Upper West Restaurant Archives

Art Openings are Back at Artful Upper West!

May 20, 2022 Comments Off

(Gerry Furth-Sides) It was an event to look forward to and did not disappoint: The first Sunday Art Opening Reception first art opening in over two years to welcome local Artist Bobbie Rich (@bobbierichfineart) to the walls of Upper West.

Opening reception for Local artist Bobbie Rich at Upper West

The buzz was immediate as soon as you walked in the door to be greeted with almost every table full. The artist met family and friends, and new friends. Her latest works are on the walls for the season. Guests enjoyed light snacks, wine, and community!

Bobbie Rich at her art reception at Upper West

The buzz at the opening reception for Local artist Bobbie Rich at Upper West

Favorite comedian, character actor, Mindy Sperling at the Upper West art reception

Art imitating life at the Upper West art reception! (Look at the painting upper right)

From formally dressed youngsters out with their parents to “real cool” at Upper West Restaurant

Out total favorite table withUpper West Owner-Partner, Fred, joined by artists, Maureen Tepedino (left) and Debbie Singer (right)

And of course there was the food! Last year the reopening of our gorgeous rustic neighborhood favorite last meant pared down hours (dinner only five nights a week) and a pared down menu from Chef Nick Shipp that was still sensational. California-fresh, ingredients enhanced each Mediterranean inspires dish to make each one feel like a classic: Sweet & Spicy Spare Ribs with samba-honey glass, watermelon and cilantro.

**Sweet & Spicy Spare Ribs** with samba-honey glass, watermelon and cilantro at Upper West

Inventive Chargrilled Whole Octopus ($22) with hummus, sweet pepper, thai basil, shaved fennel, passion fruit vinegar and sumac has a slight crunch to the bite and is tender inside. This could be a new favorite, and has the same slight surprise of sumac that was in the signature corn soup!

Grilled Artichoke Hearts with an ethereal citrus aioli, as stunning in color as in the mellowed, tart flavor, with fennel pollen, parmigiana-reggiano and herbs.

**Grilled Artichoke Hearts at Upper West Restaurant**

Roasted Cauliflower ($13), generous enough as a sharing plate is rich in middle eastern flavors with chimichurri spice, barberries, tahini, pine nuts with an Asian crunch twist of toasted panko. It’s always fun to learn and we had to ask about the “barberries” here.

It turns out that barberries are long red berries that grow on shrubs, which have branches covered in yellow flowers. Known as zereshk in Iran, barberries have long been part of traditional medicine. They not only grow in Persia but they are found in America and Asia. The American version is more sweet than the European or Middle Eastern version. Barberries add a kick of citrusy flavor to dishes, like the neutral cauliflower, that needed an extra boost of brightness.

Roasted cauliflower, tender and filled with flavor

Even Nick’s obsession-worthy, take-away Burger Box last year as consolation, there is nothing like “coming home” to have a dinner in the glassed-in patio in front of the open French windows with the partners and chef’s welcome.

And so is the Adelaida Cab (2016) from Paso Robles that just always has to be on the wine list (by the glass and bottle). Guests like me are usually affectionately labeled “prima Dona” — I get stuck on items I .

Upper West Restaurant, 3321 W. Pico Blvd. (33^rd Street), Santa Monica, CA. (310) 586-1111, www.theupperwest.com.

Upper West’s Surprising New Ethnic Menu

July 4, 2021 Comments Off

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Reopening at our gorgeous rustic neighborhood favorite means pared down hours (dinner only five nights a week) and a pared down menu from Chef Nick Shipp that is SENSATIONAL!

Even with Nick’s obsession-worthy, take-away Burger Box last year, it was like “coming home” to have a dinner in the glassed-in patio in front of the open French windows with the partners and chef’s welcome. Thank you for the menu suggestions. We were ecstatic.

The Upper West Restaurant Burger Box on a Plate

Just enough unexpected, California-fresh, ingredients enhanced each Mediterranean inspires dish to make each one feel like a classic: Sweet & Spicy Spare Ribs with samba-honey glass, watermelon and cilantro. Grilled Artichoke Hearts with an ethereal citrus aioli, as stunning in color as in the mellowed, tart flavor, with fennel pollen, parmigiana-reggiano and herbs. Coffee Crusted Kurobuta Pork Tenderloin with goat cheese mashed potato, a citrus semi and roasted jalapeño apple sauce proves this hearty dish is just as appealing the summer as any time of the year. And so is the Adelaida Cab (2016) from Paso Robles that just always has to be on the wine list (by the glass and bottle). Guests like me are usually affectionately labeled “prima Dona” — I get stuck on items I .

Sweet & Spicy Spare Ribs at Upper West Restaurant

Coffee Crusted Kurobuta Pork Tenderloin with goat cheese mashed potato, a citrus semi and roasted jalapeño apple sauce at Upper West Restaurant

Partner Elad Benisti waited until after dinner to tell me how surprised he is that I didn’t even mention (I forgot!) my decade-old order of corn soup + burger!

Fun through the open window at Upper West Restaurant

Upper West Restaurant, 3321 W. Pico Blvd. (33^rd Street), Santa Monica, CA. (310) 586-1111, www.theupperwest.com.

Upper West’s Nick Shipp Shows off Northern Mexico Cuisine with Mezcal and Tequila

November 12, 2018 Comments Off

Nuestra Soledad, Angelisco Tequila, Total for Siempre and Agave de Cortes!

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Chef Nick Shipp goes all out to trail blaze dishes from his big, wild Texas imagination. And they are going to appear on his table only once inside the glassed-in front private room . “Too much work to do on a regular basis,” he laughs at every event. So at this point no one but the old regulars fit into the Upper West wine and spirits tastings that began with a small group when the restaurant started. The upcoming one is sold out almost before the announcement is made for it before the end of the meal of the one going on.

The Paloma Tequila Cocktail

This evening we started with our favorite of the evening, the Sweet Potato & Chorizo with a soft-poached egg and smoked maple syrup. It was paired with Angelisco Tequila Blanco. The dish makes a statement with its variety of unusual textures and Spanish-inspired Texas flavors.

Next on the Nick’s menu was the Texas Red Fish, or Red Drum, poached in coconut milk and embellished with burnt pineapple sala vera cruz, avocado puree and frito granola. The Texas Red Fish is a very special fish, explained Chef Nick. It turns out to be perhaps the most sought after game fish in the bays of the Gulf Coast. This a stealthy hunter found throughout the Texas Coastal Bend puts up an aggressive fight when hooked and is known for its excellent, substantial meat.The Texas Red fish was paired with Mezcal Nuestra Soledad.

Texas Red Fish poached in coconut milk

Broken Arrow Ranch Elk Enchilada incorporated elk chili, smoked tortilla sauce, green pico and cella cheese – all especially imported from Texas for the event. It was beautifully paired with Sotol Por Siempre.

Preparing the Broken Arrow Ranch Elk Enchilada

Broken Arrow Ranch Elk Enchilada filled with elk chili, smoked tortilla sauce, green pico and cella cheese

A vegetarian dish followed, revved up with Angelisco Tequila Reposado. Fajitas took on a new meaning with Chef Nick’s version that was comprised of Mexican crispy rice, refried beans, roasted peppers on a “whipped tortilla” that is classically made in the Mexican style .with a thin, flat pancake of cornmeal or flour, eaten hot or cold, typically with a savory filling. Nick added some of the fabulous Broken Arrow Ranch Elk to it. And it worked. The dish was paired with a clear-tasting Angelisco Tequila Reposado.

Fajitas with a whipped tortilla bed

Dessert was a light and spring-like Strawberry Margatira Flan with strawberry sorbet, salt and lime, paired with Agave de Cortez Mezcal Jovan.

Strawberry Margarita Flan

Five Top Hidden Menu-Crouching Vegetarian Meals In Paleo LA

May 15, 2018 Comments Off

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Vegetarian dishes find their way onto most mainstream restaurant most brunch menus. These international dishes that make up filling meals even for a paleo at these spiffy, popular places, well known for their massive bar scenes – and Fogo de Chao is, of course, known for its Brazilian beef.

Texture is key to a sated appetite. You can alway seat plate fulls of lettuce and still be “hungry.” I’ll always remember the mushroom burger I had at the Four Seasons (on Doheny in LA) that was a good as any beef burger — and I am a confirmed paleo.

Ysabel and Laurel Hardware in WeHo, Executive Chef Allison Trent creates both savory and fruit salads art pieces. A veggie salad, fresh berry dessert with assorted Hand-Rolled Pastries makes a light meal any time of the day. Arefreshing pinot grigio from their well-stocked bar to make it the perfect festive meal.

Australian Chef Allison Trent of Laurel Hardware and Ysabel Restaurants in WEHO.

Farmers Market Salad at Ysabel Restaurant

Ysabel, 945 N. Fairfax, Los Angeles, CA, please visit //www.ysabel.la/ or call 323-366-2940.

At Fogo de Chão the expansive, festive seasonal Market Table — about 12 by 18 feet –hold a multitude of vegetarian platters, including seasonal dishes, others back by popular demand. The Citrus Salad alone is so popular that the platter, made fresh each round, kept emptying. Ruby red grapefruit , oranges, tangerines and blood oranges are finished off with a drizzle of agave syrup and sprigs of fresh mint.

Citrus Salad at Fogo de Chão Beverly Hills

The Blackberry Arugula Salad features fresh blackberries and spring onions topped with goat cheese, crispy prosciutto and served with a blackberry balsamic vinaigrette.

Baskets of Brazilian yucca-flour cheese puffs, pão de queijo, put mini-popovers in mind with their paper-crisp exterior and spongy interior remain just as addictive.

For more menu information on the Fogo de Chão Beverly Hills, please visit //www.fogo.com.

Corn with a swirl of sumac oil and a black bean falafel floating on it, remains the star of the show at Upper West Restaurant. A steady parade of waiters march out of the upscale tavern’s kitchen with what has become a signature item. Diners not only rave about it as “straightforward and honest,” but won’t allow Chef Nick Shipp to take it off the menu. As Chef Nick tells the story, “When we opened we had a lot of requests for soup. Yellow corn is one of my favorites because of the texture, the mouth feel, the sweetness and the versatility of it.

Chef Nick laughs when asked about making homey vegetables so popular. “I approach things with a certain simplicity, and good flavor is key. And if it’s healthy, too, then that’s great. “

Upper West Restaurant, 3321 W. Pico Blvd. (33^rd Street), Santa Monica, CA. (310) 586-1111, www.theupperwest.com.

And speaking of stellar, unusual ways of using corn, Petite Taqueria ‘s Corn Pancakes with candied corn, mascarpone, agave piloncillo butter are more than a meal in themselves.

Petite Taqueria’s Corn Pancakes ($14), candied corn, mascarpone, agave, piloncillo butter

The Petite Taqueria Fruit Plate ($9) for a light appetite meal, a side or a side to share.

Petite Taqueria / Ainoko 755 N. La Cienega, West Hollywood, (310) 855.7223.

Hidden Vegetarian Treasure Maps on Ethnic Restaurant Menus

April 22, 2018 Comments Off

Hidden treasure maps of superb vegetarian and vegan small plates can combine into a filling meal at ethnic mainstream restaurants. Indian, Italian, Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and even regional American comes to mind. Often so surprising and universally appealing, the dishes often are equally enticing to carnivores. The idea is to order a variety of satisfying textures and tastes, starting from simple to complex. Note: when items are not specifically labeled vegetarian or vegan, make sure that there are no animal ingredients in them, such as chicken stock in vegetable soups.

Gluten Free Tortilla with onions & Cilantro, and a mint sauce at Masala Grill, Indian Fusion Kitchen.

Masala Grill Indian Fusion Kitchen has been featuring a primarily vegetarian menu since it opened about a year ago. Although many Indians are vegetarians and Indian restaurants usually feature many veggie options, Partner Sahil Chawla told us that as they learned that more and more of their diners prefer vegetarian food, their menu offered more unusual veggie versions, clearly marked (VG/V).

Below, as the perfect example is Masala Grill’s “flower” of Jackfruit (tropical fruit) Tacos that are Gluten Free Tortilla with onions & Cilantro, and a mint sauce (see above). Chawla explained that “jackfruit” has a consistency that is close to shredded meat. Masala Grill’s special sauce turns jackfruit biryani (rice) into a signature dish.

Masala Grills’ STEET FOOD CART section offers a vegan Bhelpuri, a savory snack of puffed rice, tomatoes, onions, spicy & tamarind chutney ($6)

Masala Grill, 5607 San Vicente Blvd, Los angeles, CA 90019 (323.954.7570) //www.masalagrillla.com.

Ciro Marino was always a cutting-edge trend-setter since his days as head captain at the legendary Villa Capri a half-century ago (LA’s first patio restaurant, “take-away” kitchen) was the first to offer vegetarian antipasti. A plate, along with a piece of crusty bread, can be an entire meal for (carnivore) me.

Marino anti-pasti – mushrooms replace meat in texture and a little bit in taste

The anti pasti (shown above), that became so popular it earned a showcase of its own at the door. Textures are varied in the marinated artichokes, mushrooms, peppers, cippolini onions, beets and lava beans.

Marino’s classic pizza and pasta options are also healthy – vegan bread is baked in ancient Roman style, with a similar recipe also used in the award-winning pizza crust. Featured in Los Angeles Magazine, gluten-free pasta choices, such as the wild mushroom fettuccine shown here please for vegetarians and vegan.

Marino Ristorante, 6001 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90038,(323) 466-881. Order online for pick up and delivery.

At award-winning Turquoise, Owner Hamid Fatemi has featured many vegetarian options “Pan-Mediterranean” since he opened a decade ago (though his duck confit sandwich is a carnivore’s dream). His fresh ingredients, depth of flavor and collages of color in all his dishes make the vegetarian options very appealing.

“Miracle Drink” blended with carrot juice, apple juice, adds a kick of ginger will win over any carnivore and is ready and waiting when customers sit down. Shreds of the fruit provide texture.

Vegetation Sampler tomato-basil and lentil soups are the perfect cuisine samples. A deft hand in the kitchen with herbs, spices and oils make the soups into a statement.

Tomato-basil and lentil homemade soup sampler

Turquoise “Cold Tapas” dips are $9 for one and two for $12.95. Beets arrive in Mast-O-Laboo, homemade organic yogurt mixed with succulently roasted beets, proving why beets are a star in Iranian cooking. Organic Hummus is filled with wickedly good flavor. Here the depth comes from pureed golden chickpeas, roasted red peppers, pomegranate molasses, roasted walnuts and organic sesame seeds. It proves the argument for featuring walnuts in savory dishes.

Crushed walnuts in the Olive-walnut Tapenade balance out chopped black and green olives texture. Tabouli made with cracked wheat , cucumber, tomato, scallion, parsley and olive oil is seasoned with lemon and distinguished by a touch of fresh mint. Baba Ganoush (perfectly roasted eggplant) is prepared her with a caramelized onion flavor rather than the more common garlic.

Unique dips and bread that can make up a lunch

In addition to the Classic Greek Salad, made special with the addition of Persian cucumbers, another vegetarian dish, “Grandma’s recipe” for Torshe Anbeh combines sweet and sour mango chutney marries tamarind, mango, dates with spices.

Turquoise Restaurant, Redondo Beach, 1735 S Catalina Ave, Redondo Beach CA 90277, (310.362.4478),(www.turquoise-restaurant.com).

Signature Corn Soup with Black Bean Falafel and a swirl of sumac oil remains a menu star at Upper West Restaurant, holding steady and overtaking the hamburger (dramatically served with a steak knife stabbing it on the plate) since the upstream tavern opened seven years ago. As Executive Chef Nick Shipp reveals, “the secret to why our guests love it is also their sheer curiosity of what’s in it. “ The answer is, a thoughtful lot.”

Other vegetarian dishes include Roasted Cauliflower with tahini sauce, pickled golden raisins and the special tang of preserved lemon. An entire category of veggie dishes includes vegan Fried Sweet Potato with cimichurri, Queso Panela and Wild Mushrooms with garlic, leeks, Farro and Fig. There is even a housemade ROASTED VEGGIE BURGER with charred pineapple relish, the spark of piquillo pepper and smoked tomato aioli on a toasted brioche bun.

Upper West, 3321 Pico Blvd., near Centinela., Santa Monica (310-586-1111).

And for right out in the open American regional knockout salads, Chef Allison Trent creates the most beautiful and healthy composed savory and fruit masterpieces at Isabel and Laurel Hardware.

Australian Chef Allison Trent of Laurel Hardware and Ysabel Restaurants in WEHO.

Irresistible salad masterpieces – – in a setting to match

Vegetarian tastes and textures, cocktails and pastries at Ysabel Restaurant brunch

Chef Allison Trent’s lush, elegant fruit plate.

Ysabel, 945 N. Fairfax, Los Angeles, CA, please visit //www.ysabel.la/ or call 323-366-2940.

Puzzle Israel Tours’ Native Global Cuisine Cookbook

March 28, 2016 Comments Off

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Chef Nir Margalith, co-founder/owner of Puzzle Israel Tours, is everything you would imagine a high energy Israeli would be. “Strapping” is the first word that comes to mind. And it stays there. Of course, being an Israeli, Nir is also a veteran of the army with boundless energy. So it’s no problem for him and childhood friend, Guy Marom, to head up an “army” of fellow countrymen who lead tourists on “behind-the-scenes visits to Israel that highlight ancient cultures and cuisines.” At the same time the chefs are de facto international ambassadors for contemporary Israeli cuisine. “Israel is blooming with cutting-edge chefs and local restaurants, updating a variety of cuisines considered exotic and not commonplace in Israel,” he reports enthusiastically.

nir margalith_2

Forest cooking workshop1_adi peretz (2)

The photo above and below are of a forest-cooking workshop.

Now regarded as culinary experts, Chefs Nir and Guy visit the US regularly, to spearhead Israeli cuisine cooking workshops and live seminars. This time around, Chef Nir was visiting the west coast to make an appearance at the Taste of Travel Theater and Trade show in Long Beach Convention Center Los Angeles. The idea is to showcase Israeli cuisine with demos of Israeli dishes. This time around it happened to be two classic eggplant rolls filled with minced meat and dates and gluten-free colorful tabbouleh salad. Recipes and photos are below.

Along with public appearances, the pair also seeks out places and people to host dinners – for 300-400 people at a time if necessary- as a Puzzle Israel Tours sample, while again showing off the “thriving cuisine of contemporary Israel.” Dynamic Deb Lust Zaluda, who lives in Chicago, was so impressed with the company she became the US Director Custom Private Tour. She joined the chef in LA to scope out sites.

We started the connections with Upper West Restaurant, Israeli partner, Elad Benisti (left). Chef Nir enthusiastically described contemporary Israeli cuisine, always a part of the tours, as “filled with our renowned organic production methods and innovative ways off using fresh, commonplace ingredients to prepare vitamin-rich and delectable dishes.” A bit disappointed to learn that many food writers are not aware of the cutting-edge scene, Nir is eager to spread the word.

2016-03-28 13.50.08 This is also why he and his childhood friend, Guy, created Puzzle Israel. The trips may be a replay of my own first trip to Israel, traveling with a French group I met on the plane. We blithely asked for recommendations from anyone we met to get a feel of street food and restaurants. For the out-of the-way and behind-the-scenes experiences I somehow found myself making my own Yemenite earrings near the Dead Sea with a jeweler in his shop after hours. I merely had to mention I wanted to experience all the kitchen and field jobs at a kibbutz for them to assign the rotations. Yes, I was lucky to be on the trip of a lifetime.

The team at Puzzle Israel Tours enables every visitor to capture this same kind of experience by inviting them in at the planning stage. The ingenious method is so simple. A local team of insider travel experts find out visitor’s interests and ably curate engaging, personalized outings whether it be for individuals, families, congregations, teen groups or organizations. A trip can be geared toward adventure, history, voluntourism, sports and culinary arts. A variety of ‘active trips’ with health benefits are also offered , such as one excursion featuring yoga activities appropriately called “holy fit.” The cost can be $4000 for a 10-day trip.

Kya_Bat_Mitzva_(353)

Nir’s culinary inspiration is his grandmother, who was born and raised in Libya before moving to Israel. He was so impressed that he started cooking when he was 12 years old. In typical blunt Israeli fashion, his shrug was enough of an answer when asking about his mom’s cooking. He leaned forward, “when Israeli’s finish their army service they travel and I was lucky enough to go to India, Thailand, Laos, New Zealand- the cheaper countries, where I could spend a lot of time and really get to know the people and the cuisines.”

“So that’s why I created such an inter-active group tour in Israel where you can eat with a Muslim or eat with an Ethiopian, and the food becomes a backdrop to the cultural experience,” he explained. There are also updated blogs and cookbooks, Yalla! Let’s Cook!, for example, to carry away the experience. 2016-03-28 13.49.54

One of the most fascinating trips focuses on the Bedouins in the Negev. Nir becomes excited talking about unincorporated areas, one specifically that has as its one permanent place, a bus station! It is a place where nomadic Bedouin families were invited to “settle the unsettled” with goat farms and vineyards. The eight to ten day trips that feature this startling place “feel very close to nature and the locals.”

Leah_Bat_Mitzva_(216)

“Some nuts are hard to crack but we usually are able to pull it off, “laughs Nir. He recalls one grandfather whose family brought him on a trip. He had never traveled outside of the United States, and was going to “have none of it” at age 65. “Five days later he was sitting and laughing with his children and grandchildren in a Syrian pool (built for officers stationed in Syria to relax), exclaiming out how he was doing things for the first time!”

With only word of mouth and online presence for the first time last year, testimonials on YouTube document the success of Puzzle Israel Tours. It backs a Chef Nir boast, delivered with a smile: “Israel has done an amazing job of becoming the cuisine to watch for culinary breakthroughs – especially the chefs who do different market to table concepts (see www.localfoodeater.com, TASTE OF ISRAEL post)

For more information on upcoming visits and information on Puzzle Israel Tours, please visit: www.puzzleisrael.com.

Recipes for Chef Nir’s “dishes in the wild” demo dishes:

mushrooms

Mushrooms Filled with Roasted Red Onions and Tahini

Ingredients:

15 mushrooms, insides spooned out (keep insides including stem for later)

3 red onions, julienne
1 C walnuts, finely chopped

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 400°F

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 T honey
1⁄4 C raw tahini

Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed

Sea salt, to taste Black pepper, to taste

2. Heat olive oil in frying pan over high heat. Add onions and garlic, stirring constantly. Add the mushrooms’ insides including stem and cook for 3 minutes or until onions are caramelized. Add honey and toss together for another 1-2 minutes

3. In a mixing bowl, combine the tahini walnuts and caramelized onions. Toss together

4. Using a spoon, place a spoonful of the onion mixture in each mushroom.

5. Place mushrooms onto sheet pan. Bake for another 10-15 minutes.

6. Serve warm

Eggplant Rolls Filled with Minced Meat and Dates

Ingredients:

1 lb. raw ground beef
5 Medjool dates, pitted, small dice 1⁄4 t sea salt
1⁄4 t black pepper
Fresh thyme

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 450°F.

3 eggplants, 1⁄4” slice, lengthwise 1⁄4 C extra-virgin olive oil
1 red onion, small dice
2 cloves garlic, minced

2. Line a sheet pan with sliced eggplants. Drizzle with olive oil, and bake for 10-12 minutes, until slightly golden brown.

3. Heat olive oil in a frying pan over high heat. Add onion and garlic, stirring constantly for 2-3 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and cook for another 15-20 minutes, until caramelized.

4. In a mixing bowl, combine the raw ground beef, sautéed onion and garlic, dates, salt, and pepper, and mix well.

5. Place a spoonful of the beef mixture onto each eggplant slice.

6. Roll the eggplant over the beef mixture and use a toothpick to secure the roll.

7. Place the rolls onto a lined sheet pan and bake for an additional 10-15 minutes.

8. Remove from the oven and garnish with fresh thyme.

9. Serve warm

Mid-East Falafal, Sumac Transforms All-American Corn Soup at Upper West

June 7, 2015 Comments Off

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Kale may be the current reigning king of home and restaurant menus, but corn remains the star of the show at Upper West Restaurant. A steady parade of waiters march out of the upscale tavern’s kitchen with what has become a signature item. Diners rave about it as “straightforward and honest,” but as Executive Chef Nick Shipp reveals, “the secret to why our guests love it is also their sheer curiosity of what’s in it. “ The answer is, a thoughtful lot.

Chef Nick tells the story, “When we opened we had a lot of requests for soup. Yellow corn is one of my favorites because of the texture, the mouth feel, the sweetness and the versatility of it. I’m from Texas, where corn is very prevalent, and where we have the southern influence but we also have a strong Native American influence, too. And what could be more Native American than corn?

The aromatic Corn Soup satisfies like a whole meal. It’s one that’s velvety smooth and goes down easy, and that’s because of the veggie stock base. Then there’s rich heavy cream and carrot for sweetness and depth. And then there’s white pepper, garlic, Tabasco and onion power to add another set of layers and make it pop. And this is not even the entire ingredient list.

And why the airy, fritter-like falafel? “Falafel” is code word for middle eastern on a menu, and here a swirl of sumac oil punctuates this. Nick: “Our menu is international, and this element with its garbanzo bean base is my homage to our Israeli partners. Folding black beans into it brings in the Texas theme, and more spices, such as yellow curry, cumin, coriander, smoked paprika, not only intermingle well with the oil but add a little mystery to it, and at the same time echoes the flavors of the soup.

Corn is also in demand in Chef Nick’s Whole Roasted Corn on the Cob with Cotija Cheese and a twist of Avocado Butter. And, as if to prove that vegetables rule, the second most popular dish on the menu is the earthy Caramelized Cauliflower with Sage, Apple & Parmesan – the chopped apple for texture and caramelization to make it creamy, and the seasonal Brussel Sprouts with Bacon & Roasted Peppers – a dish Nick had to “coax the flavor out of because Brussel Sprouts retain so much water.”

Chef Nick laughs when asked about making homey vegetables so popular. “I approach things with a certain simplicity, and good flavor is key. And if it’s healthy, too, then that’s great. “

Upper West Restaurant, 3321 W. Pico Blvd. (33^rd Street), Santa Monica, CA. (310) 586-1111, www.theupperwest.com.

Corn Soup with Black Bean Falafel & Sumac Oil

4 cups yellow corn (fresh or frozen)
2 cups veggie stock or chicken stock (I prefer chicken stock
1-cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons coriander
1-tablespoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon onion powder
1-teaspoon fresh garlic (chopped)
2 dashes Tabasco
Salt to taste
½ teaspoon white pepper
½ teaspoon chipotle powder
½ yellow onion (small dice)
Small carrot (peeled & chopped)
Stalk celery (chopped)

-In soup pot, on medium/low heat, sauté onion, celery & carrot until onion begins to sweat

-Add fresh garlic & cook for another 2 minutes. Stir constantly so the garlic doesn’t burn

-Add corn; continue cooking for another minute or so

-Add cumin, coriander onion powder, and white pepper chipotle powder.

-Cook for another 30 seconds, stirring constantly

-Add chicken or veggie stock (I prefer chicken stock)

-Cover, and let simmer for 5 minutes

-Remove soup mixture from heat & carefully blend until smooth

-Put blended soup back in a soup pot on low heat. Stir in cream & Tabasco

-Salt to taste

Black bean falafel

1 cup cooked black beans
½ cup cooked garbanzo beans
1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 ½ tablespoons kosher salt
1-teaspoon black pepper
¼ teaspoon chipotle powder
1-teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
¼ cup chopped onion

-Mash all ingredients well

-Form into small balls & fry in 350 degree oil until crispy on the outside

-Place on paper towel to cool slightly before putting in soup

Sumac oil

1-cup olive oil
4 tablespoons ground sumac
½ reason smoked paprika

1-tablespoon kosher salt

-Bland all ingredients well

-Strain though a fine mesh strainer

-Drizzle onto soup

Caramelized cauliflower

1 head cauliflower (flowerets only 1×1 pieces) or any size you wish
1-tablespoon fresh sage (thinly sliced)
¼ cup Parmesan cheese
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
½ cup green apples (small dice)
1 pat of unsalted butter
¼ cup of dry white wine like a sauvignon blank
½ teaspoon apple cider vinegar

-In a pot of slightly salted boiling water, cook the cauliflower for approximately 5 to 7 minutes, or until just tender

-Remove cauliflower from water and place immediately in an ice bath

-After a couple of minutes, remove cauliflower from the ice bath & dry as much as possible with a towel

-Toss cauliflower with 2 tablespoons of the extra virgin olive oil & 1 teaspoon of kosher salt & cracked black pepper to taste

-Placer cauliflower on a parchment paper lined baking dish & cook in a 475-degree oven until cauliflower has reached a golden brown color

-Heat remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a sauté pan until it begins to barely smoke.

-Carefully add vinegar, white wine, sage & apples to the pan

-Briefly cook until ingredients are well mixed

-Add cauliflower & Parmesan to the pan and mix quickly

-Remove and serve. Top with more Parmesan as desired

Upper West Restaurant