Chicken Troopers and How Korean Fried Chicken Became Crazy Popular

(Gerry Furth-Sides) What makes Chicken Troopers head and shoulders above the rest: the crispest, most perfectly seasoned (heat not spiky pepper) fried chicken meticulously made by Chef-owner Sean An, executive chef formerly of Slow Fish and other fine dining restaurants in the area. He also happened to cook for officers in the Korean army, the origin of the ingredients for spam dishes and the idea for such American favorites as fried chicken.  

The sauces on the chicken include Traditional Korean Sweet and Spicy; a Special (mouth-watering) Sweet and Spicy with Fresh White Onion & Cilantro and a Spicy BBQ.   Chicken pieces are cut small to get more crunch with each piece. The coleslaw is the best anywhere. Also a must-try is the Army Base Stew (Budae Jjigae) and the Spicy Korean Chicken Stew.

The infamous Spam (also a favorite in Hawaii since World War II’s American influence), shows up on the Chicken Trooper menu in the Americanized Korean army stew., Budae Jjigae ($11) chicken. The beef based broth stew holds beans, franks, Korean black pig sausage, spam, onion, pork bear, corn, kimchi, ramen noodles.  Cheese can be added ($1.50). Sean’s beef broth is sublime, and I remember first having it 15 years ago at e3rd Steakhouse before an event!

There is also a Spicy Korean chicken stew (Dakbokeumtang) ($12) Drumsticks in a spicy red sauce along with potatoes, carrots, onions.  Served with rice.  The kimchi fried rice, a kimchi chicken sandwich are other popular

Fried chicken has been huge in South Korea for a decade. There are about 50,000 fried chicken restaurants throughout the country, dozens in one neighborhood that laws had to be written to regulate the number opening on one block. Most are small franchises that deliver to your door on motorbike.

The ingredients and ideas may have started with the Korean war, mid-century, but Jeong Eun-jeong’s book “The Tale of Chicken in the Republic of Korea,” reports these restaurants exploded onto the scene 20 years ago, following the devastating Asian financial crisis. Many Korean men lost their jobs and opened chicken franchises at that time,” she says.

She says that has a lot to do with why South Koreans eat so much fried chicken today — suddenly there were just so many of these restaurants. entrepreneurs continue to open chicken franchises because of the low initial investment and overhead costs, even if they have no experience in the food industry or don’t know how to cook.

Chicken Troopers, 13302 Rosecrans Ave., Norwalk, California, 562. 219.0593. Hours: Monday – Saturday. Chickentroopersla.com .