Masterpiece Mezze Theatre at Jordanian OASIS MEDITERRANEAN Restaurant

(Gerry Furth-Sides)  “Oasis” is defined as a fertile spot in a desert where water is found,” and it fits Oasis (Mediterranean) Restaurant on a corner of La Cienega so unremarkable in the flow of traffic you can easily drive right by this culinary treasure.

This does not bother affable chef-owner, Ahmad Abulfeilat, whose superb food has already drawn a following for his elaborate spreads that qualify as food theatre.  Abulfeilat, who resembles a young Topol both in looks and nature, accurately uses the description, “Mediterranean” here for his landlocked Jordanian eatery because the classic dishes on his menu are well known throughout the area called, “Bilad al-Sham,” which includes Syria, Lebanon, Jordan, and Palestine.

Chef Ahmad was born and raised in Karak, Jordan, considered the most progressive country in the region.  It is, he reported to us with a smile,” a nation “where every nationality gets along, ” Son Hanny runs the front of the house running smoothly, and keeps the business in the family.

OASiS food is as solid and approachable as Chef Abufeilat The elegant food is as pampered in the kitchen as in his own home, with his personal interpretation of mother’s classic recipes.  The slow-cooked method earns the label, Twagen, in the middle east.  The result is deeply layered flavors, largely influenced by bay leaves and cardamom flavors.

Abulfeilat welcomes guests with classic  Arabic hospitality, considered the best in the world.  White tablecloths and sun-colored napkins cover tables that easily accommodate different size groups in a spiffy open space. Mezze dishes can fill a banquet table, as they do here.

They may fall into the category of “Mediterranean,” but Chef Abulfeilat offers his spin on them.   Fava beans are added to his Jordanian garbanzo bean hummus, for example.  Chef Abulfeilat’s own take on it – three days in the making because he makes his own ghee ingredient – is to top it with beef and/or pine nuts dipped in ghee.  The different variations are below.

Sesame seeds coating the rich, moist Falafel, are one of the chef’s own touches.  A little pitcher holds tahini sauce for dipping.

Pastries include spiraled cheese rolls filled with feta and cream cheese and spinach pies that are tangy with sumac and lemon juice. They are just as flaky on the outside and dense with velvety cheese,  as the picture looks.

Half-moon-shaped turnovers pinched at the edges, samboosa are filled with beef, lamb and pine nuts.  They are fried in middle-eastern style. The kitchen can also bake them on request, representative of Chef Abulfeilat adjusting his food for the lighter California palate.

Rich Babaganoush tastes of the fire-roasting that the eggplant starts out with on the stove.

Spinach pies, similar to Greek spanakopita are a delight even as a leftover for breakfast the next day.  The flakiness of the shell just melts into the spinach with each bite.

 Oasis Mediterranean Cuisine, 1663 S. La Cienega Blvd., Pico-Robertson; (310) 276-2747, gooasisla.com. Mon.-Wed., 11 AM-9 PM.; Thu.-Sat., 11 AM- 10 PM.