Chef Ricardo Diaz’ genius transforms the dining scene in Whittier
(Gerry Furth-Sides) Chef Ricardo Diaz is fittingly making Mexican Sopa de Fideo into a star at his stylish, earthy cantina in the tree-lined Uptown Whittier District. The story honors Mexican Pio Pico, who settled the very land it sits on in the first street in the town well known as the All-American home of Richard Nixon. www.coloniagroupinc.com
The imposing mural of Pio Pico that lines the wall at Colonia Publica in Whittier
Pico Pio in a Whittier Museum exhibit
At Colonia Publica, the casual high tables up front are perfect for people-watching along the tree-lined Greenleaf street in Uptown Whittier District. A line of tables marches to the back alongside a wall hiding the kitchen.
The smart gastro-cantina in spiffy Whittier uptown district
The simple and nourishing combination of tomato-based broth, onions, and toasted vermicelli noodles are offered in many of its variations, chosen by each guest. Sopa de Fideo or “soup of noodles” is a stock-based and very much a part of Mexican cuisine although until now it has not been as commonly known as menudo. Noodles, typically slender ones such as vermicelli or angel hair, are broken up or cut to ensure that the flavors flow threw each one. Adding to the layer of flavors, the noodles are browned separately before being combined with the rest of the soup ingredients.
Chef Diaz describes Sopa de Fideo part of the simple, basic home cooking in all parts of Mexico and with generational families here in the United States. The rich 14-hour simmered broth made with pork backbone, organic free range chicken, and locally sourced vegetables, It is what the poorest eat and what the nannies in rich families serve the children. It fills after school tummies, lunch-time workers and late escapades into the kitchen.”
A little fideos order form with a fun golf pencil arrives at the table next to a regular menu, for you to pick from the 20 customizable items you would like, ranging from tortilla chips to sliced avocado and lemongrass. They include Pollo/Epazote scented Chicken Breast; Frijoles Negros/Black Beans; Housemade Pork Chorizo; Queso Fresco/Farmers Cheese; Monterey Jack Cheese; Pico de Gallo/Onion, Tomato & Cilantro Salsa and Elote Asado/Grilled Corn Kernels. On the more unusual side are Camaron al Ajo/Garlic Shrimp; Nopales/Blanched Cactus and Chicarron/Pork Cracklings.
Elijah serves up an order of fideo
Sopa de Fideo has a history as a part of the cuisines of Mexico, Tex-Mex cuisine, and the Philippine province of Cavite. It has been suggested that the dish may have originated in Spain. Chef Diaz prefers the Mexican origin. “One of the things I set out to do with my restaurants was introduced people to the food Mexicans really eat,” Diaz says. “Carne asada, tripa – that’s all weekend barbecue food that you do every once in a while. Fideos come from the heart.”
Colonia Publica offers full-service and toward Chef Diaz’s pub focus, Colonia Publica’s menu includes smaller plates ranging from Baja Shrimp Burrito with beer battered shrimp, red cabbage, chipotle beans, spicy remoulade and cilantro ($7.50) to the popular American favorite, Burger Daddy with two sirloin patties, balsamic bacon onions, gruyere cheese, mustard aioli and fries ($12)
The lineup of new-wave micheladas made with IPA, oatmeal stouts or aguachile. The michelada is one of the many popular Mexican beer cocktails. It contains ingredients perfect for the hot Whittier summer of Mexican Cerveza prepared beer, lime juice, and assorted sauces, spices, and peppers, and has the options of Maggi sauce (a soy-like sauce that with MSG), Worcestershire sauce, chamoy powder, serrano peppers, Camaronazo, Clamato or citrus slices. The parts of the name filled with affection are key to understanding it. Mi or ‘mine’; Chela, slang for ‘beer’ and ADA from helada or‘cold’).
Old favorite, Modelo, serves as the michelada menu base at Colonia Publica, including the classic michelada Roja (with Clamato), a jalepeño aguachile michelada, a chamoy michelada and the tamarindo michelada with agave wine and cayenne pepper.
“For years people were trying to match wines with Mexican food, but I always thought it was a stretch,” to quote Diaz. “Cerveza always went with Mexican food – it’s part of the national diet almost.”
Colonia Publica, 6717 Greenleaf Ave., Whittier; (562) 693-2621. is open six days a week. For hours and more details, please see: www.coloniagroupinc.com
Gerry Furth-Sides 
Barbara Hansen 
Chef-owner Alain Cohen 
Roberta Deen 
Jose Martinez 
Nivedita Basu 