spinach pies

How to Celebrate Ramadan in All Its Parts

Comments Off on How to Celebrate Ramadan in All Its Parts
Ramadan treats at Forn Al Hara: Maneen flatbreads, salad and pastries

(Gerry Furth-Sides) We were so fortunate to visit Forn Al Hara and Le Mirage bakeries in “Little Arabia” leading up to the first of two month-long Ramadan holiday celebrations, Eid al-Fitr.  The second arrives in about two months, Eid al-Adhar. The joyous bakes made specially for the holy days, but the spirit of it as well. It is a time for forgiveness and reflection, rejoicing and blessings.  What’s not to celebrate for everyone, and to do this all year.

First up:  Forn Al Hara. Trays of miniature flaky filo dough pastries rolled into what look like fields of edible flowers and dense, moist pastries shaped in flat slabs or mounds appear to undulate across the glass counters in the fading sunlight. It is the first thing you see when you walk in the door even if it is across the room. 

Neatly laid stacks of plastic boxes filled with a variety of beautiful treats nearly take your breath away.  What a special time in Little Arabia during Ramadan! Our favorite special cookie, Ma’amoul, is a tradition at Eid al-Fitr.

Forn Al Hara‘s miniature flaky filo dough pastries rolled into what look like fields of edible flowers

Not a minute’s lull between lively customers coming for the best, best savory and sweet dishes or the friendly staff preparing them, fast, fast, fast to be ready for Iftar (break-the-fast dinner). 

Customers can arrive to survey the treats and put in an order and then come back for their full meals; call in on the phone, or dine-in to linger and eat. Each order takes about 30 minutes.

Last year we were so concerned that sweetest, talented, Forn Al Hara owner-chef, Muhammad Alam was so tired from working 12 hour shifts.  Of course, this lovely man still tried to send us home with a gift box of traditional Maamoul and ka’ak. 

Forn Al Hara owner-chef, Muhammad Alam and a boxed treasure of Ramdan bakes

This time his nephew, Nader, capably manned the bustling post this day and “took good care of us,” as promised. A table set up turned out to be a plate and take out box! Finger food defined!)

Nader, nephew of Forn Al Hara owner-chef, Muhammad Alam

A young customer who was in line waiting was happy to offer suggestions when we asked about what he like to eat. We knew we were looking for a Maheesh (flatbread). He immediately suggested his favorite of his with ground beef (my new favorite) and a cheese favorite of his children.

We were also advised to order the little closed spinach pies, a cousin of Greek spanakopita. These turned out to be pillowy and tasty, also redolent with the taste of pomegranate molasses. 

We could not decide what holiday pastries and cookies to take away and so seemed to take all as happily explained by another customer.  Nader explained each one when I called during lunchtime today!

My confirmed new all-time holiday favorite is pistachio paste Ma’amoul, light, buttery and not too sweet. It is the bigger cake, bottom row. I am grateful enough for this alone.

Ramadan is not complete without Ma’amoul. These sweet cookies are not only popular  in Lebanon, but in Jordan, Palestine, and Syria too. These crumbly and buttery cookie mounds are as dense as a cake.  They are made with rose water can have a filling of dates, walnuts or pistachios, and sometimes almonds.  They are cousins to my absolute favorite Polverones, the Mexican Wedding Cookie.

Forn Al Hara’s Ma’amoul with pistachios in bottom row, with walnuts at top left, next to anise cookies

Forn Al Hara, 512 S. Brookhurst St, Anaheim,CA 92804, 714.758.3777, Phone: (714) 758-3777.

Menu and details: Fornalhara.com

This (Le) Mirage is a real treasure for those who know that a bouza ice cream machine is in their back room.  We knew.  It was our second visit. 

Maher Nakhal and his booze at Le Mirage

In the hunt for Bouza: (1) don’t be fooled by look-alike, Melissa’s flowery cabbage.   (2) ASK for Syrian Bouza, or sticky ice cream. The shop also sells Italian gelato and dazzling arrays of pastries.(3) Don’t think the shelf at the door only holds business cards- it’s the original ice cream maker! Weighs a ton, and had to be replaced with another that has USA-friendly electrical system. See Maher Nakhal and the machine out back from the Le Mirage Facebook.

For more reading, please see //localfoodeater.com/shoppers-guide-to-aneaheims-magical-little-arabia/

Le Mirage, Maher Nakhal bouza, 100 S Brookhurst St, Anaheim, CA  92804, 714-491-3855.

lemiragepastry.com

Masterpiece Mezze Theatre at Jordanian OASIS MEDITERRANEAN Restaurant

Comments Off on Masterpiece Mezze Theatre at Jordanian OASIS MEDITERRANEAN Restaurant

Son Hanny runs the front of the house at OASIS MEDITERRANEAN Restaurant

(Gerry Furth-Sides)  “Oasis” is defined as a fertile spot in a desert where water is found,” and it fits Oasis (Mediterranean) Restaurant on a corner of La Cienega so unremarkable in the flow of traffic you can easily drive right by this culinary treasure.

This does not bother affable chef-owner, Ahmad Abulfeilat, whose superb food has already drawn a following for his elaborate spreads that qualify as food theatre.  Abulfeilat, who resembles a young Topol both in looks and nature, accurately uses the description, “Mediterranean” here for his landlocked Jordanian eatery because the classic dishes on his menu are well known throughout the area called, “Bilad al-Sham,” which includes Syria, Lebanon, Jordan, and Palestine.

olives pickles

Mezzo tasting of the sea brine: olives and pickles

Chef Ahmad was born and raised in Karak, Jordan, considered the most progressive country in the region.  It is, he reported to us with a smile,” a nation “where every nationality gets along, ” Son Hanny runs the front of the house running smoothly, and keeps the business in the family.

The Abufeilat family

OASiS food is as solid and approachable as Chef Abufeilat The elegant food is as pampered in the kitchen as in his own home, with his personal interpretation of mother’s classic recipes.  The slow-cooked method earns the label, Twagenin the middle east.  The result is deeply layered flavors, largely influenced by bay leaves and cardamom flavors.

Abulfeilat welcomes guests with classic  Arabic hospitality, considered the best in the world.  White tablecloths and sun-colored napkins cover tables that easily accommodate different size groups in a spiffy open space. Mezze dishes can fill a banquet table, as they do here.

They may fall into the category of “Mediterranean,” but Chef Abulfeilat offers his spin on them.   Fava beans are added to his Jordanian garbanzo bean hummus, for example.  Chef Abulfeilat’s own take on it – three days in the making because he makes his own ghee ingredient – is to top it with beef and/or pine nuts dipped in ghee.  The different variations are below.

Jordanian garbanzo bean hummus

Sesame seeds coating the rich, moist Falafel, are one of the chef’s own touches.  A little pitcher holds tahini sauce for dipping.

Falafel

Pastries include spiraled cheese rolls filled with feta and cream cheese and spinach pies that are tangy with sumac and lemon juice. They are just as flaky on the outside and dense with velvety cheese,  as the picture looks.

cheese rolls

cheese rolls

Half-moon-shaped turnovers pinched at the edges, samboosa are filled with beef, lamb and pine nuts.  They are fried in middle-eastern style. The kitchen can also bake them on request, representative of Chef Abulfeilat adjusting his food for the lighter California palate.

samboosa

Rich Babaganoush tastes of the fire-roasting that the eggplant starts out with on the stove.

Babaganoush

Spinach pies, similar to Greek spanakopita are a delight even as a leftover for breakfast the next day.  The flakiness of the shell just melts into the spinach with each bite.

Spinach pies

Spinach pies Oasis Mediterranean Cuisine, 1663 S. La Cienega Blvd., Pico-Robertson; (310) 276-2747, gooasisla.com. Mon.-Wed., 11 AM-9 PM.; Thu.-Sat., 11 AM- 10 PM.