Studio City restaurants

Leona’s: Fusion Sushi with a Pedigree

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Even the door to Leona’s Studio City is a thing of beauty

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Friends in the food business often want to team up on a restaurant. In this case it was bound to be successful when the friends were La Loggia owner, Frank Leon and long-time friend, Sushi Master Chef Shigenori Fujimoto. The third “sweat-equity” partner is actor-Evan Ross (son of Diana).

Chef Shigenori Fujimoto of Leona’s in Studio city getting ready to step behind the sushi counter

Leon has been so involved with the “Boulevard” community at his popular La Loggia for 30 years, he was dubbed, “Mayor of Studio City.” From the beginning the welcome mat was out. Additionally, because of his own hard work, Leon has had the mentorship of his former legendary employers and customers all along the way.

“When we were getting La Loggia ready to open,” Frank recalls, “we would arrive in the morning to find business cards from CBS and NBC under the door! Affable, savvy Frank also became friends with some of the biggest hitters in town. So not surprisingly it became known as the most popular valley places to meet and to broker deals.

Once the additional building was added to his playing field, Leon has been able to keep up with the area’s changing needs in addition to maintaining La Loggia all these years. The additional site (including the middle driveway footage) has been home to the Village and then Ceremony, which merged Mexican and European cuisines.

Frank’s own immigrant success story from literally the bottom rung also started with him being in the right place at the right time. And he made the most of it at an astonishingly young age.

Leon, who came to the States from Costa Rica at the age of 17, started at the top with a “bottom” position at the legendary REX in the Oviatt Building in downtown LA and steadily worked his way up. His only “other” restaurant stint was at the equally famous Jimmy’s in Century City, where he served a celerity clientele and learned the first week who “the rat pack” was since they were regulars.

Friends, colleagues Frank Leon and Chef Shige Fujimoto at Leona’s, Studio City

Chef Shige Fujimoto is from the Gifu Prefecture in Japan. He trained in traditional washoku along with sushi, then started his career in Japan. When he arrived in the United States, he worked at Matsuhisa Restaurant, the former Shige in Santa Monica, Irori in Marina del Rey and Asanebo on the famously competitive Studio City Ventura “Boulevard.”

“If you can make it here, you can make it anywhere,” goes the saying. Chef Shige proved even more when earned a Michelin Star for his work at Asanebo. This spring Leona’s earned a spot in the Michelin Guide for Leona’s.

Leona’s Studio City, Sushi Master Shigenori “Shige” Fujimoto ready to work (photo courtesy of the restaurant )

Every inch of the nearly 5000-square restaurant complex behind the bold, rustic door is inviting and lovingly planned out. The huge hanging plants alone are breathtaking. Owner Frank laughed, “we are in here every day to tend to them and talk to them.”

Below is by row by row starting at the top: the outdoor middle patio (that once was a driveway), the “speakeasy” on the west end that formerly The Village.  

Every one of the three sections at Leona’s Studio City has been crafted to perfection

With three restaurant spaces to work with, there is an opportunity to see what works and what can be changed. The Peruvian and Japanese fusion menu was planned to include a variety of small plates, fresh sushi, and original cocktails.

Below is an OMAKESE SUSHI SAMPLER (MP) with a side of horseradish and ginger. The server is friendly, intelligent Nelly.

Nelly holds sushi at Leona’s in Studio City. Sushi dishes and platters (MP)
Albacore with jalapeño peppers at Leona’s in Studio City

A sample of the “small bites” favorite CROQUETTES , blue crab croquettes, mizuna, tartar sauce ($14 for 3).

Croquette samplers at Leona’s Studio City
Frank Leon added a whimsical, refreshing lambrusco to our meeting on a warm afternoon

Enticing fusion specialties on the Leona’s menu feature our favorites: Hokkaido Scallop, yuzu buta belly, (braised pork belly), pork chop oxtail and corn tempura:

Leona’s Sushi House, 11814 Ventura Blvd, Studio City, CA 91604. (818) 985-9222. Follow on instagram and Facebook and for details please see the website: www.leonasla.com.

For our LocalFoodEater.com stories on exquisite sushi, please see:

For the story of Q: //localfoodeater.com/q-sushi-brings-japanese-endomae-style-america/

The story of Mori sushi: //localfoodeater.com/the-story-of-legendary-mori-sushi/

For coverage on Ricardo Zarate’s Japanese-Peruvian restaurant, please see: //localfoodeater.com/ethnic-fusions-best-new-friend-causita/

New Global-Inspired Dishes at Inspired SOCA in Sherman Oaks

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Chef-owner Aron Robbins’ new global-inspired lunch program ($14-25) arrives just in time for summer in his spiffy new steak and seafood destination, SOCA  in Sherman Oaks.  It is as contemporary, as it is timeless.   Chef Robbins and his staff capture the tastes of  South America and Southeast Asia accented by French techniques in  sandwiches, salads, and small plates.  The flavors are classic, bold and clear,  each dish with a memorable unique twist.

No. 8 Spanish new Spanish Gin Cocktail Menu

“Refreshing, satisfying and original”  also covers the new SOCA menu of Spanish Gin tonics ($14).  The cocktails combine selected Gins with tonic water and a variety of fruits, berries, herbs and botanicals.   No. 8 (above) shows off the enticing ingredients: Barr Bill Gin, Fever Tree Bitter Lemon, Shiso, Lemon Peel, Ardbeg Candied Ginger.  The list is numbered because the menu is frequently rotated.  There is even a friendly note on the bottom, “if you don’t see what you’re looking for please ask!”

The elegant, gleaming SOCA with roll up patio window shades and a stunning interior (image courtesy of SOCA)

Robbins told us that the encourages his staff, headed by Chef Oliver Krant, to be creative.  We know that it was his own grandmother’s old-school style of Jewish cooking that originally inspired his culinary career; he did not need to mention that he as overseer of the menu has mastered the basics of bold, appealing combinations, refined and totally complementary to each other.

Robbins is the only valley member of LA’s “insiders’  Top Chefs” that have worked their solid magic for decades, including  Bruce Marder, Neal Fraser and Hans Rockenwagner.

Smoke River Farms American Wagyu (Image courtesy SOCA Restaurant)

Menu highlights include  magnificent burger of Smoke River Farms American Wagyu — and it is about the best burger anywhere.  I am not a fan of Wagyu because it lacks texture;  Robbin’s burger utilizes this attribute as it should be.   He adds the perfect complement of Grafton Cheddar, Roasted Shallot-Tomato Aioli, Arugula, House Pickled Onion, Shallot-Sherry Compote on a House Made roll and (addictive) skinny frites.

You might know Robbins as the long-time proprietor of Boneyard Bistro //boneyardbistro.com/down the street in Studio City, the “go-to place” for ribs.  We on “the other side of the hill” know him as the devoted valley “native” and community-minded activist we often see at events.  Robbins, who was raised in  Encino, makes you believe that LA has continuity on some level.  He can rhapsodize easily and knowledgeably on each Ventura Boulevard community’s identity and history.

In these shaky times, both in the restaurant and the political world as Robbins pointed out, we begin with our favorite dish of the day, dessert, first.  Here it is the spectacular Strawberry Raspado – Rhubarb-Tajin Pate de Fruit, Margarita Crisp ($12).  It has every texture your little mouth could desire on a hot day – crunchy, smooth, crispy and chewy. Even if this dessert is without an ethnic background, it  makes history on its own.

 

A lover of the chopped salad, this one is a new favorite: Mediterranean Chop with Grilled Artichokes & Shitakes, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, Kalamata Olives, Fresh Tomato, French Feta, Hearts of Palm, Mediterranean Vinaigrette and julienne salami.  The popular Korean Crab Dumplings were not a favorite because on a hot day they can cook to a hard consistency.

Southeast Asian Steak Salad($20) needs only the ingredient list to prove its classic-in-the-making dish qualities:  marinated grilled flank steak, Thai herbs, beef nuac cham, shaved lemongrass & shallots, and frisee.


A Fresh Fire-Roasted Albacore Tuna Salad Sandwich ($19), thoughtfully cut into slices to share here, features a of medley of fresh herbs, caper aioli, red onion, tomato, and greens

Dry-Aged Prime Beef Dip ($20) with arugula, balsamic fig-onion marmalade, creamed horseradish, and St. Agur blue cheese also shows off Chef Robbins’ way with meat. We toast it and the menu with a second No. 8.

SOCA, 14015 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, CA 91423.  Hours are on the website.

www.soca-la.com/

 

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