Kaiseki menu

The Inside Story of Legendary Mori Sushi

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) The person who answers the phone at legendary Mori Sushi still insists you are calling “Mori”himself, and the name is very much on the raggedy but intact outside sign with the famous fish logo.  The sushi served inside these days has very much the same touch but it not because Mori is there.  I had a rare opportunity to dine at Mori with Australian journalist, Paul Best recently.  So let’s talk about the food first.  //Morisushila.com.

“Maru”explaining the dinner menu, he also wrote out for us

A bottle of sake was chosen for our summer meal at Mori Sushi

Zensai (前菜, literally meaning “before a dish Japanese for an hors d’oeuvre.  Maru was so proud of the handmade tofu, which he called “freshly brewed from soybeans,” drizzled with a homemade Karasumi flakes.  Karasumi, salted mullet roe,  is dried in the sunlight. It may be named for the sumi (inkstick) blocks imported from China (Kara) for use in Japanese calligraphy. Karasumi is a high priced delicacy, usually served alone during sake.

Handmade tofu at Mori Sushi drizzled with  homemade karasumi flakes

The breathtaking Zensai (Kaiseki) plate turns out to be a summer garden of mirrored ingredients.  It contains homemade smoked fatty tuna taken; Sakura-ebi; Umaki (egg custard with gel); grilled Santa Barbara Spot Prawns in the middle; Take Sunomono; Satoimo Stick and slashed sayori.

The first plates of the omakase at Mori Sushi

Detail: Baby Peach and KinKan sweets on the Kaiseki Plate at Mori Sushi

Aka0dash: miso soup was served between courses.  The broth was so clear it mirrored the light fixture above.

Aka0dash: miso soup at Mori Sushi

Sushi, succulent and freshest of the fresh, included  Tai Kobujime; hokkaido scallop; raw octopus; suzuki (seabass); Aji (horse mackerel); Gindara (black cod); Renko-dai (orange snapper), sockeye salmon; Shimai0Aji (Jack Macketel); Akami (Blue fin tuna); toro (Flue fin fatty tuna, uni (sea urchin) and sardine.  We were carefully instructed which of the pieces to eat with soy sauce and which to eat on their own (I rarely use soy sauce unless directed).

Dessert is a whipped homemade tofu mousse.  The perfect frothy ending to a satisfying, light meal that also bookends the tofu starting the meal.

Tofu mousse dessert at Mori Sushi

A different tea replaced every vessel that was emptied during the meal. Each one was freshly brewed and chosen to pair with the course.

Morihiro “Mori” Onodera’s fanbase was intense, especially for his Omakase,  which included his famous slashed sayori . He was also known for making every patron feel he/she were the main ones.   Mori even invited us to watch him throw pots in the back courtyard at one time.  When it was announced that he decided to sell his Michelin-star business and leave for New York in 2011, the truth was that he had health issues. Former apprentice who became a partner and now owner, Chef Masunori “Maru” Nagano, took over Mori Sushi seven years ago.  Some say that Maru-san exceeds his former master, with Mori Sushi still delivering the best Sushi in the City of Angels 24.

Chef Masunori “Maru” Nagano

They did not stop him from making pottery and ceramics (he actually still makes custom plates for Providence and Melisse chef Morihiro Onodera had come out of retirement and returned to L.A. to make Sushi again at Shiki (Beverly Hills) in 2011, and currently at Inn Ann in the Japan House.  For details, please see: //localfoodeater.com/dine-like-a-world-diplomat-at-japan-house-las-inn-ann/

Mori Sushi, 11500 W. Pico Blvd., Los angeles, CA  90064 (310) 479-3939.  Hours: 6-10:30.  //Morisushila.com.

Dine Like a World Diplomat at JAPAN HOUSE LA’s Inn Ann

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Taro Araki, Executive Chef

(Gerry Furth-Sides) We knew immediately from the invitation for a new, modern kaiseki restaurant experience presented by INN ANN Los Angeles, JAPAN HOUSE, that it would be exquisite. We had already experienced the superlative food of first guest chef,  Taro Araki, Executive Chef for the Los Angeles Consul-General of Japan. //localfoodeater.com/kampai-love-sake-film/

(Photo credit: Wonho Frank Lee, Ryan Miller)

The new Japanese kaiseki concept at JAPAN HOUSE Los Angeles is named INN ANN or  “hidden retreat.”  Both the sleek, innovative new dining room and the cuisine are designed to encourage discovery and curiosity of Japanese culture, traditions, and rich heritage.   The jewel box of a 35-seat restaurant showcases an intimate, low gorgeous wood sushi bar and booths overlooking spectacular city views.

(Photo credit: Wonho Frank Lee, Ryan Miller)

A rotating series of Japanese chefs are being recruited to lead the performance kitchen, all  highly accomplished Michelin-starred chefs, emerging talent, and highly revered masters, to introduce diners to Japanese culinary techniques, ingredients, and sensibilities.  Chef Taro Araki ensues that patrons not only experience Japan with all five senses but dine like foreign dignitaries.

The aim of INN ANN’s “Discover Umami,” motto is to foster awareness and appreciation for the delicate cuisine and distinct flavors of Japan.  Chefs are chosen to introduce various styles of Japanese cooking and tradition.

Chef Araki’s traditional but unique kaiseki opening menu focuses on seasonal California ingredients and produce   The parade of very small, intricately prepared dishes reveals one breathtaking dish after another.

Zensai, or small appetizers, starts off the Japanese haute cuisine parade. A refined, regal bowl holds Yuba Sashimi (Layers of silky tofu skin made from soy milk); Saikyo (Miso Marinated Grilled Cheese); Sesame Tofu Croquette; Temari Sushi (the round saffron sushi); Ichimatsu (Salmon and nagaimo yam); Kobaku Shrimp (Shrimp in Dashi Jelly); Japanese Omelet with the most subtle echo of Truffle); Japanese Micro Vegetable Crudité, and Tosai (a shot of soy milk and broth seasoned with a spicy Veggie Mix).

Kaiseki intricacy is clearly present in the “checkerboard” Ichimatsu (Salmon and nagaimo yam)and the Kobaku Shrimp in jellied dashi.

The set omakase menus are available in classic original and vegetarian versions.  Meticulously crafted and artistically plated dishes interspersed with beef and fish/seafood guide the diner to a balanced umami experience.

Chef’s Choice SASHIMI 

Chef’s Choice SASHIMI features classic toro, salmon, yellowtail and Thai amberjack

MAIN DISH (choice of one)

Shabu Shabu (Kagoshima wagyu bef and vegetable hotpot)

SUSHI Course

Nigiri Sushi

Janie McManamon and Lamar, our wildly professional, knowledgeable, hospitable servers

Miso Soup

The “miso” hidden in the little lidded pot is a heavenly consume with a Silverback fish tail surprise

DESSERT

A Chestnut Crème Brûlée represents the Chef Araki’s French-Japanese sensibility.  His  Signature Orange Purin captures the fresh essence of “orange” even in a cooked dessert.

Chef Taro Araki’s signature Orange Purin at INN ANN.

The beverage program’s natural heavy focus shines on Japanese wines and spirits, including an extensive selection of rare sake, shochu, and Japanese whiskey in a thoughtful cocktail list curated to pair with the omakase dishes. Lamar suggested the most popular saké, MASUMI JUNMAI.  Our favorite was the KEN DGI SAKE, clear as a mountain stream and just as pure.

Miss Average Socialite (right) and friend shared our sushi counter experience

INN ANN reflects the best of Japan to immerse guests in the historic culture.  Dishes are  served on Arita-Yaki plates (the oldest version of Japanese porcelain), for example.   Lovely Japanese guest, Harouko, pointed out that even the ice buckets are actually historic Japanese rice bins.

Harouko in the green at the sushi counter

Chef Taro Araki, who has served as the chef to the Consul-General of Japan in Los Angeles for over a decade and earned honored the Excellency Award by Japan’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs in 2016, brings his decades of experience and culinary expertise to the opening omakese (set menu) concept, menus and execution.

Chef Taro Araki with his fishmonger from Wildlife Fresh Fish known for “hype quality”

The “hidden” location nestled within an intimate fifth-floor space at JAPAN HOUSE is easy to find — once you know where it is  — within the cavernous Hollywood & Highland location.

JAPAN HOUSE is an innovative, worldwide project with three hubs—London, Los Angeles, and Sao Paulo—conceived by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Japan. Kenya Hara is Chief Creative Director for the project, which seeks to nurture a deeper understanding and appreciation of Japan in the international community.

Newly opened Hollywood & Highland fifth floor inhabitant, INN ANN, around the corner of the sweeping row of shops, completes the two floor project of JAPAN HOUSE Los Angeles. The year-old second floor features a gallery space and shop. The fifth floor includes the east-facing INN ANN and event space along with a serene library, affording guests grand views of the city.

INN ANN at JAPAN HOUSE, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90028.  Hours:   Tuesday-Saturday from 5:30pm-10:00pm. Omakase menu (from $75-100). For more information, please visit the website or Facebook at Facebook.com/JapanHouseLA/.

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