LA Restaurants

New Zafran Pot Stirs Up Top Indian Fare in Culver City

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IMG_8985(Gerry Furth-Sides) Modest little  Zafran Pot has long outgrown its title of the “baby on the block of stars” (Venice Boulevard at Motor).  The are has been celebrated for authentic regional Indian food for decades with Mayura and Annapurna Cuisine nearby .  Owner-Chef Sneh Lata Gumidelli ‘s exceptional Hyderabad-style, savory biranyi ranks right up there with the best.

The name itself, Zafran (saffron) refers the spice that colors the rice in the famous dish. Nestled on the table next to it are Salan gravy and Raita sauce. This biranyi looks as if it is calming staring at the diners about to enjoy it.

The basmati rice soaks overnight and then is cooked on a very low heat.  Instead of the classic dough used to seal the pot, Chef Sneh uses aluminum foil.  In addition to organic, locally sourced ingredients, technique is key here.

Pumpkin seeds replace the more usual peanuts in Chef Sneh’s version, for example. After passing the rigorous Halal requirements, meats are marinated overnight in house-made  masala.   Unusual, enticing appetizers and dessert complete each authentic meal. IMG_8978Biranyi is to Indians what hamburger is to Americans or Lasagna is to Italians.  Everyone has his favorite – “the best”- version of this stuff of legend. Yet Hyderabad-style comes up most often as arguably the best in all of the India.  The key to the test of its unbroken, perfectly flavored long- grain rice is a historic slow-cooking dum technique in a completely sealed tub, plus the expertise in the seasoning and marination of the ingredients added to it.  

The history of Biryani dates back to as early as the fifteenth century when Mughals invaded India. (It only takes knowing they were descendants of Genghis Khan to get an idea of their power).  The word itself finds its origin in the Farsi word “Birian” which means “fried before cooking.” Improvised upon in various ways through the centuries, each region in India has its own distinct style of cooking, which often includes blending in local flavors.

Hyderabadi Biryani came to be so special due to a progressive ruler, Niaza-Ul-Mulk.  He not only introduced the royal recipe to the public, but started spreading it to other parts of the country, which in turn prompted local variations.

It was during this period that the famous Kacchi (mutton) Biryani was fine-tuned, primarily by introducing the technique of separately marinating the meat in all the herbs and spices before cooking it with the moderately done rice.

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Specialties are family recipes and popular dishes from different regions of India are on the menu.   Owner-Chef Sneh also knows what pleases diners.  When she cooked for a company that sold packaged dinners for families primarily  in the discerning Indian community, her food became so popular she was invited to demonstrate her work in several online videos.  She personally oversees every dish with one other cook in the kitchen.

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Chef Sneh may be the star chef of this little place but the beaming smile of her proud husband partner, Santosh is as wide as the room.   It is, in fact, Santosh who is from Hyderabad while Sneh is from Bangalore. IMG_8953The menu dutifully notes “it is cooked on dum for maximum flavor”  for the Hyderabad Dum Specialty Plate menu.  The list reads:Organic Chicken, Organic Lamb and Vegetable, all marinated in spices, yogurt, zafran (saffron).  “We put out the  Lamb Dum Biryani only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday,” Santoosh told us.  Word is spreading and already every table at Zafran Pot is fully booked on the week-ends.

IMG_9031The small menu mirrors the size of new Zafran Pot with new dishes debuted as they are perfected in the kitchen, such as Lamb Rogan Josh and Cauliflower because   Chef Sneh understands the universal appeal of flavors and textures.  Appetizers include crunchy Samosa and Pakoda.  Onions and a variety of  masalas fill the Vegetable and Egg Puffs.  The decadent Vada Pav ($4.95) (shown below), deep-fried mashed potato fritters inside pillowy mini-burger buns, just about make a full meal.   Add the snap of red onion, the tartness of lime and the bit of cilantro with it, and it also defines umami.

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Vada Pav hold deep-fried mashed potato fritters

IMG_8956Other Specialty Plates include non-vegetarian Curries served with White or Brown Rice or Naan ($10.95).   Locally sourced Halal chicken marinated over night is featured in the more uncommon Chicken Chops with gravy made of spinach, cilantro, onion and spiced with cloves and cinnamon.

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Khubani Ka Meetha with Ice Cream features Dried Apricots boiled in sugar syrup, served with ice cream ($4.95).  This house specialty is rarely found in local Indian restaurants.  The apricots are soaked overnight to remove traces of seeds.

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Zafran Pot, 310-838-2130, 10408 Venice Blvd. Culver City, CA 90232.
//www.zafranpot.com/
//www.facebook.com/zafranpot

Anar Indian Restaurant: Food Guided by The Heart

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(By Adréana Robbins) Anar reminds me of the quaint local canteens and hidden taverns I discovered living in Paris and Southern France. My parents and I felt most fortunate when we stumbled upon family-run bistros, offering the most inventive French Provençal, or Moroccan, or Vietnamese cuisine. Often a secret ingredient to a restaurant’s success was the talented couple behind it.

IMG_7264Sometimes the wife slaved away in the kitchen, other times the husband, and soon enough we became part of their family dynamic, feeling always welcomed like a long, lost relative. Anar has the same intimate feel and personal touch, as if you’re dining in someone’s private home.

Anar’s décor is tasteful with bright Indian tablecloths and fine art; a recent fresh coat of red-brick and mustard-yellow paint adds a festive touch to the dining room. Booths line the walls, which are perfect for romantic dinners, or a feeling of privacy. Large parties can easily be accommodated. IMG_7269

Our epicurean group sat at a comfortable, ample-sized wooden table. Being a guest, at a tasting lunch, I cannot comment on the service; however, since one of the dedicated owners is almost always present, I imagine the staff to be gracious with every client.

Second-generation restaurateur, Amir, and his wife, Janet, are involved in every aspect of the family business. Janet, with her El Salvadorian roots, and Amir, whose parents emigrated from Bangladesh, are the most hospitable pair. “I put love into my food and that makes all the difference,” says Amir. The restaurateur grew up in his father’s kitchen and began cooking at the age of 18. Amir’s father owns Anarkali, a popular Los Angeles Indian restaurant—open since 1983.

Staying true to Amir’s southern Bangladeshi roots, Anar offers a wide variety of seafood along with more standard northern Indian meat dishes. Meals often begin with the ubiquitous  Paneer and Onion Pakuras that are dipped in curry powder, turmeric, and deep fried in chickpea flour to give them their deep color and crunch. IMG_7203The Vegetable Samosas are stuffed with sweet, curried peas and potatoes. Each appetizer comes with a grouping of condiments: Chat Masala Onion Chutney, Mango Chutney, Raita and Cilantro Chutney.

IMG_7191The beef, lamb and chicken Tikkas have just the right touch of smoky char from being cooked in a tandoori oven.

Combination plates are popular and served in  generous portions. The platter comes with an accompaniment of traditional white basmati (to IMG_7243balance out the flavors).They have my favorite Saag Paneer; Anar’s spinach tastes exceptionally fresh without being overly salted.  Aloo Gobi, perfectly seasoned cauliflower and potatoes, and a standout Chicken Tikka Masala; the velvety texture and aromatic spices of Anar’s Masala is hands-down the best I’ve ever tasted. IMG_7214In addition, Anar makes their own paneer—a guarantee the cheese will always taste fresh, even after being cooked with onions and spices. Other dishes to try include Lamb Rogin Josh, sweet and succulent IMG_7240chunks of tender meat in a rich tomato sauce; Mixed Tandoori Grill, a generous serving of the appetizer version with bigger pieces of grilled chicken, beef and lamb. And for those who are especially hungry, the Chicken Biryani is hearty and flavorful: sautéed with onions, peas, turmeric and a touch of gheeIMG_7247
Fish lovers will appreciate the tender Salmon Tikka: boneless filets, marinated in yogurt, herbs and spices; it is one of the most popular on the menu. Shellfish aficionados should indulge in the plump Curried Mussels Masala, better quality and size (which matters in this case) than Bouchon Bistro in Beverly Hills. (Sorry, Thomas Keller, but Anar packs bigger muscles!) Prepared in the popular and fragrant Tikka Masala sauce, the blend of cinnamon, cardamom, Garam Masala, cream and sugar, allow the juicy muscles to melt in your mouth.

Ordering is simple from the well thought-out menu at Anar. However, the staff is more than pleased to add their special recommendations for the asking.  Since I adore seafood, Amir brought these dishes for my liking.  Every meal preference and spice level can be accommodated for the asking, too. Most of the dishes we had were mildly spiced, but we tasted one amped-up and chili-infused Vegan Tofu Masala, which would satisfy those with piquant cravings.

For beverages, the Nimbu Pani: fresh squeezed limes with ginger and mint is ultra refreshing.  Anar also makes a spiced Iced Black Tea, but neither of the drinks were my favorite. IMG_7228However, the third drink I tasted was the homemade freshly made Mango Lassi. And this drink took me back to a memory of swimming and sunbathing and waterskiing at a tropical lake near Acapulco, Mexico. It was as if I had just taken a bite out of a tree picked mango, juice dripping down my face, hot sun warming my skin, the young man beside me, tanned and ripped . . . well, I won’t go there, but it’s understandable why the drink is so popular, with its perfect balance of fruity sweetness and tartness from the plain yogurt. The drink is so popular that Anar gives it special attention for takeout orders.

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To guarantee freshness, like a private Beverly Hills juice club, the restaurant gives out plastic labeled bottles exclusively prepared for the mango creation. I took a bottle home and had a second Mango Lassi for dinner; it tasted just as delicious.

On that sweet and generous note, Janet takes pride in creating all of Anar’s desserts. IMG_7255She makes the not-to-be-missed Kulfi (Indian ice-cream) in chocolate, pistachio, coconut and mango. The chocolate is an Indian restaurant novelty, inspired by her Latin heritage and passion for chocolate. Indian cooks add rose water and cardamom pods to their desserts; Central American dessert makers add cinnamon only. Janet knows how to work with both flavors, making her creations exceptional and unique. Other more traditional treats include Gulab Jamun, soft milk balls soaked in syrup and rosewater, and Kheer, Indian rice pudding fragrant with cardamom and cinnamon.IMG_7254

Discovering new dishes and restaurants is a great perk of food writing; I’m especially grateful to have been introduced to Anar. The restaurant is proof that Los Angeles shopping arcades now hold some of the city’s best dining establishments. Even so, I’m embarrassed to say that I’ve lived in the Hollywood area for over eight years, have probably driven past the restaurant over a thousand times, and never noticed it. Tucked away in a congested strip mall on Cahuenga and Yucca, just south of Franklin, Anar can easily be missed. But what it lacks in glitz and glamor, it makes up for with its food and ample free parking. It’s also an ideal locale for pre or post theatre or concert dining. The Pantages and The Hollywood Bowl are in walking distance, and so is Sunset and Vine. Still, you must remember that you’re in the heart of Hollywood, so don’t let the busy liquor store nearby, or the strung-out rock-n-rollers, ambling about outdoors, or the lost and frazzled tourists—dissuade you from entering Anar—it’s a hidden treasure.

Moreover, I’m a huge fan of Indian culture and cuisine. And every opportunity I can, I like to read literature about India. One of my recent favorites is Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts, who wrote: “The simple and astonishing truth about India and Indian people is that when you go there, and deal with them, your heart guides you more wisely than your head . . .” So let Anar take you to the tastes of India—where you can be certain—the food the will feed your heart and soul.

Anar Restaurant, 1807 N. Cahuenga Blvd Los Angeles, CA, 90028 (323) 466-0422.
www.anarla.com

(Editor’s Note) Anar is part of the historic Anarkali Restaurant dynasty in Los Angeles, whose Chicken Tikka Masala and Mango Lassi  have become the benchmark for these ubiquitous dishes.   choudhurySecond generation Anar owners add to their legacy by bottling their fresh drinks to keep the taste pure ever since they became the the area’s new take-out sensation.

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Global Cuisine for a Global Cause at PPLA Food Fare 2016

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) The Inimitable Chef Celestine Drago’s wide smile (above) says it all about the event of the season, Planned Parenthood Food Fare,  now over a quarter century running.  And so does the playful grin of another regular icon, Chef Mary Sue Milliken of Border Grill (below). Chef Celestin0 was an honoree of the event recently, and Mary Sue and partner Susan Feniger were two of the first honorees a few years ago.  It’s been a joy both to help and enjoy supporting this great health/educational organization since I first did a Newsweek TV broadcast at the Sherman Oaks clinic!
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A variety of Global cuisine is part of the eclectic food station presentations at Planned Parenthood Food Fare, March 3,  2016. Over 100 chefs, restaurants and caterers serve dishes that cover European and  Asian comfort and fusion foods from appetizers to desserts plus gourmet dishes they prepare uniquely for  Food Fare. (below is Mario Marino, a 6th year participant, with the restaurant’s signature cheesecake)

2013-11-25 20.04.03The event is top notch because it is produced by the PPLA Guild, a group of ladies that spends the entire year preparing for it.  It is so much fun to see the third generation of “helpers” just as excited as their moms and grandmas.

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Planned Parenthood Food Fare is returning to Santa Monica’s Barker Hangar on Thursday, March 3, 2016. Some of last year’s favorite returning participants include Tatami Sushi, Momed, Angelini Osteria, Lucques, Il Piccolo Verde, Porta Via, Ayara Thai Cuisine, Marino Ristorante.  New restaurants include Mayura Restaurant, considered to be among one of the top 100 restaurants of all cuisines in Los Angeles.  An Catering by Crustacean will also participate.  Cappuccino Man and Kikori Whiskey will pour, along with other  coffee, wine, beer and spirits purveyors.

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More tempting than any high end boutique are the clothing and gift vendors at one end of the hall.  These days items that are not food-related are also shown.

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This is the perfect way to visit old restaurant friends and meet new ones in one day.  For example, Mayura restaurant is superb way to be introduced to a regional Indian food from the Kerela area.

IMG_2639Venice Boulevard in West Los Angeles, with its many blocks dotted with Indian restaurants, sweet and spice shops and even a major temple, has evolved into a “Little India” second only to Artesia. And Mayura Indian Restaurant has become the official star of the show, in part due to the blessing of a prominent LA Times writer’s top 100 list.

Welcome to your new savory bakery with dough starring in half the menu sections.  Perfect and unique dosas, uthappam, idly, naan, kulcha, parathas, porotta, poori, chapatti and roti, every one of which will make anyone forget the word, paleo. The treats are stuffed with or served with chutneys, veggies, potato, tamarind instead of more butter and jam.

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There are close to 20 Dosas, paper-thin crepes made of fermented rice and lentil batter, grilled to a crispy gold and prepared with an abundance of ghee.  To give an idea of how thin the dosa dough among their list of 22, the crepes are accurately labeled “paper.” (filled crepe like) Spring dosas are filled with carrot, pea, potato and other veggies.  The piped mashed potatoes may seem like too much “frosting on a starch cake,” but they to go together perfectly with the dosa.

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For a complete list of participating restaurants, beverage purveyors and vendors, and ticket, please visit www.pplafoodfare.com.  Tickets can also be purchased by calling (213) 284-3300. Advance purchase tickets for Food Fare 2015 are $150 for the daytime session (11:00 AM – 2:00 PM) and $250 for the evening session (6:30 PM – 9:30 PM). PPLA Food Fare 2016 will take place on Thursday, March 3, 2016 at Barker Hangar located at 3021 Airport Ave, Santa Monica, CA 90405. Sponsorship packages are available. For more information, please visit www.pplafoodfare.com.

About Food Fare & Planned Parenthood Los Angeles Guild
Food Fare began in 1979 with a cooking demonstration by Julia Child and has grown over the last 37 years to become one of Los Angeles’ oldest and most celebrated food events. An annual event, Food Fare is highly anticipated by food lovers, PPLA supporters and the general public as an opportunity to sample the best food and drinks LA has to offer. Food Fare is hosted by the Planned Parenthood Los Angeles Guild, a group of over 170 women dedicated to providing financial and volunteer support for PPLA.

About Planned Parenthood Los Angeles
PPLA’s 20 health centers throughout Los Angeles County provide care to nearly 150,000 women, men, and teens each year. Over 93% of the care PPLA provides is preventative, including life-saving cancer screenings, birth control, annual exams, and STD testing and treatment.  PPLA’s education and community outreach programs reach nearly 60,000 women, men and teens in Los Angeles County each year.

The Secret Global Menu at The Pub at Chino Hills

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) General Manager Chris Garcia may be the one to meet you at the door with a huge Chino “hill country” welcome but the spirit behind the extraordinary The Pub at Chino Hills belongs to owners Andrew Faour and Mathew Carpenter. The owner-chefs know how to entice diners to try sophisticated, global dishes with imaginative spice and flavor profiles by renaming them in a more mainstream format. They also include familiar and novel American fare and spirits on the menu.  Chris mentioned one, freshly popped corn drizzled with duck fat.  Our reaction matched all the other guests: “It’s drizzled with what?” And, like the current guests, we had to try it. Thank you chefs!  Movie theatre concessions, eat your heart out. The more you eat, the more you love it.


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wild boar quesadillaTrained, motivated staff,  excited about the food, also help pave the way for new dishes on the menu. When we asked about the novel dishes, such as the “Wild Boar Quesadilla,” (above and left) which brought me to the Pub in the first place, Chris exclaimed, “that’s exactly what we had in mind!” No matter what the dish would have been like, I was already 97% won over.

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For example, below is the Chicken Curry Salad — I can just hear “burb” diners murmuring, “curry.. Indian food… spicy.” I’ve heard this in Los Angeles. But after two and a half years, the neighborhood here is primed to try it.2016-02-03 13.39.08

What arrives in the colorful, glam, generous bowl is precisely (and not spicily) seasoned, grilled chicken, mango, apple, raisins, almonds on a bed of mixed greens dressed perfectly (every leaf coated with no dressing at the bottom).  The international yet friendly ingredients add up to texture, layers of flavor and a more than satisfying lunch or dinner dish.

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Below is the (Japanese) Kobe Beef Burger on an open face Ciabatta Bread, Aged White Cheddar, Sautéed Spinach & Onions with a Garlic Aioli.  The whimsical “stack” of onions on a wire also keeps them separated.  The “newspaper” on the wooden plank adds to the fun.  In the center is the bone marrow dressing (bone marrow dressing!) that they brought to try.

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Another dish that combines Italian flavors and a Mediterranean flare into a popular American dish is Chicken Pancetta Meatloaf, Ground Chicken and Pancetta with Minced Onions & Sun-dried Tomatoes with a Savory Tomato Glaze.  The dish is served with mashed potatoes and a garden of seasonal vegetables to make a complete meal.  What a novel, international idea for the chicken also used in many ethnic dishes combined instead with minced beef.

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From the outside, The Pub looks unassuming on its corner spot in a spanking clean but fairly typical strip mall, even with rolling hills around it. Developing  the idea of a gastropub took months of hard work, menu preparation, and remodeling. The variety of gourmet starters, appetizers, salads, and entrees are prepared with USDA Prime meats, fresh market fish, arugula and live butter lettuce among the salad greens and some of the worlds finest cheeses.

All the food complements a list of 20 draft beers and over 20 bottled or canned beers, ranging anywhere from local hefeweizen to European-style dark ales. Along with is a selection of international wines and exclusive spirits, along with The Pub’s original, signature cocktails.

Dishes have big, bold flavors, even in  their customizable classic sandwiches and more unusual buffalo, and salmon burgers. Dessert options include house- made cookies, Heath bar brownies and a variety of gelatos.

It isn’t surprising that it all really started when Andrew Faour, who grew up in an Arab household, where “delicious food was always cooking in the house” realized his passion for food even as a youngster. After graduating with a business degree from Azusa Pacific University, he added a degree from the Le Cordon Bleu in Hollywood.  There he met teacher Mathew Carpenter.   Several years later, the two teamed up, witih Matthew as his co-owner and co-chef, to “create their dream culinary experience.” They utilized Matthew’s culinary expertise with Andrews business savvy to recreate a classic British gastropub with imaginative fine dining and high-end craft beers, wines and spirits at practical prices.

The whole turned out to be much more than the sum of its parts. The appeal was focused on locals, but has achieved destination dining status. We drove out to the Pub on the basis of the more unusual menu items.   I was at a military luncheon in San Juan Capistrano last week-end, seated next to a fire station cook, who knew his food. And he knew The Pub!  An oasis in a food desert!  The gourmet firefighter also commented on the spacious, private side veranda shown below.

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Faour was as impressed with Matthew’s “natural skill and insight of food as his work ethic and and know-how.” Chef Matt’s impressive restaurant experience ranges from Bacar in San Francisco to Heston Blumenthals’ The Fat Duck in Bray, England.

Andrew further developed his skills by interning at several restaurants, such as the internationally- acclaimed The Bazaar and XIV.  He worked seamlessly with Executive Chef Matt at the instantly uber-popular MoMed in Beverly Hills, where Matthew was  founding chef who created the extraordinary modern Mediterranean menu. No question it was the food that “made” this stark, dark, impersonal, “order-at-the-counter” place. We went there regularly, especially for their lamb burger, and loved to join customers on the small porch, loving our food and complaining about  service. MoMed’s food also achieved line-worthy status at every local elite food event.

Next, Andrew and Matthew became partners, on a mission to open a restaurant offering gourmet quality food on the go.  Then the opportunity for The Pub location nearly fell into the co-owners hands. Located right off of the Pine Avenue exit from the 71 freeway, a string of failed restaurants had haunted the location.  When the focal point of the dining area turned out to be a large bar, they added quality drinks to their concept.

“It wasn’t instant success,”  recalled Chef Matt. “When we first opened we had an aggressive menu with a list of dishes that could require a sophisticated food vocabulary,” he explained.  “One example was the fairly simple Braised Beef Cheek in Sugo (Italian for sauce, each region with its own version, in some areas known as Bolognese or ragu). The pasta we served it over was a pappardelle.  Yet for the first two months, all we sold were hamburgers.  So we changed the name of the Braised Beef Cheek dish to ‘Pappardelle with Bolognese Sauce.’  And guests started ordering it.  We didn’t really change the dish.  We changed how we sold it and also how the servers explained things to the customers.”

Summed up Matt, “I think when we opened we were a little too much for Chino Hills!  But after two and a half years, we are very blessed to have developed a terrific client base, a much more adventurous one.  They know us and they trust us.  I’ve turned people on to sweetbreads, duck chorizo, and I could probably even put foie gras on the menu and they would try it.  Now I ‘m able to push my chefs to do more adventurous versions of dishes. Now we use cured duck instead of ham in our BLT;  we brine our own turkeys and roast them in house.  It adds layers of flavor to the dish and is part of my opportunity to introduce new spice and flavors. ”

Chef Matt’s ethnic inspiration comes from “traveling the world, especially the middle east and southeast Asia.”  He adds, “One of the beauties of French culinary technique is being able to try dishes in other countries and be able to say, ‘Oh, here is the basic French braise and the cooks added….’and I’ve been able to prepare that dish, and others in the same way.”

The Pub’s high standards cover front of the house, too, with a team of experienced staff.  As my local guest, educator, Dr. Linda Hanson, said, “they understand critical thinking. They listen. They give thoughtful answers.  Manager Chris Garcia was not only warm and friendly, absolutely giving the impression that he was delighted to work there, but he knew the food and the story. What he did not know, he found out for us.

He also knew his neighborhood. When we left, we noticed a Taco Tuesdays sign on the front walk.  He laughed and told us that the owner-chefs of The Pub at Chino Hills didn’t think it would fit into their gourmet menu.   But they allowed him to give it a shot, he recounted, and it worked. “We welcome friends, families, and everyone alike!” reads the menu. And it is true.

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Meanwhile the closest thing in Los Angeles is Souk Shawarma downtown, the only place in the U.S. where you can find wood-burning shawarma with an unconventional (yet traditional) horizontal rotisserie.  Chef Matt did say that there are plans in the future for the gastropubs in other neighborhoods named after the area, such  The Pub in Encino Hills.   I dream about it now.

The Pub at Chino Hills, 5771 Pine Avenue, Chino Hills, CA 91709, (909) 597-2224. //www.thepubatchinohills.com/

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Ancient Chinese Products in new “Shroom Shakes

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FullSizeRender 3(Gerry Furth-Sides) Leading the way to a new mushroom shake fad, celebrities are following health enthusiasts – West Hollywood and Brentwood, wouldncha know it – to LA juice bars to get their daily dose to help them glow and detox.  While mushrooms have always been known to provide enormous health benefits and taste wonderful in cooked savory dishes, the idea here is to insert them in a power powder form into shake drinks rich, and mask the taste with popular fruits as pineapple and banana.

Beaming and Earthbar have added Mushroom Matrix, Carter’s mushroom powders, to their juice bar menu recipes and they can also be added as a boost to any juice or smoothie. The powders are a powerful addition to any juice or smoothie and since they are unflavored and do not disrupt flavors, you are only getting their incredible benefits.  Earth Bar founders, Bernie and Noah Bubman are impressed with the following so far.

FullSizeRender“Mushrooms are an ancient superfood that not only have amazing benefits for immune health, but are now emerging at popular juice bars as a boost for energy, recovery, sports performance and beauty & anti-aging enhancers,” says mushroom expert Sandra Carter, who works with Steve Farrar to develop the drink powders.

And the mushrooms are startling in their beauty and grandeur.  Shown below are the Turkeytail:

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Medicinal wonders such as Cordyceps, Reishi (the rimmed-red beauty shown below), ReishiKing Trumpet and Maitake haven’t been known to have an appealing flavor but of course have amazing health benefits. Carter realized that people were becoming capsule fatigue and wanted to create a product that makes adding wellness to your daily routine as simple as adding 1 tsp of organic mushroom powders to your favorite juice or smoothie. So she began grinding down medicinal mushrooms into unflavored powders that can be added to virtually any beverage or dish. (Cordyceps shown below)

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Lion’s Mane shown below.
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“Mushrooms are an ancient superfood that not only have amazing benefits for immune health, but are now emerging at popular juice bars as a boost for energy, recovery, sports performance and beauty & anti-aging enhancers,” says mushroom expert Sandra Carter.  “In today’s day and age, people are becoming extremely insightful about what they are putting into their bodies and they want to make sure that it is not only nourishing, but also beneficial for their overall wellness. They are are award about Chinese medicine and want to live that lifestyle so they read about it and use the same foods.”

Andre’s Italian – First White Tablecloth to Go Casual 50 Years Ago

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Arrive 15 minutes before the 11:00 AM opening and there is already a zigzag line of customers forming, eyeing  new arrivals. The place does 800 covers a day during the week-end, and that’s a lot even considering the cafeteria style service.  The phenomenal host and manager, Aron Celnik is already behind the cash register overseeing the dining room.DSCN3930

Andre’s Italian Restaurant was conceived as a simple idea: provide wholesome and gratifying Italian food in a relaxed casual atmosphere at prices every family could afford.

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Born in northern Italy, Chef Andreone received his formal training at the famed Le Cordon Bleu culinary school in Paris, France. As a young chef, Andre emigrated to the United States and from the time of his arrival worked for several top rated dining establishments of the time. In 1959 he opened a full service restaurant named Andre’s of Beverly Hills on a posh corner near La Cienega’s “Restaurant Row.” It quickly came to define what is now known as “Continental Cuisine” The food was billed as “Continental Cuisine” at the, a phrase it seems was used for what we call Mediterranean today in order not to scare off people who might not be familiar with Italian food. That’s because when Andre’s opened its doors , spaghetti and pizza were just starting to become popular.

Chef Andreone’s eponymous restaurant was a huge critical and popular hit. At the same time he quickly developed a reputation and earned numerous awards for having the most reasonably priced good food in a full service restaurant in Beverly Hills.

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It was so long ago when a date took me to Andre’s fine dining on a date, then considered “the” place in Beverly Hills, all I remember – as though it was yesterday – was the ritual and what I was wearing (A “little black dress” with matching short jacket lined in teal, and high heels, of course.  But, ah, what impressive ritual!   First to arrive was the huge platter of antipasti— then a salad – then spinach noodles with red sauce – then the entrée (I’m sure I chose meat) and finally profiterole dessert, always on the house.

DSCN3771Chef Andre’s philosophy of providing his customers with value played a big part in his decision to open the more casual neighborhood Andre’s in 1963 and see through his vision of how every family could enjoy a healthy and satisfying meal together without having to “break the bank.”

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It did not bother Andreone a bit when critics began writing about the same quality food at both places with a major price different difference in price, with some patrons joined into the discussion. DSCN3919And he doesn’t even remember when one day about six limousines with secret service men inside converged on the Town  to clear the way for Robert Kennedy!

DSCN3914Only a gelato case (and recently an espresso machine) was added in the back through the years.  Andres at the Mart grew from a small Italian cafeteria to a sprawling double front cafe with ample  patio seating.  The place goes full tilt every single day with diners moving down a line with their trays at such a quick pace DSCN3762there is barely time for new customers to look at the blackboard menu over the set up section just inside the door.  There are daily specials (osso bucco on Tuesday!) and wine and beer are in the fridge at the front.
Watching the cooks with their efficient movements in the open kitchen are a symphony – and runners filling the huge pots and tower of plates behind the counter. And still offering very good pasta, almost all of it homemade in the back, and pizza at rock bottom prices. DSCN3867Since noodles are a mainstay of Asian cultures, Korean faces have popping up more and more at Andres.

Only Andres in the Town and Country Mart remains today. Andre’s declined in popularity throughout the eighties. A decade later it barely made news when it was sold to new owners who rebranded it as Andre’s La Trattoria di Beverly Hills but lacked Andreone’s skill at running it. A string of new owners and remodels later and the original site has become a rental space.   Andreone looks down, raises his eyebrows and shakes his head at the thought. He explains that after working 7 days a week, 12-14 hour days, and 40 plus years of property appreciation, Andre decided that he would be wise to rent out the premises and devote a little extra time to his casual eatery style 
Now Andre can be found every day (at least when he’s in town – he has homes in Canada and Italy for summer and winter) behind the stove and greeting his devoted customers – and making pasta in the back checking the pots he himself designed so they could be moved up and down on a pulley system.

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The family stayed in the business. Grand niece (He married my grandfather’s sister, Stephanie, told us that her dad, who had been helping run the business almost since it opened recently retired

DSCN3760The ghost still shows up on maps and restaurant guides as Andre’s of Beverly Hills even though that hasn’t been the name of the business in that building for more than a dozen years.

Andre’s, (323) 935-1246, 6332 W. Third Street in the Town and Country mall across from Farmers Market. Andre’s is located inside a little courtyard a few doors to the east of the Whole Foods Market, and yes, K-Mart to east.

TART Sweetens the American Regional Menu with Sorghum

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2015-12-30 14.48.05 (1)Even knowledgeable foodies may anticipate that the “sorghum” in  Chef Keith Shutta’s Butternut squash sorghum “risotto” on his new TART Restaurant menu is a syrup. But when the chef presented the dish, it turned out to be the grain that the chef pops from tiny, globular grains of white sorghum to make a king of miniature popcorn, and that looks exactly like popped corn, pops tiny, globular grains of white sorghum to make a kind of miniature popcorn. The whimsical pops add an original spark to the layers of flavors in the dish of roasted butternut squash, fried sage, popped sorghum and parmesan.

The Butternut squash sorghum “risotto” is one of the robust American regional favorites. Another labeled “snack” is the old-fashioned, Deviled Ham and Eggs – here with Fried onion ringlets on top. It’s perfect for the restaurant that sits inside the historic Farmer’s Daughter Motel.

A beautiful Roasted Beet with Avocado Mousse, features puffed grains (here are the grains again!), shaved baby turnips, oranges, bulls blood and white balsamic vinaigrette.  “Bulls blood,” beet microgreens with a delightful hint of beets, are not as bitter as other common microgreens. With bright red stems, and both red and green leaves, they are tender, sweet and have a beet-like flavor.

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Another original American regional seasonal plate that celebrates both winter and the coming spring is a Crispy skinned “angle eye” with creamed mushrooms, fried rapini leaves, baby leeks and Atomic horseradish butter.  

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A dish in the Shared section that could appeal year-around is the new Smoked trout dip with shaved celery, grilled peppers, radish sprouts, Ritz crackers and Crystal hot sauce.

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                                     A Little History

Sorghum is long associated with the rural south and, in fact, at the turn of this century Southern chefs paid it some attention when they were working with historic ingredients.   But the idea of eating sorghum as a grain or in flour form itself itself is still, well, exotic…. Exotic in the same way that dandelion or collard greens, arugula and couscous were “exotic” although they were used in kitchens for centuries.

6sorghumEthiopiaUCBerk.img_assist_custom-270x186The group of nutrition and flavor-packed grains is so old it’s considered an “ancient” grain along with amaranth, quinoa and the latest foodie fad, freekeh. Until now most of it ended up as fuel or animal feed. But recently, domestic farmers, chefs and consumers have recently started appreciating what African and Indian cooks have known for years: that grain sorghum is ridiculously easy to grow, healthy (high fiber! no gluten!) delicious, with a nutty, complex flavor and dozens of culinary possibilities. Sorghum used to be a major player in ancient trade routes like the Silk Road, but in modern times, it’s sadly been relegated pauper’s food.”   Now it seems everyone’s getting into the act. South Carolina’s High Wire Distilling  recently rolled out a deep amber sorghum whiskey using grains from a Mennonite farm in Central Tennessee.

Chef Keith told us that sorghum is “the third-largest cereal grain in the country, fifth in the world – with the U.S. being the top exporter, accounting for 75% of global trade. Sorghum grain is prized in today’s environment since it is drought tolerant and resistant to mycotoxins and fungi. Most of it is grown in the area around the southern parts of both Nebraska and Texas.

Versatile sorghum provides food, feed and fuel. In Africa and parts of Asia, sorghum is primarily a human food product; it is used mainly for livestock feed and in a growing number of ethanol plants in the U.S. – until now. (That’s a picture of sorghum being grown in an Ethiopian field.)

Sorghum has an edible hull like some other grains, is commonly eaten with all its outer layers, thereby retaining the majority of its nutrients.  Sorghum also is grown from traditional hybrid seeds and does not contain traits gained through biotechnology, making it nontransgenic (non-GMO). Research is now being done on the positive impact of the sorghum hull on human cardiac health and its ingredients that may have cholesterol-lowering capability

Sorghum improves the texture of recipes and digests more slowly due to its lower glycemic index, so it sticks with you a bit longer than some other flours or flour substitute

(//tartrestaurant.com) is nested in a sort of barnyard collage of historic buildings inside the iconic Farmer’s Daughter Hotel in the historic Fairfax District in L.A., 115 S. Fairfax Avenue, Los Angeles, Ca  90036, (323) 556-2608

Farmer's Daughter Hotel Courtyard

CARDAMOM INDIAN RESTAURANT -Los Angeles

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Articles by gerry furth-sides

Cardamom Indian Restaurant – Review- When “New and Improved” is Actually New and Improved

Cardamom at your service with a smile

Cardamom at your service with a smile

Cardamom Indian Restaurant is not one but two bright Los Angeles stories.  The first is of a popular neighborhood cafe (India’s Oven) smoothly taken over with continuity and also updated. It is when “new and improved” is new and improved.

For the neighborhood it is walking distance and delivery service by Clorder is also available.  To introduce the public to the new fare, an express set lunch ($11.95) is served with onion piaza, popadom, chutney, vegetable of the day, saffrom pilau, naan, raita and choice of entrée.

One of the eight naans from the famous Tandoor

One of the eight naans from the famous Tandoor

The service is impeccable and effortless.  And well it should be.  Not only has Cardamom partner and wine expert, Nasir Syed, had years of experience at Gordon Ramsey’s chic table restaurant here in Hollywood, but he started his restaurant career at Indian’s Oven as a server when he first arrived in the United States from Bangladesh in 2000.  Nasir told us the story of how the owners of the 33 years old establishment approached him to manage the original when they recently planned to reture, and how  how he and partner/brother-in-law, Badrul Chowdhury, eventually took over completely.

The second story is that the completely updated restaurant has roots in London, a la Mr. Chows’, with all of the sophisticated UK experience put to good use.  Nasir and Badrul  decided to expand upon the original 33 year-old establishment menu by including dishes from all regions of India.  The name itself, Cardamom,honors the spice grown in the fertile mountain region of Kerala, Indian which is used in the dishes, along with others of this famous area.  Next they enlisted Badrul’s uncle, Chef Manju Choudhury, a successful a London restaurateur who operated 32 locations at one point.  After spending months creating the new menu and training the kitchen staff, uncle turned the kitchen over to Chef du Cuisine Badrul, and makes periodic visits.

The double storefront features a brand new look from floor to ceiling, contemporary, colorful and upbeat even though it sports snowy white tablecloths.  Brightly painted party-orange steel girders punctuate the open, high ceilings.  It is the vision of international artist and restaurant designer, Arshad Chouhan, who even painted the large wall art pieces.  The entrance leads to a bar area and small number of tables on one side and a white tablecloth dining room on the other (total about 60).

After showing us around, we were seated at the table and offered a trio of trio of Tamarind Chutney, Mango and Onion Chutney and Mint Yogurt.  It was served with papadum fresh out of the oven, extraordinary because of its weightlessness and intense flavors at the same time.

A spirited Cardamom greeting with Vouvray

A spirited Cardamom greeting with Vouvray

Nasir came out with a bottle of Brédif Vouvray Classic 2012 he presented to the table.  As with all his suggestions for wine pairings throughout the meal, he offered a description of the wine and an explanation of how he thought it might bring out the dish.  The Bredif Vouvary  has the reputation of being very much in demand because it is so “perfectly balanced it can be served now or in 50 years to come.

Cardamom appetizer plate

Cardamom appetizer plate

With the Singara appetizer plate came a choice of Domaine Michel Girault Sancerre La Silicieuse 2012(less sweet, higher minerality), which actually worked best with the dish deep with flavors and the fried foods, such as the Punjabi style veggie packets, served with a date and tamarind chutney.  Nasir explained that the little parcels were smaller than standard so they didn’t fill you up with dough. It worked.

Jhinga Koliwada, Mumbai's wildly popular tiger prawns

Jhinga Koliwada, Mumbai’s wildly popular tiger prawns

The table’s all around favorite, Jhinga Koliwada, crunchy flash-butterflied, flash-fried prawns with just enough heat to linger, turns out to be a wildly popular Mumbai favorite.  It is marinated in ginger, garlic and spiced flour paste.

Pappadum is only the preview of  Cardamom’s intense, delicate breads, an indication of the care and refinement that goes into the food.  If the bread tastes richer and smokier, it is because the tandoor oven atCardamom is powered by charcoal, not gas.  No less than eight naans, with some filled, have to be described as crisp and yet dewy moist at the same time, including the Peshwari Naan (coconut, sultanas, dates and nuts), which brings out the best in spicy meats.  It was perfect with the Kayberi Gosht Bhuna,lamb tempered with ginger and coriander prepared in a tomato, onion, garlic sauce.

It also worked with poultry, here in a typical southern Indian dish with coconut sauce, Chetinad Murgh,known as the classic Chicken tikka.

Jhinga Patia, tiger prawns  presented in a showy spiced red sauce, also heat without that spiky pepper effect. Again, Nasir presented two wines from which to choose, the light, acidic French red, Chanson Le Bourgongne Pinot Noir 2011, that on its own tasted a little thin, and yet paired better with the dish than the fuller bodied Malbec, Salentein Reserve 2013.

The dramatic Jhinga Patia prawn dish

The dramatic Jhinga Patia prawn dish

The chef's special recipe fluffy Basmati rice

The chef’s special recipe fluffy Basmati rice

Zafran Pilar is one of the six rice on the menu, a fluffy basmati rice cooked with colorful saffron.  It complemented without overpowering the other dishes.

Gajar (carrot) ka Halwa, a warm grated carrot confection comes with silky, rich ice cream and a reminder of the suble sweetness of carrots.  The Gulab Jamun includes balls of Malai ice cream – milk ice cream- so rich and creamy in and of itself that it requires no additional flavorings. I’m ready to stock a truck and get rolling in the streets or at the beach with the desserts alone.

Malai ice cream - pure flavor, pure milk

Malai ice cream – pure flavor, pure milk

Gajar (carrot) ka Halwa - subtle, satisfying

Gajar (carrot) ka Halwa

 

Cardamom, 7233 Beverly Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90038 (323) 936-1000 and www.cardamomLA.com. Order online for pickup or delivery below.

 

BOMBAY CAFE Celebrates 25 Years of Indian Comfort Food

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2014-08-15 16.23.14Inside quarter-century-old Bombay Café in west Los Angeles, the cheerful, brightly colored dining room is intact.  The  same lovely watercolor paintings parade across one wall.

So much care was given to the original kitchen and its refined, contemporary Indian cuisine at Bombay Café, that the first cooks were brought from Punjab.   The current chef, Kuldeep Chamal, cooked with Neela for many years.

The elegance of the dishes, cooked in small batches with precise amounts of spices, is what has always distinguished the food at Bombay Café.   It is as full of healthy, natural flavors as it of color.  Think cumin, cardamom, coriander and turmeric.  DSCN7374 (1)

Going along with the modern Indian tradition, Mr. Singh explains,” Authentic Indian cuisine is already natural and healthy on its own.  Our most common cooking method is in the tandoor oven, where fat cooks off naturally.  All of our meats are trimmed of visible fats and we don’t use hydrogenated oils.”

Just describing the food and looking at images is all it takes to start anyone’s mouth watering.  Most entrees come with a combination of small dishes surrounding the main item, little treasures on their own.  The perfect summer cooler to the dishes is a refreshing glass of lemon ginger lemonade.

On the table to start with Pappadums, the light, airy irregularly shaped crackers, for breaking and dipping into  sauces.  The highly flavored lentil pappards are imported from India and toasted in the Bombay Cafe tandoor.  The wheat-free rice pappards pair perfectly for chutneys, the classic Indian condiment.

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Other tandoor-baked breads to be eaten solo, dipped into sauce or with a dish, include the Tandoori Roti and Chapati and the irresistible, Classic Naan, fluffy, puffy and yet chewy, which can also be ordered with Garlic or onion.

Popular appetizers include the Samosa, fried to a golden crisp, stuffed with potatoes and peas.  Crumb-coated shrimp with lime are crispy and tangy at the same time.

Garlic Naan stars in the Chicken Tikka Masala, boneless chicken cooked in a mildly spiced creamy tomato sauce. This is the centerpiece dish on the plate.  Around it is Sev Puri (crackers made from garbanzo flour) white rice, hot Cauliflower with cilantro and Channa Masal (chick peas).

Vegetarian dishes abound. For example, Potato Dosa is a rice crepe with potato masala featuring Dal Sambar – lentils cooked south Indian style, flavored with tamarind. Little dishes on the combination plate include coconut Chutney with sour cream; Dal Sambar  – Lentils cooked Southern Indian style with tamarind flavor; Updam (rice dough Patty), grilled with green chile, onion and fresh tomato; and a dish with pickled carrot and cauliflower, sprinkled with black onion seeds.

“Indian street food on a plate” best describes the combination Thalis. First up is the whimsical Lamb Frankie which comes wrapped in an egg crepe , filled with pieces of lamb in a rich dark sauce or stew, “masala,” and onions, wrapped in a homemade egg-washed tortilla.

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Carrot, cauliflower and pickle are in one little container; the luscious and cooling and soothing Raita in another is prepared with cucumber yogourt and julienned cilantro leaf.

In another corner of the plate is Kuchumber (traditional Indian version of the chopped middle eastern salad), made of tomato, cucumber, onion, lemon and cilantro salad.  Other Frankie options are chicken or vegetarian. Cauliflower Frankie, filled with gobi sabzi two chutneys and lime-cilantro and  onions.

Bombay Café offers a special curry daily. Mr. Singh explained that each curry tastes completely different from one another.  The reason? Indian cuisine, curries are made by braising the cuts of meat or poultry  – lamb, beef, chicken- along with the spices so that it picks up the flavor of the protein.

There are also burgers & subs on the menu!  The Aaloo Tikki Burger is a delicious combination of Indian aloo Tikki in a shallow-fried soft bun, and a Chicken Tikka Sub, boneless chicken cooked in a mildly spiced creamy tomato sauce in a submarine sandwich.  2014-08-15 16.12.42 (1)Breaded shrimp – light with a refreshing touch of lime to the diner’s taste.

And to win you over before the meal starts and after it ends, there is a generous lot in the back with complimentary parking.

DSCN7387 DSCN7436The large, airy space is perfect for festive parties, and the food is served in elegant, copper pots.  There is plenty of room for dancing and celebrating, and the buffet style ensures that all guests are satisfied with their meal.

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Bombay Café 12021 West Pico Blvd.  Los Angeles, CA 90064 (310) 473-3388

//www.bombaycafe-la.com/. Order online for pickup or delivery below.