New Modern Tuscan Cuisine in Lush California Coastal Four Seasons

(Gerry Furth-Sides)  Culina Vinoteca and Chef de Cuisine Luca Moriconi’s Modern Tuscan Cuisine transform the corner of the lush Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills into the inviting, sleek Culina & Vinoteca.   As refined and engaging as he is talented, Chef de Cuisine Moriconi leads leads a family here.  Proof of this is that his mom will again arrive to cook for mother’s day this spring.

A series of intimate, hushed bar areas with low tables and booths hold court here where at one time the maze of room after room displayed mountains of different foods for Sunday brunch – seafood!  beef!  performance stations!  desserts! — that captivated diners till late afternoon, us included.  At that time the staff was friendly and there when you needed them.  This new staff is enthusiastic about the food and offers a warm, warm welcome, as happy to serve you as they are happy to be at Culina Vinoteca.

The Cocktail Program begins with a trifecta of clear spirit-based drinks and we were delighted to see the (southern) fruit shrubs in a mezcal drink among the cocktails with so manyfascinating ingredients.  Here, though, the sugar combined with unlisted spiky habanero pepper in the Pezca Mezca drink take on a whole new meaning.  

Chef Moriconi offers a separate Vinoteca Menu featuring uniquely curated seasonal shareable plates with savory dishes including  Crudo, Insalate, Cotto, Panini, and Taglieri (Tuscan meats and cheeses).  We watched Christian put a Formaggi or cheese board with four cheeses ($22 ) being put together (see below) that included gorgonzola caciocavallo, agrumato, formaggio de capra.   Star of the board is the Piave Vecchio (or Piave Stravecchio) is an Italian cow’s milk cheese named after a river by the same name. It is DOP protected and the only authentic Piave Vecchio is produced in the Dolomites area of Belluno province of Veneto.

As we were tasting a lovely prosciutto same, we were encouraged to try the HANGING OUT IN TUSCANY ($24) that included a few of the choicest morsels, all hanging on a little clothesline, because it was photogenic.

 

Wines by the glass are friendly, a very small part of a very ambitious wine program. . Vinoteca by definition is in reference to the knowledge bank and library of wines, and to complement the new modern Tuscan cuisine,  the Wine List offers an extensive collection of curated imported wines and local varietals, including . Italian Sparkling Wines and Champagne, Italian, French, and California Rosés, New World, European and French Whites, a vast selection of Italian Reds categorized by region throughout Italy, New World Reds, European Reds, and a boutique selection ofIcon Wines.

Chef Moriconi’s mission to update classics at  Culina & Vinoteca is perfecttly carried out in the Antipasti section with the exquisite  Sformatino di Bietole, featuring a Swiss chard flan, Pecorino Toscano fondue, seasonal black truffle, and quail egg.

Chef Moriconi offers an array of proteins from the land and sea in the Secondi section.   The Baccala Ripassato begins with the Christmas holiday fish classic.  Here the chef fries and braises the salted cod filets and folds it into a rustic escarole and leek stew with San Marzano, shallots, and garlic.

A regional specially not to be missed is the  Cinghiale in Umido con Polenta, braised wild boar, polenta Gialla, black olives, Piave Vecchio, and Taggiasca olives.  Here the Piave Vecchio cheese is highlighted spectacularly within a dish.  It is also part of a vegetarian dish, the Risotto Piave e Zucca made with butternut squash, Piave Vecchio Cheese, rosemary, and Villa Manodori balsamic vinegar. Below the hospitable chef adds French truffle to the Risotto Biancoroddonero ($50) with mushrooms, sottonere cheese, truffle caviar and carabineros crude.

Pastry Chef Federico Fernandez’s  Dessert  both traditional and contemporary California always include his own visual, artistic touch.  Italian Tiramisu, adds espresso to the meringue and chocolate crisp. Millefoglie, feature vanilla cream, honey gelato, and black truffle.  We can’t wait to try the  Mango Vanilla Baked Alaska and the Brown Butter Cake.  An array of Vegan Ice Cream, Sorbetti, and Gelati are also offered.

Grappa is a specialty, we were thrilled to learn.  There is even a semi-private room dedicated to it, offering off-the-menu items. The Grappa Room  accommodates parties up to twelve, complete with a table made from a 200-year-old fallen Magnolia tree and service dedicated exclusively to the room. In the evening, vintage Italian films are projected onto an adorning water wall feature, reflecting onto a 25-foot light fixture comprised of 3,000 hand-blown Czechoslovakian glass bubbles and  a floating fire fountain.

Located inside a hotel, Culina & Vinoteca’s offers diner-friend hours most of the day and evening.  Culina & Vinoteca’s Sunday Brunch Buffet from 10:00 am until 2:00 pm. For more information or to make reservations, please visit www.CulinaRestaurant.com or call Culina & Vinoteca directly at 310.860.4000.