Historic Restaurants

Historic PCH Haven: Patrick’s Roadhouse

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) An unexpected drive to the valley found us on PCH looking to eat and look at the ocean. My patient companion let me stop at two other places before exclaiming she had never been to Patrick’s Roadhouse. Irish theme. Lucky Day for me.

Lunch at Patrick’s Roadhouse, PCH and Santa Monica Canyon

Established in 1973, Patrick’s Roadhouse, now in its third or more incarnation, has a wonderful history.  Like the Four Oaks in Beverly Glen, a train stop and brothel are part of it. The Roadhouse originated in the early 1900s as a Red Line train depot. It was a Roy’s Hot Dogs by the time Bill Fischler spotted it. He bought what he described as “the worst hotdog ever” and then bought out Roy out on the spot, starting with a $100 down payment.

He renamed the place Patrick’s Roadhouse after his youngest son, who became an actor (“The Black Dahlia” and “Muholland Dr.”) and started a legend.

Lunch at Patrick’s Roadhouse, PCH and Santa Monica Canyon

Fischler intuitively shamrock-themed the first “Patrick’s Place.”  The timing, location and mostly his hospitality made it the hottest diner in Santa Monica from the start. The eventual Roadhouse remained at capacity for its atmospheric 40’s feel, delicious burgers and friendly staff. Fischler, a self-described, “kibitzer,” was always on premise and always ready to talk. 

Francis serves Lunch at Patrick’s Roadhouse, PCH and Santa Monica Canyon

Fischler’s menu of standard breakfasts and burgers with “everything fresh, everything made from scratch” still holds. We  opted for a half liquid lunch of Bloody Mary’s and Fish and Chips. Francis, our server, brought us an order of housemade potato chips, too. The price ($18) is probably half of any other restaurant on PCH.

Cynthia Mamukari, Taste and Company at Patrick’s Roadhouse, PCH and Santa Monica Canyon

Bill downplayed his New York address with a “good address” on the Upper East Side, UCLA and a dozen years in South African coffee. He could work his interests of antiques, people, the old days and their courtesies, plus his passion for good coffee, serious breakfasts and loyal friendships into conversations.

Lunch at Patrick’s Roadhouse, PCH and Santa Monica Canyon

Bill’s son Anthony took over after his father passed away in the 1997.  Silvio Moreiria, a devoted former employee, helped operate the place.

From the wonderful feeling, all the way from the newest to the most long time waitstaff member, the same friendly, old-timey feel runs through the restaurant. When I phoned back to double check a bit of family history, I received the same response.  Regulars say they still feel Bill’s presence when they visit.

Kaila Lunch at Patrick’s Roadhouse, PCH and Santa Monica Canyon
Lunch at Patrick’s Roadhouse, PCH and Santa Monica Canyon

There’s also history in the kitchen.  Head chef Josesito who was at Patrick’s Roadhouse for over 30 years, cooked up the traditional recipes from the beginning of the Roadhouse. His famous “Kick Arse” pico de gallo is still on the menu, along with original Roadhouse Wanda Burger was created by the original Roadhouse chef, Wanda.

Lunch at Patrick’s Roadhouse, PCH and Santa Monica Canyon

“Arnold,” who I used to run with in a group nearby Will Rogers park, was and still is a huge fixture of the establishment. His mother came in one day and took over the kitchen to create a gargantuan  “Bauer Friihstiick” or  “Farmers Breakfast,” still on the menu with its 17 eggs. 

Lunch at Patrick’s Roadhouse, PCH and Santa Monica Canyon

Patrick’s Roadhouse, described as “an anchor at the bottom of Santa Monica Canyon, has almost always been packed with history. Thomas Edison filmed the world’s first film on a train going through the tunnel at the beginning of the PCH.  Albert Einstein went to think.   

It’s most of all a friendly neighborhood place, even if those neighbors may include Tom Hanks, Sean Penn, Goldie Hawn, Kurt Russell.  Visitors from the past include Jim Morrison, William Randolph Hurst, George Gershwin, Charlie Chaplin and Johnny Carson.

We actually filmed Wilt Chamberlain, who played volleyball daily on the beach before eating at the Roadhouse, coaching a woman’s volleyball on the beach for a Newsweek segment.  

Long-time server, Tracey, helped us remember our own connection.  Owner Bill was friendly with Hollywood reporter, George Christy. Greek George (Yorgos) was friendly with our friend Sofi Constantinidis, owner-chef of Sofi restaurant.  So Sofi and Patrick’s Roadhouse shared a lot of same customers!  When Sofi wanted to meet Bill, we went for a leisurely breakfast and stayed till lunch.

That was because fun was an innate part of Fischler, who liked to shock and amuse. You could instantly find him because he wore mismatched blue Madras shorts and shirts. His cafe still has the mismatched chairs and tables he also installed. You could say “they all matched.”

A neighbor who also put “fun” high on the list was Bob Morris, who owned Gladstone’s down the road. As much missed as he and Bill Fischler are, we are so thankful for the legacy in the form of this explosively upbeat team, who still provide such an exuberant haven that is so welcome these days.

Patrick’s Roadhouse, 106 Estrada Drive, Pacific Coast Highway, Pacific Palisades. (310) 459-4544. Seven days, 8 a.m.-4 p.m.

Lunch at Patrick’s Roadhouse, PCH and Santa Monica Canyon

Mandarette Chinese Café’s Special 35th Anniversary Menu

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Mandarette Chinese Café in West Hollywood celebrates its 35th anniversary with a special menu this winter. The original goal of founder, Philip Chiang, was “offering clean, fresh, delicious traditional Chinese Cuisine with a modern twist.”  Current proprietor Ken Yang’s dad was the original chef.  He  told us that this commitment still translates into success, but not necessarily by pulling in customers since business is now 60% delivery with week-ends the time for regulars and new customers to dine-in.  And so the Chiang legacy that began with the iconic Mandarin Restaurants and Ken’s family lives on (see story below).

The Mandarette Chinese Café ‘s 35th Anniversary Celebration

A special menu for the celebration starts with Three Cup Chicken, Beef, Or Squid, a classic Taiwanese dish made up of only three ingredients: sesame oil, soy sauce and rice wine. The secret is cooking the chicken, beef or squid long enough in the sauce until it is tender.  Then the sauce is reduced to a glaze that coats the meat. ($14.95)

Baby Back Rib appetizer with lemon & orange juice sauce at Mandarette Cafe

Braised Beef Noodle Soup served at lunch and at dinner still symbolizes Chinese comfort food throughout China and Taiwan. Beef is slow-cooked until the broth is rich with Chinese herbs and spices. ($11.95)

Green beans with minced pork at Mandarette Cafe

Sichuan Poached Fish Fillet is a spicier dish than found in Mandarin cuisine.  A fresh sole fish fillet is prepared with Sichuan “numbing” pepper, chilly pod, vegetable oil, minced garlic and other spices.  The idea is to offer a combination of textures with the tender white meat fish, crispness of the bean sprouts, hot spicy flavor of chili pepper, and a touch of “numbing sensation” of Sichuan pepper.

Aromatic Fiery Shrimp is a traditional Sichuan style spicy shrimp sparked with Sichuan pepper and spices.  Shrimp are stir-fried with a chili pod, Sichuan pepper, minced garlic, sliced ginger and scallion over sesame oil.  ($18.95). It is “tingly” rather than fiery or spiky hot, with what proprietor Ken calls “a distinct after taste that makes you want more.”

Aromatic Fiery Shrimp at Mandarette Cafe

Ken Yang has long experience to know the food and customers well.  He has been a mainstay in this Beverly Grove neighborhood on and off for 35 years, having left to go to engineering school and pursue a career in that field.   “When I retired, my family said I was too young not to be busy,” he laughs.  “So I took over again. And I’ve seen the third generation of regular customers become regulars.”

“My new customers are locals and tourists in the area,” with the appealing corner restaurant only a few blocks from the the Beverly Center.  Of Mandarette Chinese Café regulars, it seems that “everyone has their favorites, which they often order time after time,” he laughs.  “That’s why items like Signature Strawberry Shrimp, which is a mix of traditional and modern Chinese, have been mainstays on the menu for decades.”  We also have our favorites from the early days which are Walnut Shrimp and the Green Beans.

Yang tells about his family’s culinary journey that started from a little town, just north of Taipei,  “where my father started his traditional training in the kitchen at a young age of 13 from a master.  Upon completion, he gained experience working in several Taipei restaurants.  At the age of 25, a Japanese Chinese restaurant discovered him and was so impressed, he invited him to go to Japan as the head chef of his kitchen.

Ken Yang shows respect to the current sustainability trend by offering straws to Mandarette customers rather than having them on the table.

“And when Phillip Chiang first opened Mandarette Chinese Cafe in September 1984, he chose my father to create a menu,” continues Yang.  “He was then head chef and partner already at the famous Mandarin in Beverly Hills.   The restaurant was later sold to the Yang family in early 1990, who remained owners since then.

Duck wrap Mandarette Cafe

We loved the  Mandarette’s Chinese Cafe  ginger ale made in house, full of fresh ginger.  A fresh rose is the featured spirit, and there are Chinese beers on the menu as well.

Ginger ale made with real ginger inside the Mandarette Cafe kitchen

The  Mandarettte Chinese Café kitchen staff is happy to accommodate dietary restrictions along with regular menu items already vegetarian, vegan, omnivore and  gluten free choices.

Mandarette Cafe ingredients are always fresh

The history: Philip Chiang, son of Cecilia Chiang of the historic Mandarin restaurants in Beverly Hills and San Francisco, always wanted a place of his own–a cafe that he would conceive and design.  He wanted to introduce Californians to a new form of Chinese food, different from the usual egg rolls and sweet-and-sour pork. “I wanted to serve something light in a casual style.”

The beautiful small plates of food, dim sum, which had greatly impressed him during a visit to Taiwan, seemed perfectly suited to Mandarette Cafe.  After some trials and tribulations, such as the closure of Piero Selvaggio’s extraordinary  Primi restaurant in west LA, small plates are commonplace these days.

Chinese flavors mingle with Japanese, an influence, according to Chiang, that stemmed from the 14 years he spent in Japan after his family fled Shanghai at the close of World War II. “My taste and visual senses were definitely influenced by my stay in Japan,”  notes Chiang, who later studied architectural design and architecture at Art Center College of Design in Los Angeles, and worked as a graphic designer for the record industry for seven years before joining the restaurant business.

The Mandarette Cafe is understated and simple–almost Japanese in their starkness and design.   This is probably why it has always felt to me so much like San Francisco in the evening, with its high ceiling, minimalist decor and soft lighting.  Asian garments in plexiglass cases complete this look.

The Mandarette Cafe is understated and simple–almost Japanese in their starkness and design.

Finally, if the name Chaing seems so familiar, it may be PF Changs, named to honor the Chaing concept by owner-founder Paul Fleming, also owner of the Fleming Steakhouse empire and the entrepreneur who introduced Ruth’s Chris Steakhouses to the country.  He is a long-time friend and great admirer of the Chaing family that includes Chef Yang.

Mandarette Chinese Café, 8386 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90048, (323) 655-6115.  For details, please see mandarettecafe.com

Hours: Mon.-Thur. 11:00 AM – 10:30 PM; Fri.   11:00 AM – 11:30 PM; Sat   12:00 PM – 11:30 PM; Sun  12:00 PM – 10:00 PM

Second Generation Christy Vega Revs Up Casa Vega in Studio City

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Original owner Ray Vega’s beautiful daughter, Christina “Christy” Vega is one of LA’s most visible restaurant owners.  She can be seen on Food Network’s “Guy’s Grocery Games,” NBC’s “TODAY” Show, CBS’s “This Morning,” ABC’s “The View,” and more) is at the helm of the time-honored restaurant.

Christy Veg

Casa Vega is a family-owned Mexican restaurant that has been a Los Angeles landmark for 61 years and an iconic stomping ground “back in the day” for Old Hollywood’s biggest stars, from Marlon Brando, Cary Grant, and Jane Fonda.    There are waiters still at Casa Vega who can provide the stories — what each celebrity liked to eat.

Opened in 1956 by Rafael “Ray” Vega, Casa Vega prides itself on serving authentic Southern California Mexican food and drinks in a warm, festive atmosphere

Christy and dad, original owner, Ray Vega

The sprawling complex I comprised of a series of oddly shaped, appealing rooms (with a parking lot in back!)  The colored neon sign is a beacon of hospitality on the expansive corner.

 

Casa Vega features an extensive and time-tested menu, ranging from delectable dishes such as traditional chicken mole, burritos, enchiladas, and tostadas, to tasty house-made margaritas and mojitos.

 

Chopped Guacamole

Chopped Guacamole on a list of 12 Aperitivos

Must-try include Chopped Guacamole with fresh Avocado, Pico de Gallo, Jalapeño, Fresh Lime Juice, Flour Tortilla chips ($12.95)

Chopped GuacamoleWe also recommend the Carnitas De Puerco ($17.95), Seasoned Pork Butt, Salsa Verde-Pico de Gallo on (just enough) shredded lettuce.

The new Casa Vega Molcajete dish served in the most ancient of concrete bowl cooking utensils is Sliced Flank Steak, Chicken Breast, Tiger Shrimp, Grilled Chile Relleno, Green Onion, BBQ Enchilada Sauce, Guacamole, Sour Cream and Tortillas ($21.95)

For more information, please visit www.casavega.com or find Casa Vega on Facebook and Instagram.

 

Chao Krung: LA’s Historic Thai Restaurant

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IMG_4380(Gerry Furth-Sides) Chao Krung Thai Restaurant is such a landmark across from The Grove that owners, Boon and Supa Kuntee haven’t changed their anniversary sign out front for two years.  Founded in 1976, Chao Krung holds the distinction of officially the second Thai restaurant in L.A. and since the first Thai cafe at 8th and Vermont is long gone, it reminds the oldest longest running Thai in the city.  It’s is the kind of place where children of longtime customers are as common as the troops of employee ambling over from CBS Studios across the street.  Supa Kuntee continues to supervise the kitchen to retain the consistent food that earned Chao Krung their reputation.  Daughter Katy, who grew up learning the business first hand, now has three contemporary Thai restaurants of her own across town.

The Fairfax Avenue mainstay still features the original dark ornate interior, and classic Thai dishes with an annual special food event or two to thank customers.  Framed newspaper articles document the events through the years.IMG_4414

Pad Thai, Mint Noodles and Angel Wings, the whimsical and refreshing stuff of Thai cuisine was first to win over Los Angelenos in the late 70’s, and remain menu staples.  Imagine looking for the first time at a plate of Angel wings, a chicken wing that appears simply breaded and fried. It turns out to be boneless and  surprisingly stuffed with ground chicken, mushroom, carrot and vermicelli and served with a sweet chili lime sauce. The variety of flavors and textures carries over into the long Chao Krung menu, which includes sections of salads, soups, noodles, curries and desserts.

Shitake Mushroom Salad on a bed of mixed greens, including lettuce and cilantro, with slivers of sliced red pepper, dotted with small meaty mushrooms and spiced up with a Thai salsa dressing that lifts it into an more exotic southeast Asia category.

 Tom Kha Soup served steaming hot and staying hot in a majestic brass container that sits high on the table, holds Coconut milk soup with a citrusy tang from kaffir leaves, galangal, lemongrass, along with  substance from peppers and mushrooms.  It works for warm or cold weather.  The trick mastered here is preparing a thick, creamy curry, which means not overcooking the coconut milk (otherwise it breaks down and the oil separates out, making the mixture greasy).

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Crying Tiger heaped with medium rare beef, onions, coated hari covert, roasted red peppers that are charred in stripes to resemble the coat of a tiger and topped with cilantro sprigs.
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Pineapple Red Curry with Duck.  Chunks of pineapple in a red curry paste blended in coconut cream curry, Italian squash, bamboo, bell pepper and sweet basil.  The Thai red curry paste is what gives the dish a brilliant party orange color and flavor pizzazz.
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Eye-appealing Larb Chicken Thai Wrap is presented on a plate that can be eaten as a wrap or salad with knife and fork.  Lara is ground meat and here joined by chopped scallion in a spicy lime sauce and roasted rice powder on a bed of lettuce.  Sprigs of deep green fresh mint set it off visually and also on the palate. 
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The traditional Pad Thai (pictured at top of page) with rice noodle stir-fried with bits of chicken, shrimp, baked tofu, scallion, bean sprouts and egg with crushed peanuts.  “It’s very common on every Thai restaurant menu but not that easy to prepare, ” laughed Chef Sontee.  The variety of flavors and textures  are so universally appealing that Pad Thai makes the list of the five most popular dishes in the United States almost every year.

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Homemade Coconut Ice Cream, studded with rich toasted cashews, with sticky rice paste lining the bottom, elevate this light dessert.

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www.chaokrungla.com, 111 N. Fairfax Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90036, 323-939-8361.

French Cuisine and Hospitality Shine at Historic Le Vallauris

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Whether overseeing their Le Vallauris and Le St. Germain restaurants in Palm Springs, or catering a party of 50 in a landmark home straight up the mountain behind them (as they are here), the Belgian-American Bruggemans family and crews always makes it look and feel easy.

levallaurisprep LeVallaurisdessert

Valuable lessons that became second nature came early. Tony explains, “My parents were in the industry, my mother an incredible chef and my father in a service industry. Outside of their week-day jobs, they catered weddings, communions and other occasions on the week-ends. We were exposed at a very tender age to the meaning of doing service and ‘customer is King,.’ something we’ve maintained throughout our careers. It’s automatic that I will see to it that whoever walks through the door is happy.”

Both Paul and Tony graduated from hotel school in Belgium, Tony transferring from kitchen to front of the house by the time Jack Weiser at Frascatti in Los Angeles sponsored them to come to America. Tony and sister Christiane (Rorize), who has been with Paul for 30 years) arrived in Palm Springs to help with Le Vallauris about ten years ago.

“You have to think of restaurant hospitality,” Tony goes on,” like the travel industry, as a vocation (calling) more than a job. You work until the job is done, not by the clock. And you do the job with a smile and the best intentions so that the customer always has a great experience so that they come back. This is the first KEY to customers coming back.

“Though this idea of customer service is very European, it is a seriously refined one,” Tony goes on. “I can still remember horrific experiences in Berlin and even in France where food was thrown at me and waiters take orders as though they were doing you a favor. In the United States there can also be somewhat of a contradiction because management may believe in service but in this ‘the land of the free’ the staff may feel that catering to the client is being subservient. That leaves you with the attitude of, ‘I will give you service but don’t ask too much. What has to be understood is that even with free enterprise, in order to make money not only do you have to provide service, but you have to provide it from the heart.

“Los Angelenos live the pioneer spirit and want to try a new restaurant rather than dine at a familiar one,” he continues. But Palm Springs diners are more continental and love the familiar once they are assured of consistent cuisine and service,” which is the second key to success.

LeVallauris, 385 W. Tahquitz Canyon Way, Palm Springs, CA, 92262, (760)325-5059.  For details, menus and information, please visit: www.LeVallauris.com,