becoming entire chapters of tedious rhetoric in history books. His account of Poles in contemporary delis, vainly attempting to revive traditions lost along with most of the Jewish population during World War II, is memorable, bittersweet and heart-wrenching.

A Canadian himself, David traces his own obsession with deli  to family.  (his grandfather suffered from heart problems and happily died with a corn beef sandwich in his hand). His gives a lively account of the deli competition between Toronto and Montreal and how the scene changed after many Montreal residents, like his parents, relocated to Toronto.

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The basis for most of his ratings is clear: quality hand-cut and house-cured meats and bread, and keeping the tradition real. Yet David makes a story in the telling, and tells the story behind the story; bringing to life my own experience at the legendary Schwarz’s (Hebrew Delicatessen) plain wrap, sit in a booth for six-whether-you-know-them-or-not customers in Montreal.

Sax just gets it right every and each first visit, from a detailed, superbly crafted interview with Los Angeles deli maven Al Langer, of the hand-cut meat and finest rye bread toasted gently on one side, Langer’s deli, just before he passed away. It justifies my praise of the place which originally fell on the deaf ears of L.A. “writers” for decades until Nora Ephron decreed it the finest sandwich in the world in the NEW YORKER food issue.

images-1So. Sax’s book began as a lament for and memorial to delis, a long way from their start as pushcarts operated by Eastern European immigrants on Manhattan’s Lower East Side. You only have to think of the calories and cholesterol in this health-conscious culture! But he surprisingly discovered a hardy and evolving and growing, if struggling, deli culture. He concedes that “a new breed of deli” can “bring the Jewish delicatessen into the twenty-first century, while staying faithful to the flavors of the nineteenth.”

I open the book at random. Sax is recounting the reaction of New Yorkers (“by far the most traditional, the most stubborn, the most resistant to change”) to artisanal deli owners elsewhere. “‘That would never work here,” they’d tell me with a scoff. ‘You can’t cure stuff yourself. It’s too expensive. It’s impossible.’ But I knew it was only a matter of time before the deli revolution made landfall in New York. And last summer… I met the man who would make it happen. Noah Bernamoff was 27 at the time, a Montreal suburban Jew with fat sideburns, whose previous job was bassist.”

What didn’t I like about “Save the Deli?”?  There were not enough photos, and no mention of a TV series made from the book.  And happily, Jerry’s Deli was left out.

Direct from the Heart of France to Ventura, California

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71 Palm overlooking the ocean

The expert, loving care given 71 Palm Restaurant in Ventura is obvious from the thick herb garden (yes, they use the herbs for cooking) fronting the gloriously restored 1910 Craftsman.  At the top of the stairs is a congenial gentleman effortlessly welcoming guests with a huge smile.  It is chef-owner Didier Poirier – known affectionately as Didier  – who has managed to retain the authenticity and richness of his French heritage while becoming happily and successfully entrenched into the community. I was taken aback when he thoughtfully inquired about my eyes (recent minor surgery) that made me reschedule my Ventura visit; no detail seems to be too much for this gentleman.

Happy, talented Chef Didier

A plaque near the front door boasts that the 1910 landmark craftsman style house  at 71 Palm was lovingly restored by wife Nanci’s parents, Ernst and Lila Kuhn.  Chef Didier met his wife when she was in his cooking class – he was then engrossed in seeing the world and working in Atlanta, Georgia!  They moved back to her hometown in Ventura – “we needed a baby-sitter,” he grinned.  And Chef was careful to explain that he purchased the house back.

A Plaque boasts the historical landmark value

The effort to be family and pet-friendly adds to the charm of 71 Palm. The chef’s awards for his doggie menu on the table prove this.  Local artists also display their works on the walls. Dishes are named in honor of family and local guests.  For example, Nanci’s Fresh Beet, Goat Cheese, & Arugula Salad w/ toasted pine nuts & mandarin oranges is in honor of wife, Nanci.  Chef Didier honors his mother-in-law with  Lila’s Chopped Salad w/ dry salami, mozzarella, garbanzo beans, chopped romaine.  Prices are very practical and portions are satisfying.

The new doggie menu at 71 Palm

Fido Award

Where would I like to be seated? Inside?  Outside?  Although Chef Didier enticed me, peek into the second floor room overlooking the ocean,  I preferred outside.  Perfect choice, beamed the chef, a phrase that greeted every one of my choices, while he oversaw the staff taking care of tables of two, four and six that eventually filled the porch and inside dining room.

The proper way to try the French cuisine popped out at me on the menu: the Provencal Fish Soupwith aioli & garlic croutons, along with the Warm Duck Confit Salad with walnuts & raspberry vinaigrette.  For dessert, of course, the Tarte Tatin, was a must.  Turns out they are two of the most popular dishes.

The 71 Palm Provencal Fish Broth

This refined yet rustic Provencal Fish Soup was so extraordinary that all I could do the rest of my trip was figure out how to taste it again.  Once home I even tried to duplicate it.  Chef Didier would have a good laugh.

Here is the history:  when fishermen in the south of France returned home from a long day of fishing, they wanted to create a delicious dish without using the most profitable fish of the day’s catch. Thus began this simple, but elegant stew made with a tomato-based broth.  Your eyes aren’t playing tricks on you because the whole fish is sieved into the dish.  After simmering the local fish with aromatics, wine, and tomatoes, every last bit is forced through a food mill—heads, tails, bones, and all—for an incredibly lush soup, tasting of a beautiful union between land and sea.  The garlicky aioli and croutons further coaxes out the natural richness of the fish. What makes this form of a bouillabaisse unique is not only the selection of Provençal herbs and spices and the bony local fish in the broth. Turns out that the fish are added one at a time, then brought to a boil; and the broth and fish are served separately and then combined in a soup plate.

Server Tom was a hoot.  So professional and polished he could afford to easily joke.  When I asked if after his 17 years of service he saw more sophisticated diners at 71 Palm Restaurant, he didn’t skip a beat. ‘Oh, yes,” he answered. “And a lot more allergies, too!”

Effortless server, Tom, with 17 years at 71 Palm

The Duck Salad again showed how each dish starts from scratch and as many ingredients as possible are local.  The rich texture of duck, local of course, perfectly accompany crisp greens and other fresh ingredients.  The salad was dressed perfectly so that every leave was coated without excess.

71 Palm’s Tarte Tatin with Caramel Sauce, a la mode, was classic.  I asked about the ice cream.  Tom checked, and of course it is from local Challenge Creamery.  He then  shared his own favorite ice cream brand and their best flavors (mine too!) revealing a supermarket sale to me just in case I could stock up.

I sigh and look at the menu.  The Provencal dishes are all tempting. This includes the  Classic Bouillabaise; Frog Legs with garlic and parsley; Steamed Mussels with white wine and shallots; Hearts of Pam Mimosa, and Homemade Country Pate.   There is also a New Zealand Rack of Lamb “Provencal”  “From Our Oven” section.

Chef Poirer was raised in the posh Loire Valley, located in the middle of the Loire river in the very middle of France, renowned as “The Cradle (and Garden) of France” because of the abundance of vineyards, fruit orchards, artichoke and asparagus fields lining the river banks, to say nothing of the spectacular castles.  Historic? Its towns have been inhabited since the Middle Paleolithic period.

And this is only Chef Didier’s French childhood background!  We reminisced about the famous French  friends and restaurant work experiences we shared in Los Angeles.  This is an entire story.  Let’s just say  the chef prepared the last meal for regular guest of Ma Maison, Orson Welles, which turned out to be “his usual simple,” says the chef, contrary to urban legend.

So how lucky for us to  dine at 71 Palm Restaurant.  Chef Poirier brought all his marvelous heritage and experience with him.   Take a virtual tour for yourself at www.71palm.com.

Linger in the glow of the meal  even longer in a beautiful, meditative garden on the same block (front door store entrance, please) at the San Buenaventura Mission.  Tour docents there are eager to tell you the story of the city of San Buenaventura, Home of the Mission by the Sea.

The San Buenaventura Mission garden

www.sanbuenaventuramission.org

Andre’s Italian – First White Tablecloth to Go Casual 50 Years Ago

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Arrive 15 minutes before the 11:00 AM opening and there is already a zigzag line of customers forming, eyeing  new arrivals. The place does 800 covers a day during the week-end, and that’s a lot even considering the cafeteria style service.  The phenomenal host and manager, Aron Celnik is already behind the cash register overseeing the dining room.DSCN3930

Andre’s Italian Restaurant was conceived as a simple idea: provide wholesome and gratifying Italian food in a relaxed casual atmosphere at prices every family could afford.

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Born in northern Italy, Chef Andreone received his formal training at the famed Le Cordon Bleu culinary school in Paris, France. As a young chef, Andre emigrated to the United States and from the time of his arrival worked for several top rated dining establishments of the time. In 1959 he opened a full service restaurant named Andre’s of Beverly Hills on a posh corner near La Cienega’s “Restaurant Row.” It quickly came to define what is now known as “Continental Cuisine” The food was billed as “Continental Cuisine” at the, a phrase it seems was used for what we call Mediterranean today in order not to scare off people who might not be familiar with Italian food. That’s because when Andre’s opened its doors , spaghetti and pizza were just starting to become popular.

Chef Andreone’s eponymous restaurant was a huge critical and popular hit. At the same time he quickly developed a reputation and earned numerous awards for having the most reasonably priced good food in a full service restaurant in Beverly Hills.

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It was so long ago when a date took me to Andre’s fine dining on a date, then considered “the” place in Beverly Hills, all I remember – as though it was yesterday – was the ritual and what I was wearing (A “little black dress” with matching short jacket lined in teal, and high heels, of course.  But, ah, what impressive ritual!   First to arrive was the huge platter of antipasti— then a salad – then spinach noodles with red sauce – then the entrée (I’m sure I chose meat) and finally profiterole dessert, always on the house.

DSCN3771Chef Andre’s philosophy of providing his customers with value played a big part in his decision to open the more casual neighborhood Andre’s in 1963 and see through his vision of how every family could enjoy a healthy and satisfying meal together without having to “break the bank.”

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It did not bother Andreone a bit when critics began writing about the same quality food at both places with a major price different difference in price, with some patrons joined into the discussion. DSCN3919And he doesn’t even remember when one day about six limousines with secret service men inside converged on the Town  to clear the way for Robert Kennedy!

DSCN3914Only a gelato case (and recently an espresso machine) was added in the back through the years.  Andres at the Mart grew from a small Italian cafeteria to a sprawling double front cafe with ample  patio seating.  The place goes full tilt every single day with diners moving down a line with their trays at such a quick pace DSCN3762there is barely time for new customers to look at the blackboard menu over the set up section just inside the door.  There are daily specials (osso bucco on Tuesday!) and wine and beer are in the fridge at the front.
Watching the cooks with their efficient movements in the open kitchen are a symphony – and runners filling the huge pots and tower of plates behind the counter. And still offering very good pasta, almost all of it homemade in the back, and pizza at rock bottom prices. DSCN3867Since noodles are a mainstay of Asian cultures, Korean faces have popping up more and more at Andres.

Only Andres in the Town and Country Mart remains today. Andre’s declined in popularity throughout the eighties. A decade later it barely made news when it was sold to new owners who rebranded it as Andre’s La Trattoria di Beverly Hills but lacked Andreone’s skill at running it. A string of new owners and remodels later and the original site has become a rental space.   Andreone looks down, raises his eyebrows and shakes his head at the thought. He explains that after working 7 days a week, 12-14 hour days, and 40 plus years of property appreciation, Andre decided that he would be wise to rent out the premises and devote a little extra time to his casual eatery style 
Now Andre can be found every day (at least when he’s in town – he has homes in Canada and Italy for summer and winter) behind the stove and greeting his devoted customers – and making pasta in the back checking the pots he himself designed so they could be moved up and down on a pulley system.

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The family stayed in the business. Grand niece (He married my grandfather’s sister, Stephanie, told us that her dad, who had been helping run the business almost since it opened recently retired

DSCN3760The ghost still shows up on maps and restaurant guides as Andre’s of Beverly Hills even though that hasn’t been the name of the business in that building for more than a dozen years.

Andre’s, (323) 935-1246, 6332 W. Third Street in the Town and Country mall across from Farmers Market. Andre’s is located inside a little courtyard a few doors to the east of the Whole Foods Market, and yes, K-Mart to east.

(Savory) Domestic Truffles Join European Beauty Contest

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It’s truffle season, not the candy modeled after the irregular, warty-shaped little gem but the original with it’s very own unique flavor, aroma and story, now served in local restaurants.

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Natural truffles are black, brown, white or gray. They vary from the size of a walnut to a man’s fist. Bulbs grow from 3 to 12 inches underground near the roots of trees (usually oak, but also chestnut, hazel, and beech. The methodically slow and labor intensive harvesting process involving specially trained animals to route out the elusive fungus that can drive the price up to $2000 a pound.

Trained pigs and dogs are able to detect truffles with their keen sense of smell at their exact moment of “ripeness” underneath the surface of the ground. This is crucial since flavor is directly related to its aroma; truffles not collected at exactly the right time will have little taste. The risk with a pig, however, is that it may devour the truffle, while a pat on the head and a piece of bread is all a dog asks as a reward!

Of the 70 varieties of truffles, 32 are found in Europe. Although Piemontese chef, Giacomo Morra, is credited with first putting truffles on a modern dining table, ancient Greeks and Romans regularly put them to use as medicine and as a popular aphrodisiac.

 Black truffles of Perigord, termed “the black diamonds” of French cuisine because of their network of white veins on black flesh, are the most highly revered of all – by the French. They require cooking to bring out their flavor and are collected from January to March.

Piedmontese White truffles are named “fruit of the woods” or at times “autumn truffles” because they are in season from October to December. They are best when shaved directly on the dish before eating – and are considered the best, especially by the Italians.

In North America, truffles grow west of the Cascade Mountains, from Vancouver Island, British Columbia all the way south to northern California. In the last 20 years, Oregon truffles have emerged as an international competitor, due in part to the decline since 1900 of European truffle production.   Touted as equally aromatic, Oregon truffles cost less than one-tenth the price of their famed European counterparts.

Sound tempting? At Tra da Noi in Malibu, the famous Alba white truffes have been shaved over Orecchiette Al Peccorino, homemade ear-shaped pasta, fresh peas and mushrooms. The extra taste comes from the pasta being served in a hollowed out cheese so that the cheesy flavor seeps through. It also seeps through the most expensive truffle burgers these days.

P1070821 2Chef Kerry Simon’s was one of the first to use truffle oil as a secret ingredient in his potato mash.  Today it is even commonly used in French Fry coating.   Simon said, “truffles bring an earthy, balanced flavor to the dish while bringing out its own natural flavors.” He claims, “people absolutely love it, even trying it for the first time.”

Truffle oiled Mac n’ cheese is a popular new sophisticated, wonderfully gooey Breadbar dish (www.breadbar.net). Proving its finicky pedigree, its slightly metallic taste is not successful on Truffled Tator Tots at the downtown O Hotel (www.ohotelgroup.com) on the “gourmet comfort food menu. “ Unfortunately at times the oil is not the absolute freshest  so diners trying it for the first time are so disappointed they won’t try truffles in any other form.

Try this delicacy at home. Truffles soaked in olive oil sounds simple but a reliable, fresh source is critical for the real deal.   Mouthwatering ideas include asparagus or grilled shrimp with truffle oil vinaigrette; sweet potato mash with truffle oil and bourbon; pasta or risotto with a poached egg and truffle oil. For more, search out maven Erika Kerekes’ own on www.inerikaskitchen.com.

Store delicate Truffle Oil in the fridge since it loses aroma over time, and best to savor as much – or all of it – as soon. This treasure is fragile! To give you an idea, wholesalers cover overnight air freight shipments of the stuff with rice on serving trays and store them in a refrigerated room until restaurants open up in the morning for delivery, all done within 24 hours of harvesting.

International Love Affair with Sea Urchin

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(Gerry Furth-Sides)

California Sea Urchin (Uni)

California Sea Urchin (Uni)

You either love it or hate it, and it was love at first bite for me with uni (the Japanese word for sea urchin roe). The gold- colored little gems resembling a kitten’s tongue taste like a cloud and are soft to the point of trembling. When they melt in your mouth, it produces an explosion of vibrant ocean flavor every time.

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Ancient Apollonian Greeks reveled on wine, dipping bread, and the sea urchin they harvested at water’s edge. I first tasted uni in the 70’s, just as the California sea urchin fishery began in earnest, due to a growing demand for traditional Asian cuisine. In those days sea urchins were considered pests, both to kelp harvesters and sports divers alike.
From those lowly beginnings, the sea urchin crop has risen to rank among California’s most important fisheries.   Dave Rudie of the California Sea Urchin Commission explains it as, “Among the world’s harvesters, only California has the temperate climate and favorable ocean environment that allow divers to bring in high-quality red sea urchins, even in the dead of winter.”

Sea urchins are named from the Olde English for the round spiky hedgehogs  they resemble. A one to four-inch shell (called a test) covers their spiny-covered whimsical round shapes. Rudie tells us, “ All California Red Sea Urchins, which can be red or black in color, are edible. This family has five parts and you may be more familiar with its members in the form of sea urchins, starfish, sand dollars and sea cucumbers.   Uni are also invertebrate – just like insects you see on land.”IMG_3115

Another oddity: sea urchins and humans are astonishingly alike —genetically speaking.   “A recent sequencing reveals a striking number of similarities in the genes,” notes George Weinstock, Co-director of the Human Genome Sequencing Center at Baylor College of Medicine in Houston, Texas.

Each sea urchin spiny shell holds five pieces of the precious, firm roe, each well defined, with a shine to it and no moisture on top. According to Rudie, “Processing sea urchin requires carefully cracking the shell with a pointed instrument to separate the halves and expose the delicate roe without damaging it. Then the uni is meticulously spooned out, dipped in salt water, very carefully washed by hand and treated with a stabilizer before being graded and packed – all within 48 hours of being unloaded from a diver’s vessel.”

You next see them in the market, or neatly tucked between other sushi ingredients on a shelf, in their traditional pine wooden trays. They sell from $10 to $15 each ( 1.5 to 2 ounces).

Initially, nearly all California uni was exported to Japan.   Reports Rudie, “Today, approximately one third of the 800,000 pounds or so of harvested uni is eaten in the U.S. to the tune of $9 million wholesale, in comparison to the $12 million in international trade. ”

Participants in California’s sea urchin fishery support responsible resource management. The industry imposed an assessment on itself to fund management, research and enhancement projects as early as the 1980’s.   Trained, volunteer divers collect scientific data during normal fishing operations on a scale never before attempted. Thermometers to monitor the temperature of the sea urchin have most recently been introduced. Talk about new and improved!

The California Sea Urchin Commission was created in 2004 as an industry advocate. In Rudie’s description, “The commission creates and maintains high standards, conducts independent scientific research and quality improvement projects, and basically gets the word out to the public. We operate under state law, and are funded equally by dedicated divers and handlers.”

Last November, the Commission adopted standard grades for buyers, sellers, harvesters and the public, noted the Executive Director, Vern Goehring. Uni had already been graded A, B and C by the industry.

The new, more descriptive names are California Gold, Premium California and Select California. All of the categories still boast of a “salty, ocean scent.” The colors range from brilliant gold to hues of much less bright yellow or brown. The top grades have a sweet buttery taste and firm texture, and the intact pieces for use in sushi and sashimi. Premium and Select taste more nutty than buttery and are less firm. They are usually used in soups and seafood stews.

To you about to try uni for the first time, I advise food writer’s Jeffrey Steingarten’s notorious “eat it eight times” rule before making up your mind.   Make round one Zip Fusion Restaurant’s delicate uni sushi topped with caviar alongside a mini-seaweed salad for a true gourmet taste of the sea.