The Brunch Table is Now Set at Cleo Restaurant!

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Brunch is now being served at Cleo on Third Street. And Chef Danny Elmaleh’s menu boasts all the energy, fun and chic design of the popular walking street. There is always something going on.  The morning we went, light and refreshing Ketel One Botanicals were being featured.  And so was crystal clear-Badoit water.

Inventive, masterful Japanese-Moroccan star Chef Danny Elmaleh makes brilliant menus appear effortless.  Just as impressive, the kitchen prepares them as intended on a consistent basis.   Managers Theodora and Barbie round out the terrific staff.  This is why CLEO remains our choice for any meal.

Cleo suggests beginning brunch with the trio of mezze, small plates, to share at table.   The dishes reflect Chef Elmaleh’s middle eastern and Asian culinary background, with his touch of  bold flavors and using a refined technique.  They include Hummus, Babaganoush and Lebaneh, served with a piping hot Laffa Taboon bread right out of a special separate oven.

Texture makes the difference in Chef Elmaleh’s masabacha version of hummus.  Considered to the most authentic, the masabacha version is chunkier and more rustic than the usual creamier hummus one.   The kitchen leaves the chickpeas whole instead of grinding them to a paste.  Cumin, lemon juice, parsley, minced garlic and tahini are then mixed into the paste.

Described as having the taste and texture somewhere between Indian naan and pita bread, but with a better flavor and chew, Laffa Taboon bread or Lafah/Lafa is a Middle Eastern flatbread baked in a grilling oven called a Taboon.

 

The Watermelon and Feta Salad small plate is also filled with layers of flavor and substance.   Mint, feta cheese and both shaved cucumber and radishes add a festive element and holiday colors.

Main dishes reflect the international background of the chef.  Red Shakshouka features spiced tomato sauce, longanisa sausage made in house, egg, feta and cilantro.  The “spiced” tomato sauce remains refined and filled with flavor and heat, rather than tasting assaultive and peppery.

Chef Elmaleh’s spin on Eggs Benedict is elevating.  The whimsical Avocado Toast Benedict is right in synch with the current madness for avocado toast.  Smoked Salmon Benedict substitutes smoked salmon for Canadian bacon with the same saltiness.  A crispy potato cake adds texture (along with a little surprise) and replaces the usual English Muffin.  Spinach and hollandaise completes the dish.

The food so refined and the desserts so week-end holiday extraordinary  that we we had no problem enjoying both.  And they are international.  A “donut tree” reminiscent of a pastry ball croquenbouche features donuts more like Austro-Hungarian “fonk” than the the French cream puff version.  They are light, airy and delicious.  Madelaines fulfill the French component.  A moist, light molten chocolate cake is decidedly American.   Jellied candies, pate de fruit,  and blackberries cover an angelic panna cota are joined by a mini chocolate cake with soft dark chocolate center.   The middle eastern Turkish baklava is the least satisfying.  While not excessively sweet it is also so dense it is hard.

The chef’s food is as startling as ever for being fulfilling without being too filling.  And a walk down Third Street is just outside.

(www.sbe.com) Cleo Third Street, 8384 W. 3rd Street, Los Angeles, CA  90048, (323) 579-1600. Cleo,  L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, 424-888-7818.