Gerry Furth-Sides Archives - Page 81 of 82

Champagne Jacquart Celebrates a Half Century Anniversary – Everyday

November 10, 2015 Comments Off

Floriane Eznack is the perfect oenologist for the Champagne Jacquart House, arrived in Champagne with the passion to “create wines, not sell them or grow grapes.” Floriane represents the bold company, with a history considerered almost brazen by most standards. The daughter of a diplomat, this young lady’s childhood passion was “to become a fighter pilot,” in her words. “So you know I am tough.”She wears her fashionable cropped hair, a short chic dress and charm easily, the epitome of a determined French woman.

“We can’t make any mistakes in the blending,” she reported, because when it is done it cannot be changed. The aging may lend to its complexity but the blend gives the champagne its style.” And the style is one of elegance, just as it is in the mousse, the mass of tiny bubbles that forms on the top of a glass of champagne or sparkling wine. Champagne Jacquart possess a wonderful creamy mousse of small, compact bubbles.

Floriane’s mission on behalf of Champagne Jacquart House is not only to blend the champagnes as an oenologist, but to introduce the champagnes as a drink to be relished “on any day or for any get together,” not just special occasions, as their world ambassador. In a way, drinking champagne on echoes the essence of the company to break break tradition. It can also be healthy: A study just released advocated drinking one to three glasses of champagne a week because this can help prevent dementia and Alzheimer’s disease, according to a new study.

The story of Champagne Jacquart House began in 60’s during a period of significant social and political upheaval in France. Paralleling that change, 30 wineries from the famous Champagne region embarked on an extraordinary adventure for the first time in history, pooling their expertise and exceptional vineyards together to offer wine lovers a high quality brand of champagne without going through a middleman. What may have seemed idealistic at the start became a real success story. Fifty years later, today’s results show why Jacquart has become one of the leading international Champagne brands.

Floriane startled most of the guests (including me) at a tasting by recommending that champagne is best enjoyed in a wine glass with a wider than a traditional flute. Below, Alain Gayot, Editor-Publisher of Gayot Publications, savors the nose of the champagne in both a flute and a glass.

Jacquart Champagne Brut “Mosaique” NV is a very stylish and grown-up Champagne, described as a mosaic of shalk reflecting the terroir of champagne. The contemporary art image symbolizes the poise and free spirit of the house.

Inspired by the unique style of the photographer Isabelle Bonjean, Mosaigue has with a light golden color and small, even bubbles. It is made up of 50% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 15% Pinot Meunier. It is described as having a dominant note of lemon and crisp apple fruit on the nose, with just a touch of yeast and cashew. On the palate the mousse is rolling and full, and this champagne is assertive with bold herbal and citrus fruit that sets the mouth watering. A softer, pillowing breadth takes over while the wine stays very focused and savory, with balanced weight and texture, as well as a cutting acidity that really sharpens the finish.

The Ocean Prime Executive Chef, Matthew Briggs, paired Mosaique with Sonoma Goat Cheese Ravioli with Golden Oak Mushrooms.

Blanc de Blancs Vintage Chardonnay is singular in the varied origins of the grapes among the Jacquart brand. The Blanc de Blancs allies the nobility fine origin of chardonnay with exceptional quality vintage. Chardonnay Grapes, ripened to perfection, are harvested from Jacquart’s grands crus vineyards on the Côte des Blancs (Chouilly, Avize) and premiers crus vineyards (including Villers-Marmery). The color is a sparkling, brilliant, straw gold. Very lively with good persistent mousse. The nose is a cherry blossom, vanilla and white pepper mingling with notes of still-warm butter brioche.

Blanc de Blancs Vintage flavor is described as being at first fresh and light, followed by an explosion of mouthwatering flavors with white peaches and citrus notes in abundance. It has a very long, light, elegant finish.

Blanc de Blanc pairs beautifully with seafood and fish – especially freshwater varieties in a light sauce and even a plate of oysters, or a selection of fresh goat’s cheese. The chef paired it with California oysters from Kumai-Moro Bay.

The Rose Champagne was paired with Teriyaki Salmon with Shitake Sticky Rice and Soy Butter Sauce. The fresh, acidic taste of the champagne holds up to the hearty, fatty fish. It is also a wonderful champagne to pair with robust Indian dishes.

Launched in 2013, this vintage champagne, requires the longest aging. It also expresses the particular character of a year and its climate in Champagne. As the flagship of Maison Jacquart, it demands the utmost respect for its raw materials of grapes, as well as production techniques. The special foil and label at the neck, alone, require full time laborers who complete five bottles every hour. The champagne sells for $100 a bottle.

Floriane explained, “To make this cuvée, it takes imagination, meticulous care… and time.” The Cuvee was paired with a Sea Scallop with Parmesan Risotto, English Peas and a Citrus Vinaigrette.

The term “Cuvée” the best of the best from the Champagne region of France. The vintage 2006 Cuvee stands out by its grape varieties – only the two most noble Champagne varieties in equal shares. The Chardonnay grapes come from villages that are classified as Premiers Crus. As for the Pinots Noirs, they are exclusively from the Mailly and Verzenay Grands Crus on the Montagne de Reims.

It takes six years for the bold, modern aromas of this cuvée to develop and gain in complexity in the Champagne Jacquart cellars. It can also can be stored for several years.

The exciting history behind the company is about brave Champagne growers’ efforts in the early 60’s to control their own destiny rather than relying on the big Grande Marque houses as a route to market. The small group of growers also realized that in order to build their own businesses in a sustainable way, they needed to launch their own Champagne instead of supplying grapes directly to the Grande Marques or the to the negociant middlemen. A négociant is the French term for a wine merchant who assembles the produce of smaller growers and winemakers and sells the result under its own name. Négociants buy everything from grapes to grape must to wines in various states of completion)

The site was set with 2,400 hectares, a mosaic of crus, 7% of the Champagne appellation, a unique style. The Champagne Jacquart brand was subsequently released for the first time in 1962 and the ‘Mosaïque’ label chosen to represent the patchwork of grower families across the region, all joined together with a common vision.

The home of Champagne Jacquart is the stunning Hôtel de Brimont in Reims, situated on the Boulevard Lundy in between Krug and Roederer. Today there are 1,800 winegrowers dedicated to this venture (www.champagne-jacquart.com).

Indian as Apple Pie Spices up Thanksgiving

November 10, 2015 Comments Off

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Cinnamon, ginger and cloves are flavors sure to be found in every pumpkin pie spice combination. This fall, liven up the flavor by exchanging pumpkin or apple pie spice for Chai Masala from Indian As Apple Pie . This classic Indian spice blend still has hints of cinnamon and ginger, but will bring a bold new flavor to every Thanksgiving treat.

Here are a few suggestions of recipes you can zest up for this year’s Thanksgiving meal:

• Pies. From pumpkin to apple, the Chai Masala blend enhances many pie fillings and adds new flavor to the traditional desserts. The strong spice contrasts with the sweet fruit, creating a blast of flavor with each bite.

• Ciders and eggnogs. Break out the holiday beverages early and add a new twist. Kick up your mulled cider or creamy eggnog a notch with a peppery boost from the Chai Masala. Either drink will have guests sipping until the last drop.

• Stuffing. Chai isn’t just for sweet recipes; it can be used in savory dishes as well. No matter what kind of stuffing you make, Chai Masala is an excellent addition. Try it in a traditional sourdough stuffing or in cornbread stuffing studded with cranberries and tart apples.

A pinch of Chai Masala can bring new flavor to all parts of this Thanksgiving’s menu. For recipes using Chai Masala and other Indian As Apple Pie spice blends, visit the Indian As Apple Pie blog or check out Indian For Everyone by former journalist and best-selling cookbook author, Anupy Singla

Anupy Singla is a former journalist turned cookbook author and entrepreneur. Born in India but raised outside Philadelphia, Singla is the co-founder of Indian As Apple Pie ( www.IndianAsApplePie.com), a company with a variety of recipes, custom spice blends and unique home goods designed to make Indian cuisine accessible to every type of home cook. Singla’s commitment to healthful recipes and family-oriented cooking is inspired by her dedication to bring good, authentic food to her two daughters. Since her first book appeared four years ago, Singla’s The Indian Slow Cooker and Vegan Indian Cooking have sold more than 100,000 copies and perennially topped Amazon’s list of bestselling Indian cookbooks. Her latest addition, Indian for Everyone: The Home Cook’s Guide to Traditional Favorites, mirrors her company in that it aims to make traditional Indian dishes accessible to all types of cooks and diets.

Top 100 List: Mayura Indian Restaurant in Culver City

November 7, 2015 Comments Off

Venice Boulevard in West Los Angeles, with its many blocks dotted with Indian restaurants, sweet and spice shops and even a major temple, has evolved into a “Little India” second only to Artesia. And Mayura Indian Restaurant has become the official star of the show, in part due to the blessing of a prominent LA Times writer’s top 100 list.

This is your new savory bakery with dough starring in half the menu sections. Perfect and unique dosas, uthappam, idly, naan, kulcha, parathas, porotta, poori, chapatti and roti, every one of which will make anyone forget the word, paleo. The treats are stuffed with or served with chutneys, veggies, potato, tamarind instead of more butter and jam.

There are close to 20 Dosas, paper-thin crepes made of fermented rice and lentil batter, grilled to a crispy gold and prepared with an abundance of ghee. To give an idea of how thin the dosa dough among their list of 22, the crepes are accurately labeled “paper.” (filled crepe like) Spring dosas are filled with carrot, pea, potato and other veggies. The piped mashed potatoes may seem like too much “frosting on a starch cake,” but they to go together perfectly with the dosa.

Samosas and the crispiest pakoras, served with mint chutney and raita look and taste as festive as a Christmas wreath. Flavor, texture, heat and color reign here.

There are Uthappam (very large, fermented rice and lentil pancakes), that are layered with veggies, such as peas, carrots, onions and/or chilies and folded over.

Idly (steamed fermented-lentil and rice cake patties look and taste a lot like very dense Chinese bao. Of course, it is easy to eat a plate of them rotating all the condiments. These are also served with sambar, a broth-like liquid.

Appam, look as delicate as snowy white lace handkerchiefs dropped onto a plate, taste as light as they look, and yet boast deep intense texture and flavor.

Poori, deep fried whole wheat puffed bread. Fried to a crisp chickpea flour coated veggies serves with mint, tamarind chutney.

And naans! There are plain Naans cooked in a tandoor, Naans topped with Garlic/Ginger/Onion, Naans topped with melted butter and Naans topped with cheese. Kulcha is Naan stuffed with freshly chopped onion and sprinkled with herbs.

Rarely found Kerala style dishes make up the rest of the menu, including Fish Curry a must-try, signature Kerala dish cooked in savory gravy ($9.95) Fish curry, Avial (as a starter or entre), Kerala a Kerala-style dish of julienne vegetables sautéed with coconut, which has made it onto many local Indian menus. Another famous dish is Vegetable Biriyani, the dish famous of trade spices and also a favorite to the north on the coast.

Mayura Indian Restaurant sits,almost hidden, in the middle of a congested corner strip mall. Inside it takes a minute or two after you enter to sort out the L-shaped room its front jumble of a wall buffet, communal and smaller and booths along the back wall. Shabby-chic white chair covers add a surprising party atmosphere. At a birthday lunch we hosted there recently, no one wanted to leave even after three hours.

The Anijan family-run restaurant has both a halal (meat following Islamic religious code) and a vegetarian kitchen. While southwestern at its roots, the owners include what they deem popular with customers, naturally from the north, like most Indian restaurants. While a many-layered place, it is well thought out by Padmini Aniyani, who puts her doctorate degree in business and marketing to good use. This includes pretty , matte-finished take-out menu with photos, plus Indian celebrities and notables lining the wall above the buffet .

The Mayura kitchen specializes in dishes from the owners’ home area of Kerala on the southeastern border of the country right on the Arabian Sea. A 1500 year old spice trade that evolved the region into one of the most cosmopolitan in India earned it the name, “Spice Coast”. Renowned for Malabar Black Pepper, cinnamon, cardamom and curry leaves, the cuisine also incorporates a lot of bananas and coconuts which grow in the area. Nayar Hindus, Muslims, Syrian Christians and even an ancient community of Jews all have an influence on the culture.

Nearby, the more colorful and contemporary, Annapurna Southern Indian Cuisine, also features dosas and superb Southern Indian Cuisine (//localfoodeater.com/ Annapurna-Indian-Vegetarian-Restaurant-in-culver-city).

Mayura, 10406 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310-559-9644, (//www.mayurala.com/)

New Spice Affair Restaurant Updates Authentic Indian Cuisine

November 4, 2015 Comments Off

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Spice Affair looks to fill big footprints in its Beverly Hills home on Restaurant Row. It replaces Gaylord’s and Tanzore (all in the same family) with brand new owners and management on a street where size and opulence once reigned. These days, all but historic institutions, such as Lawry’s The Prime Rib next door, are scrutinized by every critics. The world-renowned SLS Bazaar across the street is one of the few new places to have made it in the last decade.

In less than a year, Spice Affair has backed its claim of being “the ultimate Indian indulgence” and achieved status as the “buzz” of the foodies with its own California and contemporary versions of authentic Indian fare. This is not surprising because sophisticated owners Sonia Batra and Puneet Chandak, are used to such scrutiny, having honed their skills with their first Indian restaurant, Broadway Masala, in Redwood City, which earned a Michelin-star rating. Anupam Bhatia creates all their restaurant menus and also oversees the cocktail list. Chef Nimish Bhatia is the chef.

From the moment you walk into the exotic bar and lounge, the staff is professional, welcoming and accommodating. Even in low light the special stone bar glows to the ends of the room. The bartender was only to happy to substitute gin for vodka in the Mumbai Mule served in a special chilled copper mug with ginger liqueur, cardamom honey and a lime wedge. Other drinks with fascinating names are the Bourbon La Rouge and the Violet Dusk.

One of the more unusual dishes seldom found on American restaurants is the Tomato and Carrot Shorba, a creamy, delicate soup with infusions of coriander that is tempered with royal cumin. It is rich with layers of flavor that do not overlap each other, seeping into the soup, a characteristic of authentic Indian food.

In another unusual dish, a dramatic one reminiscent of Moroccan Bastilla, an ethnic blend of rice and meat or vegetables cooked on a Dum is served with Raita.

The Spice Affair appetizer sampler plate

The Sampler Appetizer Platter includes tandoor-grilled Marinated Artichoke Hearts, one of the most popular dishes at Spice Affair, featuring caramelized onions, almonds, tamarind and tomatoes. A mixture of duck meat and dates tops Indian bread. An Indian Bread Wrapper of Phulka contains chicken tikka masala filling. Sev puri is stuffed with white peas and sprinkled with strands of sev.

Authentic blends of rice and meat or vegetables are cooked on a Dum, and served with Raita, a yogurt based side dish.

Desserts include an especially smooth yet densely, rich Halwa.

Spice affair, 50 N. La Cienega Blvd,, Beverly Hills, CA 90211, 310-400-6800 (//www.spice-affair.com/)

New Joyous Nepalese Cooking at Gate of India in Hollywood

October 3, 2015 Comments Off

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Joyous, Chef-owner, Boda Nirouia, renews Gate of India, an old Hollywood mainstay since the 198o’s, with his gift for contemporary Indian cuisine fusion. Chef Boda’s dishes shows a light, deft hand at incorporating fusion elements that elevate the most ordinary Indian dishes. Here radish sprouts, garlic, peas and broccoli plus a slice of citrus bounce the flavors of a rich broth to a new level. An added squeeze of the lemon slice garnish again provides another tart layer of taste.

The chef’s background as a trained chef with experience in India’s highly regarded Restaurant and Resort Group, Oberoi, shines through his refined dishes, spiced with an even heat throughout. His Thai Restaurant experience inspires contrasting color hues using sprouts and flowers, for picturesque plating – welcome in the Indian cuisine, filled with robust layers of taste but including lots of brownish stews. Cher Boda’s Nepalese heritage also means an insider’s taste near the border to “authentic fusion” Indo-Chinese dishes.

Gate of India’s show off Sampler Platter adds a zing of primary color to his version of Samosa, Onion Pakora, Tandoori Chicken Drummettes and a rare Potato Salad. The Pakora, already an attention-grabber with its appeal of soft onion and crispy coating is executed perfectly. Green and purple radish sprouts cap the tiny mountain of delicate Nepaplese Potato Salad, sitting in a paper-thin pastry shell. Boda’s little Drummettes, evenly infused with a hint of freshly ground spices and chilies, in house, are a challenge to perfect in the Tandoor.

The chef pulls it off consistently with just the hint of char and smoky flavor. The color is all natural, layered on by spices and cooking. Tandoor Salmon is marinated in sour cream and a paste of ground turmeric, garlic,mustard seed before cooked in the clay oven. The addition of a lime for an extra squeeze of tart flavor completes the dish.

Indo-Chinese dishes, especially from Nepal, fuse the best of India and Chinese flavors and textures. Thin noodles, the better to prepare then al dente and offer a bite to them, are the base of Gate of India Chow Mein, done as a stir fry with slices of bell peppers and carrot, cabbage shreds and topped with scallions. Chicken or egg can also be added.

Thick strawberry Lassi and Banana Lassi are almost enough for dessert. Sweet Naans, such as one stuffed with Raisins, cashew nuts and peanuts or the Naan stuffed with Apricot are on the Gate of India menu.

The small, corner shopping center and new Hollywood home to Gate of India, feels transports you out of the country into India and Eastern Europe for unique ethnic foods. Thankfully we were so full from our Gate of India meal we could only grab a oversized puff of a meringue (filled with a cream and Greek nut spread) at Golden Nune is the owner; Lucy is there on week-days to help you.

Gate of India, 7300 W. Sunset Blvd, Suite E, Los Angeles, CA 90046, (323) 874-6673 (www.GateofIndiaSunset.com)

Radhika Modern Indian Goes Gourmet

September 4, 2015 Comments Off

(Gerry Furth-Sides) In his mission to mainstream authentic Indian food to American customers, trained Radhika Modern Indian chef owner Karan Raina has also achieved recognition as one of the best Indian restaurants in Los Angeles. Always on site at the restaurant, Raina was raised in the Punjab area in India, known for exporting innately knowledgeable restaurateurs, and Karen has shown he is one of the best.

The unique dishes are distinguished by refined, authentic regional flavors as their base. White Gaspacho on the summer menu is a perfect example. The Gazpacho of cultured yogurt, made in-house, parsley and mint is an echo of a refreshing salt lassi. Raina explains that a lot of care is taken with the spices, including the roasted cumin, Persian cucumbers (pressed into the liquid), tomato, lime juice salt and pepper and summery dill. “Each dish is built around one herb or spice,” he says, with dill honored in the Gazpacho. A surprisingly delicious, if subtle, starter with buttermilk tartness, it also makes it an excellent palate cleanser.

As tantalizing as bread from the oven can be, the Bread Basket at Radhika offers original and herb-flavored naans, a bit oversized with flavor to match. Prantha, stuffed whole wheat bread cooked in the Tandoor, is also available.

A slight variation on the ever-popular Saag Paneer or Cheese Spinach, Radhika Spicy Paneer with assorted vegetables, introduces the ability of the kitchen to infuse a dish with heat, rather than an assaultive spikiness. Raina described it as Indo-Chinese, a “kind of Manchurian dish,” with soy, sweet and sour chilies, and the sweetness of tomato, a fruit after all. Textures and color from the peppers add interest. And in this dish, basil is the main herb honored. So tomato and basil, for sweet and sour, all elements familiar to the universal palate are the base of the dish.

Malai Kofta, a sort of handmade ball of squash, veggies and cottage cheese, simmered in Almond and Cashew Broth, is a perfect vegetarian dish that also satisfies carnivores as an entrée or side dish because it has hearty protein and is also slightly sweet. This is from the mid-section of the Indian map, and “Gujarati style is always, always sweet,” laughs Raina. “They put sugar on everything.”

chicken Tandoor Cilantro is the herb featured in the tender, juicy, Tandoori Chicken, marinated and cooked in the Tandoor oven. It is a contemporary color palate with the grilled crusty yellow gold chicken on a bed of garden green Persian cukes, white cabbage and lime punctuated with red onion. The Raina demonstrated more of the full array of what Radhika kitchen can do with chicken by bringing out Chicken Tikka Masala, the mainstay with which every restaurant can be measured and a fun appetizer, Chicken Pikkora, infused with cayenne yet coated with the lightest batter reminiscent of tempura. A slightly sweet tamarind relish brings out even more of the flavors by contrasting with the cayenne pepper. chicken tikkamasala chicken Z pikkora

The chat masala, the spice blend that is the base of all sauces, is what makes the difference between a good Indian dish and a superb one.It is even used to flavor the pakora batter. Raina imports his spices and uses only the freshest.

Smoky flavor is what lingers from the Salmon Kabab, fresh salmon marinated with herbs and spices and cooked in the Tandoor. Fresh, highest quality marks the powered coriander, the very fine cumin and the mustard oil marinade. Pan fried vegetables accompany the salmon, including cauliflower, peas, zucchini and translucent mini-onion slabs. As with the Naan, this dish is meant to be eaten hot since the salmon continues to cook on the plate.

Radhika Lamb Shank, that most beloved dish of diners, is here accompanied by a side dish of the lightest, long grain Kasmiri Rice. The cherry on top signified the fruit and other exotic touches influenced by the regal Persian occupiers of the area.

Imported cinnamon, coriander and cloves, made into a yogurt sauce with the classic tomato, ginger, garlic and onion, seep into the lamb as it cooks. “We go through 12 lamb shanks a day.

Named after his mother, Radhika (also a prominent spirit in Indian mythology). Karen’s father was born in Kashmir, and his mother is Punjabi, the best of all culinary worlds.

Radhika is on a corner of one of the most inviting, if not the most inviting, streets anywhere. The feeling of history permeates the quaint neighborhood, with wonderful, over-sized windows peering out of two-story buildings that are only found in areas over a century old. Radhika is a handsome, intimate corner restaurant with a separate smaller wine room and lounge.

Radhika’s label as “gourmet,” is that of a connoisseur of fine food and drink rather than one meaning “high priced.” It pertains to a dish setting a standard in its visual appeal. It sets the standard in taste with fresh ingredients, balanced and seasoned perfectly and also maintaining the integrity of the original dish. And here the label falls under the category of a “gourmet” kitchen elaborately equipped for the preparation of fancy, specialize or exotic meals.

Radhika Modern Indian, 966 Million Street, S. Pasadena, CA 91030, (626)799-2200, (www.radhikarestaurat.com)

Order online for pickup or delivery below.

LA’s Best Coffee: ARO-LATIN’s Café de Olla Corretto

September 3, 2015 Comments Off

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Cafe de Olla Corretto, a beauty of a drink, was first created for me one hot, lazy day in South Pasadena this summer at the AROLATIN bar. And there is no hotter or lazier than on this quaint street. Alejandro Chavez revamped and elevated the drink for us. His recipe goes thusly:

Café de Olla, with pillonsillo and cinnamon

Shot of tequila

5 oz patron Café Liquor

Splash of rumchata

And how appropriate that we are on Mission Street, the set of blocks created by an eccentric bunch of businessman before the turn of the century, who made their money quickly and emphatically in the then nearby orange groves. This merry band took the term “mixed use property” to heart. They utilized the first floors as retail businesses and the second floors to house their concubines for monkey business.

Once inside the cool, inviting restaurant, we didn’t stop with the Cafe de Olla. This was a “dessert” visit so we indulged in the light, most moist, tres leches cake, created by Candy Garcia Raina, co-owner of AROLATIN with husband, Karan.

The original Cafe de Olla corretto tastes just as delicious, and was just as pretty although I’m not sure of the effect. Not only did the AROLATIN bartender take back the bottle he had handed me to help myself, after he learned that I was not taking the metro, he didn’t finish pouring the rest of the tequila!

In Italy it is known as Caffe corretto, a shot of espresso with a small amount of liquor, usually grappa and In Italy it is known as Caffe corretto, a shot of espresso with a small amount of liquor, usually grappa and sometimes Sambuca or brandy. Outside of Italy, it also goes by the name, “espresso corretto” and ordered as “un caffe corretto alla grappa.” But who cares about the details. Coffee by any name is my passion, proven by the fact that the ONLY password clue I remember is “Favorite Food,” and that being “coffee. “ It is the taste and the ritual that is important. Most Italian bartenders prepare a caffe corretto by adding a few drops of liquor into an espresso shot; however, when it is a favored customer, bartenders are known to present the espresso shot and liquor bottle and let the customer do the pour.

In Spain a similar drink is known as carajillo, and in Sweden, Norway and Denmark as Kaffekask, karsk and kaffepunch. However, it makes me smile to learn that karsk or kaffe is actually coffee added to moonshine to make it more palatable, rather than liquor added to coffee for flavor! I will have to remember this when I visit PLANCHECK next time, where moonshine is a star on Chef Ernesto’s menu.

Grappa (or tequila for that matter) in coffee is a crazy idea. However, the drink has become so popular and well known that the phase “corretto”, meaning “corrected” in English has become an idiomatic term in Italian, a Phraseme.

Added to this apology for the drink, you could say they are both stimulants is that espresso has less caffeine than coffee. When I was boarding a plane in Milano a few years back and had already taken a valium for the flight, I remembered that it was my mission to have an espresso in this glorious city – so I had a double. It was a singular and just as novel an experience as enjoying my first caffe corretto on a terrace overlooking Lake Garda a few weeks earlier. The espresso did not phase me at all except for a pleasant buzz; I slept like a baby all the way home.

I’m not sure how the more raw-tasting mezcal would work in the drink, but trust the bartenders. On a place of honor among the shelves on the impressive wall behind the bar are a changing row of infused mezcal in gleaming colors. We tried one of Bartender Alejandro’s refreshing, fruity creations with the prickly pear infused in a special cocktail.

AROLATIN, 1019 Mission Street, S. Pasadena, CA 91030 (626) 799-9400. (//arolatin.com/). Order online for pickup or delivery below.

“STEAK (R)EVOLUTION” Film Leaves Out America’s Finest

August 29, 2015 Comments Off

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Acclaimed French director-producer Franck Ribiere, who turns out to also be a dedicated carnivore, takes us on an international search for the best and healthiest steak in the world in the documentary STEAK (R)EVOLUTION. It plays exclusively for a one-week engagement at Landmark’s Nuart Theatre, starting August 28.

The passionate Ribiere entices us with images of butter-dripping luxury steaks and provokes us with a comprehensive tour to think about how beef is most humanely – and thus best-brought to table, and so all the more enjoyed. Winner of the Best Documentary COLCOA 2015, watch the trailer here //www.youtube.com/watch?v=45g90TCJ5OU.

So how could they have left out Piedmontese Beef, both in Italy and the USA, giving a nod fleetingly to cousins, the Chianina in the Piedmont area?

Ribiere’s visit to historic Peter Luger Restaurant in Brooklyn, USA is the inspiration for the film although he leaves out America’s finest altogether (Piedmontese). Yet even Robiere’s interspersed shots of his Peter Luger experience alone, from the painstaking preparing of the meat and ritual steak meal at table to interviewing the current family owner (trained with her aunties to purchase meat, as shown below) are enough to make you phone in a reservation to the legendary steakhouse and buy a ticket to NY.

peterlugerservicemoxie

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Ribiere’s family set the bar high, raising their own Charolais cows in France, which at one time he thought were the absolute best, and with good reason. That was until he experienced a steak at the famed Peter Luger’s in Brooklyn, New York, considered the oldest steakhouse in America. Could anything be better?

directorfrankribieremoxie

The director has his doubts. And so he embarks with us on a journey around the world – well, Japan, UK, USA anyway, with his trusty expert guide and favorite butcher,Yves-Marie Le Bourdonnec. The steaks are numbered in a countdown but that is the most cohesive element of the documentary that is so richly filmed but seems to lack editing – and comes in at over two hours! Still, such “moments,” such as the Japanese couple who bow and express their honor over being included in the film before they introduce the filmmaker to their pampered cattle, are worth the price of admission. And the notion that great beef prepared even in a stove pan the proper way sets a standard for excellence.

steakrevolutionmoxie

Director Ribere describes his quest: “I took the point of view of a consumer who loves meat. My approach was therefore first and foremost to look for quality products and also to try to understand the producer’s philosophy.” At over two hours, the film feels unedited and very much the seemingly casual trips taken in every direction, also interspersing footage from Peter Lugar’s here and there.

The story is told through interviews with passionate cattle breeders, professional butchers, chefs, meat experts and steak house operators, to come to a conclusion about how good and healthy red meat can be achieved—and why it is becoming a luxury product. Most of them are detailed and informative. They indirectly advocate moving toward sustainable farming practices and smaller-scale operations as one positive change, just about literally a film pairing Michael Pollan’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma (2006).

japanesemeatmoxie

Far from large cattle farms with their industrial output, Ribière and Le Bourdonnec’s coverage extends from the surprisingly great beef in Great Britain (including grass-fed crazy Australia and New Zealand, to the raising of Kobe in Japanese spa-like conditions. One of the most fascinating segments, and yet treated as a novelty rather than one of the main elements in raising beef, is a breeder whose cattle live to the very, very ripe old age of 14 or so (rather than two). The cost of raising and feeding cattle could have been the focal point of the entire film.

We were heartbroken that they left out Piedmontese Beef, both in Italy and the USA, giving a nod fleetingly to cousins, the Chianina in the Piedmont area. The reason for the regality of Piedmontese is because the cattle have 1 or 2 copies of the inactive myostatin gene, which provides a higher lean-to-fat ratio. It is less marbled and has less connective tissue, thus more tender yet less fatty. This low fat beef is also lower in calories, higher in protein and contains a higher percentage of the good Omega 3 Fatty Acid. Piedmontese cattle spend the majority of their lives on grass and are finished on grains.

We did our own local research after the manager of Del Frisco Grille, billing itself as a “sophisticate chophouse chain serving steak…..) insisted on hosting us to try “the best steak in the world” at the Santa Monica location. Although he didn’t come out to watch our reaction, the chefs and staff eagerly awaited our reaction with baited breath as they brought out the ribeye, grilled at a high heat with no other seasoning than a coat of salt and pepper. The beef had a definite bite and distinct taste.

And so we give the last word to Del Frisco Grille’s National Director of Purchasing, Dave Tashman, who explains that the Del Frisco Grille’s beef is 100% Eastern Corn Fed, USDA Prime, and, like most American cattle, are raised on range or pasture for most of their lives and end life in the traditional and most humane way possible. In his words, “this method provides the marbling, flavor and makes US meat better than any beef in Europe or Great Britain. Millennials think grass-fed cattle is better but in reality most grass fed are ‘finished’ on some form of of non-grass veggies, usually corn, for the luscious mouthfeel and the best taste in the world.” (delfriscosgrille.com/santa-monica).

Another French director, the legendary, Academy Award winning director, René Clément and his iconic post-war masterpiece, Forbidden Games (1951) arrives with Steak (R)Evolution at the NuArt this week with a new digital presentation and translation. Plenty of table scenes, with lots of entrees, albeit straight from the field, made into finger food at the rustic dining table, round out the compelling friendship of two youngsters, five-year-old Brigitte Fossey and 11-year-old Georges Poujouly, a country boy who somehow acts in a regal manner amidst the idiotic peasant feuds of the adults around him.

ForbiddenGames

After Brigitte’s parents are killed by an air strike while the family flees Paris during the German invasion, she wanders off in her gorgeous little fashionable dress, into the nearby bucolic surroundings and a life as alien from the city as if were on another planet. The two youngsters form a special, secret bond that makes a lot more sense than the behavior of the adults around them, whose petty feuds mirrors that of the world war going on in what feels like a distant rest of Europe. Narciso Yepes’ haunting guitar vituoso score ranks right up there with that of The Third Man’s inspired zitherist, Anton Karas. The personal and disturbing, Forbidden Games, shot in stunning, elegant black and white, proves to be timeless after winning the Golden Lion at the Venice Film Festival, the Independent Grand Prix at Cannes, the Best Foreign Film Award from the New York Film Critics Circle, and Clement’s second Academy Award® for Best Foreign Film.

Trailer: //www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_m00tBc1I4

Rare Southern Fare at Annapurna Indian Vegetarian in Culver City

August 19, 2015 Comments Off

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Dosas in all their glory have a starring role in Annapurna Southern Indian Vegetarian Restaurant’s new menu. They are so much fun, so satisfying that carnivores won’t notice the absence of meat. The Culver City restaurant, acclaimed as one of Los Angeles’ best Indian restaurant, may be named after a mythical angel, and one of the most revered, treacherous Nepalese mountains in the world but earthly comfort food is key here. In a more urban take, Annapurna offers 5 Cocktail Uthappams of the chefs sauce served with channa curry.

Also on the menu are authentic specialties just as whimsical in appearance and also healthy, such as Vada, a savory cousin of the American doughnut, pieces of and Puri, clouds of fried unleavened Indian bread that looks like kin to the southern American popover. Dahi Vada, deep-fried lentil donuts, laced with cilantro, dipped in a special yogurt sauce are served with yogurt and spices, the telltake clue it will not be sweet.

At Annapurna the Puri puffs out on on a tray like mountain Annapurna restaurant shares a name with on a metal tray with Channa masala, a spicy garbanzo bean stew filled with Serrano chilies usually topped with pomegranate molasses, and the Indochinese Paneer Chili, spiked with chilies in a sauce, onion and green pepper.

Dosas have one of the high rankings in the current World’s 50 most delicious foods compiled by CNN. The paper thin dosas are compared to a pancake but they most resemble a French tuille in appearance with the crunch of a potato chip.

Dosas come in all sizes. The three most popular forms are cylinders, circles that can be folded over into triangles like a crepe and cones, with a tiny one tilted atop a bigger one – or rolled up into a very long family version – it can be as long as the griddle they are cooked on so many families opt to eat them at restaurants with extra long professional stoves, as they have as Annapurna.

Dosas provide a great source of complete protein in the combination of rice flour and black gram lentil. This also makes it easy to digest although even one dosa can keep you adequately full because they are high in carbs although they contain no sugar or saturated fats. Not only is it a source of protein but the fermentation process increases the vitamin B and vitamin C content.

The adaptable Southern Indian Dosas are popular both at breakfast and at any time of the day. They are as versatile as a pancake and can be infused or filled with flavorings and spices (a popular one honors the Indian flag with chilies and cilantro at either end. They can be stuffed to make for a hearty meal, and their flavors enhance the most popular combinations they are paired with, most often coconut or tomato chutneys, or sambar vegetable curry. Sambar is a lentil-based vegetable stew or chowder based on a broth made with tamarind.

Dosas are only a part of the Annapurna Restaurant menu. Thali’s includes appetirs, rice, stew, urry, pickle, veggie, raita (yogurt based sauce, and dessert served on a round metal tray with a bowl of rice in the middle.

Dessert features Halwas made of fresh fruits and carrots, cooking in a heavy milk sauce and melted butter, and the Gulab Jamoon shown below.

A full buffet of changing items includes the Far Far crisp with the fun name.

Order online for pickup or delivery below.

Annapurna Cuisine, 10200 Venice Blvd. Culver City, CA 90232, (310) 204-5500. Business Hours: Monday – Thursday : 11:30am – 3:00pm, 5:30pm – 10:00pm. Friday – Sunday : 11:30am – 10:00pm. annapurnacuisine@gmail.com

Mexicano Rules

August 8, 2015 Comments Off

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Exceptional Los Angeles Eastside restaurants usually stay a well-kept secret and so it was with La Casita Mexicana in Bell (all of about 3 miles from downtown L.A. ) for the bold, traditional dishes and the Latin hospitality of charismatic chefs Jaime Martin del Campo and Ramiro Arvizu (www.tienditamex.com/first-restaurant-post). That was true until they opened Mexicano ( “me-hi-ka-no”)this year, on the west side in the Baldwin Hills Crenshaw district. (www.mexicanola.com)(baldwinhillscrenshawplaza.com).

Noelle Carter, LA Times Test Kitchen Director (with Chefs Ramiro and Jaime)

Ironically, street construction, torrid unseasonal weather and a packed schedule even makes a visit an out of town adventure. Hostess, Olga, made it even better by offering a cool drink at the door before leading out into the little breezy, shaded outdoor patio corridor (just outside the shopping center doors). There we were under the professional, cordial care of server Sylvia, although she handles both inside and outside tables.

(image courtesy of Mexicano restaurant)

(image courtesy of Mexicano restaurant)

Just-fried corn chips served warm in a stunning silver bowl inscripted with Mexicano, arrived at the table soon after. The chips topped with some smashed fijoles with a bit of pickled carrot and jalapeno strips and crumbled cotijo cheese, are accompanied by a ramekin of full-flavored smokey salsa with heat but none of the spikey .

A cucumber-mint agua fresca was in order avoid a sweet drink, with a shot of tequila on the side for omph. It arrived in a shot glass cleverly sitting tightly in a small round vase of ice, representative of very thought to aesthetics being brought to bear in this lovely space –

The colorful entrees included Chile Nogada (served only on the weekends), a large, no make that giant, chile, cooked just until fork tender, filled with chopped meats, walnuts and raisins; topped with a mousse-like somewhat sweet Mexican Crema and served with Pomegranate Seeds across the top. Sylvia acknowledged that Jaimie and Ramiro “have friends in the right places.” This is an outstanding version of the classic dish. We would have licked the plate if no one was looking but service was so attentive while still being friendly we gave up on this idea.

Also perfect for sharing is the refined “Tres Moles” entree, which can be served either over roasted pork or over pieces of chicken (and the chicken was placed like a painting on the plate). The three moles are: Verde Mole (Green – this is the hottest but it wasn’t hot by any means), Negro Mole (The black Oaxacan 30-ingredient kind with chocolate), and Roasted Red Mole (with soft flavors); served with homemade warm corn tortillas just off the comal. The three moles were artfully laid over the meat in stripes, with Pumpkin (Pepian) seeds over the Green version.

A shout-out to our server, Sylvia, who treated us so kindly. And thanks to the bussers for always keeping the water refilled, especially welcome on a hot, humid day.

The extensive menu at Mexicano features additional dishes to La Casita Mexica’s menu, along with many of Jaime and Ramiro’s signature items—from ceviches to moles and stuffed chilies. The diminutive and intimate “La Casita” filled an entire storefront, replicating an authentic cendaduria in Mexico and has a wonderful little store attached to it. Here the expansive, spiffy restaurant features a casual shop attached.

Mexicano features a spiffy, but informal interior, complete with a bar area and full beverage program, as well as a picturesque patio area for al fresco dining and just about any kind and size of party from casual to formal. Though part of the sprawling mall, parking is free and accessible nearby and the restaurant is set off with a beautiful wrought iron gate. The area opens up into a room with hexagonal turquoise and cream floor tiles, stained wood, and etched metal dividers with abundant appointments in the form of colorful lamps, retail items, and indigenous artwork from the chefs’ home state of Jalisco.

The brand new Mexicano reflects the $40 million shopping center renovation. It is in the same shopping center that Brad Johnson and Chef Govind Armstrong pioneered in not that long ago with their upscale hit, the sleek, casual Post and Beam Restaurant (replacing a Golden Bird Chicken).

Another new feature is the performance kitchen. Signature dishes they brought with them are the chicken flauta topped with Jaime and Ramiro’s legendary mole poblano and the potato and homemade chorizo flauta filled with potato, Mexican crema and spicy tomatillo sauce. Menu highlights include a 10-minute cooked-to-order grilled tamale, Nayarit Cod ceviche, and pechugas de pollo, a simmering Mexican dish of shredded chicken with poblano chiles, cream and mushrooms.

No expense was sparred for the humble al fresco dining area, including suspended incandescent, Edison-style bulbs and steel pendant fixtures to illuminate the space. A long menu of visually stunning cocktails matches these new digs. Several Mezcal based cocktails star along with three fun Raspados, the Mexican version of a snow cone.

(image courtesy of Mexicano restaurant)

Decadent desserts include mini churros to dip in cinnamon-laced café, guavas marinated in a Mexican-style eggnog and Chile en Nogada Ice Cream topped with candied Poblano Chile strips, a play on the traditional chile dish of Mexico.

Flautas is a casual stand right behind Mexicano located in the food court. Here Chefs Jaime and Ramiro offer a number of traditional crisp-fried Mexican rolled tacos. Larger in size than taquitos, and a favorite street food in the chef’s native Jalisco, the flautas are topped with various sauces, salsas, and moles. Over 10 varieties will be offered at all times, including the popular chicken flauta topped with Jaime and Ramiro’s legendary mole poblano, and the potato and homemade chorizo flauta filled with potato, Mexican crema and spicy tomatillo sauce.

Jaime and Ramiro have the personalities of two “bad boy” chefs in terms of sharing their sheer joy of cooking without formality. They encourage everyone to call them by their first names, for example, and at the C-CAP “Sweet and Savory Event,” (www.ccapinc.org) it was the two guys who were started the ball rolling for chefs to introduce themselves to each other, posing and laughing with former Spago star, Pastry Chef Sherry Yard (www.TheTuckTavern.com) (below). They also thought nothing of simply packing up a bundle of their tamales for me to take home.

With Celebrity Pastry Chef Sherry Yard at the C-CAP fundraiser event

So it was a surprise – that now makes sense – to learn of their strong corporate backgrounds – which catapulted them to such success in their restaurant careers. The two met as airline company executives 19 years ago, and bonded over their shared desire “to open a true Mexican restaurant” with their family’s heirloom recipes. This expertise combined with their dedication to La Casita Mexicana has made them among the biggest stars in the Mexican cooking world.

The duo’s passion for Mexican cuisine and their knowledge has earned them critical acclaim and numerous civic awards plus a James Beard nomination for best chefs. and they are judges on the Telemundo show, “Top Chef Estrellas.” They are active members of The Taste of Mexico Association, known as “the flagship organization of restaurant exponents of authentic Mexican cuisine in Los Angeles.” We’d love to see them on Food Network’s “Chopped!”

mexicano restaurant, (www.mexicanola.com)(baldwinhillscrenshawplaza.com).