Hokkaido Milk Bread

(Gerry Furth-Sides) European, artisan breads, such as brioche have been woven into the American culinary repertoire for decades. Wildly popular Hawaiian bread that originated in Hilo, and Japanese Milk bread of Hokkaido are joining in. The news is that small is key. The elegant combination of airy texture and rich dough in almost bite-sized is nothing short of divine. The American irony is that “sliders” originated at pretty lowbrow White Castle in the early 20th century as an antidote to heavy drinking.

Pam and Ira Wyuck had a special delivery from their neighbors in Las Vegas. Pam described them as, “Victoria and Vincent, the cutest little delivery persons in town.” The delivery, she explained:  Their dad baked a batch of fresh and fluffy Japanese Milk Bread just for us!  We can’t resist the soft, pillowy goodness. ” 

Milk bread was developed in Japan in the 20th century, using tangzhong, a warm flour-and-water paste traditionally used in China to make buns with a soft, springy texture and tiny air bubbles. Surprisingly, we read and so possibly did this neighbor, milk bread with an incomparable crumb and buttery taste is a snap to make at home, using supermarket ingredients.

Shokupan is a Japanese take on the soft white loaves brought over by American GIs during the post war occupation, and was originally made from imported wheat and condensed milk as a cheap staple food during times of austerity. We love anything made in Hokkaido, including their scallops and sake.

Hokkaido Milk Bread, Japanese Milky Loaf, Asian Milk Bread, Shokupan, and Pai Bao are only some of the names for a very soft bread made with a tangzhong (see below). The milk bread name is also applied to breads made with a large amount of heavy cream as the liquid.

Buy it: //www.goldbelly.com/restaurants/ginza-nishikawa/shokupan-japanese-milk-bread-2-pack

Try it (yourself): Recipes on //www.177milkstreet.com

Our mouthwatering tale of Hawaiian bread begins in the 1950’s in Hilo, Hawaii. Shortly before Hawaii became a state in 1959, Japanese-American Robert R. Taira opened Robert’s Bakery in Hilo. Bakers specialized in sweet Portuguese-style breads. 

The Hawaiian-born son of Japanese immigrants Taira graduated top of his baking class, opened his firstbakeshop: Robert’s Bakery. Here the first soft round loaves of the Original Hawaiian Sweet bread were made.

A move to King Street in Honolulu a decade later prompted a name change to King’s Bakery, and distribution soared. These days the dreamy-soft rolls are actually made in Torrance, California, right down the street.  Chef-owner Sri Sambangi loves them for his signature Andhra Fried Chicken, and also for their even more popular rainbow cakes!  The Torrance location right down the road from Banana Leaf has been company headquarters since 1977. Dine-in and take out are offered.

Buy it: //www.khbakery.com

2808 W. Sepulveda Blvd., Torrance, CA 90505 (310) 530-0050

Brioche should be labelled “illegal” it is so good. It has just the right companion of marshmallow softness and still with more of a defined crumb and seasoning, than Hawaiian and Japanese milk bread, In mini-bun form they become the perfect “bite.”

Brioche history can be traced to the city of Rouens, France. References distinguishing it from bread go back to 1404. The word Brioche, of Norman origin, has been used since the 15th century. It comes from the French verb “broyer” which means ” to break, to grind”, referring to the kneading of the dough.

Brioche should be labelled “illegal” it is so good.

 High egg and butter content gives it a rich and tender crumb. The chef Joël Robuchon described it as “light and slightly puffy, more or less fine, according to the proportion of butter and eggs”.  It has a dark, golden, and flaky crust, frequently accentuated by an egg wash applied after proofing.  

Brioche is considered a Viennoiserie. This is because it is made in the same basic way as bread but has the richer aspect of a pastry because of the addition of eggs, butter, liquid (milk, water, cream, and, sometimes, brandy) and occasionally sugar.

Buy it: Brioche can be found in most boutique and high end markets. Trader Joe’s as well as large markets these days. It should be labelled “illegal” it is so good.

It is baked fresh in the kitchens of Taste & Company for parties and by special order.

To Try it and buy it: //www.tasteandcompany.com

//www.tasteandcompany.com//www.tasteandcompany.com

info@tasteandcompany.com, (310) 701-4627, Mailing Address: 10736 Jefferson Blvd #168, Los Angeles, CA 90230