kosher charcuterie

(Gerry Furth-Sides, photos of Angel’s Salumi & Truffles courtesy of the company) Even as someone who has never met a pork dish I haven’t loved – Pascal J-F Besset is in a separate heavenly league with his Angel’s Salumi & Truffles LLC, They are “Divinely made in Los Angeles.”  Charcuterie is the term used for prepared meat products such as cured salami, terrines, prosciutto, and foie gras.  For those who do not pork, master chef Alain Cohen at Harissa Restaurant has recently mastered the art of kosher charcuterie using only cured beef and fish.

Chef Besset, good-natured master (giddily) has gilded the lily at food events for years with his dazzling embarrassment of rich tastes. Passionate and patient, he sliced off 2500 tastes of his sumptuous salumis and meats at one French festival, with daughter Kassandra either helping him or standing simply in awe. Look for the little angel trademark product at fine markets and on his online site.  You may even be eating them without knowing it; top chefs such as Michel Richard have ordered the entire line at a time for their restaurants.

Besset learned the art of Charcuterie in the South of France, Monte-Carlo, Corsica, and Paris from the best. He lists the names of these masters with pride: Bernard Broust and Mr. Langlois M.O.F in Charcuterie at Gaston Lenotre School, “and, “he smiles, “my father’s longtime friend, Cesar Merlino, Chef and Maitre Charcutier in the French Alps, who knew how to share his passion.”

The passionate, innately talented Chef Pascal built his reputation over many years. Following intensive classical training and experience, he worked in the kitchens of no less than six 5-Star Hotels, of which two properties classified top 10 in the World.

Handcrafted charcuterie is influenced by traditional French and Mediterranean styles. Products include cured Salumi (Venison & Berkshire, Wild Boar, White Truffle, Black Truffle, Duck), uncured Salumi (Soppressata Piccante, Nostrano, Toscano, Rosette, Bison, Chorizo), Lonzino, Lomo, and Prosciutto (Wild Boar, Duck).

All animals are raised and processed humanely.  Angel’s Salumi & Truffles LLC, game meats are free range, cage free or wild.  They are certified antibiotic free, steroid free and free of growth hormones. The pork products are made strictly with purebred Berkshire pork.  Salumi has a 12 months shelf life when refrigerated.

The most classic of the dry-cured French Sausage is his Natural French Country style Salami made with the finest Berkshire Pork, Rosette de Lyon. All natural, with a sweet mild flavor, a little bit of garlic and white wine, is beautiful serves up with a good Burgundy, a great Baguette, and some cornichons.

Red Wine, Armagnac, and Spices add contrasting layers of saltiness to the tender, sweet Black Truffle Salami (5% Black Winter Truffle). Besset adds dry-cured Chorizo for spiciness to the 100% Berkshire pork meat to the tender version, flavorful Natural Dry-Cured Salami. Besset describes his Natural Soppressata Piccante as a “typical” spicy Italian sausage.  Typical for him!  Dry cured fermented, with a little fennel, red wine, grappa and hot spices, it is then aged for about 3 months.  It is so airy it pairs perfectly with a light Pinot Grigio.

“House classical” Natural Salami Nostrano incorporates flavors from the mild peppery and wine flavors of Northern Italy, hearty and coarsely ground. Match it with melon and figs for a unique Indian summer dish or in a crusty bread sandwich with Nostrano, greens and fig marmalade. This can easily be converted to a gorgeous, interesting salad simply by adding sun-dried tomatoes and/or marinated artichokes (juice from either adds to a dressing), croutons, plus blanched haricot vert, chilled.

The richer Frency style Duck Salami, blends certified 100%, cage-free duck meat blends Red Wine, and Black Peppercorns.  Venison and Berkshire Salami’s exotic taste comes from the seasoning of red wine, Juniper Berries and Black Peppercorn, perfect with a rich red wine.

Chef Besset speaks with pride about this mission to produce handcrafted and cured authentic, gourmet European Salumi and fine meats. Besset sources only the finest ingredients for his signature line of Salumi. He refines each recipe and oversees the production in small batches to ensure quality and consistency. The self-effacing chef remains proud of  introducing 100% purebred Berkshire to the product in Los Angeles country, reminding us, “it is the old and traditional way to raise hogs because it produces an outstanding aromatic flavor in the quality salumi.” Add to that it never tastes “fatty” or heavy or salty.  That’s why you are never thirsty after eating it.

Harissa Charcuterie Board (serves 2-4)

At the newly renamed Harissa Restaurant, Chef Alain prepared his own meats in a brand new smoker in the back of the restaurant.  This is kosher meat and is a revelation to anyone who follows the kosher rules and does not eat pork products.

Italian food expert Darien Morea wrote, “The Homemade Charcuterie Board emulating Italian styles of Prosciutto and Genoa Salami, uses Kosher beef instead – a process that takes the restaurant at least 4-5 months for each iteration; Chicken Liver pate’ in the French style and Chicken Liver Pate’ with Cognac, which I particularly liked; Cornichon pickles and Home-marinated Tunisian green and black olives with Lemon and Herbs.”

Chef Alain Cohen

Harissa Restaurant Location: 8914 W. Pico Blvd. (1 block west of Robertson), Los Angeles, California 90035, Telephone: (310) 858-1920, Hours of Operation:Sun-Thurs 11:30 – 9:30 p.m., Fri 9 a.m.-4 p.m., Catering Off-site and take-away catering for 4 to 4,000: 1410 S. Livonia Avenue (at Pico), Los Angeles, CA 90035, Telephone: (310) 858-3123

Airline, vacation, special occasion, institution; fine dining at take-out prices.  Street parking.