The Perfect Meal at New CHAYA Modern Izakaya

(Gerry Furth-Sides) When Chaya Venice recently changed its name to New CHAYA Modern Izakaya we knew it meant a small plate bar drinking.   So we expected the new Handcrafted Cocktail Program, Wine, Sake, Premium Spirit and Japanese Whisky List in the transition. What surprised us were the inspired brightness, dishes by the evolved menu by chefs under the direction of Executive Chef, Yukon Kajimo.

Japanese-import Izakayas became popular in the United States only a few years ago More than that, an “Izakaya” defines a friendly drinking place hangout or lively gastropub for unwinding, relaxing and sharing stories, for serving food and drink makes the owner proud. It is certainly the case here.

The little-dish and drink duo concept works perfectly for the all-day Happy hour at CHAYA.  It also worked to make up our unusual four-course fish and seafood meal.  Bravo to Corporate Executive Chef Yukou Kajino and to Chef Kojima’s team: Jon Inoue, Katsuhuki Wako, Antonio Aguilar, and Oscar Cuaya.

Spicy Grilled Octopus with garlic chili oil, spicy green papaya turns into a circle of clean, bright, fresh flavors and textures.  The octopus was the most tender we had ever eaten.

The whole fish becomes the star of the table, served a couple of times a week when extraordinary fish is available.  Bream is a stellar example.  Unrivaled Mediterranean gilt-head Bream is considered the tastiest. The chefs love to work with this fish for its succulent, white flesh that is ideal for grilling, baking or frying whole.

The whole fish is split horizontally with one half grilled and served with daikon, ponzu and chimichurri sauces to bring out a different element of flavor with each one.  Sushi and sashimi are prepared out of the other half.

The new element to the whole fish is its binchotan grilling, according to long-time manager, Joseph.  “Binchotan” translates into “mastering the heat,” the small grill lends a char and a taste of fire to the fish without the smoke. White Binchotan Charcoal is a type of Activated Charcoal, nearly 100% carbon so it is smokeless,  that has been traditionally made for over 300 years by charcoal makers in the Kishu province of Wakayama in Japan.

Uni Spaghetti is a tangle of crispy, creamy and firm textures and an array of sea and land tastes.

Cocktails are contemporary and international.  The Coconut Grove below is comprised of Santa Teresa 1796 Rum, Coco Lopez, Cointrau and Lime.  Sake comes in a small or large carafe.  Even the most modestly priced can be paired well with most dishes.

Our Junmai Sake made by a company founded in 1865 (!) has a clear taste that pairs wonderfully with almost any dish since it is considered a pure grade.  It is brewed in traditional Yamahai-jikomi fashion manner using only Miyama Nishiki rice, soft water, yeasts in the Akita Seishu brewery for generations and koji.  The ingredients and the inordinately long two-month minimum fermentation period brings out brings out beautiful, earthy notes and a light, smooth, creamy texture to the drink.

Just as I was writing that show business people are always so happy because when you meet them they have finished their projects weeks before and chefs who come out of the kitchen are exhausted, the universe disproves me with two-second generation restaurants whose chefs are nothing short of exuberant.  And, unlike most restaurants today, when you phone CHAYA VENICE, someone picks up the phone within three rings — a live person who will answer questions or get someone who can do so.  Another nod to Chef Kojima’s team: Yukon Kajimo.  Jon Inoue, Katsuhuki Wako, Antion Aguilar, and Oscar Cuaya.

CHAYA Modern Izakaya serves Dinner Sunday- Thursday,5:30 pm to 10:00 pm, and Friday- Saturday from 5:30 pm to 11:30 pm. For more information or to make reservations, please visit www.TheCHAYA.com or call CHAYA Modern Izakaya directly at 310.396.1179.