(Gerry Furth-Sides) A take-out only version of Daniel Son’s marvelous sandwiches will star at Katsu Sando in Chinatown, DTLA, after Katsu Sando achieved so many followers at the local Sunday Smorgasburg. It is a bright light in the Los Angeles culinary scene even if it means that take-out replaces a more formal dining experience.
Our stamp of approval already goes to Chef Daniel Son’s usual four perfect versions of KATSU SANDO” “fried pork cutlet sandwiches” plus his own takes on nigiri. Even the honey Shokupan (white milk bread) is baked in-house. The sands began their run at Daniel’s Kura Sushi Sunset that is now shuttered during a remodel of the shopping center.
Chef Son will bring back his Japanese A5 beef katsu sando ($70) curry katsu plates, honey walnut shrimp sando, and curry chizu.
We wrote about Daniel Son, second-generation owner-chef, and Kura as one of the city most under the radar sushi attractions. //localfoodeater.com/korean-father-son-perfect-japanese-sushi-at-kura///localfoodeater.com/korean-father-son-perfect-japanese-sushi-at-kura/
The lowly sandwich has attained cult status in Japan. As is true of other culinary superstars that evolved from humble beginnings (ramen, pizza), like a brown bag lunch or snack. Japan owns a long history of the mastery of adapting and elevating imported food traditions. They even have a word for it: Yōshoku. This refers to any Western-style dish that has received a makeover suited to the local palate. Rigorous chef attention, that can amount to obsession is paid to the ingredients and technique.
The Katsu (cutlet) Sando (sandwich from sandwich ) traditionally consists of panko-breaded and deep-fried chicken, pork, beef, or vegetables served between two slices of fluffy white bread.
Meticulous, gracious Chef Daniel’s mission of honoring Katsu Sando at his pop up is to prepare the ultimate, katsu sandwich with traditional techniques. He uses Nama-Panko, freshly ground premium bread crumbs for a light flakey and crispy crust to the cutlets.
Chef Daniel cuts the crust off the pillowy Shokupan bread, making it the perfect textural contrast to the layers of panko-crusted ingredients and cabbage.
Even the smaller Wagyu beef sandwich is a satisfying few bites. The Wagyu shine, seared to perfection.
Chef Daniel became obsessed with the historic street food, Yōshoku translating into a Japanese twist on European cuisine while training at Tokyo ’s famed Nihonryori Ryugin. obsessed with Katsu Sandos while he was training at Nihonryori Ryugin in Tokyo, Japan. After long days in the kitchen, he would frequent the local convenient store where Katsu Sandos were his go-to “after work snack.”
Upon returning to the States, he had difficulty finding good-quality Katsu sandwiches and started to create his very own. His goal is to elevate the gem of the Katsu sandwich to its full potential starting with his L.A. patrons.
We loved the more traditional “no cheese” from the Selections. The Ton-Katsu Sando with Berkshire Pork was our favorite. We also liked the Kinoko-Katsu Sando with Portobello Mushroom.
Other choices: Ton-Katsu Sando (Berkshire Pork Katsu Sandwich) + Chizu (cheese) includes the Sando sauce (very much like the Harissa and mayo aioli we make at home), Shiro-waifu cabbage shreds, name-panko crispy Berkshire Pork Loin, a small pickle sliced, house-baked honey milk bread and aside of pickles with juice.
Kinoko-Katsu Sando (Portobello Mushroom Katsu Sandwich) + Chizu (cheese) includes the Sando sauce (very much like the Harissa and mayo aioli we make at home), Shiro-waifu cabbage shreds, name-panko crispy Portobello Mushroom, house-baked honey milk bread and aside of pickles with juice.
Tori-Katsu Sando (Jidori Chicken Katsu Sandwich) + Chizu (cheese) includes the Sando sauce (very much like the Harissa and mayo aioli we make at home), Shiro-waifu cabbage shreds, name-panko crispy Jidori a small pickle sliced, house-baked honey milk bread and aside of pickles with juice.
Daniel’s sister, Annie (above) serves the crowd. Menus are near the door; orders are taken at the register.
Katsu Sando in Chinatown, DTLA (Katsu Sando. 736 N. Broadway, Chinatown, Los Angeles, CA, hours, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. will expand in the coming weeks.)