The Inside Story of Legendary Mori Sushi
(Gerry Furth-Sides) The person who answers the phone at legendary Mori Sushi still insists you are calling “Mori”himself, and the name is very much on the raggedy but intact outside sign with the famous fish logo. The sushi served inside these days has very much the same touch but it not because Mori is there. I had a rare opportunity to dine at Mori with Australian journalist, Paul Best recently. So let’s talk about the food first. //Morisushila.com.
“Maru”explaining the dinner menu, he also wrote out for us
A bottle of sake was chosen for our summer meal at Mori Sushi
Zensai (前菜, literally meaning “before a dish Japanese for an hors d’oeuvre. Maru was so proud of the handmade tofu, which he called “freshly brewed from soybeans,” drizzled with a homemade Karasumi flakes. Karasumi, salted mullet roe, is dried in the sunlight. It may be named for the sumi (inkstick) blocks imported from China (Kara) for use in Japanese calligraphy. Karasumi is a high priced delicacy, usually served alone during sake.
Handmade tofu at Mori Sushi drizzled with homemade karasumi flakes
The breathtaking Zensai (Kaiseki) plate turns out to be a summer garden of mirrored ingredients. It contains homemade smoked fatty tuna taken; Sakura-ebi; Umaki (egg custard with gel); grilled Santa Barbara Spot Prawns in the middle; Take Sunomono; Satoimo Stick and slashed sayori.
The first plates of the omakase at Mori Sushi
Detail: Baby Peach and KinKan sweets on the Kaiseki Plate at Mori Sushi
Aka0dash: miso soup was served between courses. The broth was so clear it mirrored the light fixture above.
Aka0dash: miso soup at Mori Sushi
Sushi, succulent and freshest of the fresh, included Tai Kobujime; hokkaido scallop; raw octopus; suzuki (seabass); Aji (horse mackerel); Gindara (black cod); Renko-dai (orange snapper), sockeye salmon; Shimai0Aji (Jack Macketel); Akami (Blue fin tuna); toro (Flue fin fatty tuna, uni (sea urchin) and sardine. We were carefully instructed which of the pieces to eat with soy sauce and which to eat on their own (I rarely use soy sauce unless directed).
Dessert is a whipped homemade tofu mousse. The perfect frothy ending to a satisfying, light meal that also bookends the tofu starting the meal.
Tofu mousse dessert at Mori Sushi
A different tea replaced every vessel that was emptied during the meal. Each one was freshly brewed and chosen to pair with the course.
Morihiro “Mori” Onodera’s fanbase was intense, especially for his Omakase, which included his famous slashed sayori . He was also known for making every patron feel he/she were the main ones. Mori even invited us to watch him throw pots in the back courtyard at one time. When it was announced that he decided to sell his Michelin-star business and leave for New York in 2011, the truth was that he had health issues. Former apprentice who became a partner and now owner, Chef Masunori “Maru” Nagano, took over Mori Sushi seven years ago. Some say that Maru-san exceeds his former master, with Mori Sushi still delivering the best Sushi in the City of Angels 24.
Chef Masunori “Maru” Nagano
They did not stop him from making pottery and ceramics (he actually still makes custom plates for Providence and Melisse chef Morihiro Onodera had come out of retirement and returned to L.A. to make Sushi again at Shiki (Beverly Hills) in 2011, and currently at Inn Ann in the Japan House. For details, please see: //localfoodeater.com/dine-like-a-world-diplomat-at-japan-house-las-inn-ann/
Mori Sushi, 11500 W. Pico Blvd., Los angeles, CA 90064 (310) 479-3939. Hours: 6-10:30. //Morisushila.com.
Gerry Furth-Sides 
Barbara Hansen 
Chef-owner Alain Cohen 
Roberta Deen 
Jose Martinez 
Nivedita Basu 