Upper West’s Surprising New Ethnic Menu

(Gerry Furth-Sides) Reopening at our gorgeous rustic neighborhood favorite means pared down hours (dinner only five nights a week) and a pared down menu from Chef Nick Shipp that is SENSATIONAL!

Even with Nick’s obsession-worthy, take-away Burger Box last year, it was like “coming home” to have a dinner in the glassed-in patio in front of the open French windows with the partners and chef’s welcome. Thank you for the menu suggestions. We were ecstatic.

Just enough unexpected, California-fresh, ingredients enhanced each Mediterranean inspires dish to make each one feel like a classic: Sweet & Spicy Spare Ribs with samba-honey glass, watermelon and cilantro. Grilled Artichoke Hearts with an ethereal citrus aioli, as stunning in color as in the mellowed, tart flavor, with fennel pollen, parmigiana-reggiano and herbs. Coffee Crusted Kurobuta Pork Tenderloin with goat cheese mashed potato, a citrus semi and roasted jalapeño apple sauce proves this hearty dish is just as appealing the summer as any time of the year. And so is the Adelaida Cab (2016) from Paso Robles that just always has to be on the wine list (by the glass and bottle). Guests like me are usually affectionately labeled “prima Dona” — I get stuck on items I .

Partner Elad Benisti waited until after dinner to tell me how surprised he is that I didn’t even mention (I forgot!) my decade-old order of corn soup + burger!

Upper West Restaurant, 3321 W. Pico Blvd. (33^rd Street), Santa Monica, CA.  (310) 586-1111, www.theupperwest.com.