roberta deen

EATING LOW ON THE HOG CUTTING BOARD FILIPINO GASTROPUB, LAS VEGAS

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(Roberta Deen) The partners and staff of Cutting Board Filipino Gastropub in Las Vegas have mastered the cooking and drama of lechon (pork).  They even arrayed the Crispy Lechon Kawali (deep-fried pork belly) into bite-sized logs to make them easy to eat.

Lechon

A serving of Crispy Lechon is usually three times the size of this one.

Meaty pork belly rests overnight in a brine of vinegar and spices, is slow-simmered until tender, sliced into logs or batons, then deep-fried immediately. Tender and melting on the inside and perfectly crisp on the outside. The dish is served with a mango-cabbage salad dressed in fresh lime and vinegar which is a counter-balance to the rich pork. The full order would make a nice appetizer for four and an entree for two.

Moving on down the pig to the upper leg, Barry, Momma Glo and Tiffany have created a marrow lover’s dream. The Roasted Bone Marrow is a long leg bone halved lengthwise (rendering the entire marrow accessible with no digging in little round bone towers), topped with garlic butter, herbs and Parmesan then roasted. The fragrant bones are presented with slices of garlic toasted baguette and a variation of the cabbage salad with tender lemongrass and mango, just the right note against the rich marrow. The taste may be a bit unexpected with its decidedly French flavor notes, but the French were a major influence in Filipino cuisine along with the Spanish, Chinese, Japanese, Thai and the Portuguese. This dish would easily serve four as an appetizer.

Roasted Bone

Roasted Bone Marrow for sharing.

Then on down to the limit of the leg – The Crispy Pata. The entire shank and foot are brined in the same vinegar and spice mix as the Crispy Lechon Kawali, slowly boiled three to four hours until very tender. Then the pata is deep-fried in hot, hot oil until the skin is crisp.

Crispy Pata

The dramatic do-it-yourself Crispy Pata

You can hear the snap and crackle when the very dramatic presentation is placed in front of you. Eat it quickly before it cools to get the full benefit of the “concert”. A fine dish for sharing with a crowd of friends and a frosty San Miguel beer at the communal tables while watching a big screen sporting event.

This is the ultimate set of pork dishes, equal in drama and satisfaction to the best American-style barbecue. They are an ideal introduction to an ethnic cuisine that is now gaining an audience in this country.

If you are a local or a visitor from out of town ready for a break from The Strip, it is well worth the short drive to Cutting Board Filipino Gastropub.  Owned by Tiffany Le, Jennifer and Gloria Escobar.   Tiffany has also been owner/president of Fort McKinley Restaurant and Bar located in South San Francisco since 2012. For more information, photographs and menu, please see the Cutting Board website at www.cuttingboard.vegas.

Cutting Board Filipino Gastropub., 2131 Rock Springs Drive, Las Vegas, 89928. 702.233.9838.

BON APPÉTIT VEGAS UNCORK’D 2017 – THE GRAND TASTING

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VEGAS UNCORK’D 2017

(Roberta R. Deen) The Grand Tasting took place in the massive, five-acre Garden of the Gods Pool Oasis at Caesars Palace Hotel & Casino on the famous “Vegas Strip“. Such a vast venue is required to house the 109 vendors and the eager 2,500 paying guests ($260.00 for the later entrants). There were at least 50 world-class chefs displaying their widely renowned restaurants’ most coveted menu tastes.

The atmosphere was electric once the the doors were opened and the hungry guests flowed in. There was, between the tireless chefs and the endless crowd, a powerful sense that this was a “once in a lifetime” experience.

Chosen by Bon Appétit as the best in the world, each vendor earned respect as a totally worthy temple of dining.  Yet four stood out to me, each because of a distinct aspect. Focusing on them tells the story best.  I have been a catering chef,  “done” events like these and know what the chefs went through to create such stellar efforts to showcase their specialties in the open air, far away from their gleaming kitchens and full staff.

Martorano

The first vendor we stopped at was Martorano’s. We soon learned that the top sign meant what it said.  And “FAMOUS” for good reason.  (//www.cafemartorano.com/)(//www.caesars.com)

We were very impressed to find the big, bold, bald, tattooed, Chef/Owner Steve Martorano and his wife, Marsha, were front of the house this time, serving up a meatball salad and red velvet cupcakes.

Martorano’s generous “taste” of Meat Ball Salad.

Martorano’s generous “taste” of Meat Ball Salad.

Steve was giving instructions on how to eat – a bite of meatball with a bite of salad, a dip of bread in sauce and Parmesan.

Steve and Roberta R. Deen

Steve is a fierce teddy bear of a man

It seemed that he knew everyone who came by. If he didn’t know you when you arrived, you were his friend when you left. And you wouldn’t be in a hurry to leave.

Marsha Martarano with their logo cupcake. “Yo Cuz” means you are family

Marsha Martarano with their logo cupcake. “Yo Cuz” means you are family.

Marsha was delivering angel-light deep red velvet cupcakes with airy cream cheese frosting and white chocolate discs that would win “Cupcake Wars” in a heart beat!

Steve was displaying his cookbook “It Ain’t Sauce, It’s Gravy” which is a personal memoir, an inspirational story and a damn fine cookbook promoting Italian-American cooking from South Philly. It includes the meatball salad recipe and instructions for eating it. I know because he generously gave me a copy inscribed “Never give up” with his signature “Yo cuz”.  Martorano’s can be found at the Rio Hotel.

Tao Asian Bistro and Eggslut

Tao Asian Bistro  was a stand-out with its innovative Crispy Pork Bao Buns. The layout included free-standing wok stoves, with bamboo baskets sending plumes of fragrant steam into the air as the bao cooked.

Steaming snow-white Tao bao

Steaming snow-white Tao bao

The bao were then pressed down into a disk and fried on one side to a crispy, savory crust filled with the most elegant barbecued pork and thick, sweet sauce. Totally familiar and totally new at the same time. Not your usual dim sum experience. You can visit Tao Asian Bistro at the Venetian Hotel.

Eggslut menu
 Eggslut also provided one of the most innovative and flavorful tastes of the evening.

The efficient chefs put eggs, cheese and cream into miniature screwtop jars and cooked them in sous vide machines into one of the most indulgent, most comforting breakfast dishes possible. When you dipped your spoon in, that mixture had been transformed into a warm, satisfying custard unlike anything else.

The indulgent Slut

The indulgent “Slut”

It is no wonder the venue is such a wild success in L.A. ‘s Central Market, Glendale and Venice. It is a bit pricey for breakfast but well worth the occasional indulgence at any time of day. Make your reservations in Las Vegas at The Cosmopolitan Hotel.

Cut RestaurantLast, but not least, for sheer shock and awe, is the famed  Cut Restaurant.  One of the advantages of attending an event such as this one, is that you get to see scenes from the kitchen up very close that you might miss while eating in the restaurant, even with Cut’s open performance kitchen.

Cut Porterhouse

Eight-inch thick racks of Cut Porterhouse

Cut Restaurant  is all about meat, mainly beef, but when you see an eight-inch thick Porterhouse rack grilling over open flame you really get the point. The talented carvers separated the meat from the bones in a few deft cuts and put them on miniature plates in what seemed like seconds.

Flying knives reducing blocks of beef into tender, perfectly rare slices

Flying knives reducing blocks of beef into tender, perfectly rare slices

It took much longer than seconds to eat the tender slices simply because you didn’t want to hurry through the deep, elementary flavors and textures of such a “man vs fire” experience. Cut, like many of the fifty plus restaurants represented is definitely a special occasion dining event. You can have yours at Cut in The Palazzo Hotel.

Overall, I would say this would be the event to choose if you have limited time or opportunity. The best of Las Vegas and most of the world is here for your pure pleasure. The setting is divine and the food would bring the gods down from Olympus.

Best of Las Vegas

Las Vegas Uncork’d Master Event: The World’s Best, Chef Guy Savoy

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The Serene and Elegant Dining Room

THE IMPRESSIONS CREATED BY A MASTER

(Roberta Deen) At “The World’s Best, An Epicurean Affair” inside the elegant Restaurant Guy Savoy, the famed Michelin-starred chef served a multi-course dinner highlighting dishes normally found at his Paris location. Chef Guy Savoy invited guests on a journey of the senses, showcasing his exclusive empire of tastes and influences.

Diners enjoyed lobster salad “Bellevue,” artichoke and black truffle soup with toasted mushroom brioche and black truffle butter as well as whole roasted veal saddle topped with a spring garnish and natural jus.

To elevate the intimate dining experience, the world-renowned chef hosted the only Krug Chef’s table in the United States where six lucky patrons sipped on luxurious Krug champagne and dined on dishes personally prepared by the legendary chef.

(Roberta R. Deen) Every single bite of this meal could be described as “over the top” at the meal, yet it was the overall experience of it, the atmosphere created around the dinner, the reverence, ceremony and the sharing that set it apart and made it the world’s best.  A frisson of excitement arrived along with every glass of wine that was poured and every gorgeous plate of food that was set down.

The quiet sense of anticipation that grew with every guest arriving outside the high gates leading down a hall to the restaurant’s massive doors.  The full range of the current “Vegas experience” look was on display – from chic little black dresses to leather short shorts,  gold lace formal to a blue Mohawk.

Then came a shift from patiently waiting guests to a dignified press as the doors opened, ushering each guest into the warm embrace and cheerful smile of Chef Guy Savoy, the number one rated chef in the entire world.  Each person was photographed with their own phone and swept in to find their table. The renowned chef greeted everyone as if they were long-lost friends and never flagged as the line of diners stretched on.

Chef Guy Savoy - The Grand Entrance

The Grand Entrance

Finely suited waiters led each diner to their assigned table in a subtle, gracious room.  There was blessedly no piped-in music, there were no flowers on the table and only one minimal abstract canvas on the wall over Table 2. The walls were a soothing soft gray; the tables in starched white linen, the place settings unassuming heavy silver. Six gleaming crystal wine glasses graced each place setting.

Menu

The only sounds were quiet conversation and the hum of eager anticipation of the meal to come. There was nothing to distract attention from the business at hand.

Bon Appétit Wine Editor, Marissa A. Ross, briefly welcomed the guests and introduced Chef Savoy.  Chef Savoy introduced Julien Asseo, his Executive Chef at the Las Vegas location, who warmly invited everyone to enjoy the meal, as if they were at his country dining table.

Petite Hors d’oeuvre

Petite Hors d’oeuvre to begin served also with an elegant beef slider and Kushi oysters concassé (below)

beef slider and Kushi oysters concassé

The elegant, well-versed wait staff, moved the meal right along without any sense of rush. They knew the food intimately and could quickly,  graciously describe the food in detail – and repeat upon request.

Lobster Salad Bellevue

Lobster Salad “Bellevue”

Five servers alone proudly carried only two plates at a time on large rectangular silver platters, and took care to present the dish properly. Dishes, glasses and silverware were removed without a sound, minus busboys, creating the sensation of dining in another more cordial era.

John Dory in its GardenJohn Dory in its “Garden”

Artichoke and Black Truffle Soup

The famous Artichoke and Black Truffle Soup from the Paris restaurant with Mushroom Brioche Feuilétee, was toasted and brushed with Black Truffle Butter meant to be dipped in the soup.  This was the dish most murmured about by the guests being ushered into the room.  The soup was lovely but what really impressed me was the brioche Feuilétee treated as puff pastry.

Mushroom Brioche Feuilétee

Roasted Saddle of Veal, Creamed Potatoes, Veal-Stuffed Baby Vegetables with Jus Naturel arrived as the next course.

A La Fin – The StrawberryA La Fin – The Strawberry

As the meal ended and people quietly exited into another receiving line with photos being taken with Chef Savoy, I took a chance and I asked one of the cordial waiters if there might be the slightest chance to view the kitchen.  Without hesitation he answered, “Of course, madam!”  ushering me into the shining, perfectly clean, as if nothing had gone on that evening, kitchen and introduced me directly to the Executive chef, Julien Asseo.

Guy Savoy - Executive chef, Julien AsseoThe staff was just finishing up the Chef’s Table for six set behind a wall of etched glass. (Chef Savoy had prepared that meal himself.) The kitchen was breath-takingly small for such an expansive meal.

I asked Chef Julien how much staff had he used to create our elaborate, complex eight- course dinner.  He replied, “Nine. Nine extremely efficient chefs. And, of course, Chef Savoy helped too.”

Chef Julien himself was calm, personable and warm, appearing no worse for the wear.  This is the magic of a world-class chef able to create a dining experience, seamless from the very beginning to the very end, worthy of his title.

The 11th Annual Vegas Uncork’d by Bon Appétit Event, April 27-29!

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(All photos courtesy of Vegas Uncork’d) The countdown is on for the 11th annual Vegas Uncork’d presented by sponsor Chase Sapphire®.  Tickets are selling quickly and 12 events are sold out.  Tickets  and event information can be found at   //www.vegasuncorked.com

LocalFoodEater’s Roberta Deen will be covering the event for us – as a former recipe tester for Bon Appétit, Roberta has an insider’s view.

One of the country’s top food, wine and spirits festivals hits the Las Vegas Strip, with both intimate and large-scale extravaganzas at Caesars Palace, The Cromwell, The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, MGM Resorts International, The Venetian and The Palazzo Las Vegas.

The event includes world’s most sought-after chefs, sommeliers and mixologists including Alain Ducasse, Bobby Flay, Buddy “Cake Boss” Valastro, Charlie Palmer, Giada De Laurentiis, Gordon Ramsay, Guy Savoy, José Andrés, Julian Serrano, Lorena Garcia, Shawn McClain, Nobu Matsuhisa, Wolfgang Puck and newly added to Picnic in The Park – the venerable Tom Colicchio and Rick Moonen.

-Three-Kitchen Tasting at SUGARCANE raw bar grill with Chef Timon Balloo (The Venetian) takes place Thursday, April 27  at SUGARCANE raw bar grill.   Signature cocktails the event feature rum from all over the world.

Award-winning Executive Chef & Partner Timon Balloo will present a selection of SUGARCANE’s globally inspired small plates.   Chef Timon Balloo’s signature style – the juxtaposition of bold flavors made for sharing – will be prepared using three kitchen concepts.  The list includes the open fire grill; raw bar dishes and traditional kitchen dishes.


– #FoodPorn Cooking Demo & Luncheon with The Too Hot Tamales (Forum Shops at Caesars Palace),
Friday, April 28. The up close and personal live cooking demonstration stars chef duo, Mary Sue Milliken, and Susan Feniger.  The entertaining “Too Hot Tamales” fix a “feast for the eyes and shake up creative cocktails.”

Guests will learn the dynamic duo’s innovative recipes and cooking techniques and also get the lowdown on how to shoot epic food porn photos with expert tips and tricks from Bon Appétit magazine’s social media gurus.   A takeaway recipe booklet is part of the package.

A multi-course lunch with specialty cocktails follows the demos and photo tip session.  Afterward comes a chance to purchase personalized cookbooks.

– Lunch like a Spaniard with José Andrés at Jaleo (The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas), Friday, April 28:  Guests experience a taste of Spain with internationally acclaimed culinary pioneer and innovator, Chef José Andrés. José  prepares lobster paella over their renowned live fire pit in a dish-and-tell session, and shares his favorite stories behind the unique restaurant’s menu items, such as José’s Taco, a slice of jamón ibérico de bellota topped with osetra caviar and gold flakes; Coca con Erizas del Mar, crusty Spanish cristal bread topped with sea urchin, ibérico bacon and butter; their renowned Gin and Tonic program, and more.

– Robin Leach & Gary Selesner Invite You to a Culinary Journey Around the World at Bacchanal Buffet (Caesars Palace), Friday, April 28:  Guests join “Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous” host Robin Leach and Caesars Palace President Gary Selesner for a culinary adventure at Bacchanal Buffet—named the #1 buffet in Las Vegas. The renowned chef team will present an around the world culinary journey that showcases dishes from different countries and cuisines, paired with premier global wines, as Leach and Selesner recount their worldly travels.

The Grand Tasting (Caesars Palace), (Friday, April 28)  At this signature event of Vegas Uncork’d, over 2,500 food enthusiasts enjoy a staggering variety of signature dishes prepared by over 50 of the world’s most celebrated chefs and over 100 of the best wines and spirits from around the world.

– The Hog in the Henhouse: Yardbird Presents A Potbelly Brunch (The Venetian), Friday, April 28:  Yardbird’s exclusive Pot Belly Brunch will be hog heaven for lovers of all things bacon and pork belly.

– Brunch at GIADA: An Italian Inspired Feast (The Cromwell), Saturday, April 29:  Guests join chef Giada De Laurentiis for brunch and a photo with the chef at her award-winning first and only namesake restaurant.

Picnic in The Park features Alain Ducasse among a number of top celebrity chefs on April 29.  Live music and many of the MGM Resorts’ most notable chefs offer up creative twists on classic picnic dishes.

Sweet Escape: An Evening of Buddy, Beignets, Bonbons & Booze (The Palazzo), Saturday, April 29: Buddy “Cake Boss” Valastro hosts an evening with Chefs of The Venetian and The Palazzo, each preparing a unique take on beignets or bonbons.

For information about the Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority, please see www.lvcva.com or www.visitlasvegas.com.

EARLY ACCESS tickets include special perks including a meet and greet with chefs.

Best Easter Banana Bread with Gluten-Free BLENDS BY ORLY

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(Roberta Deen) Sydney Blend in the line of Blends By Orly gluten-free flours turned out an irresistible, moist, India-inspired banana bread in our kitchens.

Continuing the theme set by the London Blend for Maharani Curried Scones, (that wowed the crowd), the Sydney Blend also really came through for me..   The Sydney flour is designed for sweet and savory quick-breads, muffins, pies and more.   Using a new technique developed by Cook’s Magazine and my own banana bread recipe allowed my imagination to soar.

Mise en place for banana bread

PRINCESS BANANA TEA BREAD

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Line the bottom and two short ends of an 8-1/2 by 4-1/2-inch loaf pan with a strip of parchment or waxed paper.  I like to use my enameled Le Cruset pate pan. It gives the loaf the right shape for tea sandwiches or dainty bites and it bakes the bread very evenly.

5 large, very, very ripe frozen in-the-skin bananas (You know the ones in the back of the freezer that you were                   saving to make banana bread.)
Thaw and squeeze them out of their skins into a fine meshed sieve set over a bowl
Squeeze hard on the skins to extract as much juice as possible
Let them sit in the sieve, stirring now and then to release more juice, for 15 minutes
You should get a scant ¾ cup of juice and about 2 cups of pulp.                                                                                        Simmer the juice in a small pot over medium heat until reduced to ¼ cup

Banana Pulp and reduced juice

In a medium bowl, whisk together:
1-3/4 cup Sydney Blend                                                                                                                                                           1 teaspoon baking soda                                                                                                                                                                         1/2 teaspoon salt                                                                                                                                                                                     1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon                                                                                                                                                           1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom                                                                                                                                                         1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

In a large bowl, whisk together:
8 Tablespoons sweet butter, melted and cooled
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon real vanilla
¾ cup dark brown sugar, packed firmly
2 Tablespoons Sweet and Spicy Crystallized Ginger (Trader Joe’s)
2 Tablespoons minced, dried, unsulfured, unsweetened dried mango (Trader Joe’s)
2 Tablespoons chopped pistachio nuts, preferably unsalted
¼ cup reduced banana juice
The banana pulp
Gently stir in the flour mixture only just enough to blend.
There will be some flour streaks still showing

Turn the dough into the prepared pan

Bake for 55 minutes, minimum.
Check to see if a toothpick inserted into the center of the loaf comes out clean
If necessary, add time, 5 minutes at a time, as needed to get a clean toothpick
Cool loaf in the pan, on a cooling rack for 10 minutes
Run a small thin knife down the sides that have no paper lining
Keep the blade of the knife turned toward the pan to avoid cutting the crust
of the bread
Turn the bread out of the pan on to its top, remove the paper, and turn the loaf over
Let cool for at least 1 hour before serving or cutting
If not using right away, cover snugly in plastic wrap
Can be refrigerated for a day or two (If it lasts that long!) or freeze

I cut the bread into 1” cubes which I topped with a dollop of Mango Greek yogurt.

It would also be great as finger sandwiches with a cream cheese and mango spread.

No one would believe this was gluten-free. All the tasters thought the mango yogurt was the perfect touch.

Another “omg” response from a taster!

Note: The entire line is usable 1:1 in place of regular wheat flour. Each 20 ounce bag comes with a recipe on the back and more recipes are available from the website – www.blendsbyorly.com. The production of Blends by Orly is impeccable – made in dedicated factories that are never shared with gluten, tree nut, dairy and corn and all natural. I recommend this brand of flour blends to all true celiacs and to the people who love them. The product is packaged in zip-top heavy-duty bags that extend the shelf life of the flours.

Each flour is cleverly named after one of the great cities of the world. After receiving her formal patisserie training from Le Cordon, Orly Gottesman went to work in a bakery to learn recipes to give her husband back his beloved pastries, found she liked the work, became a baker, opened a bakery and developed these blends to give a proper taste to gluten-free home baking. Although each blend contains nearly the same ingredients, the mixtures are designed with the proportions needed to give the correct balance for a certain outcome.

(You can see the video with Orly’s story and recipes on the website) //blendsbyorly.com

MONOGRANO FELICETTI’s New Way to Look at Pasta:

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(Roberta Deen) Monograno Pasta
 is made with 100% organic single-source ancient grains. It comes handsomely, elegantly packaged in richly textured white boxes with clear panels that allow you to view the beautiful pasta within. I admired the packaging and began to read the detailed information on the back of the boxes. //www.monogranofelicetti.  it/eu_en/flour-types.html

The history of the various grains and their sources is carefully explained. The penne lisce (long, sturdy quills) was made from matt, “a strong and rich variety of durum wheat” cultivated in Puglia and Sicily.

The chiocciole (an oddly shaped, textured tube) is made from Khorasan-type durum wheat known as kamut,”the ancestor of our modern grain…easier to digest than other grains.”

And the linguine, a rich, textured whole wheat brown, is made from spelt which “has been around since the ancient days of the Celts, Egyptians and Etruscans. It is a soft wheat…that has a higher protein content and is richer in vitamins. There are 250 varieties. The Felicetti family uses one specific variety from…Umbria”.

I chuckled a bit and thought how the packages read like wine labels with “scents of hay and dried coconut, scents of hazelnuts and cooked eggplant, white flowers and freshly peel fruit”! There was the nose. Then came the flavor profiles – “pine and macadamia nuts with hints of edible flowers, stone cooked bread, butter and bamboo shoots, hints of peanut butter and red dates”. I took these descriptions as a challenge to see if they held true.

When I cooked them I chose to go very simple – water, a generous pinch of Fleur de sel salt and a splash of extra-virgin olive oil. I cooked about 4 ounces of each pasta until just a bit past al dente ( I am a very old school American pasta eater. I like it done.) As it cooked, I wafted the rising steam directly to my nose and there it was – the penne lisce made with matt gave off notes of green hay overlaying the dried coconut.

The Khorasan kamut released the gentle scents of white flowers blending with back notes of fresh fruit. The farro linguine emitted the fragrance of toasted hazelnuts with the palest hint of eggplant.

I drained the pasta, saving some of the cooking liquid for the finish with real butter and just a touch of freshly finely grated Parmegeano-Reggiano over the top.

From the first bite, I was enchanted. All of the pastas were toothsome, sturdy, fragrant (except that the farro linguini is a bit fragile if over cooked.  It needs to stay al dente.) They would all take to any type of sauce and any style of salad. All of the flavor notes were there except that I was unable to find the peanut butter and red dates in the farro linguine. But, just the butter and Parm were more than sufficient for me. What more could one ask than fully flavored and fragranced pasta that could stand on its own.

Just as an introduction to letting the pasta be the star, I suggest the following recipe.

Pasta Nona Rustica

Per person as an entrée:

1 nicely ripe Roma tomato, charred, peeled, seeded, and diced

5 Italian black olives, pitted and slivered

5 small to medium basil leaves, torn into small pieces

Freshly ground black pepper

Finishing salt (lightly smoked or pink Himalayan would be a good choice)

2 Tablespoons toasted pine nuts

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (other hard, sharp

cheeses such as aged goudas would work as well)

2 ounces dried pasta such as the Monograno Matt penne lisce, kamut

chiocciole or the farro linguini

boiling water

salt

extra-virgin olive oil

1 top of a stem of basil for garnish

Cook the pasta in a generous amount of boiling water seasoned with salt

and a splash of extra-virgin olive oil for 8-10 minutes.  Reserve 1 tablespoon

of the water the pasta was cooked in and drain the pasta well.

Return the reserved water to the pot, add the pasta back and toss well.

Add the tomato, olives and basil and toss again. Season with a few grindings

of pepper, a pinch of salt and toss lightly again.

Place the pasta in a serving bowl. Sprinkle with the pine nuts.

Generously dust with the Parmigianino and garnish with the basil top.

 

 

London Blend Orly Recipe for the Best Gluten-Free Scones

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IMG_1565                                                                                      London Blend Scones

(Roberta Deen) I used Orly’s London Blend to make lovely scones with an India sensibility and savor. My little scones are filled with a curried chicken salad and were very popular with my tasting team, quickly disappearing with lots of ahh’s and yum’s. The recipe is based on one from Gourmet Magazine, May, 1984  p. 118 that I used in my catering.

IMG_1558

The mise en place featuring the London Blend.

Preheat oven to 400

2 cups London Blend, sifted, spooned and leveled                                                                                                                         1 Tablespoon baking powder                                                                                                                                                            ½ teaspoon baking soda                                                                                                                                                                       1 teaspoon table salt                                                                                                                                                                              1 teaspoon cardamom                                                                                                                                                                          1 teaspoon turmeric                                                                                                                                                                            Whisk together to blend

4 tablespoons cold butter cut into bits                                                                                                                                             4 tablespoons cold shortening (I use buttery Crisco.                                                                                                                   Cut into flour blend with a pastry cutter or you fingers until the mixture resembles coarse grain)

2 tablespoons sour cream                                                                                                                                                                  ½ to ¾ cup milk (as needed)                                                                                                                                                           Stir until just blended

Turn the dough out on a floured board and knead just to bring together                                                                             Pat the dough out to ¾” thick                                                                                                                                                        Cut out with a 1-1/2” round cutter and place on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet

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1 large egg                                                                                                                                                                                                1 teaspoon water

Whisk together and brush lightly on the tops of the scones

Bake for 10 to 15 minutes until lightly golden

Makes 27  – 1-1/2” scones.

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Mise en place for the curried chicken salad for filling the scones

3 cups finely diced, skinless, poached, baked or rotisserie chicken breast                                                                                1 cup or to taste mayonnaise                                                                                                                                                              1 to 2 tablespoons Madras curry powder                                                                                                                                        ¾ cup crushed roasted cashew nuts                                                                                                                                             2/3 cup finely diced celery                                                                                                                                                                     ½ cup finely diced green apple                                                                                                                                                        ¼ cup diced dried Mandarin oranges (Trader Joe’s)                                                                                                              Salt and pepper to taste

Mix together and season to taste

Split the scones in half and fill with chicken salad the put the tops back on

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Can be covered and held refrigerated for an hour or two

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Served to a very satisfied staff and customers at North Las Vegas Joann’s.                                                               Pictured is Satie, from Sri Lanka, manager at North Las Vegas Joann’s.

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Note: Testing the Blends By Orly gluten-free flours has been an absolute delight.  Each one is cleverly named after one of the great cities of the world. After receiving her formal patisserie training from Le Cordon, Orly Gottesman went to work in a bakery to learn recipes to give her husband back his beloved pastries, found she liked the work, became a baker, opened a bakery and developed these blends to give a proper taste to gluten-free home baking. Although each blend contains nearly the same ingredients, the mixtures are designed with the proper proportions needed to give the correct balance for a certain outcome.

The entire line is usable 1:1 in place of regular wheat flour. Each 20 ounce bag comes with a recipe on the back and more recipes are available from the website – www.blendsbyorly.com. The production of Blends by Orly is impeccable – made in dedicated factories that are never shared with gluten, tree nut, dairy and corn and all natural. I recommend this brand of flour blends to all true celiacs and to the people who love them. The product is packaged in zip-top heavy-duty bags that extend the shelf life of the flours.

(You can see the video with Orly’s story and recipes on the website) //blendsbyorly.com

 

Korean Father-Son Perfect Japanese Sushi at KURA

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IMG_9076(Roberta Deen and Gerry Furth-Sides) Virtually  “hidden in broad daylight” in a sprawling Sunset Boulevard strip mall, the spacious, subdued interior of Kura Sushi Restaurant becomes the realm of a sophisticated Korean father-son team (Sunny and Daniel) offering the finest of seasonal and omakase dinners prepared in true traditional Japanese style.  Its name is accurate:  In Japan the “kura” was historically a village storehouse holding precious heirlooms and provisions to support the local community.  IMG_9080

We were served the Kaiseki, a time-honored, very classic, formally organized Japanese meal with a set course of menu dishes.  The dishes are prepared with the five basic cooking methods: raw, steamed, simmer, fried, grilled. It also refers to the elaborate collection of chef skills and techniques that go into the preparation.

The thoughtful, series of small-plate summer  omakase (oh-ma-kha-say) or chef’s choice  arrives in the traditional manner of light to dense fish, as well as  a progression in the manner of cooking, under the sure hand of Executive Chef Daniel Son.  Chef Son does show his Korean influence in bolder and often dazzling presentations.  We were especially lucky to be at Kura on a Thursday, when Chef Son receives from the famed Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo a “mystery box” of seasonal fish and seafood, usually wild, to challenge him.

A small glass of Dassai 50 Sake smoothed out all frustrated feelings about the blazing heat and traffic outdoors.  We already were impressed by Chef Son’s Corn Soup Recipe and background when we introduced him to LocalFoodEater this past spring.  //localfoodeater.com/kura-chefs-favorite-japanese-summer-corn-recipe/)

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First to arrive was a small porcelain bowl decorated with a tangle of summer flowers.  This traditional  first course to introduce the meal, Chowwon Mushi, is usually served hot, this one touched with snow crab and egg custard and carrots in a delicate yet rich dashi.

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At first glance, it is looks to be a tomato broth but underneath the golden-tinged film is another layer to be explored.

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Once stirred, the slightly chewy texture of the snow crab, the bite of carrot and the silky egg custard in the gossamer dashi broth combine into a heavenly nectar fit for the Gods.  With all due respect and apologies, “Chef Daniel  had us” with this first course.

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While we were still trying to catch out breath, the Kyushu Sashimi Flying Fish from Japan placed in front us that Chef Daniel had been working on behind the counter took it away again. Perched on a shredded daikon radish nest, the ponzu, scallion and ginger provided the exact amount of sweet, tart and texture to enhance and balance the fish.

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“Summertime is the season of the flying fish,” Chef Daniel reported.  “It is especially prized because of its roe.  The box arriving from the famous Tsukjii Fish Market in Tokyo specializes in fish for Edomae. This at one time referred to fish caught in Tokyo Bay and now includes surrounding waters from the southernmost island of Kyushu to Hokkaido – plus the best in the world that is practically attainable.

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The “behind-the-scene” props that held the fish aloft added to the fun and “insider” feeling. It is fitting that Chef Daniel, who started working at the restaurant when he was 15, has experience in the world’s top kitchens from the venerated Spago (under Chef Tenzu) to one Michelin star, Sushi Yoshizumi under Master Akira Yoshizumi, and Noma (rated best in the world). He shared, “a lot of preparation goes on for a single night.  It’s like being a part of a creative Cirque du Soleil performance where you prepare and are in sync – and the reward is in the reaction of the people you are serving.”

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The cloud-like delicacy of Hotardo Ika (baby squid) and cubed Monk fish Liver in a sauce of yuzu (citrus) and ponzu is belied by its pedestrian, brownish color.  Poached, then cooled down and flambeed with sake, ginger is added to the monk fish liver along with soy sauce and kombu.  The cleanness, the softness, the unique pairing in this initial course define everything embodied in the Kaiseki style.  “and I was born to preserve the Kaiseki style,” Executive Chef, Daniel Son, tells us as he works his art.

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Chef Daniel puts the finishing touch on Nigari Sushi (with rice) which is presented next in the progression of light to dense.  Nigari referred to “hand-pressed sushi” presented on an oblong mound of sushi rice.

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First, the  leanest, pale white Sweet Lip  Emperor Fish  is embellished only with lemon juice and Himalayan Pink Salt.  Also known as the Sweetlip Swooze, this fish ranging in lively  red to light grey colors, lives in reefs and are prized for their lovely taste.

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Chef Daniel adds a touch of  Oroshi Ponzu, ponzu with a bit of  horseradish, to the Japanese Green Fish that pairs with it.  Chef Daniel told us that the very small portion of Tokyo-style rice,  a very sweet Osaka rice best balances out the flavors of the fish.  Osaka cuisine is known for being light and the rice for enhancing, rather than interfering, with the individual flavors of the fish.

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A bit meatier, a bit firmer and a bit fattier and served with lemon and Himalayan Pink salt is “Bar-Tailed Flathead” or Magochi, paired with Madai, Japanese Sea Bream, here served with a touch of lime and Himalayan Pink Salt.  It is properly prepared with Sudashi, a rare citrus fruit.

img_9120The effervescent, intelligent server/manager, Annie, turns out to be Chef Daniel’s sister!  She presents the next course, a step up in a rich and fattier fish, with a touch stronger flavor as well.

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Inada (Young Yellowtail); Konpachi, brings with it a subtle but surprisingly different flavor and texture; and Bari, an Australian mature Yellowtail, is here served with Wasabi and a house-made soy sauce, which Daniel prepares with sake.

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Deeper in color, the Norwegian Salmon Belly lends a soft, satiny, stronger flavor. It is garnished simply with ground toasted sesame seed.  Shiroito, the Ocean trout paired with it, is dressed with Kombu, a refreshing white sea kelp with a flavor reminiscent of the ocean.

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To enhance the progression of the fish, from raw to cooked,  roasted and seared Katsuo (Skip Jack Tuna), is paired with the deeply colored Toro, medium fatty tuna, that is seared to tenderize it. Toro is a huge fish with the most belly tender for sashimi.

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I had mentioned how much I was intrigued with Hokkaido and Chef Daniel beamed when as he presented a Hokkaido Scallop from this rugged, northernmost island of Japan, renowned for its wild fish and seafood.  He enhanced it only with pickled daikon red radish and seared sesame Nori. 

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Chef Daniel was quick to let us know that in addition to the Kaiseki concept, “we have rolls and sashimi, too!”  to prove it, he brought out a crab, cucumber and Japanese mayo wrapped in Nori as the last though of the meal before dessert.

 

img_9149Dessert was a meal unto itself as well – and shows the best of Daniel’s  playful Korean influence, along with his work at world famous restaurant. Chef Daniel has taken the street food, Taiyaki, the little red bean paste and custard-filled fish batter mold cookies.  The chef  added to it house made Black Sesame ice cream with a black sesame crumble.  A whimsical abundance of riches after a spectacular meal.

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Colorful rows of chopsticks on a divided wall shelf welcome KURA “regulars” into the restaurant with a friendly-community manner.  The chopsticks are used to eat sashimi and not the nigiri sushi we were privileged to enjoy, which are always eaten with your fingers even in the most formal of settings.

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Embracing both family and community, KURA has established itself as a “Purveyer of Fine Sushi and Japanese Cuisine” since it opened 15 years ago in a Sunset Boulevard strip mall at Crescent Heights in West Hollywood.  “Audaciously refreshing” describes the experience best.

Kura – www.kura-sushi.com
8162 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, CA  90046 (323) 656-6347

Heinz BBQ Sauce Updates The American Picnic Grill

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(Chef Roberta Deen) Heinz Pitmaster Collection has certainly secured an eye-level position on grocery store shelves. The Collection features five new regional barbecue sauces created in collaboration with five regionally famous chefs or Pitmasters as they are known in the fire-and-brimstone competitive world of serious grilling over open flames. Each collaboration has produced a distinctive flavor that pairs well with a wide range of meats and vegetables. Bottled in convenient top-side down, get-every-last-drop bottles, these sauces will encourage the buyer to be as innovative and fearless as the Masters themselves.
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For example, “great Kansas City style” barbecue traditionally aims for a perfect balance of thick, sweet and tangy. So Heinz teamed up with Kansas City natives and award-winning Pitmasters,  Joe and Mike Pearce, to craft Kansas City Sweet and Smoky.   I tried it on a simple chicken breast. My barbecue was not set up yet so I abundantly slathered the sauce on the chicken and oven-roasted. I felt that this was a vital test passed with flying colors as chicken breast is my least favorite cut. It so often comes out dry and tasteless. Not in this case. The sauce is thick and rich enough to stay on the chicken, coating it well and producing a tender moist breast. This sauce is described by the company as “a true classic -sweet, thick, deliciously balanced, 100% natural, and sure to please!”  I ate every last bite, mopping up every stray dollop of sauce.
Real Carolina barbeque is all about the deep-rooted traditions of whole-hog barbeque slow cooked over wood coals. Heinz teamed up with third-generation pitmaster Sam Jones, of the legendary Skylight Inn BBQ in Ayden, North Carolina to craft a true sauce that blends the distinctive tang of apple cider with the just right bit of sweet and spice to make it work well with every cook’s favorite pulled pork dish.
I used the Carolina Tangy Vinegar-Style  in a very non-traditional manner.  I slightly undercooked the first sweet corn on the cob of the season using a technique I learned from the internet. (Photos included), brushed generously with the Carolina Tangy, then (again because the grill was not set up) broiled the ears, basting and turning frequently until nicely browned. I gave them one last basting, sprinkled them with grated Parmesan cheese and served. Some of my guests ate the corn on the cob and others asked for it to be cut off the cob. Both versions were totally devoured.  The new “technique” made a great hit and everyone loved that no butter or salt were added.

This is a technique I learned on the internet to clean and cook corn on the cob.  It truly works and makes a quick and easy job of preparation.

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Cut a portion of the long stem end of the corn so it will fit into the plastic wrap easily.FullSizeRender

Wrap up the whole ear and seal well. Microwave a pair of ears in a 1000 watt microwave for 4 minutes.

Do not unwrap. Cut through the stem end far enough up the ear to see that the leaves are cut free and you can see the corn.

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Grasp the hot corn with a clean kitchen towel and pull and twist until the husk and silk slip off.

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Perfectly clean and ready to eat or to get creative with.
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I brushed liberally with the new Heinz Pitmaster Barbecue sauce – Carolina Tangy. It has an apple cider vinegar tang to it that will compliment the sweetness of the corn.
Grill or broil until nice and charred. I sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese and served to very happy guests. Simple, a little bit different, nice and tangy from the sauce and the sweetness.

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My final experiment was with the Texas Bold and Spicy from Pitmaster Robert Sierra, a grand champion Pitmaster from San Marcos, Texas. As advertised, there was nothing shy about this thick and bold sauce. It is spicy but will not drive the “no heat and chile” crowd from the table. This time I used Angus 80% ground beef, top of the line, lightly mixed in about a third of a cup of the Texas Bold sauce into the meat and formed patties. I pan-fried the patties to medium-rare, gave them one last brush of sauce on top and served them up with a side of sauce for dipping. Not a morsel of the richly-flavored meat or sauce was left.

The outside grill is in the process of being set up for the summer launch and I am looking forward to trying all five of these new sauces on slow-cooked pork, leg of lamb and lots of great vegetable combinations. They will all be winners this season.

This collection also includes the Memphis Style Sweet & Spicy BBQ Sauce, from the birthplace of Rock ‘n Roll, designed to be rich and sweet with a pop of spice. For this, Heinz teamed up with Dan Brown of Memphis’ own Leonard’s PIT Barbeque — a barbeque institution since 1922. With sweet brown sugar and the flavors of the region’s traditional dry rubs, this is a sweet and spicy sauce.

Authentic New IzakayaSLOWfish Adds Asian-Fusion Allure

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IZAKAYA SLOW FISH(Roberta Deen and staff) American versions of Izakayas have  been popular in America for years, sushi usually being the draw, with several in Los Angeles fully booked for their entire 24-hour daily runs.   Owner John Lee recently introduced a more classic version at Izakaya by Slow Fish in West Hollywood.   His executive chef, Hyunchang Han, trained in Tokyo to learn the Japanese version of dishes, and in New York to master current, popular American trends.  Chef Han and his crew strut their stuff in the compact performance kitchen along one side wall fronted by a specially built grill.   Below is a photo by Yakir Levy.

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Chef Steve is there to also oversee the preparation. ChefAnd all lined up on the serving board is an array of their work, still smoking.

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Because this izakaya is in Los Angeles, Lee and Han added Asian-Fusion, plus Korean and California -inspired dishes to familiarize patrons with the concept gradually.  Lee understood that more than simply “a tavern that serves small plates,” a true “izakaya”  as “a fun hangout for unwinding, relaxing and sharing” calls not only for “gastropub food with owner and chef pride of fare,” but an appealing menu to the wide range of diners.  In this place guests are seated at the long, colorful banquette-style tables or on the snug outside deck of the set back free-standing little building.

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The Izakaya menu of simple comfort dishes aims for perfect bites of savory and umami.   Izakaya by Slowfish features the most updated classic  bites that go well with the soft drinks, beers, wines and Sake on the menu.   Special Soju cocktails are also offered.

IMG_7789Infused sous are, in fact,  a specialty of the house.  Apple, grapefruit and hot pepper lemon are the three current flavors.  Fruits infuse the alcohol for well over a month in bottles that decorate Izakaya’s shelves overlooking the dining room.  The more they sit to infuse the more flavorful they become, so patrons are encouraged to keep trying them for up to six months regularly to taste the difference after the first bottles are opened.

Edamame  in a blistered pod arrives at the table in a most startlingly beautiful makeover with smoked and grilled  green soybeans cradled in a corn husk (left)

IMG_7728Corn on the Cob is grilled, sprinkled with Parmesan cheese and paprika powder for a smoky flavor that has become a classic Latin take on an American picnic favorite. Slowfish Fries are wedge-cut and delicately sprinkled with rosemary andserved with a trio of dipping sauces: spicy mayo, ketchup and bacon-mustard sauce. (Shown below)

IMG_7749IMG_7735Taco Yaki, a favorite ball-shaped Japanese snack made of a wheat flour-based batter is cooked in a special takoyaki pan. Tucked inside is tender, chopped octopus, tempura batter bits, pickled ginger and green onion.

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House Fish Cake (shown below) are balls filled with delicate ground white fish with calamari – not on the menu yet.

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MEAT SECTION choices radiate with Korean influence.  The Galbi Skewers, marinated beef galbi and rice cake on a skewer with grilled veggies tops the list. The presentation of  sticky rice lollipops almost steals the show.  In Korea they are served as street food and children’s snacks, sprinkled with sugar.IMG_7754

 

The Rib Eye Steak is dressed with balsamic sauce, along with red and green peppers. IMG_7764

 Jeon, the classic pancakes, are a “must” on any Izakaya menu. Jeon is also popular in Korean cuisine with many versions of the past developed for royal court cuisine.

IMG_7770An assortment platter with one each of shiitake, seafood, pork and hot pepper offers a preview selection. Another version is the Chopped Shrimp, Hot Peppers and Ground Beef filled Pancakes in the form of seared patties, similar to crab cakes.

Chicken Karagae, the famous Japanese-style fried chicken is lightly coated in a subtle batter.

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Also known as Champon, Nagasaki noodles from the region of the same name, are considered a favorite “comfort food.” Inspired by Chinese cuisine, the dish is considered both Japanese and Chinese. Ramen noodles made especially for champon are boiled right in the soup so the flavor seeps through them as they cook.

One reason to visit is the Seafood Yakiudon, fat little noodles stir-fried with shrimp, calamari and scallop in a rich, rich sauce with just enough to coat it and have some at the bottom. The rice paper bowl is edible. IMG_7778

Kimchi Fried Brown Rice is pan-fried and topped with pork slices and a quail egg. IMG_7767Garlic Seafood Rice speaks an international language of pan-fried rice with garlic, shrimp, mussels, calamari, scallions, leeks and asparagus – with a buzz of .

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Salads have an American and European influence. A Mango Salad is rich with fruit, mixed greens, beets and teardrop tomatoes, topped with sweet potato and a beet tempura “frisee”  – coated lightly with a textured sesame dressing.

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Korean influence in the high-style sushi means bigger, bolder creations in the SPECIAL ROLLS section, rather than  those found in more delicate Japanese creations.  The same type of complex design is in place with sideview as complex as a roadmap.   A burning salt mound creates a fiery sensation for the Dragon Roll of crabmeat, avocado, tempura shrimp, eel and eel sauce.A burning salt mound creates a fiery sensation for the Dragon Roll of crabmeat, avocado, tempura shrimp, eel and eel sauce.

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The Dragon itself sports jagged scales of taro paper. The gallery of SPECIAL ROLLS marching across snowy white platters deserve notice, each one with a different set of textures.

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IMG_7780This high regard for sushi and sashimi comes as no surprise.  Chef Sean An’s fish and seafood creations at the two original Slow Fish locations on the Miracle Mile and in Huntington Beach, inspired by the slow food movement, are acclaimed for freshness and sustainability.

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Kevin Kang’s sophisticated festive atmosphere celebrates the concept of Izakaya by Slowfish.  The designer’s muscular, organic WEHO exterior features bold wood and metal lines accented in red and chocolate colors.  The low slung, inviting interior looks out onto a snug patio in front.  Cheery, pop-art, painted cushions on the bench seats throughout the room and on wall hangings bring a sunny California feel. The Korean symbol framed under glass on one wall translates into “strength.” Whimsical Asian paintings enliven other walls.

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Customers can order at the counter near the door for quick service. Manager Iren Kim and her crew are there to welcome and host guests.IMG_6896 (1)

Opening Specials and dishes are being offered now.

Izakaya By Slowfish, 8267 Santa Monica Blvd, West Hollywood, CA, 90046 (323) 745-0533. //izakayaslowfish.com/.