Mario Marino

Happy Brand New National Catering Day! Ethnic from Ancient to Contemporary

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Catering has a rich history, dating back to the 4th millennium BC in China. Later, Ancient Greeks made catering a trade by offering services at their inns and hostels which lasted into the Roman Empire. Then, centuries, catering was primarily in the form of feasts and banquets for Kings and Noblemen.

Catering in America dates back all the way to our country’s beginning. In 1778 a ball in Philadelphia, catered by Caesar Cranshell, was the first major catering event in the United States. As it evolved from households who could afford it, think Downtown Abbey, into a commercial business, the one constant was the commitment to deliver the highest quality food and services as agrees upon with the host.

A huge thank you to Food Service Direct who has has partnered with National Today to mark May 24 on the calendar as National Caterers Appreciation Day. 

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In 1778, Caesar Cranshell’s ball event was the first major catering event in the United States.

By 1820, catering became a respectable and profitable business. It was mainly founded by African Americans. This is not surprising in terms of understanding how to please clients, but in the business opportunities afforded this group. However, in the early years of catering many caterers were waiters and other restaurant staff.

And in the 1840’s, Robert Bogle is known as the “Originator of Catering”, he made it possible for the industry to personalize what they wanted catering to be. Many catering businesses began to partner and combine with their restaurants.

Robert Bogle is known as the “Originator of Catering”
Tribute to Robert Bogle, “Originator of Catering”

Even by the mid-twentieth century, catered events tended to center only in hotels and in the homes of the well to do. The brilliant, whimsical Ludwig Bemelman’s described hotel catering in HOTEL BEMELMANS. Anthony Bourdain loved it so much he republished it.

Bemelman’s wrote in the chapter, “If You’re Not a Fool,” The most difficult part of the hotel business is the proper management of its banquet department. A restaurant is a song compared with it….. But a banquet department is an ever-changing business… The host will forget all that has been good about it and mention only the bad…. Yet there are a thousand things to go wrong… All this work requires eight hours a day of solid thinking, and as yet only the preparations have to me made. Then comes the conduct of the parties themselves.” How true.

The brilliant, whimsical Ludwig Bemelman’s described hotel catering in HOTEL BEMELMANS, an Anthony Bourdain favorite.
Ludwig Bemelmans’s Hotel Bemelmans, a wonderful read and insight into catering

By the 1970’s more women starting to enter the workforce. This included catering out of their homes. This cottage industry grew into Full-Service Catering companies as they started to legitimize their business practices and embrace new styles of cooking.

The 1980’s turned into the decade of excess. Catering companies not only provided special occasion food for parties, but they could create sophisticated table décor and lavish flower and room decorations.  Serving table could actually be real sandboxes or salt blocks .  After-dinner entertainment could be personalized fireworks or circus performers.  Event planners coordinated parties for clients from two to 2000.  I worked with Along Came Mary, Inc, whose quarter million dollar party at Sony Studios was a completely imported New Orleans Mardi Gras.

Let me introduce master caterer, Roberta Deen, opening chef of Along Came Mary,Inc,;Capers Catering Company owner, preferred caterer of Bon Appetit. 

Capers Catering Company owner-chef Roberta Deen (also a LocalFoodEater.com contributor)

Roberta brought to her clients boldly flavored, authentic ethnic dishes. No internet. Here is her English tea party and arroncini. Her Moroccan bastilla was also. Barbra agreed).

No financial holds barred, fullservice catering companies of the time special occasion party food, created lavish flower arrangements, table and themed room decor in homes and created movie premieres at the Motion Picture Academy as extravagant as the film themselves.

No party was complete without a crudite in the last century. Here is Roberta Deen’s contemporary take on it

When the 1990’s began, most restaurants at the time considered caterers inferior and competitive at the time.  However, after restaurants took a reeling blow to business when the government, in an attempt to raise taxes, ruled that luncheons, specifically cocktails, were no longer tax-deductible.  

Once restaurants realized they had another revenue stream right in house, many restaurants added“Catering” departments” to their business models to enhance their brand.

Chef-owner Ciro Marino and other ethnic restaurants, however, has offered catering since the 1960’s with gold old- fashioned style and hospitality. He catered to celebrities, but stuck to the dress rules. It is legendary that after he sent Sono Bono away because he didn’t want to wear a jacket, the singer went home and wrote, “I’ve Got You, Babe.”

Today son’s Sal, chef, and Mario, host operate the restaurant. They have been in the restaurant since they were kids. It feels like every meal is catered b because you can get off-the-menu dishes and a special table every time you go there.

Chef-owner Ciro Marino offered in-house catering since the 1960’s. This “back room” in Marino’s was a Frank Sinatra hangout.

Appetizers, décor, bartenders, and servers are some of what may be included in social event catering packages. And they change from party to party. These days added to this is a long list of a client and guest dietary needs, allergens, preferences and cultural beliefsl.

One experienced, dedicated professional who has learned the business from a restaurant and private party point of view is acclaimed Cynthia Mamukari who owns Taste and Company. It defines this classic full-service catering tradition. I’ve known perfectionist Cynthia since she was Executive Chef at wildly popular, cosmopolitan Joe Allen’s and Orso Restaurants (I loved) in the 90’s, and she lives it.

Pastry chef Nicole sets up the buffet
Lead staffer Christine fluffs up the salads and sets up the buffet on risers.

You know every single detail will be done just right, the ingredients are the finest and it will be delicious with Taste and Company.

Taste and Company at work

The surprise is how much fun she makes a party for every guest- long-time or just started staffer. That’s creative, over achiever, chef Derek with her at the end of the evening (and 12th of a 16-hour stint).  

Taste and Company Owner Chef, Cynthia Mamukari and Chef Derek Taylor

During the 2020′s Ethnic food continues to take front stage. This includes includes the communal feel. At this joyous 16th birthday party by Banana Leaf, for luminescent Neha Sambangi, the only formal element were the fashions. Event Planners here were mom,Satya, and friends, shown here, who seamlessly coordinated dance rehearsals, games and decor. 

Everyone was made to feel welcome and happy. Guests could eat whenever they liked at a generous buffet with labeled dishes from Banana Leaf Restaurant. Then Neha, followed by the Sambangi family and friends performed before everyone got up to dance and played games.  How wonderful a contemporary take on both the formal and casual elements of catering.

A family and friends Indian Seet 16th Party catered by Banana Leaf

Five Ethnic Secret Garden Restaurant Surprises for Summer

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(Gerry Furth-Sides) Los Angeles as the city with most diverse ethnic cuisine in the world also boasts “secret garden” venues that surprise and delight. Two are classics that have renewed themselves with outdoor dining. We start with a favorite, actually a “sand garden,” Back to the Beach, and work our way east. On the list: Tiato Kitchen + Venue (Santa Monica); newly realized back patios of Marino Ristorante (East Hollywood)and Casita Del Campo (Silverlake); and the classic The Raymond 1886 Restaurant.

(1) Back to the Beach, Santa Monica

A place that reminds you of why you live in LA just minutes down the Pacific Coast Highway off the 10 freeway. Coming out of the tunnel and seeing the ocean is one of my favorites views in town. Owner Fred Deni is on hand, with decades of ownership behind him. He oversees a seamless operation of a staff happy to be there, too.

People watching, ocean watching and eating at Back On The Beach Cafe
Owner Fred Deni of Back On The Beach Cafe with Cynthia Mamukari, owner of Taste Catering Company who both do party food for the Annenberg Center

Plant your feet on a solid floor or at a table on the beach. The simple menu of favorites, salads & sandwiches, is capped by the best baker in town’s desserts (including my favorite lemon hazelnut torte). You just want lunch to last and last, and stay all day – and we always do.

Burger or Cheeseburger with yam fries or regular at Back to the Beach
THE Lemon Hazelnut Torte at Back On The Beach Cafe
Plant your fat in the sand (the best!) or inside on the floor at Back On The Beach Cafe

Back On The Beach Cafe, 445 Pacific Coast Hwy, Santa Monica, CA 90402, (310O 393.8282. www.backonthe beach cafe.com

(2) Tiato Kitchen + Venue, literally tucked into a tree-filled Santa Monica neighborhood so that it is hidden from street view, has no rival as the prettiest, most lush indoor-outdoor garden eatery, let alone the city’s biggest outside dining space. Indoors, the soaring ceilings and polished concrete floors, reclaimed wood furniture and eco-friendly materials lend an organic sensibility and a contemporary sense of grandeur at the same time.

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Tiato Kitchen + Venue

It is fitting that Tiato  is named after the “tia to” Vietnamese perilla plant, which has a fresh flavor similar to the Japanese herb shiso.  It is one of Catherine’s favorite. The fragrant leaf also symbolizes the cooking style of Executive Chef and family matriarch Helene An (Crustacean Restaurant). For the story, please see: //localfoodeater.com/titan-brings-california-inspired-vietnamese-vietnames-inspired-california-cusine/

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Catherine An of Tiato Kitchen + Venue

The Vegetarian, Vegan, Dairy-free and Gluten-free menu is dotted with ingredients like  kale, blueberries veggie smoothies and antioxidant-rich ingredients.  Health conscious dishes even include a Kale Caesar Salad. An described the food as “California-inspired Vietnamese and Asian-inspired California cuisine.’

 Fresh Pressed Juices can turn out to be a welcome meal in itself.  We love the name and ingredients of the rich Royal detox (beet, carrot and green apple) and the Green Goddess (broccoli, celery, green apple, honeydew and spinach). The cafe also offers draft and bottled beers, organic wines and a sake bar.

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Fresh pressed juices at Tiato Kitchen + Venue
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Fresh herbs abound in the outdoor garden and are used in the kitchen whenever possible. Meyer lemons, kaffir limes, blood oranges, mulberries and bushels of herbs  grow seasonally. What makes the original east-west fusion Chicken Banh Mi Burger ($12), special, along with the house-made potato chips, pillowy brioche bun and spicy mayo is that the veggie slaw is pickled and dotted with cilantro grown in the garden.

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Espressos and warm over-sized chocolate cookies are favorite customer picks.  The Tiato muffin is usually sold out by the afternoon.

Engaging proprietor, Catherine An heads up Tiato + Venue, initially created as the family restaurant’s catering division with the garden as an event space.  Read about mom, Helene An, (Crustaean in Beverly Hills) and sister Hannah’s District in West Hollywood.  (www.anfamily.com).

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Tiato Market Garden Café, 2700 Colorado Avenue, Suite 190, Santa Monica, CA,  310.866.5228 to leave a message.  For hours and more information, please see, www.tiato.co

(3) Marino Ristaurante

Friend and second generation proprietor, Mario Marino, and I daydreamed about the day when the family could create backyard al fresco dining area under an old olive tree in the back of the restaurant. And the pandemic made it happen, with the feeling of some good out of the overall. It had the the same immaculate service and authentic Neapolitan cuisine. Chef Sal heads the kitchen and Mario is “front of the house” as always. Consistent classic southern Italian cuisine in a white tablecloth setting – whole branzino offered three ways; roman bread; ricotta cheesecake; the best anti pasti in the world. Legendary Dad Ciro Marino started 50 years ago and would be proud.

And summer is tomato season. It was Marino Ristorante Chef, Sal Marino, put one on a plate, insisting on dotting it with salt, and I fell in love. But until now it was farmers market, Melissa’s Produce when available or nothing.

Marino Ristorante Chef Sal Marino with brother Mario and a tomato supper menu
Marino Ristorante‘s patio- the olive tree is opposite the building
Dad Ciro Marino’s signature ricotta cheesecake, a must-have, at Marino Ristorante

Marino Ristorante, 6001 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, Ca 90038, (323) 466-8812, www.marinorestaurant.com

(4) Casita del Campo

A historic, neighborhood place for all ages with delicious, carefully made Mexican food — founded by one of the dancers in West Side Story for his entertainment friends! Patio, dining room, private room seating makes any lunch or party special. Excellent, friendly service and parking lot out back!

The Casita de Campo patio carved out of the back parking lot behind the restaurant is new. It is relaxing and lively with beautiful plants and fountain. After an inconsistent winter-spring season, the patio is once again open for dining with protocols in place. And the same attentive staff is there.

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Casita del Campo’s relaxing fountain in its new back patio
Casita del Campo’s leisurely patio with lively food and service

The original recipes and cooking practices have stayed the same since the day the restaurant opened 57 years ago. Every morning, fresh vegetables are chopped for the tasty salsa, the guacamole and chips all made fresh daily as evident in the enormous amount of food carried out from the kitchen. The new vegan menu items such as the tacos and fajitas, already popular with customers, reflect the current health-conscious times and neighborhood’s gentrification. 

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Casita del Campo’s classic menu with new vegetarian options

Casita Del Campo, 1920 Hyperion Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90027. is open for take out and delivery. For more information please visit www.CasitaDelCampo.net or call 323.662.4255.

(5) The Raymond 1886

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The Raymond 1886 veranda you never want to leave
The Raymond 1886 background waterfall

The Pasadena’s Craftsman cottage on South Fair Oaks Avenue with its high-ceiling, captivating veranda is another nostalgic nod to the past.  The Grand Raymond Hotel at one time fronted this South Pasadena estate and its spirit lives on.

It’s always fun to people watch and just relax after pulling into the shady glen of patio, a sharp turn off the road just northwest of the Arroyo Freeway, and out of the blazing sun outside.

A sample of the meals at The Raymond 1886 with brilliant pastry chef Roberto Morales’ desserts

The Raymond 1886 open for Lunch Tuesday – Friday from 11:30 am to 2:30 pm;  Dinner every Tuesday – Sunday from 5:30 to 10:00 pm and Brunch  Saturday and Sunday, 9:00 am to 2:30 pm.
For information or reservations, please visit 
www.theraymond.com or phone 626.441.3136. Week-end Brunch from 9:00 am to 2:30 pm, and for Dinner from 4:00 pm to 9:00 pm; 1250 South Fair Oaks Avenue; Pasadena, CA 91105; 626.441.3136;
www.TheRaymond.com

Fresh Italian Pomi Tomatoes Come Home to America

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The finest tomatoes and nothing else in the Pomi Tomatoes cartons (photo courtesy Pomi)

(Gerry Furth-Sides) I am back to eating tomatoes. And I love cooking with luscious strained tomatoes and chopped tomatoes and finely chopped tomatoes. This is all because of an introduction to Pomi Tomatoes in cartons, straight off the vine in Italy. The Pomi online recipe book helps out with a motivating recipe collection contributed by world calibre chefs, complete with sidebar guidelines on which product’s consistency works best for dishes in each course of an Italian meal. The chef list: Anika Friesen, Anna Ramiz, Dennis Prescott, Jasmine Comer, Joni Gomez, Marcella Dilonardo, Rosalynn Daniels and Elizabeth Emery.

The GET SAUCY online cookbook, complete with guidelines for dishes and sourcing

It actually never really bothered me not to eat tomatoes for almost a decade after doing a detox regime, and chose this and other acidic fruit to delete from my diet rather than alcohol or caffeine. After all, the pricey selection available in supermarkets was fairly tasteless. Then one day Marino Ristorante Chef, Sal Marino, put one on a plate, insisting on dotting it with salt, and I fell in love. But until now it was farmers market, Melissa’s when available or nothing.

Pomi rivals homegrown from Marino Ristorante Chef Sal Marino (here with brother Mario)

Pomi Tomatoes ended this. And they are in a wonderful lined cardboard carton not tinned. The tomatoes are grown from selected seeds, cultivated on over 7,000 hectares between Cremona, Parma, Mantua, and Piacenza in glorious Northern Italy. To guarantee the highest quality for consumers, the tomatoes are processed within hours of picking them, close to the location where they are harvested and with a meticulous respect of the environment. Growers claim, “they offer a freshness that brings a burst of tomato flavor to any dish.” We agree wholeheartedly.

Pomi Tomatoes meticulously grown from selected seeds and harvested in Northern Italy
Nothing but tomatoes and clear, direct information on the cartons.

Even though the Get Saucy book has recipes for each course we found it to be just as adventurous to experiment with the sauce once we tried out the master recipe.

We could not get enough of this sauce made from Pomi tomatoes, which we used on everything from poached eggs to Greek style green beans, and below, our potato tart.

Ingredients for Master Sauce

Mixing up and preparing the master Pomi Tomato on the box, takes a little over an hour
We added added broth for a delectable tomato first course soup.

Ingredients for the Pomi Tomato Potato Gratin Tart

1 (14 oz) can Pomì Chopped Tomatoes 1 tbsp Pomì Double Concentrated Tomato Paste
2 small yellow onions, thinly sliced 

3 tbsp olive oil
3 large cloves of garlic, chopped
2 tsp kosher salt
1/4 cup fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, and thyme, chopped
1 cup Fontina cheese, grated
2 lbs gold potatoes, very thinly sliced 3/4 lb (about 3) Roma tomatoes, sliced 

Preheat oven to 400 F.
Heat oil in a large sauté pan set over medium heat. Add onions to the hot olive oil and cook for 5-6 minutes, until beginning to soften and become translucent. 

Stir in garlic, Double Concentrated Tomato Paste, and 1 tsp of salt and cook for another 3-4 minutes. 

Stir in herbs, Pomì Chopped Tomatoes, and the remaining teaspoon of salt and bring to a low simmer. Simmer for 15-20 minutes, until the mixture is thick and chunky and almost all of the tomato liquid has evaporated. 

When you are ready to assemble the gratin, place half of the tomato and onion mixture in an even layer in the bottom of your baking dish. Arrange half the potato and tomato slices in an even layer on top of the tomato mixture, then top with half of the grated Fontina cheese.  Repeat this layering one more time with the remaining tomato-onion mixture, followed by the sliced potatoes and tomatoes, and top with the remaining cheese. 

Bake uncovered for 50-55 minutes until potatoes are fully cooked, and most of the liquid has evaporated. When the gratin is fully cooked, let cool slightly before scooping or slicing. Serve hot. 

Pomi tomatoes make a potato tart “pop”. Plenty of sauce left over from the 26.6 oz.carton

Basic Sauce Ingredients

1 ( 26.6  oz) can Pomì Chopped, Chopped Fine or Strained Tomatoes.  For a silky smooth tomato sauce use Pomi strained tomatoes.  Use Pomi Finely Chopped Tomatoes for a thicker, chunkier sauce.  For more body use Pomi Chopped Tomatoes.   

1 onion, peeled and finely sliced

3 tbsp olive oil, plus a little extra to drizzle on top
2 large cloves of garlic, peeled and finely diced

1 tbsp Pomì Double Concentrated Tomato Paste
1/4 cup fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil, and thyme, chopped
Sea salt, cracked black pepper

Directions 

>Heat oil in a large sauté pan set over a low heat. Add onions to the hot olive oil, season with salt.

Cook, stirring often, until the onions are translucent, about 10 minutes.  Add in the garlic and cook for 2 minutes.  

Add the Pomì Double Concentrated Tomato Paste and continue cooking for 5 minutes.

Add in Pomì Tomatoes, and stir constantly until the sauce begins to boil.  Lower heat and simmer on low for 1 hour, stirring every 10 minutes., and adding in the basil leaves halfway through the cooking time.

Taste and season with additional salt and pepper, as desired. 

Our dinner table honoring colorful Pomi Tomato dishes
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Pomi Tomato start the meal with Bruschettas topped with Italian sardines and garlic aioli
“Leftovers!” Pomi Tomato Sauce over minced meatballs, topped with a poached egg
We had a little help from our friends at Melissa’s Product. The heavenly mild elephant garlic contrasted beautifully with the more acidic tomato in the potato gratin tart
The complete line of Pomi products

Second Generation Continues Marino Ristorante Legacy in LA

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DSCN8330Q for QualitySecond generation operated ethnic restaurants include marino ristorante in East Hollywood.   Los Angeles Magazine’s “best” pick restaurant host, Mario Marino, shares responsibilities.  Brother Sal (former owner-chef of Il Grano, La Bottega Marino), oversees the kitchen.

(Marino ristorante) is one of the 31 restaurants in Los Angeles to be awarded the The “Ospitalita’ Italiana – Seal of Authenticity”. Restaurants have to pass an extensive series of rigorous tests for authenticity, from a percentage of denomination Italian wines on their list to the menu being written in perfect Italian, and Italian-speaking staff.

Dad Ciro (who passed away in 2009) created Marino Ristorante as an old school formal dining room in 1979.  The menu is respected for being  as fresh as the fish and seafood the brothers continue to carefully pick out each morning at the downtown markets.  Sal is a familiar face at local farmers markets, and has so many tomatoes in his own garden he holds “tomato dinners” at the restaurant each summer.

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“Marino” means “the sea,” and here fish and seafood star among the Neapolitan comfort dishes.  Marino was the first restaurant to feature whole Branzino (Chilean Sea Bass), filleted table side.  The kitchen still offers it three ways: grilled, Blackened and baked in a coating of sea salt,  filleted table side.P1030670

Marino was once known affectionately as the “unofficial Paramount Studios commissary” for power hitters and celebrities.  Those were the days when Frank Sinatra held sway in the back room.  There were good feelings after he tried and failed to recruit Ciro as his private chef.

White tablecloth tables and booths still hold political officials, musicians, entertainers and producers with household name recognition though their privacy is respected. The Henry Mancini family and the Bill Conti family still hold family dinner in the back private room

Awards for food are many.   Vegan bread is baked in ancient Roman style, with a similar recipe also used in the award-winning pizza crust. Marino’s Chestnut Pasta was also honored with a feature in Los Angeles Magazine. Marino’s organic produce was featured on National Public Radio.

Marino cuisine classic options are also healthy ones.   Gluten-free pasta choices, such as the wild mushroom fettuccine shown here, are also a vegetarian and vegan favorite.  For carnivores, there is the pappardelle Bolognese (with a beef, veal sauce cooked for three hours)  plus steak and lamb dishes.  The signature Neapolitan, Chicken Vesuvio, heads the list of poultry dishes.  DSCN8281 DSCN8312photo 3 (1)

 

DSCN8304Ciro was always a cutting-edge trend-setter since his days as head captain at the legendary Villa Capri.  He later managed  Martoni’s, one of the city’s first celebrity-driven eateries.  Sonny Bono wrote, “I’ve got You Babe,” after host Ciro requested he go home and change to follow the restaurant dress code.

Ciro loves to tell the story of his first night working there, “the youngest server and the smartest” who was overseeing the likes of Jean Leon, Matty Jordan and Dan Tana.  “If you listen to me, you’ll all own your own places,” he laughs.  And they did: La Scala, Maddeo, Matteo, Carmine’s and La Dolce Vita.

When Martoni’s opened with most of the same staff, Ciro was manager.  He had already changed his name to Mario to make it “easier for Americans to pronounce and remember.”  So Martoni’s was named after him and after his cousin.

Innovator Ciro originated the first outdoor patio dining spot on Sunset Boulevard, which soon became such a popular after-hours hangouts for restaurant insiders, the proprietor did not arrive home till dawn.  And he operated the first restaurant “take-away” section, still popular  with its kitchen window visible from the street.

When cousin Tony changed his mind about partnering to own Martoni’s, Ciro left the country to raise his young family in Naples.  He returned  in 1982 to open Marino.  The restaurant soon became well known for their award-winning wine list – so extensive it required an additional house to store it, businessman’s lunches and degustation menus.

The  anti pasti (shown here), that became so popular it earned a showcase of its own at the door.

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marino anti pasti that earned its own case by the door

The signature ricotta cheesecake  currently  boasts three pages on google, including a video.  It has become featured item at many invitational charity events in the city.

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Mario and hostess Rita serve the signature cheesecake

www.marinorestaurant.net.  marino ristorante, 6001 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90038,(323) 466-881. Order online for pick up and delivery.  Lunch Mon-Fri; Dinner Mon-Sat. Reservations suggested; children welcome; valet parking, casual elegant, private room.