New Spirited French Dining at Montrésor, Ghosts and All

(Gerry Furth-Sides) The story here is that French dining is back.  And, it is back in style.  It’s a California-inspired and staffed, next generation of the innovative casual bistro style pioneered by Le St. Germain’s in the 1980’s (see below).

This generation adds performance-kitchen informality and the infusion of flavors into ingredients and coulis, evolving from the initial Nouveau French lighter, culinary style (hold the heavy sauces), and service which often held on to white tablecloth formality.  It truly is a “bistro” in the sense that the owners and the chef are happily on premise.  Will Montrésor become a regular gathering place for the rich and (super) famous as the innovative masters became? We wish it so.

The feeling of the spiffy, yet whimsical, French lady greeting guests at the door (see below) carries throughout the restaurant.  Ghosts of a time past cast a warm glow in the lush vintage dining rooms backed by a glassed-in, bustling performance kitchen.  Acclaimed  Executive Chef Paul Shoemaker’s California-inspired French menu of updated traditional French classics with farm-fresh local ingredients complements the setting created by Montrésor’s inspired designer-partner, Annie Booth Luly.

It takes a while pick our perfect table because it’s as much fun to look at Annie’s intricate designs as it is to sit in them!  The huge vintage mirror below, for example, was rescued from a brothel. (We decided it was probably on the ceiling.)

Look carefully.  Annie pointed out that her marvelous, classic “tin ceiling” high overhead is really molded foam to avoid the noise always associated with it.  The officially mandated “sneeze guard” at the kitchen window is actually a gorgeous antique beveled glass window that Annie “picked up” in the desert, “just 120 miles away.”

Chef Shoemaker’s innovative take on French cuisine is a lighthearted one. The proof is in his tanned, chiseled face and the little animal caps he picked for the kitchen crew.  This is not your Chanel-era dining, although she would have loved it. For more details please see:

Montrésor, Studio City’s New French Bistro with a Royal Pedigree

Leisurely dining is one of the rare old-school elements, starting with an old-fashioned, much-appreciated bread basket arriving with a short but full menu. Sweet little gougère puffs arrive with crusty French bread with a perfect tooth.

Even the butter shows care, carved into quenelles, just soft enough to spread.  The combination proved to be irresistible.

The Montrésor eclectic, if limited, the wine list is curated to pair with Chef Shoemaker’s menu.  Bottles start at $50.  The same wines practically priced by the glass.  Josh, our knowledgeable server, was not only out to please with his helpful suggestions but carefully answered all of our questions.

Each wine is offered by the glass. French wines predominate with additional California wines and a selection of American beers in the spirit of accommodating the local clientele.

And then the food!  Fresh classic Crab Cake was ringed by authentic remoulade, brightened with a sunshiny California Meyer lemon gastrique and “frisée on top”   It was our favorite bite.

Fish, pasta, chicken, duck and beef are on an evolving seasonal menu.  To view the listings, please see:  www.Montresor.LA

Short Rib (“served mid-rare”) prepared with American wagyu, potato fondant and tomato confit does not have the expected almost “falling off the bone” shredded consistency. Here it is more like a compact meatloaf ($40).  Chef Paul’s new style infuses flavor into ingredients or coulis rather than combining them into sauces.

This evening’s stacked Turbot ($38) was dressed up with ramps, sweet garlic and black trumpet mushrooms.

Black Bass with porcini ragu, cherry tomato, bloomsdale spinach ($38) is more for lovers of fish with skin.

Desserts are all made in-house, and, of course, include Profiteroles, all dressed up with almond toffee brittle, vanilla ice cream and a chocolate sauce drizzle. “Better than any Parisian restaurant pastry chef’s I’ve had,” said our experienced French guest!   We were divided on the very crispy pistachio biscotti (I loved it) that complemented a dense Créme Brûlée.

Pictures and words only start to describe the exuberant feeling all through the evening.  Guests came to greet owners Lisa and Annie, and Chef Paul, as though they were old friends, and the new restaurant is jammed almost every night of the week.

An eager service staff isn’t quite in rhythm, bringing two or no servers at a time.  With Lisa and Annie, the two powerhouse owners overlooking the room at all times, your every need is still met – and more.  

We laughed as we left, noticing the weight holding down the wonderful flower-head lady.  A sign that tells us that there is a lasting practical bent at the restaurant’s base?

We have such happy memories of lingering meals at pioneer, Le St. Germain  (current home of Providence and now Le Vallauris, Palm Springs) that spawned a slew of French bistros, starting with Le Chardonnay and still-popular Le Petit Bistro.  Here is why:

French Cuisine and Hospitality Shine at Historic Le Vallauris

Montrésor, 11266 Ventura Boulevard, Studio City, CA 91604, T: 818.760.7081.

Montrésor is open Tuesday through Sunday from 5:30 pm to 10:30 pm. For more information aboutMontrésor, please visit www.Montresor.LA or call Montrésor directly.