roberta deen

San Francisco Salt Company Goes Global with Salt

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(Roberta Deen) Salt is both a necessity and a luxury. We need it in appropriate quantities to survive, but we can also use it to soften skin, soothe muscles, and relax our bodies, to name just a few benefits.

This St. Patrick’s Day, the “Dusting the Wild Irish Salmon Roses Salad” received “oohs and “ahas” when I brought them to the table.  IMG_1131
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My guests were even more impressed when they tasted the dusting of Cherry Smoked Sea Salt on them.

IMG_6005I was thrilled when I learned of so many other salts in the world besides just Morton’s iodized table salt.  I grew up with that little girl with her umbrella thinking that was all there was to salt.

So it came as a  lovely  surprise when I became a professional catering chef to learn that salts came from all around the world, in a multitude of flavors, colors and textures. It was a culinary revelation to learn that there were salts to cook with (good old Morton’s) and salts with which to finish dish.

One cautionary note: I always loved the taste of salt, so I tended to under salt as I cooked and sprinkle heavily over the dish to meet that craving for flavor.

San Francisco Salt Company        www.sfsalt.com )provides  a huge array of the highest quality salts, some of which I have found individually over the years  from different companies.  All have been fun to play with – a bit on this, a dusting on that – until each found its own place on my palate and became a perfect fit for certain dishes.  Smoked salt can transform and perfect a mixed green salad, for example.

bath-salts-or-food-saltsFrench salt, Irish Flake salt, Mexican pyramid-shaped salt, Hawaiian Black salt, Himalayan pink salt, rust red salt – each with a distinctive taste and crunch – provides a distinctive addition to different dishes.

Now one of the largest importers of specialty salts in the country, San Francisco Salt Company selects only the best premium-quality salts from around the world for their new line of gourmet chef salts.  Just a pinch or two can transform a meal from mundane to delectable while providing vital nutrients that are essential to human life and healthful diets.

We’ve tried a small selection of their top-selling salts and look forward to trying them all: Ultimate Salt Blend – Gourmet Salt Trio, Pacific Sea Salt – Pure & Natural, Flor De Sal – Guatemalan Sea Salt, Black Truffle Sea Salt, Fennel Saffron Sea Salt, French Grey Sea Salt, Kosher Chef Salt, Lemon Rosemary Salt, Mediterranean Sea Salt, Sherpa Pink® Himalayan Salt, Smoked Cherrywood Sea Salt, and Smoked Applewood Sea Salt.

Meanwhile Gerry Furth-Sides in Los Angeles tried the Ultimate Blend in oatmeal in crispy pancake form (show below).  She reported that “it turned to look inviting and was fun to eat.

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“It was simply bulk oatmeal cooked in a pot, with black Hawaiian Lava salt from the San Francisco Salt Company, then cooked until lacey.  A little pour of natural honey was the final touch before serving it in a black bowl.2016-03-08 10.56.45  “What a lively breakfast because of the different textures,” added Gerry.  The snap of the Hawaiian Lava salt gives it ‘wake up’ flavor.  Each of the salts adds a little bit different taste.

“Even though I didn’t disagree with the top chefs I worked with that salt brings out the taste of an item, now I’m a believer.  Truly, a sprinkle of The Perfect Blend or the Hawaiian Blend even transforms the otherwise fairly bland, blank canvas, Bieler Healing Soup, made from string beans, zucchini, cilantro or parsley, onion, broth, black pepper, oil. ”

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The mission of The San Francisco Salt Company is “to raise public awareness of the amazing benefits of natural sea salts by harnessing the power of the ocean to enhance well-being, from the inside out.”

The idea started after British founder, Lee Williamson, discovered balancing long work days with long soaks and bath salts in the tub each night led to “feeling fresh and invigorated each morning after a good night’s sleep and with skin as a soft as a baby.” It inspired him to spread the word of the amazing benefits of bathing in sea salts.  So in 2002 the San Francisco Salt Company was created.

He met with instant success.  In his words, “with the growing demand for gourmet salts, and continued requests by retail and wholesale customers, it was no surprise a few years later when we expanded into gourmet chef salts to become now one of the largest speciality salt suppliers in the U.S.A. We now offer an extensive line of bath and shower salts to soothe, cure, and promote relaxation, as well as a line of gourmet chef salts to guarantee just the right flavors for your dishes.  The design, develop, and package of all of our salt products is done in our San Francisco facility.”

For more information on the company, please see: www.sfsalt.com.  There are a number of recipes and a blog for the latest news and updates.

For a singular, entertaining and enormously educational experience, we suggest the book, SALT by bestselling author, Mark Kurlansky.    In his fifth non-fiction work, Kurlansky turns his attention to the household item with a long and intriguing history. 9780142001615The only rock we eat, salt has shaped civilization from the very beginning, and its story is a glittering, often surprising part of the history of humankind. A substance so valuable it served as currency, salt has influenced the establishment of trade routes and cities — it was a surprise to learn that animals headed to the same salt licks over and over originated trails that became roads.  Salt provoked and financed wars, secured empires, and inspired revolutions. Populated by colorful characters and filled with an unending series of fascinating details, Salt by Mark Kurlansky is rightfully touted by the publisher as “a supremely entertaining, multi-layered masterpiece.” Mark Kurlansky also wrote  Cod, The Basque History of the World, 1968, and The Big Oyster.

American Michael Finizio Reimagines the Ravioli Rolling Pin

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(Roberta Deen) Simple in design and made from sustainable, quality solid hardwood, the Fonde (fon-dee) Ravioli Rolling Pin from Repast Supply Co. is touted as the tool to “create perfect ravioli every time with no mess and no fuss.” So we engaged Catering Chef and highly respected professional recipe tester, Roberta Deen, to see how it worked. Here is Roberta’s account with photos, followed by a short history of how the enormously popular Ravioli dish originated.

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Rolling pin is a humble name for this elegant, architectural kitchen tool.

With its blond walnut and dark maple wood, smooth and soothing touch and sculptural qualities it immediately becomes an object of desire. That it fulfills its purpose with such efficiency and effectiveness is a true bonus among all the gadgets that burden our countertops and fill our cabinets. This little work of art has its roots in a distant necessity that demanded the ability to make more than one at a time in the Italian past. Its given name is raviolatrice – a clever wooden honeycomb of spaces that quickly rolls out little pillows of stuffed pasta. Even as a catering chef of 30 years, I had never seen one. I had struggled with those aluminum forms that made 12 ravioli at a time. It’s not that they didn’t work. They were just inefficient and certainly weren’t artful objects that you will always want on display.

When I was offered the opportunity to experiment with the Repast’s objet d’arte, I literally pounced on it. I couldn’t take my eyes off of it even though I was totally unsure how to use it. As it turns out, it is quite self-explanatory once you follow the simple instructions in the tiny booklet attached to the rolling pin.

I decided to attempt something that linked the beautiful updated rolling pin to the introduction of pasta into Italy by travelers such as Marco Polo and the spice traders. I used a basic pasta recipe (2 cups flour, 3 large eggs, a pinch of salt and a teaspoon of Tunisian extra-virgin olive oil) with the addition of curry powder.

IMG_1308 IMG_1309 IMG_1310 After letting the dough rest an hour or so, I hand-rolled the dough out into 4 equal strips of 7” wide (the width of the rolling pin) and about 17-18” long. It is a thorough workout to do it by hand but does give a real sense of accomplishment. If you use a hand or electric pasta machine you will only get two rows of ravioli instead of the three that I was able to achieve because you are limited by the width of your machine. Width is more important than length in this case.

I played with a tried and true recipe that I had used to made wontons when I was catering by using finely shredded carrots, onions, cilantro, Madras curry powder, cumin, diced dried mandarin tangerine segments and cashew nuts with just a touch of flour to bind.
IMG_1313 IMG_1314 IMG_1316It seemed to me that the mixture picked up flavors from the length of the spice road from China back to Italy.

You lay out one of your lengths of dough, spread evenly with your filling mixture (leaving a clean edge all around the outside), brush the edge lightly with water, top with the second length of dough and press firmly around that outside edge to seal.

Then you take that beautiful, smooth rolling pin in hand, pressing firmly roll from the narrow end nearest you to the far end and look admiringly at the three even rows of pillows you have just created.

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Next you take a knife in hand or one of the rippled pasta wheels and cut the rows into plump, perfect ravioli. IMG_1320

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You place the individual ravioli on parchment paper on a baking sheet, cover with a clean, light kitchen towel and let them rest while you bask in your success. Perhaps a glass of chilled Pinot Grigio is in order at this point.

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Next is a large pot with an abundance of really boiling salted water. Slide the ravioli in (don’t crowd too much) and cook to taste. Some prefer really al dente (a phrase meaning “to the tooth” or quite firm), others prefer to cook the pasta to a softer but not too soft texture. Drain quickly, toss with some butter, shave over some really good Parmigiano-Reggiano, grind a bit of fresh black pepper, garnish with a sprig of fresh cilantro and serve.

This rolling pin will work with any good pasta (you may try it with sheets of fresh pasta from a local restaurant) and any type of filling – cheese, meat, veggie – that is not too liquid. I will be checking out their web site www.repastsupply.com to view their other products and recipes.

Ravioli (plural form; singular: raviolo) are one of the most popular shapes of pasta, a type of dumpling composed of a filling sealed between two layers of thin pasta dough. Usually served either in broth or with a pasta sauce, they originated as a traditional food in Italian cuisine. Ravioli are typically square, though other forms are also used, including circular or semi-circular (mezzelune). Other related filled pastas include the ring-shaped tortellini and the larger tortelloni.

The history of ravioli is yet another well of stories and myths of delicious human creation The word itself may derive form the Latin rabiola (a little turnip) whose shape resembles ravioli, or from ravolgere (to wrap) directly suggesting the way ravioli are made. Enjoyed worldwide, but where do ravioli actually come from?

The city of Cremona claims to be the birthplace, competing for this title with Genoa that traces back the etymology of the word back to their dialect word for the pasta, rabiole, which signifies something of little value and, the legend has it, originates from the practice of local sailors who would wrap the leftovers from one meal in a thin sheets of dough to use for another meal and to break the monotony of a sailor’s diet.

IMG_1326Michael’s mission is to inspire people everywhere to slow down, roll up their sleeves and cook a meal with someone they love. He’s an engineer who earned a bachelors degree from Syracuse and a master’s degree at for Tufts, who graduated from college and started working a structured job.  But the woodworker and foodie above all loves bringing people together around the kitchen table.  Michael is happiest when combining good food and good wine with good company.  So he created and developed the pin while working.  Michael eventually was so successful he can devote full time to it now.

All Repast Supply Co. rolling pins come pre-treated with food-grade mineral oil and with proper care will last a lifetime. Repast Supply Co. believes very strongly in sustainability, which is why they plant 100 trees for every tree used in production.

Watch how perfect ravioli is made every time with the Fonde Ravioli Rolling Pin! //youtu.be/NvMqJN577_U

Available in several sizes, The Fonde (fon-dee) Ravioli Rolling Pin from Repast Supply Co. can be on the company’s website, //www.repastsupplyco.com/.

Easter Irish Easter Bread with the Chickpea Flour Cookbook

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(Roberta Deen) The soda bread is a welcome addition to the ham, herbed potatoes and asparagus with pavlova for dessert at Easter.   Using  The Chickpea Flour Cookbook by Camilla V. Saulsbury with “Healthy Gluten-Free Recipes to Power Every Meal of the Day” is a workable way to make the meal.
I was interested in the book because I have a sister with a diagnosis of celiac disease and because I was familiar with chickpea flour from catering a few Indian parties and liked the flavor. I had also always enjoyed the middle eastern crispy falafel patties served in pita bread. So it was an interesting venture to explore Ms. Saulsbury’s beautifully photographed book of intriguing and inventive recipes.
I chose the Irish Soda Breads with Everything Bagel Topping recipe because, again, I love both things: soda bread and everything bagels in their original forms. I found Camilla’s recipe to be creative, easy to follow and accompanied by great hints and variations on the theme.  I have included photos in this post (below the dishes) to illustrate each step as Camilla sets them out, carefully guiding the cook along the way. The resulting individual soda breads came out exactly as she pictured them (which is high praise from me).
As you can see in the picture, the breads came out beautifully browned with the colorful dried onion, dried garlic, poppy seed and sesame seed topping. Personally, I didn’t care for the final texture but the bread-starved celiacs at the table loved them.
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The combination of ham and eggs about the most popular on any modern menu, but they also star in Easter ritual dating back to ancient times. This year another classic, Mediterranean cuisine, dresses them both up smartly.

The holiday tradition of decorated eggs to celebrate Easter and the coming of spring is as universal, deep and vital  because it mythologizes that the whole universe created out of an egg. The old Latin proverb, “Omne vivum ex ovo” or “all life comes from an egg” expresses this perfectly.

Ham is also considered a delicious Easter tradition in America and goes back to ancient times in terms of ritual.

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Irish Soda Bread

It goes back to Noah’s great grandson, Tammuz, who became a mighty king after he was deified by his wife/mother as the “sun-god” Baal. She created a sunrise ceremony to worship him – better known these days as “Easter Sunrise services. She named herself up the goddess “Ishtar” or as it later became known, “Easter.”

When Tammuz was killed, Ishtar decreed a forty-day period to mark the anniversary of his death during which no meat was to be eaten. The event is now known as the source of Lent, which ends with a celebratory meal on thåt first Sunday after the first full moon after the spring equinox. (Yes, it is also the Passover holiday!) Ishtar proclaimed that because a pig killed Tammuz, a pig must be eaten on that Sunday. And so we have our wonderful ham centerpiece dish at Easter

The Soda Bread
The dough mixture is truly a soda bread blend using the chickpea flour and flax seed meal for a texture that comes closer to corn bread than real soda bread but does include the classic buttermilk and baking soda for rising with the addition of eggs and a touch of honey for sweetness. It mixes up very quickly and easily into a soft and somewhat sticky dough. I recommend using a “granny fork” (a heavy duty, old-fashioned 4 tined mixing fork) to blend the dough efficiently. I used a 12-space regular-sized muffin tin and spray greased the cups.  The dough was easily portioned with a regular-sized ice-cream scoop filling the cups almost full (the dough rises but not dramatically so you fill the cups more than with cake or muffin mixtures). It took a bit longer in my oven to fully cook but I think that is due to the density and heaviness of the dough.  The topping can be a bit overwhelming if used with a heavy hand (mine – more is always better) but there are plenty of alternatives offered with the recipe.
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The  egg, honey, buttermilk flour blend whisked together
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The resulting dough
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The filled muffin tin IMG_1150 The finished soda bread on white Wedgwood
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 I am looking forward to trying the Cranberry & Pepita Biscotti and the Graham Crackers to use for pie crusts for the gluten-free crowd. All of her categories are full of ideas that are appealing, well worth exploring and easily approachable for the less experienced and challenging enough for the experienced cook. The introduction and the Chickpea Flour Pantry contain a wealth of in-depth nutritional and dietary information as well.
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